j.  L.  MCDONALD 


SCENES 


or 


"WONDER  AND  CURIOSITY 

CALIFOKNIA. 

ILLUSTRATED  WITH  $$&&£ flUNBKlit)  ENGRAVINGS. 

A  TOURIST'S  GUIDE 


TO   THE 


YOSEMITE  VALLEY, 

THE  Bio  TREE  GROVES— THE  NATURAL  CAVES  AND  BRIDGES— THE  QUICKSILVER  MINES  OF 

NEW  ALMADEN  AND  HENRIQUITA — MOUNT  SHASTA — THE  FARALLONE  ISLANDS,  WITH  THEIR  SEA  LIONS 

AND  BIRDS — THE  GEYSER  SPRINGS — LAKE  TAHOE,  AND  OTHER  PLACES  OF  INTEREST. 


GIVING  OUTLINE  MAP  OF  EOUTES  TO  YO-SEMITE  AND  BIG  TREE  GROVES — TABLES  OF  DISTANCES — 
KATES  OF  FARE — HOTEL  CHARGES,  AND  OTHER  DESIRABLE  INFORMATION  FOR  THE  TRAVELLER. 


BY  J.  M.  HUTCHINGS, 

// 

(OF  YO-SEMITE.) 


NEW  YORK  AND  SAN  FRANCISCO: 
A.  ROMAN   AND   COMPANY,  PUBLISHERS. 

1870. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  One  Thousand  Eight  Hundred  and  Seventy,  by 

J.  M.  HUTCHINGS, 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States,  for  the  Southern  District  of 

New  York. 


u  ., 


PREFATORY  NOTE  FROM  PUBLISHER, 


SINCE  the  completion  and  appointments  of  the  great 
Overland  Railway  have  made  travelling  to  the  Pacific 
Slope  easy,  pleasant,  speedy,  and  safe,  a  general  desire  has 
arisen  for  information  concerning  its  remarkable  scenery, 
the  cost  of  travelling,  distances,  hotel  charges,  etc. 

The  cordial  reception  this  volume  has  received  in  Cali- 
fornia, where  hitherto  it  has  only  been  known,  and  the 
often  expressed  wish  for  its  more  general  circulation,  has 
led  to  the  belief  that  a  revised  edition,  giving  the  desired 
information,  would  supply  a  present  need,  and  prove 
acceptable  to  the  public. 

The  author's  twenty  years'  experience  in  California  has 
made  him  familiar  with  its  history  and  progress;  a  long 
time  devoted  to  studying  and  sketching  its  most  interest- 
ing features,  and  an  actual  residence  of  six  years  in  the 
wonderful  Yo-Semite,  together  with  his  loving  appreciation 
of  the  beautiful,  have  very  naturally  fitted  him  to  write 
instructively  and  feelingly  upon  the  subject. 

Through  his  efforts,  moreover,  the  attention  of  the 
public  was  first  called  to  its  sublime  scenes,  and  for  years 
he  has,  in  many  ways,  been  earnestly  engaged  in  extending 
a  knowledge  of  its  glories. 

New    York,  May  2,  1870. 

980493 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

PAGH 

How  the  Calaveras  Big  Tree  Grove  was  first  discovered — Principal  Routes  to  the 
Calaveras  Grove — Alcatraces  Island — Angel  Island — Red  Rock — Straits  of 
Carquinez — City  of  Benicia — Monte  Diablo — Sailing  up  the  San  Joaquin — 
City  of  Stockton — Stockton  to  Murphy's  Camp — Road  to  the  Mammoth-Tree 
Grove— The  Mammoth-Tree  Grove— The  Great  South  Grove 9 

CHAPTER  II. 

Discovery  and  Location  of  the  Caves  of  Calaveras — The  Entrance — The  Council 
Chamber — The  Cathedral — The  Bishop's  Palace — The  Bridal  Chamber — 
Musical  Hall— The  Hotel 51 

CHAPTER   III. 

Scenery  around  the  Natural  Bridges — The  Upper  Bridge — The  Lower  Bridge.. .  .     56 

CHAPTER  IV. 

THE  TO-SEMITB  YALLEY,  and  Circumstances  that  led  to  its  Discovery — The 
Mariposa  Indian  War — Things  to  Know  before  Starting  on  the  Tour — Outline 
Map  and  Table  of  Distances  by  the  different  Routes — Travelling  Fares  and 
Time  by  the  different  Routes — Kinds  and  Amounts  of  Personal  Baggage 
desirable: — Hotel  Charges  in  San  Francisco,  Yo-Semite,  and  while  Travelling 
— See  the  Route  Agent — The  Country  between  Stockton  and  Yo-Semite — 
The  Tuolumne  South  Grove  of  Big  Trees  and  Road  through  it — Hints  How 
to  secure  Enjoyment  on  the  Trip — Descending  the  Mountain — Ride  up  the 
Yalley — Outline  Map  of  the  Yalley — The  First  Night  in  the  Yalley — What 
to  do  and  see  on  the  First  Day — Walk  to  the  Foot  of  the  Lower  Yo-Semite 
Fall — The  Second  Day:  Mirror  Lake,  the  Legend  of  Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah  and 
Tis-sa-ack,  the  Bridal  Yeil  Fall — Third  Day :  Yisit  to  the  Yernal  and  Nevada 
Falls,  Ascent  of  the  "  Cap  of  Liberty,"  the  Country  above  the  Nevada  Fall, 
the  Little  Yo-Semite  Yalley — Fourth  Day:  Yisit  to  the  Tu-lool-we-ack  or 
South  Canon  Fall,  the  South  Dome  from  the  South  Canon — Fifth  Day :  Ride 
to  Mount  Beatitude  and  Inspiration  Point — Yiew  from  thence — Sixth 
Day :  Trip  to  the  Top  of  the  Yo-Semite  Fall,  what  seen  when  there — 
Seventh  Day :  To  the  Foot  of  the  Upper  Yo-Semite,  the  Glorious  Yiew — 
Eighth  Day:  Climb  to  the  Top  of  Glacial  Point  and  Sentinel  Dome,  Promi- 
nent Peaks  visible — What  Chas.  Loring  Brace  says  about  Yo-Semite,  also 
an  English  Gentleman — Comparison  between  Yo-Semite  and  different  Scenes 
in  Switzerland — Attempt  to  Climb  the  South  Dome — Summary  of  Yo-Semite, 
and  How  the  Name  is  Pronounced — Table  of  Altitudes  at  Yo-Semite, 
including  all  the  Principal  Falls  and  Mountain  Points — Departure  from  it. . .  61 


CONTENTS.  5 

CHAPTER  V. 

PAGE 

The  Discovery  of  the  Mariposa  and  Frezno  Groves  of  Mammoth  Trees — The 
Mariposa  Grove — The  South  Grove — Visit  to  the  Frezno  Grove — The  Ten 
Different  Groves  of  Big  Trees  in  California ]72 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Route  to  New  Almaden — San  Jose — An  Old  Saw — The  Discovery  and  Ownership 
of  the  New  Almaden  Mine — Process  of  Extracting  Quicksilver — The  Road 
to  the  Mine — Process  of  Working  the  Mine — The  Henriquita  Quicksilver 
Mine — Dedicatory  Ceremony  of  Blessing  the  Mine 184 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Mount  Shasta — Ascent  of  Mount  Shasta,  Alone 203 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Sail  through  the  Golden  Gate — Crossing  the  Bar — Don't-care-ishness — Visits 
from  the  Birds — Arrival  at  the  Islands — The  Sea  Lions — The  Hair  Seal — 
Birds  and  their  Eggs — Wildness  of  the  Scenes — The  North  Farallones 210 

CHAPTER    IX. 

In  and  around  San  Francisco — Ride  to  the  Cliff  House — The  Sea  Lions — The 
Beach — The  Broad  Pacific — The  Old  Mission  Dolores — Woodward's  Gar- 
dens— Views  from  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco — The  Presidio — Sights  from 
Telegraph  Hill — Excursion  to  Tamed  Pais 230 

CHAPTER   X. 

The  California  Geysers — Scenes  on  the  Way — Foss,  the  Driver — The  Hotel — Gey- 
ser Canon,  its  Unearthly  Appearance,  Proximity  to  a  Warm  Place,  its  Nu- 
merous Kinds  of  Springs — Strange  Sounds — Distances,  and  Cost 245 

CHAPTER   XL 

The  Riffle-Box  Waterfall 262 

CHAPTER   XII. 

Lake  Tahoe 264 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Alabaster  Cave — Discovery  of  the  Cave — Scenery  on  the  Sacramento  River — Sal- 
mon Fishing — The  Hog's  Back — Steamboat  Slough — A  Ride  on  the  Sacra- 
mento Valley  Railroad — Folsom — The  Stage  Ride  to  the  Cave — The  Beau- 
tiful Formations — The  Wonderful  "Dungeon  of  Enchantment, " and  "  Crystal 
Chapel" 268 

Errata.  .  .  292 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


No.  PAGE 

1.  Section  of  the  Mammoth  Tree  at  the  Calaveras  Grove 9 

2.  River  Steamboats  leaving  the  Broadway  Wharf,  San  Francisco 15 

3.  Alcatraces  Island 16 

4.  Red  Rock; 20 

5.  The  Two  Sisters ; 21 

6.  Straits  of  Carquinez 21 

7.  City  of  Benicia 23 

8.  Monte  Diablo 26 

9.  Night  Scene  on  the  San  Joaquin  River 31 

10.  The  City  of  Stockton • 33 

11.  A  Prairie  Schooner » 35 

12.  Hotel  at  Calaveras  Grove  of  Big  Trees 41 

13.  Cotillion  Party  on  the  Stump  of  the  Mammoth  Tree 42 

14.  "Workmen  Felling  the  Mammoth  Tree 43 

15.  Bowling  Alley  on  the  Trunk  of  Mammoth  Tree 44 

16.  The  Father  of  the  Forest 46 

1 7.  Cone  and  Foliage  of  the  Mammoth  Trees 47 

18.  The  Three  Graces 49 

19.  Entrance  to  the  Calaveras  Cave 52 

20.  The  Bridal  Chamber  in  the  Calaveras  Cave 54 

2 1.  Hotel  at  the  Calaveras  Cave. 55 

22*  Upper  Side  of  Upper  Natural  Bridge  on  Cayote  Creek 56 

23.  Lower  Side  of  Upper  Natural  Bridge 58 

24.  Upper  Side  of  Lower  Natural  Bridge 09 

25.  Distant  Yiew  of  the  Yo-Semite  Waterfall. 61 

26.  Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah 71 

27.  Outline  Map  of  Routes  to  Yo-Semite  and  Big  Trees 80 

28.  Ho  1  for  Yo-Semite 103 

29.  Descending  the  Mountain  to  Yo-Semite 104 

30.  River  Scene  at  the  Foot  of  the  Trail 106 


LIST  OP  ILLUSTRATIONS.  7 

No.  PAGE 

31.  Pom-pom-pa-sus ;  or,  The  Three  Brothers ' 108 

32.  Distant  View  of  Pohono  ;  or,  The  Bridal  Veil  Fall 109 

33.  The  Ferry 110 

34.  Outline  Map  of  Yo-Semite  Valley  and  Surroundings Ill 

35.  Ford  of  Yo-Semite  Creek 114 

36.  Near  View  of  the  Yo-Semite  Fall 115 

37.  Lake  Ah-wi-yah,  or  Mirror  Lake 119 

38.  The  Sentinel 124 

39.  Near  View  of  the  Pohono.  or  Bridal  Veil  Fall 127 

40.  River  Scene  near  Old  Bridge 129 

41.  The  Pi-wy-ack,  or  Vernal  Fall 131 

42.  The  Ladders 132 

43.  Merced  River  rushing  through  the  G-orge  at  Diamond  Flume 133 

44.  The  Yo-wi-ye,  or  Nevada  Fall '. 134 

45.  The  South  Dome  as  seen  from  the  South  Canon 139 

46.  The  Tu-lool-we-ack,  or -South  Canon  Fall 140 

47.  General  View  of  the  Yo-Semite  Valley 144 

48.  Indian  Canon .' 146 

49.  The  North  and  South  Domes  from  the  Valley 152 

50.  Taking  the  Indian  Trail  up  the  Mountain 164 

51.  Ascending  the  Lower  Dome. .  • 167 

52.  Looking  down  the  Valley  toward  Cathedral  Rocks 170 

53.  Scene  in  the  Frezno  Grove  of  Mammoth  Trees 172 

54.  The  Twins  in  the  Mariposa  Grove  of  Mammoth  Trees 175 

55.  Satan's  Spear 176 

56.  The  Grizzled  Giant 181 

57.  Metal  Yard  and  Entrance  to  the  New  Almaden  Mine 184 

58.  San  Jose,  Santa  Clara  County 186 

59.  General  View  of  the  Quicksilver  "Works  at  New  Almaden 188 

60.  Section  of  Quicksilver  Smelting  Furnace 189 

61.  Mexicans  weighing  Quicksilver 190 

62.  The  Shrine  of  Senora  de  Guadalupe 192 

63.  Miners  taking  out  Quicksilver  Ore 194 

64.  Tenateros  carrying  the  Ore  from  the  Mine. 1 95 

65.  The  Henriquita  Quicksilver  Mine  on  the  Morning  of  Dedication 201 

66.  Mount  Shasta 203 

67.  The  South  Farallone  Islands,  from  Big  Rookery ,.  210 


8  LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

No.  PAGE 

68.  Clipper  Ship  crossing  the  Bar  at  the  Entrance  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco. .  212 

69.  Enchanted  with  the  delightful  Prospect  off  the  Bar 214 

70.  South-east  View  of  the  Farallone  Islands 215 

71.  Man  in  a  Tight  Place 217 

72.  Sea  Lions  and  their  Toung. 218 

73.  The  Hair  Seal  of  the  Pacific 219 

74.  The  Murre,  or  Foolish  Guillemot .' 222 

75.  Murre's  Egg,  natural  size 223 

76.  The  Tufted  Puffin 224 

77.  Yiew  from  West  End  of  Farallone  Islands 225 

78.  View  from  the  North  Landing  of  Farallone  Islands 227 

79.  South  View  of  Fort  Point  and  the  Golden  Gate 230 

80.  The  Drive  along  the  Beach 234 

81.  The  Ocean  House 235 

82.  The  Old  Mission  Church  and  Out-buildings '. 236 

83.  General  View  of  the  Mission  Dolores 238 

84.  San  Francisco  Industrial  School 240 

85.  The  Presidio 242 

86.  The  Witches'  Cauldron  at  the  Geyser  Springs 245 

87.  The  Steamboat  "  Rambler  "  navigating  Petaluma  Creek 248 

88.  Ray's  Ranch,  and  the  Russian  River  Valley 251 

89.  The  Geyser  Springs  Hotel 255 

90.  Geyser  Canon 256 

91.  Proserpine's  Grotto ...  257 

92.  View  of  Clear  Lake,  from  the  Bridge  near  the  Geysers 260 

93.  The  Riffle-Box  Waterfall. 262 

94.  Lake  Tahoe 264 

95.  The  Pulpit  in  Alabaster  Cave. 268 

96.  Lower  Junction  of  the  Main  Sacramento  and  Steamboat  Slough 273 

97.  Night  Scene  on  the  Sacramento  River 274 

98.  Salmon  Fishing — Paying  out  the  Seine 275 

99.  Salmon  Fishing — Hauling  in  the  Seine 276 

100.  Group  of  Salmon  on  the  Banks  of  the  Sacramento 277 

101.  Upper  Junction  of  the  main  Sacramento  and  Steamboat  Slough 280 

102.  Levee  Scene  at  Sacramento  City 282 

103.  The  Alabaster  Lime-Kiln  by  Moonlight 286 

104.  The  Crystal  Chapel  in  the  Alabaster  Cave , . . 291 


SCENES  OF  WONDER  AND  CURIOSITY 


CALIFORNIA. 


THE   MAMMOTH   TREES    OF   CALAVERAS. 


SECTION  OF  MAMMOTH  TREE. 
From  PhotograpJi  by  T.  Houseworth  &  Co. 


10  SCENES    LN    CALIFORNIA. 


;;;:  CHAPTEK  i. 

^ .  ^          "  God  of  the  forest's  solemn  shade ! 
i  b\  „  The  grandeur  of  the  lonely  tree, 

That  wrestles  singly  with  the  gale, 
Lifts  up  admiring  eyes  to  Thee , 
•-  l\  But  more  majestic  far  they  stand, 

t«     i'  When,  side  by  side  their  ranks  they  form 

*  *  •  *•  To  wave  on  high  their  plumes  of  green, 

And  fight  their  battles  with  the  storm." 

PEABODY. 

IT  is  much  to  be  questioned  if  the  discovery  of  any  wonder,  in 
any  part  of  the  world,  has  ever  elicited  as  much  general  interest, 
or  created  so  strong  a  tax  upon  the  credulity  of  mankind,  as  the 
discovery  of  the  mammoth  trees  of  California.  Indeed,  those  who 
first  mentioned  the  fact  of  their  existence,  whether  by  word  of 
mouth  or  by  letter,  were  looked  upon  as  near,  very  near,  relatives 
of  Baron  Munchausen,  Captain  -Gulliver,  or  the  celebrated  Don 
Quixote.  The  statement  had  many  times  to  be  repeated,  and 
well  corroborated,  before  it  could  be  received  as  true ;  and  there 
are  many  persons  who,  to  this  very  day,  look  upon  it  as  as  a  some- 
what doubtful  "  California  story ;"  such,  we  never  expect  to  con- 
vince of  the  realities  we  are  about  to  illustrate  and  describe,  al- 
though we  do  so  from  our  own  personal  knowledge  and  observa- 
tion. 

HOW   THE    CALAVERAS    GROVE   WAS    FIRST   DISCOVERED. 

In  the  spring  of  1852,  Mr.  A.  T.  Dowd,  a  hunter,  was  employed 
by  the  Union  Water  Company,  of  Murphy's  Camp,  Calaveras 
county,  to  supply  the  workmen  engaged  in  the  construction  of 
their  canal,  with  fresh  meat,  from  the  large  quantities  of  game 
running  wild  on  the  upper  portion  of  their  works.  Having 
wounded  a  bear,  and  while  industriously  following  in  pursuit,  lie 


THE   MAMMOTH   TREES   OF   CALAVERAS.  11 

suddenly  came  upon  one  of  those  immense  trees,  that  have  since 
become  so  justly  celebrated  throughout  the  civilized  world.  All 
thoughts  of  hunting  were  absorbed  and  lost  in  the  wonder  and' 
surprise  inspired  by  the  scene.  "  Surely,"  he  mused,"  this  must 
be  some  curiously  delusive  dream !"  but  the  great  realities  stand- 
ing there  before  him,  were  convincing  proof,  beyond  a  doubt, 
that  they  were  no  mere  fanciful  creations  of  his  imagination. 

When  he  returned  to  camp,  and  there  related  the  wonders  he 
had  seen,  his  companions  laughed  at  him  and  doubted  his  vera- 
city, which  previously  they  had  considered  to  be  very  reliable. 
He  affirmed  his  statement  to  be  true,  but  they  still  thought  it 
"  too  much  of  a  story"  to  believe — thinking  that  he  was  trying  to 
perpetrate  upon  them  some  first  of  April  joke. 

For  a  day  or  two  he  allowed  the  matter  to  rest — submitting, 
with  chuckling  satisfaction,  to  the  occasional  jocular  allusions  to 
"  his  big  tree  yarn,"  and  continued  his  hunting  as  formerly.  On 
the  Sunday  morning  following,  he  went  out  early  as  usual,  and 
returned  in  haste,  evidently  excited  by  some  event.  "  Boys," 
he  exclaimed,  "  I  have  killed  the  largest  grizzly  bear  that  I  ever 
saw  in  my  life.  While  I  am  getting  a  little  something  to  eat, 
you  make  preparations  to  bring  him  in.  All  had  better  go  that 
can  possibly  be  spared,  as  their  assistance  will  certainly  be 
needed." 

As  the  big  tree  story  was  now  almost  forgotten,  or  by  common 
consent  laid  aside  as  a  subject  of  conversation  ;  and,  moreover,  as 
Sunday  was  a  leisure  day — and  one  that  generally  hangs  the 
heaviest  of  the  seven  on  those  who  are  shut  out  from  social  in- 
tercourse with  friends,  as  many,  many  Californians  unfortunately 
are — the  tidings  were  gladly  welcomed ;  especially  as  the  propo- 
sition was  suggestive  of  a  day's  excitement. 

Nothing  loath,  they  were  soon  ready  for  the  start.  The  camp 
was  almost  deserted.  On,  on  they  hurried,  with  Dowd  as  their 
guide,  through  thickets  and  pine  groves ;  crossing  ridges  and 
canons,  flats  and  ravines;  each  relating  in  turn  the  adventures 
experienced,  or  heard  of  from  companions,  with  grizzly  bears  and 
other  formidable  tenants  of  the  forests  and  wilds  of  the  moun- 


12  SCENES   IN   CALIFORNIA. 

tains ;  until  their  leader  came  to  a  dead  halt  at  the  foot  of  the 
tree  he  had  seen,  and  to  them  had  related  the  size.  Pointing  to 
the  immense  trunk  and  lofty  top,  he  cried  out,  "  Boys,  do  you  now 
believe  my  big  tree  story  ?  That  is  the  large  grizzly  I  wanted 
you  to  see.  Do  you  still  think  it  a  yarn?" 

Thus  convinced,  their  doubts  were  changed  to  amazement,  and 
their  conversation  from  bears  to  trees ;  afterward  confessing  that, 
although  they  had  been  caught  by  a  ruse  of  their  leader,  they 
were  abundantly  rewarded  by  the  gratifying  sight  they  had 
witnessed ;  and  as  other  trees  were  found  equally  as  large,  they 
became  willing  witnesses,  not  only  to  the  entire  truthfulness  of 
Mr.  Dowd's  account,  but  also  to  the  fact,  that,  like  the  confession 
of  a  certain  Persian  queen  concerning  the  wisdom  of  Solomon, 
"  the  half  had  not  been  told." 

Mr.  Lewis,  one  of  the  party  above  alluded  to,  after  seeing  these 
gigantic  forest  patriarchs,  conceived  the  idea  of  removing  the 
bark  from  one  of  the  trees,  and  of  taking  it  to  the  Atlantic  states 
for  exhibition,  and  invited  Dowd  to  join  him  in  the  enterprise. 
This  was  declined ;  but,  while  Mr.  Lewis  was  engaged  in  obtain- 
ing a  suitable  partner,  some  one  from  Murphy's  Camp  to  whom 
he  had  confided  his  intentions  and  made  known  his  plans,  took  up 
a  posse  of  men  early  the  next  morning  to  the  spot  described  by 
Mr.  Lewis,  and,  after  locating  a  quarter  section  of  land,  imme- 
diately commenced  the  removal  of  the  bark,  after  attempting  to 
dissuade  Lewis  from  the  undertaking.*  This  underhanded  pro- 
ceeding induced  Lewis  to  visit  the  large  tree  at  Santa  Cruz,  dis- 
covered by  Fremont,  for  the  purpose  of  competing,  if  possible, 
with  his  quondam  friend  /  but  finding  that  tree,  although  large, 
only  nineteen  feet  in  diameter  and  286  feet  in  height,  while  that 
in  Calaveras  county  was  thirty  feet  in  diameter  and  302  feet  in 
height,  he  then  turned  his  steps  to  some  trees  reputed  to  be  the 
greatest  in  magnitude  in  the  state,  growing  near  Trinidad,  KLamath 

*  In  the  winter  of  1854,  we  met  Mr.  Lewis  in  Yreka,  and  from  his  own  lips  received 
this  account;  and  we  think  it  no  more  than  simple  justice  to  him  here  to  make  a 
record  of  the  fact,  that  such  an  unfair  and  ungentlemanly  violation  of  confidence  may 
be  both  known  and  censured,  as  it  well  deserves  to  be. 


THE   MAMMOTH   TREES   OF   CALAVERAS.  13 

county ;  but  the  largest  of  these  he  found  only  to  measure  about 
twenty-four  feet  in  diameter,  and  two  hundred  and  seventy-nine 
feet  in  height ;  consequently,  much  discouraged,  and  after  spend- 
ing about  five  hundred  dollars  and  several  weeks'  time,  he  even- 
tually abandoned  his  undertaking. 

But  a  short  season  was  allowed  to  elapse  after  the  discovery 
of  this  remarkable  grove,  before  the  trumpet-tongued  press  pro- 
claimed the  wonder  to  all  sections  of  the  state,  and  to  all  parts 
of  the  world ;  and  the  lovers  of  the  marvellous  began  first  to 
doubt,  then  to  believe,  and  afterward  to  flock  from  the  various 
districts  of  California,  that  they  might  see,  with  their  own  eyes, 
the  objects  of  which  they  had  heard  so  much. 

'No  pilgrims  to  Mohammed's  tomb  at  Mecca,  or  to  the  reputed 
vestment  of  our  Saviour  at  Treves,  or  to  the  Juggernaut  of  Hin- 
dostan,  ever  manifested  more  interest  in  the  superstitious  objects 
of  their  veneration,  than  the  intelligent  and  devout  worshippers 
of  the  wonderful  in  nature  and  science,  of  our  own  country,  in 
their  visit  to  the  Mammoth-Tree  Grove  of  Calaveras  county,  high 
up  in  the  Sierras. 

Murphy's  Camp,  then  known  as  an  obscure  though  excellent 
mining  district,  was  lifted  into  notoriety  by  its  proximity  to,  and 
as  the  starting-point  for,  the  Big-Tree  Grove,  and  consequently 
was  the  centre  of  considerable  attraction  to  visitors. 

PRINCIPAL   ROUTES   TO   THE   CALAVERAS    GROVE. 

As  very  many  persons  will  doubtless  wish  to  visit  these  re- 
markable places,  and  as  we  cannot  in  this  brief  work  describe  all 
the  various  routes  to  these  great  natural  marvels,  from  every  vil- 
lage, town,  and  city  in  the  state — for  they  are  almost  as  numerous 
and  diversified  as  the  different  roads  that  Christians  seem  to 
take  to  their  expected  heaven,  and  the  multitudinous  creeds  about 
the  way  and  manner  of  getting  there — we  shall  content  ourselves 
by  giving  the  principal  ones ;  and,  after  having  recited  the  follow- 
ing quaint  and  unanswerable  argument  of  a  celebrated  divine  to 
the  querulous  and  uncharitably  disposed  members  of  his  flock,  we 
shall,  with  the  reader's  kind  permission,  proceed  on  our  journey. 


14  SCENES    IN   CALIFORNIA. 

"  There  was  a  Christian  brother — a  Presbyterian — who  walkecj 
up  to  the  gate  of  the  New  Jerusalem,  and  knocked  for  admittance, 
when  an  angel  who  was  in  charge,  looked  down  from  above  and 
inquired  what  he  wanted.  ( To  come  in,'  was  the  answer.  '  Who 
and  what  are  you  ?'  i  A.  Presbyterian.'  '  Sit  on  that  seat  there/ 
This  was  on  the  outside  of  the  gate ;  and  the  good  man  feared 
that  he  had  been  refused  admittance.  Presently  arrived  an 
Episcopalian,  then  a  Baptist,  then  a  Methodist,  and  so  on,  until  a 
representative  of  every  Christian  sect  had  made  his  appearance ; 
and  were,  alike  ordered  to  take  a  seat  outside.  Before  they  had 
long  been  there,"  continued  the  good  man,  "  a  loud  anthem  broke 
forth,  rolling  and  swelling  upon  the  air,  from  the  choir  within ; 
when  those  outside  immediately  joined  in  the  chorus.  '  Oh !' 
said  the  angel,  as  he  opened  wide  the  gate,  '  I  did  not  know  you 
by  your  names,  but  you  have  all  learned  one  song — come  in! 
come  in  !  The  name  you  bear,  or  the  way  by  which  you  came, 
is  of  little  consequence  compared  with  your  being  here  at  all.' 
As  you,  my  brethren,"  the  good  man  went  on — "  as  you  expect 
to  live  peaceably  and  lovingly  together  in  heaven,  you  had  better 
begin  to  practice  it  on  earth.  I  have  done." 

As  this  allegorical  advice  needs  no  words  of  application  either 
to  the  traveller  or  the  Christian,  in  the  hope  that  the  latter  will 
take  the  admonition  of  Captain  Cuttle,  "  and  make  a  note  on't," 
and  an  apology  to  the  reader  for  this  digression,  we  will  enter  at 
once  upon  our  pleasing  task. 

Those  who  start  from  San  Francisco,  for  the  Yo-Semite  Valley 
or  the  Mammoth-Tree  Groves,  should  first  proceed  to  Stockton. 
This  can  be  done  by  two  routes :  one  via  the  Western  Pacific 
railroad,  and  the  other  by  steamboat.  If  the  former,  the  distance 
is  ninety  miles,  time  four  hours,  ten  minutes,  and  the  starting  point 
is  the  Alameda  Ferry,  at  eight  o'clock,  A.M.,  and  four  o'clock,  P.M. 
If  the  latter,  you  repair  to  the  Broadway  wharf  a  little  before  four 
o'clock,  P.M.,  and  the  boat  will  arrive  in  Stockton  in  time  next 
morning  for  the  six  o'clock  stage.  This  having  been  the  route  most 
generally  traveled,  we  shall  confine  our  attention  mainly  to  it. 

There  probably  is  not  a  more  exciting  and  bustling  scene  of 


THE   MAMMOTH    TUBES    OF   CALAVEKAS. 


15 


STEAMBOATS  LEAVING  THE  WHARF — THE  ANTELOPE  FOR  SACRAMENTO,  AND  THE  BRAGDON 

FOR  STOCKTON. 


business  activity  in  any  part  of  the  world,  than  can  be  witnessed 
on  almost  any  day,  Sunday  excepted,  at  Broadway  street  wharf, 
San  Francisco,  at  a  few  minutes  before  four  o'clock  P.M.  Men 
and  women  are  hurrying  to  and  fro;  drays,  carriages,  express- 
wagons,  and  horsemen,  dash  past  you  with  as  much  rapidity  and 
earnestness  as  though  they  were  the  bearers  of  a  reprieve  to  some 
condemned  criminal,  whose  last  moment  of  life  had  nearly  ex- 
pired, and,  by  its  speedy  delivery,  thought  they  could  save  him 
from  the  scaffold.  Indeed,  one  would  suppose,  by  the  apparent 
recklessness  of  manner  in  riding  and  driving  through  the  crowd, 
that  numerous  limbs  would  be  broken,  and  carriages  made  into 
pieces  as  small  as  mince-meat ;  but  yet,  to  your  surprise,  nothing 
of  the  kind  occurs,  for,  on  arriving  at  the  smallest  real  obstacle  to 


16 


SCENES   IN   CALIFORNIA. 


their  progress,  animals  are  suddenly  reined  in,  with  a  promptness 
that  astonishes  you. 

On  these  occasions,  too,  there  is  almost  sure  to  be  one  or  more 
intentional  passengers  that  arrive  just  too  late  to  get  aboard,  and 
who,  in  their  excitement,  often  throw  an  overcoat  or  valise  on 
the  boat,  or  overboard,  but  neglect  to  embrace  the  only  opportune 
moment  to  get  on  board  themselves,  and  are  consequently  left 
behind,  as  these  boats  are  always  punctual  to  their  time  of  starting. 

With  the  reader's  consent,  as  he  may  be  a  stranger  to  the  vari- 
ous scenes  of  our  beautiful  California,  we  will  bear  him  company, 
and  explain  some  of  the  objects  we  may  see.  As  it  is  always  cool 
in  San  Francisco  on  a  summer  afternoon,  we  would  invite  him  to 
please  put  on  his  overcoat  or  cloak,  and  let  us  take  a  cosy  seat 
together  011  deck ;  and,  while  the  black  volumes  of  smoke  are 
rolling  from  the  tops  of  the  funnels,  and  our  boat  is  shooting  past 
this  wharf,  and  that  vessel  now  lying  at  anchor  in  the  bay,  or, 
while  numerous  nervous  people  are  troubled  about  their  baggage, 
asking  the  porter  all  sorts  of  questions,  let  us  have  a  quiet  chat 
upon  the  sights  we  may  witness  on  our  trip. 

The  first  object  of  interest  that  we  find  after  leaving  the  wharves 
of  the  city  behind,  is 

ALCATRACES,  OR   PELICAN    ISLAND. 


ALCATRACES  ISLAND. 


This,  we  see,  is  just  opposite  the  Golden  Gate,  atad  about  half 
way  between  San  Francisco  and  Angel  Island.     It  commands  the 


THE   MAMMOTH   TREES    OF    CALAVERAS.  17 

entrance  to  the  great  bay  of  San  Francisco,  and  is  but  three  and  a 
half  miles  from  Fort  Point. 

This  island  is  one  hundred  and  forty  feet  in  height  above  low 
tide,  four  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  width,  and  sixteen  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  in  length  ;  somewhat  irregular  in  shape,  and  forti- 
fied on  all  sides.  The  large  building  on  its  summit,  about  the 
centre  or  crest  of  the  island,  is  a  defensive  barracks  or  citadel, 
three  stories  high,  and  in  time  of  peace  will  accommodate  about 
two  hundred  men,  and,  in  time  of  war,  at  least  three  times  that 
number.  It  is  not  only  a  shelter  for  the  soldiers,  and  will  with- 
stand a  respectable  cannonade,  but  from  its  top  a  murderous  fire 
could  be  poured  upon  its  assailants  at  all  parts  of  the  island,  and 
from  whence  every  point  of  it  is  visible.  There  is  a  belt  of  forti- 
fications encircling  the  island,  consisting  of  a  series  of  Barbette 
batteries,  mounting,  altogether,  about  ninety-four  guns — twenty- 
four,  forty-two,  sixty-eight,  and  one  hundred  and  thirty-two 
pounders. 

The  first  building  that  you  notice,  after  landing  at  the  wharf,  is 
a  massive  brick  and  stone  guard-house,  shot  and  shell  proof,  well 
protected  by  a  heavy  gate  and  drawbridge,  and  having  three  em- 
brasures for  twenty-four  pound  howitzers,  that  command  the 
approach  from  the  wharf.  The  top  of  this,  like  the  barracks,  is 
flat,  for  the  use  and  protection  of  riflemen.  Other  guard-houses, 
of  similar  construction,  are  built  at  different  points,  between  which 
there  are  long  lines  of  parapets  sufficiently  high  to  preclude  the 
possibility  of  an  escalade ;  and  back  of  which  are  circular  plat- 
forms for  mounting  guns  of  the  heaviest  calibre,  some  of  which 
weigh  from  nine  to  ten  .thousand  pounds.  In  addition  to  these, 
there  are  three  bomb-proof  magazines,  each  of  which  will  hold 
ten  thousand  pounds  of  powder.  On  the  south-eastern  side  of  the 
island  is  a  large  furnace  for  the  purpose  of  heating  cannon  balls, 
and  other  similar  contrivances  are  in  course  of  construction. 

Unfortunately, there  is  no  natural  supply  of  water  on  the  island, 
so  that  all  of  that  element  which  is  used  there  is  taken  from 
Saucelito.  In  the  basement  of  the  barracks  is  a  cistern,  capa- 
ble of  holding  fifty  thousand  gallons  of  water,  a  portion  of 
2 


18  SCENES   IN   CALIFORNIA. 

which  can  be  supplied  from  the  roof  of  that  building  in  the  rainy 
season. 

Appropriations  have  been  made  for  the  fortification  of  this 
island,  to  the  amount  of  eight  hundred  and  ninety-six  thousand 
dollars;  and  about  one  hundred  thousand  dollars  more  will  com- 
plete them.  From  forty  to  two  hundred  men  have  been  employed 
upon  these  works  since  their  commencement  in  1853. 

At  the  south-eastern  end  of  the  island  is  a  fog-bell,  of  about  the 
same  weight  as  that  at  Fort  Point,  which  is  regulated  to  strike  by 
machinery  once  in  about  every  fifteen  seconds. 

The  whole  of  the  works  on  this  .island  are  under  the  skilful 
superintendence  of  Lieutenant  McPherson,  who  very  kindly  ex- 
plained to  us  the  strength  and  purposes  of  the  different  fortifica- 
tions made. 

The  lighthouse,  at  the  south  of  the  barracks, contains  a  Fresnel 
lantern  of  the  third  order,  and  which  can  be  seen,  on  a  clear 
night,  some  twelve  miles  outside  the  heads,  and  is  of  great  service 
in  suggesting  the  course  of  a  vessel  when  entering  the  bay. 

Yet,  as  we  are  sailing  on  at  considerable  speed  across  the 
entrance  to  the  bay,  toward  Angel  Island,  we  must  not  linger 
here,  even  in  imagination  ;  especially  as  we  can  now  look  out 
through  the  far-famed  Golden  Gate;  the  golden-hinged  hope  of 
many,  who,  with  lingering  eyes,  have  longed  to  look  upon  it,  and 
to  enter  through  its  charmed  portals  to  this  land  of  gold.  How 
many,  too,  have  longed  and  hoped,  for  years,  to  pass  it  once 
again,  on  their  way  out  to  the  endeared  and  loving  hearts  that 
wait  to  welcome  them,  at  that  dear  spot  they  still  call  "Homef 
God  bless  them ! 

Now  the  vessel  is  in  full  sail,  and  steamships  that  are  entering 
the  heads,  as  well  as  those  within  that  are  tacking,  now  on  this 
stretch,  and  now  on  that,  to  make  way  out  against  the  strong 
north-west  breeze  that  blows  in  at  the  Golden  Gate  for  five-eighths 
of  the  year,  are  fast  being  lost  to  sight,  and  we  are  just  abreast  of 

ANGEL   ISLAND. 

This  island,  but  five  miles  from  the  city  of  San  Francisco,  was 


THE    "MAMMOTH    TKEES    OF    CALAVERAS.  19 

granted  by  Governor  Alvarado  to  Antonio  M.  Asio,  by  order  of 
the  government  of  Mexico,  in  1837  ;  and  by  him  sold  to  its  present 
owners  in  1853.  As  it  contains  some  eight  hundred  acres  of  ex- 
cellent land,  it  is  by  far  the  largest  and  most  valuable  of  any  in 
the  bay  of  San  Francisco,  and  the  green  wild  oats  that  grow  to  its 
very  summit,  in  early  spring,  give  excellent  pasturage  to  stock  of 
all  kinds;  while  the  natural  springs,  at  different  points,  afford 
abundance  of  water  at  all  seasons.  At  the  present  time  there  are 
about  five  hundred  sheep  roaming  over  its  fertile  hills.  A  large 
portion  of  the  land  is  susceptible  of  cultivation,  for  grain  and 
vegetables. 

From  the  inexhaustible  quarries  of  hard,  blue,  and  brown 
sandstone  that  here  abound,  have  been  taken  nearly  all  of  the 
stone  used  in  the  foundations  of  the  numerous  buildings  in  San 
Francisco.  The  extensive  fortifications  at  Alcatraces  Island,  Fort 
Point,  and  other  places,  have  been  faced  with  it ;  and  the  exten- 
sive government  works  at  Mare  Island  have  been  principally 
built  with  stone  from  these  quarries ;  yet  many  thousands  of  tons 
will  be  required  from  the  same  source,  before  the  fortifications  and 
other  government  works  are  completed.  Clay  is  also  found  in 
abundance,  and  of  an  excellent  quality  for  making  bricks. 

In  1856  Angel  Island  was  surveyed  by  United  States  Engineers, 
for  the  purpose  of  locating  sites  for  two  twenty-four  gun  batteries, 
which  are  in  the  line  of  fortifications  required,  before  our  magnifi- 
cent harbor  may  be  considered  as  fortified.  The  most  important 
of  these  batteries  will  be  on  the  north-west  point  of  the  island,  and 
will  command  Racqpon  Straits ;  and,  until  this  is  built,  our  navy 
yard  at  Mare  Island,  and  even  the  city  of  San  Francisco  itself, 
cannot  be  considered  safe,  inasmuch  as,  through  these  straits,  ships 
of  war  could  easily  enter;  if,  by  means  of  the  heavy  fog  that  so 
frequently  hangs  over  the  entrance  to  the  bay,  or  other  cause, 
they  once  passed  Fort  Point  in  safety.  But  here  we  are  just 
opposite 

BED    KOCK. 

This  singular  looking  island  was  formerly  called  Treasure,  or 
Golden  Rock,  in  old  charts,  from  a  traditionary  report  being  cir- 


20  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


VIEW  OP  RED  (OR  TREASURE)  ROCK. 

dilated  of  some  large  treasure  having  been  once  carried  there,  by 
early  Spanish  navigators.  In  charts  of  recent  date,  however,  it  is 
sometimes  called  Molate  Island,  but  is  now  more  generally  known 
as  Red  Rock,  from  its  general  color. 

There  are  several  strata  of  rock,  of  different  colors — if  rock  it 
can  be  called — one  of  which  is  very  fine,  and  resembles  an  article 
sometimes  found  upon  a  lady's  toilet-table — of  course  in  earlier 
days — known  as  rouge-powder.  Besides  this  there  are  several 
strata  of  a  species  of  clay  or  colored  pigment,  of  from  four  to 
twelve  inches  in  thickness,  and  of  various  colors.  Upon  the  beach 
numerous  small  red  pebbles,  very  much  resembling  cornelian,  are 
found.  There  can  be  but  little  wonder  it  should  be  called  "  Red 
Rock,"  by  plain,  matter-of-fact  people  like  ourselves.  It  is  cov- 
ered with  wild  oats  to  its  summit,  on  which  is  planted  a  flag-staff 
and  cannon.  Several  years  ago  its  locater  and  owner,  Mr. 
Selim  E.  Woodworth,  took  about  half  a  dozen  tame  rabbits  over  to 
it,  from  San  Francisco,  and  now  there  are  several  hundred. 

As  Mr.  Woodworth,  before  becoming  a  benedict,  made  this  his 
place  of  residence,  he  partially  graded  its  apparently  inaccessible 
sides ;  and  at  different  points  planted  several  ornamental  trees. 
A  small  bachelor's  cabin  stands  near  the  water's  edge,  and  as  this 
affords  the  means  of  cooking  fish  and  sundry  other  dishes,  its 
owner,  and  a  small  party  of  friends,  pay  it  an  occasional  visit  for 
fishing  and  general  recreation.  Several  sheep  roam  about  on  the 
island ;  and,  as  they  seldom  drink  water,  they  do  not  feel  the  loss 
of  that  which  nature  has  here  failed  to  supply. 

But  on,  on,  we  sail,  and  pass  Maria  Island  and  the  Two  Sisters. 


THE   MAMMOTH   TREES   OF   CALAVERAS. 


VIEW   OP  THE  TWO  SISTERS. 


After  leaving  these  behind,  and  shooting  by  Point  San  Pablo, 
we  enter  the  large  bay  of  that  name  ;  and  are  charmed  with  the 
fine  table  and  grazing  lands  on  our  right,  at  the  foot  of  the 
Contra  Costa  range  of  hills. 


STRAITS   OF   CARQUETEZ. 


VIEW   OF  THE   STKA1TS  OP  CABQUDfEZ. 

Just  before  entering  the  Straits  of  Carqninez,  that  connects  the 

bays  of  San  Pablo  and  Suisnn,  on  onr  left,  we  obtain  a  glimpse 

-he  government  works  at  Mare  Island  and  the  town  of  Yalkjo; 


22  SCENES    IN     CALIFORNIA. 

but  as  we  shall  probably  have  something  to  say  about  these  points 
at  some  future  time,  we  will  now  take  a  look  at  the  straits.  As 
the  stranger  approaches  these  for  the  first  time,  he  makes  up  his 
mind  that  the  vessel  on  which  he  stands  is  out  of  her  course,  and 
is  certainly  running  toward  a  bluff,  and  will  soon  be  in  trouble 
if  she  does  not  change  her  course,  but  as  he  advances  and  the 
entrance  to  this  narrow  channel  becomes  visible,  he  concludes 
that  a  few  moments  ago  he  entertained  a  very  foolish  idea. 

Now,  however,  the  bell  of  the  steamboat  and  a  porter  both 
announce  that  we  are  coming  near  Benicia,  and  that  those  who 
intend  disembarking  here,  had  better  have  their  baggage  and  their 
ticket  in  readiness. 

BENICIA. 

One  would  suppose  as  the  boat  nears  the  wharf  that  she  is 
going  to  run  "  right  into  it,"  but  soon  she  moves  gracefully  round 
and  is  made  fast ;  but  while  those  ashore,  and  those  aboard,  are 
eagerly  scanning  each  other,  to  see  if  there  is  any  familiar  face  to 
which  to  give  the  nod  of  recognition,  or  the  cordial  waving  of  the 
hand  in  friendly  greeting,  we  will  take  our  seats,  and  say  a  word 
or  two  about  this  city. 

Benecia  was  founded,  in  the  fall  of  1847,  by  the  late  Thomas 
O.  Larkin  and  Roland  Semple  (who  was  also  the  originator  and 
editor  of  the  first  California  newspaper  published  at  Monterey, 
August  15th,  1846,  entitled  The  California^,  upon  land  donated 
them  for  the  purpose  by  General  M.  G.  Yallejo,  and  named  in 
honor  of  the  general's  estimable  lady. 

In  1848,  a  number  of  families  took  up  their  residence  here. 
During  the  fall  of  that  year  a  public  school  was  established, 
which  has  been  continued  uninterruptedly  to  the  present.  In  the 
ensuing  spring  a  Presbyterian  church  was  organized,  and  has 
continued  under  its  original  pastor  to  the  present  time. 

The  peculiarly  favorable  position  of  Benicia  recommended  it,  at 
an  early  day,  as  a  suitable  place  for  the  general  military  head- 
quarters of  the  United  States,  upon  the  Pacific.  Being  alike 
convenient  of  access  both  to  the  sea-board  and  interior,  and  far 
enough  from  the  coast  to  be  secure  against  sudden  assault  in  time 


THE    MAMMOTH   TREES  OF   CALAVERAS. 


23 


of  war,  it  was  seen  that  no  more  favorable  position  could  be 
selected,  as  adapted  to  all  contingencies.  These  views  met  the  ap- 
proval of  the  general  government ;  and  accordingly  extensive  store- 
houses were  built,  military  posts  established,  and  arrangements 
made  for  erecting  here  the  principal  arsenal  on  the  Pacific  coast. 

There  already  are  erected 
barracks  for  the  soldiers, 
and  officers'  quarters ;  two 
magazines,  capable  of  hold- 
ing from  six  thousand  to 
seven  thousand  barrels  of 
gunpowder  of  one  hundred 
pounds  each  ;  two  store- 
houses filled  with  gun-car- 
riages, cannon,  ball,  and  sev- 
eral hundred  stand  of  small 
arms;  besides  workshops,  etc. 
About  one  hundred  men 
have  been  employed,  under 
the  superintendence  of  Cap- 
tain F.  D.  Calender,  in  the 
construction  of  an  arsenal 
two  hundred  feet  in  length 
by  sixty  feet  in  width,  and 
three  stories  in  height,  suit- 
ably provided  with  towers, 
loop-holes, windows,  etc.  Be- 
sides this,  a  large  citadel  is 
in  course  of  erection.  Two 
hundred  and  twenty-five 
thousand  dollars  have  al- 
ready been  appropriated  to 
these  works,  and  they  will 
most  probably  require  as 
much  more  before  the  whole 
is  completed. 


24  SCENES    IN    CALIFOENIA. 

Here,  too,  are  ten  highly  and  curiously  ornamented  bronze  can- 
non, six  eight-pounders  and  four  four-pounders,  that  were  brought 
originally  from  old  Spain,  and  taken  at  Fort  Point  during  our  war 
with  Mexico.  The  following  names  and  dates,  besides  coats  of 
arms,  etc.,  are  inscribed  on  some  of  them : 

"  San  Martin,  Ano.  D.  1684." 

"  Poder,  Ano.  D.  1693." 

"  San  Francisco,  Ano.  D.  1673." 

"  San  Domengo,  Ano.  D.  1679." 

u  San  Pedro,  Ano.  D.  1628." 

As  the  barracks  are  merely  a  depot  for  the  reception  and  trans- 
mission of  troops,  it  is  difficult  to  say  how  many  soldiers  are 
quartered  here  at  any  one  time. 

There  are  numerous  other  interesting  places  about  Benicia,  one 
of  which  is  the  extensive  works  of  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship 
Company,  where  all  the  repairs  to  their  vessels  are  made,  coal 
deposited,  etc.,  etc. 

In  1853,  Benicia  was  chosen  the  capital  of  the  state  by  our 
peripatetic  legislature,  and  continued  to  hold  that  position  for 
about  a  year,  when  it  was  taken  to  Sacramento,  where  it  still  (for 
a  wonder)  remains. 

And,  though  last,  by  no  means  the  least  important  feature  of 
Benicia,  is  the  widely-known  and  deservedly  flourishing  boarding- 
school  for  young  ladies,  the  Benicia  Seminary,  under  the  charge 
of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Mills,  founded  in  1852,  and  in  which  several 
young  ladies  have  taken  graduating  honors. 

Next  to  this  is  St.  Augustine's  College  for  young  men,  under  the 
superintendence  of  Rev.  Dr.  Breck,  and  which  was  established  in 
1853  ;  adjoining  which  is  the  college  of  Notre  Dame,  for  the  edu- 
cation of  Catholic  children.  These,  united  to  the  excellent 
sentiments  of  the  people,  make  Benicia  a  favorite  place  of  resi- 
dence for  families. 

MARTINEZ. 

Nearly  opposite  to  Benicia,  and  distant  only  three  miles,  is  the 
pretty  agricultural  village  of  Martinez,  the  county-seat  of  Contra 
Costa  county.  A  week  among  the  live-oaks,  gardens,  and  farms 


THE   MAMMOTH   TKEES    OF   CALAVEKAS.  25 

in  and  around  this  lovely  spot,  will  convince  the  most  sceptical 
that  there  are  few  more  beautiful  places  in  any  part  of  the  state. 
A  steam  ferry-boat  plies  across  the  straits  between  this  place  and 
Benicia,  every  hour  in  the  day.  The  Stockton  boat  always  used 
to  touch  here  both  going  and  returning. 

The  run  across  the  Straits  of  Carquinez,  from  Benicia  to  Mar- 
tinez, three  miles  distant,  takes  about  ten  minutes.  Then,  after 
a  few  moments'  delay,  we  again  dash  onward — the  moonlight 
gilding  the  troubled  waters  in  the  wake  of  our  vessel,  as  she 
plows  her  swift  way  through  the  Bay  of  Suisun,  and  to  all  appear- 
ance deepens  the  shadows  on  the  darker  sides  of  Monte  Diablo, 
by  defining,  with  silvery  clearness,  the  uneven  ridges  and  summit 
of  that  solitary  mountain  mass. 

But  now  we  must  hurry  on  our  way,  as  the  steamboat  is  by 
this  time  passing  the  different  islands  in  the  Bay  of  Suisun,  named 
as  follows :  Preston  Island,  King's,  Simmons',  Davis',  Washing- 
ton, Knox's,  Jones',  and  Sherman's  Island ;  while  on  our  right, 
boldly  distinct  in  outline  and  form,  stands 

MONTE   DIABLO. 

Almost  every  Californiaii  has  seen  Monte  Diablo.  It  is  the 
great  central  landmark  of  the  state.  Whether  we  are  walking  in 
the  streets  of  San  Francisco,  or  sailing  on  any  of  our  bays  and 
navigable  rivers,  or  riding  on  any  of  the  roads  in  the  Sacramento 
and  San  Joaquin  Valleys,  or  standing  -on  the  elevated  ridges  of 
the  mining  districts  before  us — in  lonely  boldness,  and  at  almost 
every  turn,  we  see  Monte  del  Diablo.  Probably  from  its  apparent 
omnipresence  we  are  indebted  to  its  singular  name,  Mount  of  the 
Demi. 

Viewed  from  the  north-west  or  south-east,  it  appears  double,  or 
with  two  elevations,  the  points  of  which  are  about  three  miles 
apart.  The  south-western  peak  is  the  most  elevated,  and  is  three 
thousand  seven  hundred  and  sixty  feet  above  the  sea. 

For  the  purpose  of  properly  surveying  the  state  into  a  net- 
work of  township  lines,  three  meridians  or  initial  points  were 
established  by  the  United  States  Survey,  namely :  Monte  Diablo, 


SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


MONTE  DIABLO,  WITH  A  POETION  OF  SUISUN  BAY,  FEOM  THE   SULPHUR-SPRING  HOUSE. 

Mount  San  Bernardino,  and  Mount  Pierce,  Humboldt  county. 
Across  the  highest  peaks  of  each  of  these,  a  "  meridian  line"  and 
a  "  base  line"  were  run ;  the  latter  from  east  to  west,  and  the 
former  from  north  to  south.  The  boundaries  of  the  Monte  Diablo 
meridian  include  all  the  lands  in  the  great  Sacramento  and  San 
Joaquin  Valleys,  between  the  Coast  Range  and  the  Sierras,  and 
from  the  Siskiyou  Mountains  to  the  San  Bernardino  meridian,  at 
the  head  of  the  Tulare  Valley. 

The  geological  formation  of  this  mountain  is  what  is  usually 
termed  "  primitive  ;"  surrounded  by  sedimentary  rocks,  abound- 
ing in  marine  shells.  Near  the  summit  there  are  a  few  quartz 
veins,  but  whether  gold-bearing  or  not  has  not  yet  been  deter- 
mined. About  one-third  of  the  distance  from  the  top,  on  the 
western  slope,  is  a  "  hornblende"  rock  of  peculiar  structure,  and 
said  by  some  to  contain  gold.  In  the  numerous  spurs  at  the 
base,  there  is  an  excellent  and  inexhaustible  supply  of  limestone. 

At  the  eastern  foot  of  the  mountains,  about  five  miles  from  the 
San  Joaquin  River,  several  veins  of  coal  have  been  discovered, 
and  are  now  being  worked  with  good  prospects  of  remuneration, 


THE   MAMMOTH    TREES    OF    CALAVEKAS.  27 

as  the  veins  grow  thicker  and  the  quality  better,  as  they  proceed 
with  their  labors. 

It  is  said  that  copper  ore  and  cinnabar  have  both  been  found 
here,  but  with  what  truth  we  are  unable  to  determine.  Some 
Spaniards  have  reported  that  they  know  of  some  rich  mineral 
there ;  but  do  not  tell  of  what  kind,  and,  for  reasons  best  known 
to  themselves,  will  neither  communicate  their  secret  to  others  nor 
work  it  themselves. 

If  the  reader  has  no  objection,  we  will  climb  the  mountain — at 
least  in  imagination,  as  the  captain,  although  an  obliging  man 
enough,  will  not  detain  the  boat  for  us  to  ascend  it  de  facto — and 
see  what  further  discoveries  we  can  make. 

Provided  with  good  horses — always  make  sure  of  the  latter  on 
any  trip  you  may  make,  reader — an  excellent  telescope,  and  a 
liberal  allowance  of  luncheon,  let  us  leave  the  beautiful  village  of 
Martinez  at  seven  o'clock  A.M.  For  the  first  four  miles,  we  ride 
over  a  number  of  pretty  and  gently  rolling  hills,  at  a  lively  gait, 
and  arrive  at  the  Pacheco  Valley,  on  the  edge  of  which  stands 
the  flourishing  little  village  of  Pacheco.  We  now  dash  across  the 
valley  at  good  speed  for  eight  miles,  in  a  south-east  direction,  and 
reach  the  western  foot  of  Monte  Diablo,  after  a  good  hour's 
pleasant  ride. 

For  the  first  mile  and  a  half  of  our  ascent  we  have  a  good 
wagon  road,  built  in  1852,  to  give  easy  access  to  a  quartz  lead, 
from  which  considerable  rock  was  taken  in  wagons  to  the  Bay  of 
Suisun,  and,  after  being  shipped  to  San  Francisco,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  being  tested,  was  found  to  contain  gold,  but  not  in  suffi- 
cient quantities  to  pay  for  working  it ;  for  the  next  two  miles,  a 
good,  plain  trail  to  the  main  summit,  passes  several  clear  springs 
of  cold  water. 

From  the  numerous  tracks  of  the  grizzly  bears  that  were  seen 
at  the  springs,  we  may  naturally  conclude  that  such  animals  have 
their  sleeping  apartments  among  the  bunches  of  chaparal  in  the 
canons  yonder :  and,  if  we  should  see  the  track-makers  before  we 
return,  we  hope  our  companions  will  keep  up  their  courage  and 
sufficient  presence  of  mind  to  prevent  themselves  imitating  Mr. 


28  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

Grizzly  at  the  spring — at  least  not  in  the  direction  of  the  settle- 
ments— and  leave  us  alone  in  our  glory. 

As  you  will  perceive,  the  summit  of  the  mountain  is  reached 
without  the  necessity  of  dismounting ;  and  as  there  are  wild  oats 
all  around,  and  the  stores  of  sundries  provided  have  not  been  lost 
or  left  behind,  suppose  we  rest  and  refresh  ourselves,  and  allow 
our  animals  to  do  the  same. 

The  sight  of  the  glorious  panorama  unrolled  at  our  feet,  we  need 
not  tell  you,  amply  repays  us  for  our  early  ride.  As  we  look 
around  us,  we  may  easily  imagine  that  perhaps  the  priests  who 
named  this  mountain  may  have  climbed  it,  and  as  they  saw  the 
wonders  spread  out  before  them,  recalled  to  memory  the  following 
passage  of  holy  writ:  "The  devil  taketh  him  [Jesus]  up  into  an 
exceeding  high  mountain,  and  sheweth  him  all  the  kingdoms  of 
the  world,  and  the  glory  of  them;  and  saith  unto  him,  All  these 
things  will  I  give  thee,  if  thou  wilt  fall  down  and  worship  me'' 
(MATTHEW  4th,  verses  8  and  9) ;  and  from  this  time  called  it  Monte 
del  Diablo.  Of  course,  this  is  mere  supposition,  and  is  as  likely 
to  be  wrong  as  it  is  to  be  right. 

The  Pacific  Ocean ;  the  city,  and  part  of  the  bay  of  San  Fran- 
cisco ;  Fort  Point ;  the  Golden  Gate ;  San  Pablo  and  Suisun 
Bays;  the  government  works  at  Mare  Island ;  Yallejo;  Benicia; 
the  valleys  of  Santa  Clara,  Petaluma,  Sonoma,  Kapa,  Sacramento, 
and  San  Joaquin,  with  their  rivers,  creeks,  and  sloughs,  in  all 
their  tortuous  windings ;  the  cities  of  Stockton  and  Sacramento ; 
and  the  great  line  of  the  snow-covered  Sierras ;  with  numerous 
villages  dotting  the  pine  forests  on  the  lower  mountain  range — are 
all  spread  out  before  you.  In  short,  there  is  nothing  to  obstruct 
the  sight  in  any  direction ;  and,  with  a  good  glass,  the  steamers 
and  vessels  at  anchor  in  the  bay,  and  made  fast  at  the  wharves  of 
San  Francisco,  are  distinctly  visible. 

Stock  may  be  seen  grazing,  in  all  directions,  on  the  mountains. 
To  the  very  summit,  wild  oats  and  chaparal  alternately  grow.  In 
the  canons  are  oak  and  pine  trees  from  fifty  to  one  hundred  feet 
in  height ;  and,  on  the  more  exposed  portions,  there  are  low  trees 
from  twenty  to  thirty  feet  in  height. 


THE    MAMMOTH    TREES    OF    CALAVERAS.  29 

In  the  fall  season,  when  the  wild  oats  and  dead  bushes  are  per 
fectly  dry,  the  Indians  sometimes  set  large  portions  of  the  surface 
of  the  mountains  on  fire ;  and,  when  the  breeze  is  fresh,  and  the 
night  is  dark,  and  the  lurid  flames  leap,  and  curl,  and  sway,  now 
to  this  side  and  now  to  that,  the  spectacle  presented  is  magnificent 
beyond  the  power  of  language  to  express. 

SAILING   UP    THE    SAN   JOAQUIN    EIVEK. 

The  Sacramento  boat,  we  see,  is  going  straight  forward,  and 
will  soon  enter  the  Sacramento  River,  up  which  her  course  lies ; 
while  ours  is  to  the  right,  past  "New  York  of  the  Pacific"  (con- 
taining three  dilapidated  houses),  touching  at  Antioch,  the  conve- 
nient depot  of  the  Monte  Diablo  coal  mines,  just  sufficiently  long  to 
discharge  passengers  and  freight,  we  shoot  up  the  San  Joaquin. 

The  evening  being  calm  and  sultry,  it  soon  becomes  evident 
that,  if  it  is  not  the  height  of  the  musquito  season,  a  very  numer- 
ous band  are  out  on  a  freebooting  excursion ;  and,  although 
their  harvest-home  song  of  blood  is  doubtless  very  musical,  it  is 
matter  of  regret  with  us  to  confess  that,  in  our  opinion,  but  few 
persons  on  board  appear  to  have  any  ear  for  it.  In  order,  however, 
that  their  musical  efforts  may  not  be  entirely  lost  sight  of,  they— 
the  muscjiiitos — take  pleasure  in  writing  and  impressing  their  low 
refrain,  in  red  and  embossed  notes,  upon  the  foreheads  of  the 
passengers,  so  that  he  who  looks  may  read,  "Musquitos !"  when, 
alas!  such  is  the  ingratitude  felt  for  favors  so  voluntarily  per- 
formed, that  flat-handed  blows  are  dealt  out  to  them  in  impetuous 
haste ;  and  blood,  blood,  blood,  and  flattened  musquitos,  are 
written,  in  red  and  dark  brown  spots,  .upon  the  smiter ;  and  the 
notes  of  those  singers  are  heard  no  more ! 

While  the  unequal  warfare  is  going  on,  and  one  carcass  of  the 
slain  induces  at  least  a  dozen  of  the  living  to  come  to  his  funeral 
and  avenge  his  death,  we  are  sailing  on,  on,  up  one  of  the  most 
crooked  and  monotonous  navigable  rivers  out  of  doors ;  and,  as 
we  may  as  well  do  something  more  than  fight  the  little,  bill- 
presenting,  and  tax-collecting  musquitos,  if  only  for  variety,  we 
will  relate  to  the  reader  how,  in  the  early  spring  of  1849,  just 


30 


SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


before  leaving  our  southern  home  on  the  banks  of  "The  Father  of 
Waters,"  the  old  Mississippi,  a  gentleman  arrived  from  northern 
Europe,  and  was  at  once  introduced,  a  member  of  our  little  family 
circle.  Ifow,  however  strange  it  may  appear,  our  new  friend  had 
never  in  his  life  looked  upon  a  live  musquito,  or  a  musquito-bar, 
and,  consequently,  knew  nothing  about  the  arrangements  of  a 
goodfemme  de  charge  for  passing  a  comfortable  night,  where  such 
insects  were  even  more  numerous  than  oranges.  In  the  morning, 
he  seated  himself  at  the  breakfast-table,  his  face  nearly  covered 
with  wounds  received  from  the  enemy's  proboscis,  when  an  in- 
quiry was  made  by  the  lady  of  the  house  if  he  had  passed  the 
night  pleasantly.  "  Yes — yes,"  he  replied  with  some  hesitation ; 
"  yes — toler-a-bly  pleasant ;  although — a — small — fly — annoyed 
me — somewhat!"  At  this  confession  we  could  restrain  ourselves 
no  longer,  but  broke  out  into  a  hearty  laugh,  led  by  our  good- 
natured  hostess,  who  then  exclaimed :  "  Musquitos !  why,  I  never 
dreamed  that  the  marks  on  your  face  were  musquito  bites.  I 
thought  they  might  be  from  a  rash,  or  something  of  that  kind. 
Why,  didn't  you  lower  down  your  musquito-bars  ?"  But,  as  this 
latter  appendage  to  a  bed,  on  the  low,  alluvial  lands  of  a  southern 
river,  was  a  greater  stranger  to  him  than  any  dead  language 
known,  the  "  small  fly"  problem  had  to  be  satisfactorily  solved, 
and  his  sleep  made  sweet. 

Perhaps  it  may  be  well  here  to  remark,  that  the  San  Joaquin 
River  is  divided  into  three  branches,  known,  respectively,  as  the 
west,  middle,  and  east  channels — the  latter  named  being  not  only 
the  main  stream,  but  the  one  used  by  the  steamboats  and  sailing- 
vessels  bound  to  and  from  Stockton — or,  at  least,  to  within  four 
miles  of  that  city,  from  which  point  the  Stockton  slough  is  used. 
The  east,  or  main  channel,  is  navigable  for  small,  stern-wheel 
steamboats  as  high  as  Frezno  City.  Besides  the  three  main  chan- 
nels of  the  San  Joaquin,  before  mentioned,  there  are  numerous 
tributaries,  the  principal  of  which  are  the  Moquelumne,  Calaveras, 
Stanislaus,  Tuolumne,  and  Merced  Rivers. 

An  apparently  interminable  sea  of  tules  extends  nearly  one 
hundred  and  fifty  miles,  south,  up  the  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin ; 


THE   MAMMOTH    TREES    OF   CALAVERAS. 


31 


and  when  these  are  on  fire,  as  'they  not  unfrequently  are,  during 
the  fall  and  early  winter  months,  the  broad  sheet  of  licking  and 
leaping  name,  and  the  vast  volumes  of  smoke  that  rise,  and  eddy, 
and  surge,  hither  and  thither,  present  a  scene  of  fearful  grandeur 
at  night,  that  is  suggestive  of  some  earthly  pandemonium. 


NIGHT   SCENE"   ON   THE  SAN   JOAQUIN   KIVER — MONTE   DIABLO   IN   THE   DISTANCE. 

The  lumbering  sound-  of  the  boat's  machinery  has  suddenly 
ceased,  and  our  high-pressure  motive  power,  descended  from  a 
regular  to  an  occasional  snorting,  gives  us  a  reminder  that  we 
have  reached  Stockton.  Time,  half-past  two  o'clock  A.M. 

At  day-break  we  are  again  disturbed  in  our  fitful  slumbers,  by 
the  rumbling  of  wagons  and  hurrying  bustle  of  laborers  dis- 
charging cargo ;  and  before  we  have  scarcely  turned  over  for 
another  uncertain  nap,  the  stentorian  lungs  of  some  employee  of 
the  stage  companies  announce,  that  "  stages  for  Sonora,  Columbia, 
Moquelumne  Hill,  Sacramento,  Mariposa,  Coulterville,  and  Mur- 
phy's, are  just  about  starting." 


32  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

The  reader  knows  as  well  as  we  do,  tliat  it  is  of  no  use,  what- 
ever, to  be  in  too  great  a  hurry  when  we  are  sight-seeing ;  conse- 
quently, with  his  permission,  we  will  allow  the  stages  to  depart 
without  us  this  morning,  and  take  a  quiet  walk  about  the  city. 

THE    CITY    OF    STOCKTON. 

This  nourishing  commercial  city  is  situated  in  the  valley  of  the 
San  Joaquin,  at  the  head  of  a  deep  navigable  slough  or  arm  of  the 
San  Joaquin  River,  about  three  miles  from  its  junction  with  that 
stream.  The  luxuriant  foliage  of  the  trees  and  shrubs  impress  the 
stranger  with  the  great  fertility  of  the  soil ;  and  the  unusually 
large  number  of  windmills  with  the  manner  of  irrigation.  So 
marked  a  feature  as  the  latter  has  secured  to  this  locality  the  cog- 
nomen of  "the  City  of  Windmills." 

The  land  upon  which  the  city  stands  is  part  of  a  grant  made  by 
Governor  Micheltorena,  to  Captain  C.  M.  Weber  and  Mr.  Gulnac, 
in  1844,  who  most  probably  were  the  first  white  settlers  in  the 
valley  of  the  San  Joaquin ;  although  some  Canadian  Frenchmen, 
in  the  employ  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  spent  several  hunt- 
ing seasons  here,  commencing  as  early  as  1834. 

In  1813,  an  exploring  expedition,  under  Lieutenant  Gabriel 
Morago,  visited  this  valley,  and  gave  it  its  present  name — the 
former,  one  being  "  Yalle  de  los  Tulares,"  or  Yalley  of  Rushes. 
At  that  time,  it  was  occupied  by  a  large  and  formidable  tribe  of 
Indians,  called  the  Yachicumnes,  who,  in  after  times,  were  for  the 
most  part  captured  and  sent  to  the  Missions  Dolores  and  San  Jose, 
or  decimated  by  the  small-pox,  and  now  are  nearly  extinct.  Under 
the  maddening  influence  of  their  losses  by  death  from  that  fatal 
disease,  they  rose  upon  the  whites,  burned  their  buildings  and 
killed  their  stock,  and  forced  them  to  take  shelter  at  the  Mis- 
sions. 

In  1846,  Mr.  "Weber,  reinforced  by  a  number  of  emigrants,  re- 
newed his  efforts  to  form  a  settlement ;  but  the  war  breaking  out, 
compelled  him  to  seek  refuge  in  the  larger  settlements,  until  the 
Bear  flag  was  hoisted,  when  Captain  Weber,  from  his  knowledge 
of  the  country,  and  the  devotedness  of  those  who  had  placed 


34  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

themselves  under  his  command,  was  able  to  render  invaluable  aid 
to  the  American  cause. 

When  the  war  was  concluded,  in  1848,  another  and  successful 
attempt  was  made  to  establish  a  prosperous  settlement  here,  but 
upon  the  discovery  of  gold  it  \vas  again  nearly  deserted. 

Several  cargoes  of  goods  having  arrived  from  San  Francisco,  for 
land  transportation  to  the  southern  mines,  were  suggestive  of  the 
importance  of  this  spot  for  the  foundation  of  a  city,  when  cloth 
tents  and  houses  sprung  up  as  if  by  magic.  On  the  23d  of  De- 
cember, 1849,  a  fire  broke  out  for  the  first  time,  and  the  "  linen 
city,"  as  it  was  then  called,  was  swept  away,  causing  a  loss  of 
about  two  hundred  thousand  dollars.  Almost  before  the  ruins  had 
ceased  smouldering,  a  new^er  and  cleaner  "linen  city,"  with  a  few 
wooden  buildings,  was  erected  in  its  place.  In  the  following 
spring,  a  large  proportion  of  the  cloth  houses  gave  place  to  wooden 
structures;  and,  being  now  in  steam  communication  with  San 
Francisco,  the  new  city  began  to  grow  substantially  in  importance. 

On  the  30th  of  March,  1850,  the  first  weekly  Stockton  newspa- 
per was  published  by  Radcliffe  and  White,  conducted  by  Mr. 
John  "White. 

On  the  same  day,  the  first  theatrical  performance  was  given,  in 
the  Assembly  Room  of  the  Stockton  House,  by  Messrs.  Bingham 
and  Fury. 

On  the  13th  of  May  following,  the  first  election  wras  held — the 
population  then  numbering  about  two  thousand  four  hundred. 

June  26th,  a  fire  department  was  organized,  and  J.  E.  Nuttman 
elected  chief  engineer. 

On  the  25th  of  the  following  month  an  order  was  received  from 
the  County  Court,  incorporating  the  city  of  Stockton,  and  author- 
izing the  election  of  officers.  On  the  1st  of  August,  1850,  an 
election  for  municipal  officers  was  held,  when  seven  hundred 
votes  were  polled,  with  the  following  result: — Mayor,  Samuel 
Purdy ;  Eecorder,  C.  M.  Teak ;  City  Attorney,  Henry  A.  Crabb ; 
Treasurer,  George  D.  Brush  ;  Assessor,  C.  Edmondson ;  Marshal, 
T.  S.  Lubbock. 

On  the  6th  of  May,  1851,  a  fire  broke  out  that  nearly  destroyed 


THE   MAMMOTH   TKEES    OF   CALAVERAS. 


35 


tlie  whole  city,  at  a  loss  of  one  million  five 
hundred  thousand  dollars.  After  this  con- 
flagration, a  large  number  of  brick  buildings 
were  erected. 

In  1852,  steps  were  taken  to  build  a  City 
Hall ;  and  about  the  same  time,  the  south 
wing  of  what  is  now  the  State  Asylum  for 
the  Insane,  was  erected  as  a  General  Hospi- 
tal; but  which  was  abolished  in  1853,  and 
the  Insane  Asylum  formed  into  a  distinct 
institution  by  an  act  of  the  Legislature.  In 
1854,  the  central  building  was  added,  and 
in  1855,  the  kitchen,  bakery,  dining-rooms, 
and  bath-rooms  were  also  added. 

On  the  1st  of  February,  1856,  another 
fire  destroyed  property  to  the  amount  of 
about  sixty  thousand  dollars ;  and  on  the 
30th  of  July  following,  by  the  same  cause, 
about  forty  thousand  dollars'  worth  of  prop- 
erty was  swept  away. 

There  are  twelve  places  of  worship  in 
Stockton  :  two  Presbyterian,  two  Baptist, 
an  Episcopal,  Congregational,  Methodist 
Episcopal,  Methodist  Church  South,  Ger- 
man Methodist,  Catholic,  colored  Metho- 
dist, and  a  Jewish  synagogue. 

Of  newspapers  published  here,  there  are 
the  Stockton  Independent,  daily  and  weekly, 
N.  M.  Orr  &  Co.,  proprietors ;  San  Joaquin 
Republican,  daily  and  weekly,  H.  C.  Pat- 
rick &  Co.,  proprietors  ;  and  the  Evening 
Herald,  daily,  Wm.  Biven,  proprietor. 

There  are  seven  public  schools  here,  with 
an  aggregate  attendance  of  1,275  scholars, 
as  follows:  Washington,  350  ;  Lafayette, 
325 ;  Franklin,  225 ;  North,  100 ;  South,  80 ; 
Vineyard,  125;  Pacific,  70:  Total,  1,275. 


36  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

These  are  exclusive  of  several  flourishing  private  schools,  the 
success  of  which  will  prove  how  well  they  were  conducted. 

Stockton  can  boast  of  having  the  deepest  artesian  well  in  the 
state,  which  is  one  thousand  and  two  feet  in  depth,  and  which 
throws  out  two  hundred  and  fifty  gallons  of  water  per  minute,  fif- 
teen thousand  per  hour,  and  three  hundred  and  sixty  thousand 
gallons  every  twenty-four  hours,  to  the  height  of  eleven  feet  above 
the  plain,  and  nine  feet  above  the  city  grade.  In  sinking  this  well, 
ninety-six  different  strata  of  loam,  clay,  mica,  green  sandstone, 
pebbles,  etc.,  were  passed  through.  Three  hundred  and  forty  feet 
from  the  surface,  a  redwood  stump  was  found,  imbedded  in  sand, 
from  whence  a  stream  of  water  issued  to  the  top.  The  tempera- 
ture of  the  water  is  YT°  Fahrenheit — the  atmosphere  being  only 
60°.  The  cost  of  this  well  was  ten  thousand  dollars. 

One  of  the  principal  features  connected  with  the  commerce  of 
this  city,  is  the  number  of  large  freight  wagons,  laden  for  the 
mines;  these  have,  not  inappropriately,  been  denominated  " prairie 
schooners,"  and  "  steamboats  of  the  plains."  One  team,  belonging 
to  Mr.  Warren,  has  taken  one  hundred  thousand  pounds  to  Mariposa 
in  four  frips,  thus  averaging  twenty-five  thousand  per  trip.  An- 
other team,  belonging  to  Mr.  Huffman,  hauled  thirty-two  thousand 
from  Staple's  Ranche  to  Stockton.  Twenty-nine  thousand  six  hun- 
dred and  eighty  pounds  of  freight,  in  addition  to  seven  hundred 
pounds  of  feed,  were  hauled  to  Jenny  Lind — a  mining  town  on  the 
Moquelumne  Hill  road,  twenty-seven  miles  from  Stockton — by 
twelve  mules.  The  cost  of  these  wagons  is  from  nine  hundred 
to  eleven  hundred  and  fifty  dollars.  In  length,  they  are  generally 
from  twenty  to  twenty-three  feet  on  the  top,  and  from  eighteen 
to  nineteen  feet  on  the  bottom.  Mules  cost  upon  the  average  three 
hundred  and  fifty  dollars  each  ;  and  some  very  large  ones  sell  as 
high  as  one  thousand  four  hundred  dollars  the  span.  One  man 
drives  and  tends  as  many  as  fourteen  animals,  guiding  and  driving 
with  a  single  line.  These  teams  have  nearly  superseded  the  use 
of  pack  trains,  inasmuch  as  formerly  the  number  of  animals  in 
the  packing  trade  exceeded  one  thousand  five  hundred,  and  now 
it  is  only  about  one  hundred  and  sixty.  It  would  be  a  source  of 


THE    MAMMOTH   TREES    OF   CALAVERAS.  37 

considerable  amusement  to  our  eastern  friends,  could  they  see  how 
easily  these  large  mules  are  managed.  They  are  drilled  like  soldiers, 
and  are  almost  as  tractable.  When  a  teamster  cracks  his  whip,  it 
sounds  like  the  sharp  quick  report  of  a  revolver,  and  is  nearly  as  loud. 

Several  stages  leave  Stockton  daily,  at  six  o'clock,  A.M.  :  For 
Chinese  Camp,  fare,  $7  (connecting  at  Chinese  with  stages  for  Big 
Oak  Flat,  Garrote,  Hardin's  Mill,  Tamarack  Flat,  and  at  the  lat- 
ter place  with  saddle  train  to  Hutchings',  in  Yo-Sem'ite,  eleven 
miles  distant.  Also  with  Coulterville) ;  Sonora  and  Columbia, 
fare,  $8  ;  for  Copperopolis,  fare,  $6  ;  Murphy's  Camp,  fare,  $8  ; 
Calaveras  Grove  of  Mammoth  Trees,  fare,  $10.  These  fares,  it 
should  be  remembered,  are  from  Stockton  through  to  the  points 
named.  On  alternate  days,  at  the  same  hour,  for  Mariposa,  the 
Mariposa  Mammoth  Tree  Grove,  and  Yo-Semite,  fare  to  Mariposa, 
$10.  A  daily  line  is  projected  on  this  route. 

The  Western  Pacific  railroad,  directly  connected  with  the 
"  Central  Pacific"  and  "  Union  Pacific,"  passes  straight  through 
Stockton.  Visitors  who  wish  to  see  the  Yo-Semite  valley,  or 
either  grove  of  big  trees,  before  going  to  San  Francisco,  should 
here  leave  the  train,  as  every  mile  in  either  direction,  on  that  great 
thoroughfare,  would  be  that  much  out  of  the  way. 

Two  new  lines  of  railway  are  now  being  constructed  :  "  The 
Stockton  and  Copperopolis,"  and  "  The  Stockton  and  Tulare." 
The  terminus  of  the  former  will  be  thirty-six  miles,  on  the  shortest, 
as  well  as  on  one  of  the  most  picturesque  of  routes,  to  both  the 
Calaveras  Grove  and  the  Yo-Semite.  The  latter  will  pass  a  point 
some  twelve  miles  west  of  "  Snelling's,"  on  the  Merced  River,  and 
will  convey  passengers  on  the  Mariposa  route  to  within  some 
ninety -five  miles  of  Yo-Semite.  Both  these  lines  will  afford 
pleasant  and  rapid  transit  over  the  dusty  plains — now  the  least 
comfortable  of  any  portion  of  the  trip. 

STOCKTON,  VIA   COPPKROPOLIS,    TO    THE    CALAVERAS    BIG    TREES. 

u  All  aboard  for  Copperopolis,  Murphy's,  and  the  Calaveras  Big- 
Tree  Grove,"  cries  the  coachman.  "  All  set,"  shouts  somebody 
in  answer;  when,  "crack  goes  the  whip,  and  away  go  we." 


38  SCENES   IN   CALIFORNIA. 

There  is  a  feeling  of  jovial,  good-humored  pleasureableness  that 
steals  insensibly  over  the  secluded  residents  of  cities  when  all  the 
cares  of  a  daily  routine  of  duties  are  left  behind,  and  the  novelty 
of  fresh  scenes  forms  new  sources  of  enjoyment.  Especially  is  it  so 
when  seated  comfortably  in  an  easy  old  stage,  with  the  prospect  be- 
fore us  of  witnessing  one  of  the  most  wonderful  sights  to  be  found 
in  any  far-off  country,  either  of  the  old  or  new  world.  Besides,  in 
addition  to  our  being  in  the  reputed  position  of  a  Frenchman  with 
his  dinner,  who  is  said  to  enjoy  it  three  times — first,  by  anticipa- 
tion ;  second,  in  participation  ;  and  third,  upon  retrospection ;  we 
have  new  views  perpetually  breaking  upon  our  admiring  sight. 

As  soon  as  we  have  passed  over  the  best  gravelled  streets  of  any 
town  or  city  in  the  state,  without  exception,  we  thread  our  way 
past  the  beautiful  suburban  residences  of  the  city  of  Stockton,  and 
emerge  from  the  shadows  of  the  giant  oaks  that  stand  on  either 
side  the  road.  The  deliciously  cool  breath  of  early  morning,  laden 
as  it  is  in  spring  and  early  summer,  with  the  fragrance  of  myriads  of 
flowers  and  scented  shrubs,  we  inhale  with  an  acme  of  enjoyment 
that  contrasts  inexpressibly  with  the  almost  stifling  and  unsavory 
warmth  of  a  liliputian  state-room  on  board  a  high-pressure  steamboat. 

The  bracing  air  will  soon  restore  the  loss  of  appetite  resulting 
from,  and  almost  consequent  upon,  the  excitement  created  by  the 
novel  circumstances  and  prospects  attending  us,  so  that  when  we 
arrive  at  the  first  public-house  for  a  change  of  horses,  and  break- 
fast is  announced,  it  is  not  by  any  means  an  unwelcome  sound. 
The  inner  man  being  allowed  about  fifteen  minutes  to  receive 
satisfaction,  and  a  fresh  relay  of  horses  provided,  we  are  soon  upon 
our  way  again.  At  the  "  twenty-seven  mile  house,"  we  again 
"  change"  horses.  By  this  time  the  day  and  the  travellers  all  be- 
come warm  together;  and  as  the  cooling  land-breeze  dies  out, 
the  dust  begins  to  pour  in  by  every  chink  and  aperture,  so  that 
the  luxurious  enjoyments  of  the  early  morning  depart  in  the  same 
way  that  lawyers  are  said  to  get  to  heaven — by  degrees. 

Leaving  Copperopolis,  we  pass  through  the  mining  towns  of 
Angel's  Camp,  Yallecito,  and  Douglas  Flat,  arriving  at  Sperry 
<fe  Perry's  hotel  in  Murphy's  Camp  about  dark.  Early  the 
next  morning  let  us  start  for  the  Mammoth-Tree  Grove. 


THE    MAMMOTH   TREES    OF   CALAVERA8.  39 


ROAD   TO   THE   MAMMOTH-TREE    GROVE. 

Leaving  the  mining  town  of  Murphy's  Camp  behind,  we  cross 
the  "  Flat,"  and — about  half  a  mile  from  town — proceed,  upon  a 
good  carriage  road,  up  a  narrow  canon,  now  upon  this  side  of  the 
stream,  and  now  on  'that,* as  the  hills  proved  favorable,  or  other- 
wise;  for  the  construction  of  the  road.  If  our  visit  is  supposed  to 
be  in  spring  or  early  summer,  every  mountain  side,  even  to  the 
tops  of  the  ridges,  is  covered  with  flowers  and  flowering-shrubs  of 
great  variety  and  beauty ;  while,  on  either  hand,  groves  of  oaks 
and  pines  stand  as  shade-giving  guardians  of  personal  comfort  ,to 
the  dust-covered  traveller  on  a  sunny  day. 

As  we  continue  our  ascent  for  a  few  miles,  the  road  becomes 
more  undulating  and  gradual,  and  lying,  for  the  most  part,  on  the 
top,  or  gently  sloping  sides,  of  a  dividing  ridge;  often  through 
dense  forests  of  tall,  magnificent  pines,  that  are  from  one  hundred 
and  seventy  to  two  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  height,  slender, 
and  straight  as  an  arrow.  We  measured  one,  that  had  fallen,  that 
was  twenty  inches  in  diameter  at  the  base,  and  fourteen  and  a  half 
inches  in  diameter  at  the  distance  of  one  hundred  and  twenty-five 
feet  from  the  base.  The  ridges  being  nearly  clear  of  an  under- 
growth of  shrubbery,  and  the  trunks  of  the  trees,  "for  fifty  feet 
upward,  or  more,  entirely  clear  of  branches,  the  eye  of  the 
traveller  can  wander,  delightedly,  for  a  long  distance',  among  the 
captivating  scenes  of  the  forest. 

At  different  distances  upon  the  route,  the  canal  of  the  Union 
"Water  Company  winds  its  sinuous  way  on  the  top  or  around  the 
sides  of  the  ridge;  or  its  sparkling  contents  rush  impetuously 
down  the  water-furrowed  centre  of  a  ravine.  Here  and  there  an 
aqueduct,  or  cabin,  or  saw-mill,  gives  variety  to  an  ever-changing 
landscape. 

When  within  about  four  and  a  half  miles  of  the  Mammoth-Tree 
Grove,  the  surrounding  mountain  peaks  and  ridges  are  boldly 
visible.  Looking  south-east,  the  uncovered  head  of  Bald  Moun- 
tain silently  announces  its  solitude  and  distinctiveness ;  west,  the 
"  Coast  Mountain  range"  forms  a  continuous  girdle  to  the  horizon, 


40  SCENES   IN    CALIFORNIA. 

extending  to  ~the  north  and  east,  where  the  snowy  tops  of  the 
Sierras  form  a  magnificent  back-ground  to  the  glorious  picture. 

While  we  have  been  thus  riding  and  admiring,  and  talking  and 
wondering,  and  musing  concerning  the  beautiful  scenes  we  have 
witnessed,  the  deepening  shadows  of  the  densely-timbered  forest 
we  are  entering,  by  the  awe  they  inspire — at  first  gently  and  im- 
perceptibly, then  rapidly  and  almost  to  be  felt — prepare  our  minds 
to  appreciate  the  imposing  grandeur  of  the  objects  we  are  about 
to  see,  just  as 

"Coming  events  cast  their  shadows  before." 

The  gracefully-curling  smoke  from  the  chimneys  of  the  Big- 
Tree  Cottage,  that  is  now  visible ;  the  inviting  refreshment  of  the 
inner  man ;  the  luxurious  feeling  arising  from  bathing  the  hands 
and  temples  in  cold,  clear  water — especially  after  a  ride  or  walk — 
are  alike  disregarded.  One  thought,  one  feeling,  one  emotion— 
that  of  vastness,  sublimity,  profoundness,  pervades  the  whole  soul ; 
for  there 

"  The  giant  trees,'  in  silent  majesty, 
Like  pillars,  stand  'neath  Heaven's  mighty  dome, 
'Twould  seem  that,  perch'd  upon  their  topmost  branch, 
With  outstretch'd  finger,  man  might  touch  the  stars; 
Yet,  could  he  gain  that  height,  the  boundless  sk\ 
Were  still  as  far  beyond  his  utmost  reach, 
As  from  the  burrowing  toilers  in  a  mine. 
Their  age  unknown,  into  what  depths  of  time 
Might  Fancy  wander  sportively,  and  deem 
Some  Monarch-Father  of  this  grove  set  forth 
His  tiny  shoot,  when  the  primeval  flood 
Receded  from  the  old  and  changed  earth ; 
Perhaps,  coeval  with  Assyrian  kings, 
His  branches  in  dominion  spread ;  from  age 
To  age,  his  sapling  heirs  with  empires  grew. 
When  Time  those  patriarchs'  leafy  tresses  strew'd 
Upon  the  earth,  while  Art  and  Science  slept, 
And  ruthless  hordes  drove  back  Improvement's  stream 
Their  sturdy  oaklings  throve,  and,  in  their  turn, 
Rose,  when  Columbus  gave  to  Spain  a  world. 
How  many  races,  savage  or  refined, 
Have  dwelt  beneath  their  shelter !     Who  shall  say 


THE   MAMMOTH   TKEES   OF   CALAVEliAS. 


HOTEL  AT  THE  CALAVERAS  GROVE  OF  BIG  TREES. 

(If  hands  irreverent  molest  them  not) 
But  they  may  shadow  mighty  cities,  reared 
E'en  at  their  roots,  in  centuries  to  come, 
Till,  with  the  "  Everlasting  Hills"  they  bow, 
When  "Time  shall  be  no  longer!"* 

Before  wandering  further  amid  the  wild  secluded  depths  of  this 
forest,  it  will  be  well  that  the  horse  and  his  rider  should  partake 
of  some  good  and  substantial  repast,  such  as  he  will  here  find 
provided,  inasmuch  as  it  is  not  always  wisest, or  best,  to  explore 
the  wonderful,  or  look  upon  the  beautiful, with  an  empty  stomach, 
especially  after  a  bracing  and  appetitive  ride  of  fifteen  miles. 
While  thus  engaged,  let  us  explain  some  matters  that  we  have 
reserved  for  this  occasion. 

*  Extract  from  Mrs.  Conner's  forthcoming  play  of  "The  Three  Brothers;  or,  the 
Mammoth  Grove  of  Calavera^  :  a  Legend  of  California." 


4:2 


SCENES   IN    CALIFORNIA. 


The  Mammoth-Tree  Grove, 
then,  is  situated  in  a  gently  slo- 
ping, and,  as  you  have  seen, 
heavily-timbered  valley,  on  the 
divide  or  ridge  between  the  San 
Antonio  branch  of  the  Calaveras . 
River  and  the  north  fork  of  the 
Stanislaus  River ;  inlat.  38°  north, 
long.  120°  10'  west ;  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  2,300  feet  above  Murphy's 
Camp,  and  4,370  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea;  at  a  distance 
of  ninety-seven  miles  from  Sac- 
ramento City,  and  eighty-seven 
from  Stockton. 

When  specimens  of  this  tree, 
with  its  cones  and  foliage,  were 
sent  to  England  for  examination, 
Professor  Lindley,  an  eminent 
English  botanist,  considered  •  it 
as  forming  a  new  genus,  and  ac- 
cordingly named  it  (doubtless 
with  the  best  intentions,  but  still 
unfairly)  "  "Wellingtonia  gigan- 
tea ;"  but  through  the  examina- 
tions of  Mr.  Lobb,  a  gentleman 
of  rare  botanical  attainments, 
who  has  spent  several  years  in 
California,  devoting  himself  to 
this  interesting,  and,  to  him,  fa- 
vorite branch  of  study,  it  is  de- 
cided to  belong  to  the  Taxodium 
family,  and  must  be  referred  to 
the  old  genus  Sequoia  sempervi- 
rens ;  and  consequently,  as  it  is 
not  a  new  genus,  and  as  it  has 


THE   MAMMOTH   TREES  .  OF   CALAVEKAS.  43 

been  properly  examined  and  classified,  it  is  now  known,  only, 
among  scientific  men,  as  the  Sequoia  gigantea  (sempervirens)  and 
not  "Wellingtonia,"  or,  as  some  good  and  laudably  patriotic  souls 
would  have  it,  to  prevent  the  English  from  stealing  American 
thunder,  " Washing tonia  gigantea." 

Within  an  area  of  fifty  acres,  there  are  one  hundred  and  three 
trees  of  a  goodly  size,  twenty  of  which  exceed  twenty-five  feet  in 
diameter  at  the  base,  and,  consequently,  are  about  seventy-five  fe 
in  circumference ! 


WORKMEN   ENGAGED   IN   FELLING   THE   MAMMOTH   TREE. 

But — the  repast  over — let  us  first  walk  upon  the  "  Big-Tree 
Stump"  adjoining  the  cottage.  You  see  it  is  perfectly  smooth, 
sound,  and  level.  Upon  this  stump,  however  incredible  it  may 
seem,  on  the  4th  of  July,  thirty-two  persons  were  engaged  in 
dancing  four  sets  of  .cotillions  at  one  time,  without  suffering  any 
inconvenience  whatever;  and  besides  these,  there  were  mu- 
sicians and  lookers-on.  Across  the  solid  wood  of  this  stump, 
five  and  a  half  feet  from  the  ground  (now  the  bark  is  removed, 
which  was  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches  in  thickness),  measures 


4A  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

twenty-five  feet,  and  with  the  bark,  twenty-eight  feet.  Think  for 
a  moment ;  the  stump  of  a  tree  exceeding  nine  yards  in  diameter, 
and  sound  to  the  very  centre. 

This  tree  employed  five  men  for  twenty-two  days  in  felling  it — 
not  by  chopping  it  down,  but  by  boring  it  off  with  pump  augers. 
After  the  stem  was  fairly  severed  from  the  stump,  the  uprightness 
of  the  tree,  and  breadth  of  its  base,  sustained  it  in  its  position. 
To  accomplish  the  feat  of  throwing  it  over,  about  two  and  a  half 
days  of  the  twenty-two  were  spent  in  inserting  wedges,  and 
driving  them  in  with  the  butts  of  trees,  until,  at  last,  the  noble 
monarch  of  the  forest  was  forced  to  tremble,  and  then  to  fall,  after 
braving  "the  battle  and  the  breeze"  of  nearly  three  thousand 
winters.  In  our  estimation,  it  was  a  sacrilegious  act ;  although 
it  is  possible,  that  the  exhibition  of  the  bark,  among  the  unbe- 
lievers of  the  eastern  part  of  our  continent,  and  of  Europe,  may 
have  convinced  all  the  "  Thomases"  living,  that  we  have  great 
facts  in  California,  that  must  be  believed,  sooner  or  later.  This 
is  the  only  palliating  consideration  with  us  for  this  act  of  desecra- 
tion. 


VIEW    OF   DOUBLE   BOWLING- ALLEY   OX   TRUNK   OF   BIG   TREE. 

This  noble  tree  was  three  hundred  and  two  feet  in  height,  and 
ninety-six  feet  in  circumference  at  the  ground.  Upon  the  upper 
part  of  the  prostate  trunk  is  constructed  a  long  double  bowling1- 


THE    MAMMOTH    TKEES    OF    CALAVERAS.  4:5 

alley,  where  the  athletic  sport  of  playing  bowls  may  afford  a 
pastime  and  change  to  the  visitor. 

Now  let  us  walk,  among  the  giant  shadows  of  the  forest,  to 
another  of  these  wonders — the  largest  tree  now  standing ;  which, 
from  its  immense  size,  two  breast-like  protuberances  on  one  side, 
and  the  number  of  small  trees  of  the  same  class  adjacent,  has  been 
named  "  The  Mother  of  the  Forest."  In  the  summer  of  1854,  the 
bark  was  stripped  from  this  tree  by  Mr.  George  Gale,  for  pur- 
poses of  exhibition  in  the  East,  to  the  height  of  one  hundred 
and  sixteen  feet;  and  it  now  measures  in  circumference,  without 
the  bark,  at  the  base,  eighty-four  feet ;  twenty  feet  from  base, 
sixty-nine  feet ;  seventy  feet  from  base,  forty-three  feet  six  inches ; 
one  hundred  and  sixteen  feet  from  base,  and  up  to  the  bark, 
thirty-nine  feet  six  inches.  The  full  circumference  at  base,  in- 
cluding bark,  was  ninety  feet.  Its  height  is  three  hundred  and 
twenty-one  feet.  The  average  thickness  of  bark  was  eleven 
inches,  although  in  places  it  was  about  two  feet.  This  tree  is 
estimated  to  contain  five  hundred  and  thirty-seven  thousand  feet 
of  sound  inch  lumber.  To  the  first  branch  it  is  one  hundred 
and  thirty-seven  feet.  The  small  black  marks  upon  the  tree 
indicate  points  where  two  and  a  half  inch  auger  holes  were  bored, 
into  which  rounds  were  inserted,  by  which  to  ascend  and  descend, 
while  removing  the  bark.  At  different  distances  upward,  especi- 
ally at  the  top,  numerous  dates,  and  names  of  visitors,  have  been 
cut.  It  is  contemplated  to  construct  a  circular  stairway  around 
this  tree.  When  the  bark  was  being  removed,  a  young  man  fell 
from  the  scaffolding — or,  rather,  out  of  a  descending  noose — at  a 
distance  of  seventy-nine  feet  from  the  ground,  and  escaped  with  a 
broken  limb.  We  were  within  a  few  yards  of  him  when  he  fell, 
and  were  agreeably  surprised  to  discover  that  he  had  not  broken 
his  neck. 

A  short  distance  from  the  above  lies  the  prostrate  and  majestic 
body  of  the  "  Father  of  the  Forest,"  the  largest  tree  of  the  entire 
group,  half-buried  in  the  soil.  This  tree  measures  in  circumfer- 
ence, at  the  roots,  one  hundred  and  ten  feet.  It  is  two  hundred 
feet  to  the  first  branch  ;  the  whole  of  which  is  hollow,  and  through 


SCENES   IN    CALIFORNIA. 


VIEW  OP  THE  "FATHER  OP  THE  FOREST." 

which  a  person  can  walk  erect.  By  the  trees  that  were  broken 
off  when  this  tree  bowed  its  proud  head,  in  its  fall,  it  is  estimated 
that,  when  standing,  it  could  not  be  less  than  four  hundred  and 
thirty-five  feet  in  height.  Three  hundred  feet  from  the  roots, 
and  where  it  was  broken  off  by  striking  against  another  large 
tree,  it  is  eighteen  feet  in  diameter.  Around  this  tree  stand  the 
graceful,  yet  giant  trunks  of  numerous  other  trees,  which  form  a 
family  circle,  and  make  this  the  most  imposing  scene  in  the  whole 
grove.  From  its  immense  size,  and  the  number  of  trees  near, 
doubtless  originated  the  name.  Near  its  base  is  a  never-failing 
spring  .of  cold  and  delicious  water. 

Let  us  not  linger  here  too  long,  but  pass  on  to  "  The  Husband 
and  Wife" — a  graceful  pair  of  trees  that  are  leaning,  with  ap- 
parent affection,  against  each  other.  Both  of  these  are  of  the 
same  size,  and  measure  in  circumference,  at  the  base,  about  sixty 
feet ;  ,and  in  height  are  about  two  hundred  and  fifty-two  feet. 

A  short  distance  further  is  "  The  Burnt  Tree ;"  which  is  pros- 
trate, and  hollow  from  numerous  burnings — in  which  a  person  can 
ride  on  horseback  for  sixty  feet.  The  estimated  height  of  this 
tree,  when  standing,  was  three  hundred  and  thirty  feet,  and  its 
circumference  ninety-seven  feet.  It  now  measures  across  the 
roots  thirty-nine  feet  six  inches. 

"  Hercules,"  another  of  these  giants,  is  ninety-five  feet  in  cir- 
cumference, and  three  hundred  and  twenty  feet  high.  On  the 
trunk  of  this  tree  is  cut  the  name  of  "G.M.  "Wooster,  June,  1850  ;" 


THE    MAMMOTH    TREES    OF    CALAVERAS.  4< 

so  that  it  is  possible  this  person  may  some  day  claim  precedence  to 
Mr.  Dowd,  in  this  great  discovery.*  At  all  events,  it  was  through 
the  latter  that  the  world  became  acquainted  with  the  grove.  There 
are  many  other  trees  of  this  group  that  claim  a  passing  notice;  but, 
inasmuch  as  they  very  much  resemble  each  other,  we  shall  only 
mention  them  briefly. 


THE   CONE,  AND   FOLIAGE   OF   THE   MAMMOTH   TREES — FULL   SIZE. 

The  "  Hermit,"  a  lonely  old  fellow,  is  318  feet  in  height,  and 
00  in  circ-umfurence ;  exceedingly  straight  and  well  formed. 

*  Since  writing  the  above,  we  have  made  the  acquaintance  of  Mr.  Wooster,  who 
disclaims  all  title  to  the  discovery,  although  of  the  same  party;  and  gives  it  to  W. 
"VHiitehead,  Esq.,  who,  while  tying  his  shoe,  looked  casually  around  him,  and  saw  the 
trees,  June,  1850. 


48  SCENES    IN     CALIFORNIA. 

The  "Old  Maid" — a  stooping,  broken-topped,  and  forlorn- 
looking  spinster  of  the  big-tree  family — is  two  hundred  and 
sixty-one  feet  in  height,  and  fifty-nine  feet  in  circumference. 

As  a  fit  companion  to  the  above,  though  at  a  respectful  distance 
from  it,  stands  the  dejected-looking  "  Old  Bachelor."  This  tree, 
as  lonely  and  as  solitary  as  the  former,  is  one  of  the  roughest,  bark- 
rent  specimens  of  the  big  trees  to  be  found.  In  size  it  rather  has 
the  advantage  of  the  "  Old  Maid,"  being  about  two  hundred  and 
ninety-eight  feet  in  height,  and  sixty  feet  in  circumference. 

Near  to  the  "  Old  Bachelor"  is  the  "  Pioneer's  Cabin,"  the  top 
of  which  is  broken  off  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  from  the 
ground.  This  tree  measures  thirty-three  feet  in  diameter ;  but,  as 
it  is  hollow,  and  uneven  in  its  circumference,  its  average  size  will 
not  be  quite  equal  to  that. 

The  "  Siamese  Twins,"  as  their  name  indicates,  with  one  large 
stem  at  the  ground,  form  a  double  tree  about  forty-one  feet 
upward.  These  are  each  three  hundred  feet  in  height. 

Near  to  them  stands  the  "  Guardian,"  a  fine-looking  old  tree, 
three  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  height,  by  eighty-one  feet  in  cir- 
cumference. 

The  "  Mother  and  Son"  form  another  beautiful  sight,  as  side  by 
side  they  stand.  The  former  is  three  hundred  and  fifteen  feet  in 
height,  and  the  latter  three  hundred  and  two  feet.  Unitedly. 
their  circumference  is  ninety-three  feet. 

The  "  Horseback  Ride"  is  an  old,  broken,  and  long  prostrate 
trunk,  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  length,  hollow  from  one  end 
to  the  other,  and  in  which,  to  the  distance  of  seventy -two  feet,  a 
person  can  ride  on  horseback.  At  the  narrowest  place  inside,  this 
tree  is  twelve  feet  high. 

"Uncle  Tom's  Cabin"  is  another  fanciful  name,  given  to  a  tree 
that  is  hollow,  and  in  which  twenty-five  persons  can  be  seated 
comfortably  (not,  as  a  friend  at  our  elbow  suggests,  in  each  other's 
laps,  perhaps !)  This  tree  is  three  hundred  and  five  feet  in  height, 
and  ninety-one  feet  in  circumference. 

The  "  Pride  of  the  Forest"  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  trees  of 
this  wonderful  grove.  It  is  well-shaped,  straight,  and  sound; 


THE   MAMMOTH   TREES    OF   CALAVEKAS.  49 

and,  although  not  quite  as  large  as  some  of  the  others,  it  is,  never- 
theless, a  noble-looking  member  of  the  grove,  two  hundred  and 
seventy-five  feet  in  height,  and  sixty  feet  in  circumference. 


THE  "THREE  GRACES." 


50  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

The  "  Two  Guardsmen"  stand  by  the  roadside,  at  the  entrance 
of  the  "  clearing,"  and  near  the  cottage.  They  seem  to  be  the 
sentinels  of  the  valley.  In  height,  these  are  three  hundred  feet ; 
and  in  circumference,  one  is  sixty-five  feet,  and  the  other  sixty- 
nine  feet. 

Next — though  last  in  being  mentioned,  not  least  in  gracefulness 
and  beauty — stand  the  "  Three  Sisters" — by  some  called  the 
"  Three  Graces" — one  of  the  most  beautiful  groups  (if  not  the 
most  beautiful)  of  the  whole  grove.  Together,  at  their  base,  they 
measure  in  circumference  ninety-two  feet ;  and  in  height  they  are 
nearly  equal,  and  each  measures  nearly  two  hundred  and  ninety- 
five  feet. 

Many  of  the  largest  of  these  trees  have  been  deformed  and 
otherwise  injured,  by  the  numerous  and  large  fires  that  have 
swept  with  desolating  fury  over  .this  forest,  at  different  periods. 
But  a  small  portion  of  decayed  timber,  of  the  Taxodium  genus, 
can  be  seen.  Like  other  varieties  of  the  same  species,  it  is  less 
subject  to  decay,  even  when  fallen  and  dead,  than  other  woods. 

Respecting  the  age  of  this  grove,  there  has  been  but  one  opinion 
among  the  best  informed  botanists,  which  is  this — that  each  con- 
centric circle  is  the  growth  of  one  year ;  and  as  nearly  three  thou- 
sand concentric  circles  can  be  counted  in  the  stump  of  the  fallen 
tree,  it  is  correct  to  conclude  that  these  trees  are  nearly  three  thou- 
sand years  old.  "This,"  says  the  Gardener's  Calendar,  "may 
very  well  be  true,  if  it  does  not  grow  above  two  inches  in  diame- 
ter in  twenty  years,  which  we  believe  to  be  the  fact." 

Could  those  magnificent  and  venerable  forest  giants  of  Calaveras 
county  be  gifted  with  a  descriptive  historical  tongue,  how  their 
recital  would  startle  us,  as  they  told  of  the  many  wonderful 
changes  that  have  taken  place  in  California  within  the  last  three 
thousand  years  I* 

*  Almost  eight  miles  from  here  is  the  wonderful  "  South  Grove,"  by  far  the  largest 
and  finest  grove  of  Sequoias  yet  discovered  in  California.  It  contains  1,380  trees, 
many  of  them  of  the  most  magnificent  proportions.  We  measured  ten  trees  that  were 
twenty-one  feet  larger  in  circumference  than  any  others  in  either  of  the  groves. 
Through  the  prostrate  trunk  of  one  tree,  resembling  an  immense  tube,  we  could  have 
driven  one  of  the  heaviest  Concord  stages,  crowded  with  passengers,  a  distance  of  200 
feet.  The  trip  can  be  made  there  and  back  in  one  day  from  the  Calaveras  Grove. 


THE  CAVES  OF  CALAVERAS  COUNTY. 


51 


CHAPTER    II. 
THE  CAVES  OF  CALAVERAS  COUNTY. 

"  Nature — faint  emblem  of  Omnipotence ! 
Shaped  by  His  hand — the  shadow  of  His  light; 
The  veil  in  which  He  wraps  His  majesty, 
And  through  whose  mantling  folds  He  deigns  to  show, 
Of  His  mysterious,  awful  attributes 
And  dazzling  splendors,  ah"  man's  feeble  thought 
Can  grasp  uncrushed,  or  vision  bear  unquenched." 

STREET'S  POEMS. 


TI1K    MOUTH    OF    THE    CAVE. 

AFTER  the  visitor  has  lingered  long  among  the  scenes  we  have 
just  described,  he  will  feel  that  he 

"  Could  pass  days 

Stretched  in  the  shade  of  those  old  cedar  trees, 
Watching  the  sunshine  like  a  blessing  fall — 
The  breeze  like  music  wandering  o'er  the  boughs, 
Each  tree  a  natural  harp — each  different  leaf 
A  different  note,  blent  in  one  vast  thanksgiving." 


52  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

Yet  lie  may  entertain  a  desire  to  look  upon  other  wonders 
that 

"  Are  but  parts  of  a  stupendous  whole," 

and  pay  a  visit  to  the  natural  caves.  These  caves  are  situated  on 
McKinney's  Humbug,  a  tributary  of  the  Calaveras  River,  about 
fourteen  miles  west  of  the  mammoth  trees,  sixteen  miles  south, 
by  the  trail,  from  Moquelumne  Hill,  seven  miles  north,  from 
Murphy's  Camp,  nine  miles  east  of  San  Andreas,  and  near  the 
mouth  of  O'Neil's  Creek. 

They  were  discovered  accidentally,  in  October,  1850,  by  Cap- 
tain Taylor,  who,  with  others,  was  engaged  in  mining  on  this 
creek,  and  who,  having  finished  their  mid-day  repast,  were  spend- 
ing the  interval,  before  resuming  their  afternoon's  work,  in  shoot- 
ing at  a  mark  near  the  back  of  their  cabin.  Mr.  Taylor,  having 
just  fired  his  rifle,  proceeded  to  examine  the  mark,  and  having 
hit  the  centre,  proposed  that  it  should  be  placed  at  a  greater 
distance  than  any  at  which  they  had  ever  before  tried  their  skill ; 
and  was  looking  out  for  a  tree  upon  which  to  place  it,  when  he 
saw  a  hole  among  the  rocks.  He  immediately  went  to  it,  and, 
seeing  that  the  aperture  extended  into  the  mountain  for  some 
distance,  he  called  to  his  companions,  and  they  conjointly  com- 
menced to  explore  it. 

But  let  us  not  keep  the  reader  waiting ;  and  as  the  following 
excellent  description  from  the  Pacific  is  so  truthfully  descriptive 
of  this  curiosity,  we  transcribe  it  for  this  work. 

"  The  entrance  is  round  a  jutting  angle  of  a  ledge  of  rocks 
which  hides  the  small  mining  town  adjacent  from  sight. 

THE    ENTRANCE. 

"  Only  the  house  of  the  proprietor  is  to  be  seen.  The  country 
around  is  wild  and  romantic.  Provided  with  adamantine  candles, 
we  entered  through  a  small  doorway,  which  had  been  blasted  out 
to  a  sufficient  size.  Thence  we  crept  along  twenty-five  or  thirty 
feet,  threading  our  way  through  an  irregular  and  difficult  passage, 
at  first  descending  rapidly,  but  afterward  level.  Sometimes  we 


THE  CAVES  OF  CALAVEEAS  COUNTY.  ,  53 

were  forced  to  stoop,  and  at  others  to  bend  the  body  in  accordance 
with  the  seam  of  the  rocks  which  constitute  the  passage.  Sud- 
denly we  emerged  into  a  large  vault  or  room,  about  sixty  feet  in 
length  by  twenty  in  breadth,  with  an  irregular  roof,  running  up 
in  some  places  thirty  feet.  This  room  is  called 

THE   COUNCIL   CHAMBER. 

"The  walls  are  dark,  rough,  and  solid,  rather  than  beautiful. 
Descending  a  little  to  the  south-west,  we  again  made  our  way 
through  a  long,  low  passage,  which  led  to  another  room  of  half 
the  size  of  the  Council  Chamber.  Rising  from  the  floor  of  this 
room,  by  another  narrow  passage,  we  soon  came  into  a  third  large 
room,  of  irregular  construction.  The  roof  ascends,  until  lost  to 
sight  in  perfect  darkness ;  here,  as  far  up  as  the  eye,  assisted  by 
the  dim  taper,  can  reach,  the  lime  depositions  present  a  perfect 
resemblance  to  a  vast  cataract  of  waters  rushing  from  an  incon- 
ceivable height,  in  a  perfect  sheet  of  foam,  leaping  from  one  great 
shelf  of  jutting  rock  down  to  others,  onward,  widening  as  they 
near,  in  exact  perspective.  This  room  is  called 

THE    CATAKACT. 

"  And  well  does  it  deserve  the  name.  Next  we  descended  a 
short  distance,  by  another  passage,  and  entered  a  small,  round 
room,  in  the  centre  of  the  roof  of  which  runs  up  a  lofty  opening, 
sixty  feet  high,  of  singular  appearance.  This  apartment  is  called 

THE    CATHEDRAL. 

"  Turning  back  by  the  Cataract,  we  passed  an  easy  way  by  a 
deep  wTell  of  water  upon  the  left,  and  very  singular  small  pools  or 
reservoirs  on  the  right.  Leaving  these,  we  soon  entered  a  spa- 
cious room,  full  one  hundred  feet  square,  and  of  fair  proportionate 
height.  Through  another  low  opening,  we  entered  yet  another 
great  room,  near  the  centre  of  which  stands  a  large,  dark  struc- 
ture, the  perfect  likeness  of  a  full-robed  Roman  Bishop,  minus  the 
head ;  whence  the  name  for  the  room,  the 


54:  ,  SCENES   IN   CALIFORNIA. 

BISHOP'S    PALACE. 

"Descending  through  another  small  opening,  we  entered  a 
room  beautifully  ornamented  with  pendents  from  the  roof,  white 
as  the  whitest  feldspar,  and  of  every  possible  form.  Some  like 
garments  hung  in  a  wardrobe,  every  fold  and  seam  complete ; 
others  like  curtains,  with  portions  of  columns,  half-way  to  the 
floor,  fluted  and  scolloped  for  unknown  purposes  ;  while  innumer- 
able spear-shaped  stalactites,  of  different  sizes  and  lengths,  hung 
from  all  parts;  giving  a  beauty  and  splendor  to  the  whole  ap- 
pearance surpassing  description.  Once,  as  the  light  was  borne 
up  along  a  glorious  fairy  stairway,  and  back  behind  solid  pillars 
of  clear  deposits,  and  the  reflected  rays  glanced  through  the 
myriads  of  varying  forms,  the  whole — pillars,  curtains,  pendents, 
and  carved  work,  white  as  snow,  and  translucent  as  crystal — glis- 
tened and  shone,  and  sparkled  with  a  glory  that  surpassed  in 
splendor  all  that  we  had  seen  in  art,  or  read  in  fable.  This  is 
called 

THE   BRIDAL   CHAMBER. 


VIEW   OF   THE   BRIDAL   CHAMBER. 


THE  CAVES  OF  CALAVERAS  COUNTY.  55 

"  Immediately  at  the  back  of  this,  and  connected  with  it  by  dif- 
ferent openings,  is  another  room,  now  called 

MUSICAL   HALL. 

"  It  is  so  called  from  the  fact,  that,  on  one  side,  suspended  from 
a  singular  rock,  that  has  the  character  of  a  musical  sounding- 
board,  hang  a  large  number  of  stalactites,  arranged  in  a  line  very 
large  at  one  end,  and  gradually  increasing  in  size  toward  the 
other,  so  that,  if  with  a  rod  you  strike  the  pendents  properly,  all 
the  musical  tones,  from  a  common  bass  to  a  very  high  key,  can 
be  produced  in  perfection,  ringing  loud  and  clear  through  the 
halls,  as  a  well-toned  instrument. 

"Here  the  present  exploration  of  the  cave  terminates,  at  the 
distance  of  about  one-sixth  of  a  mile  from  the  entrance." 

THE    HOTEL. 

In  1853  it  was  taken  up,  under  a  pre-emption  right,  by  Messrs. 
Magee  and  Angel,  who  erected  a  large  and  substantial  hotel  ad- 
joining the  cave,  for  the  convenience  of  the  public,  at  a  cost  of 
about  four  thousand  five  hundred  dollars.  This  hotel  is  com- 
modious and  comfortable,  and  we  shall  long  remember  the  enjoy- 
ment of  our  visit,  and  the  personal  attention  we  received  from  the 
agreeable  and  enterprising  proprietors. 


VIEW   OF  THE   HOTEL   AT  THE   CAVE. 


56 


SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


VIEW  OP  THE  UPPER  SIDE  OP  UPPER  NATURAL  BRIDGE. 

CHAPTEK  III. 
THE  NATURAL  BRIDGES  OF  CALAVERAS  COUNTY. 

"  Here  the  great  Architect 
Did, with  curious  skill,  a  pile  erect 
Of  carved  marble." 

CAREW. 

THESE  bridges  are  situated  on  Cayote  Creek,  about  half  way  be- 
tween Yalicita  and  McLane's  Ferry,  on  the  Stanislaus  River,  and 
hold  a  high  rank  among  the  varied  natural  objects  of  interest  and 


THE    NATURAL    BRIDGES    OF    CALAVERAS    COUNTY.  5T! 

beauty  abounding  in  California.  The  entire  water  of  Cayote 
Creek  runs  beneath  these  bridges.  The  bold,  rocky,  and  precip- 
itous banks  of  the  stream,  both  above  and  below  the  bridges,  pre- 
sent a  counterpart  of  wild  scenery,  in  perfect  keeping  with 
the  strange  beauty  and  picturesque  grandeur  of  their  interior 
formation. 

THE    UPPER   BRIDGE. 

Approaching  the  upper  bridge  from  the  east,  along  the  stream, 
the  entrance  beneath  presents  the  appearance  of  a  noble  Gothic 
arch  of  massive  stone-work,  thirty-two  feet  in  height  above  the 
water,  and  twenty-five  feet  in  width  at  the  abutments ;  while  the 
rock  and  earth  above,  supported  by  the  arch,  are  thirty  or  more 
feet  in  thickness,  and  overgrown  to  some  extent  with  trees  and 
shrubbery. 

Passing  under  the  arch,  along  the  border  of  the  creek,  the  walls, 
extend  upward  to  an  almost  perfectly  formed  and  pointed  arch, 
and  maintaining  their  width  and  elevation ;  but  with  here  and 
there  an  irregularity,  serving,  however,  to  heighten  the  interest 
of  the  beautiful  scene  presented.  Along  the  roof,  or  arch,  hang 
innumerable  stalactites,  like  opaque  icicles,  but  solid  as  the  lime- 
stone, or  marble,  of  which  they  are  formed. 

As  we  advance,  the  width  of  the  arch  increases  to  nearly  forty 
feet,  and  in  its  height  to  fifty  feet ;  and  here  it  really  seems  as 
though  nature,  in  her  playful  moments,  determined  for  once,  in 
her  own  rude  way,  to  mock  the  more  elaborately-worked  objects 
of  art.  Yet,  as  more  in  accordance  with  reality,  we  think  that 
from  such  fine  natural  formation,  the  noble  Gothic  order  of  archi- 
tecture was  first  suggested. 

Here  the  spacious  roof  (with  a  little  aid  from  the  imagina- 
tion) is  made  to  resemble  an  immense  cathedral,  wTith  its  vaulted 
arches  supported  by  innumerable  columns  along  the  sides,  with 
here  and  there  a  jutting  portion,  as  though  an  attempt  had  been 
made  to  rough-hew  an  altar,  and  corridor  with  massive  steps 
thereto ;  while  stalactites,  springing  from  the  bottom  and  sides, 
wrould  appear  like  waxen  candles,  ready  to  be  lighted,  but  for  the 
muddy  sediment  which  has  formed  upon  them. 


58 


SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


Nor  is  this  all,  for  near  the  foot  of  the  altar  is  a  natural  basin 
of  pure  water,  clear  as  crystal,  as  though  purposely  for  a  baptismal 
font. 

Numerous  other  formations,  some  of  them  peculiarly  grotesque, 
and  others  beautiful,  adorn  the  sides  aiid  roof  of  this  truly  mag- 
nificent subterranean  temple ;  one  of  these,  the  "  rock  cascade,"  is 
a  beautiful  feature,  as  it  bears  a  striking  resemblance  to  that  which 
would  result  from  the  instantaneous  freezing,  to  perfect  solidity, 
of  a  stream  of  water  rolling  down  the  rocky  sides  of  the  cavernous 
formation.  Others  resemble  urns  and  basins;  all  formed  from 
the  action  of,  and  ever  filled  to  their  brims  with,  clear  cold  water, 
as  it  trickles  from  the  rocks  above. 


LOWER  SIDE   OF   UPPER  NATURAL  BRIDGE. 


Approaching  the  lower  section  of  this  immense  arch,  its  form 
becomes  materially  changed,  increasing  in  width,  while  the  roof, 
becoming  more  flattened,  is  brought  down  to  within  five  feet  of 


THE   NATURAL   BRIDGES   OF   CALAVERA8   COUNTY. 


59 


the  water  of  the  creek.    The  entire  distance  through  or  under  this 
vast  natural  bridge  is  about  ninety-five  yards. 

THE   LOWER   BRIDGE. 

I 

Nearly  half  a  mile  down  the  creek  from  the  bridge  described, 
is  another,  with  its  arched  entrance  differing  but  little  from  the 
one  already  described,  in  size,  but  the  form  of  the  arch  is  quite 
different,  being  more  flattened  and  broader  at  the  top.  Advanc- 
ing beneath  its  wide-spreading  arch,  and  passing  another  beauti- 
ful fount  of  water,  issuing  from  a  low,  broad  basin,  wrought  by 
nature's  own  hand,  we  arrive  at  a  point  where  a  roof  and  sup- 
porting walls  present  the  appearance  of  a  magnificent  rotunda, 
or  arched  dome,  sixty  feet  in  width,  but  with  a  height  of  only 
fifteen  feet. 


THE   UPPER   SIDE   OF   LOWER  NATURAL   BRIDGE. 

Here,  too,  are  mimberless  stalactites,  hanging  like  opaque 
icicles  from  above,  while  the  rocky  floor,  where  the  creek  does 
not  receive  the  trickling  water  from  above,  is  studded  thick  with 


60  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

stalagmites  of  curious  and  beautiful  forms.  The  length  of  this 
arch  is  about  seventy  yards. 

These  natural  bridges  give  to  the  locality  an  interest  exceeded 
by  few  in  the  State ;  they  form  the  most  remarkable  natural  tun- 
nels known  in  the  world,  serving  as  they  do  for  the  passage  of  a 
considerable  stream  through  them. 

The  entire  rock  formation  of  the  vicinity  is  limestone,  and  vari- 
ous are  the  conjectures  relative  to  the  first  formation  of  these 
natural  bridges  or  tunnels.  Some  believing  them  to  have  been 
formed  by  the  rocky  deposit  contained  in,  and  precipitated  by, 
the  water  of  countless  springs,  issuing  from  the  banks  of  the 
creek,  that,  gradually  accumulating  and  projecting,  at  length 
united  the  two  sides,  forming  these  great  arched  passages. 
Others  believe  that,  as  these  bridges  are  covered  many  feet  in 
depth  with  rock  and  earth,  these  natural  tunnels  were  but  so 
many  subterranean  passages  or  caverns,  formed,  we  will  not  at- 
tempt to  say  how,  but  as  other  caverns  are,  or  have  been,  in  nearly 
all  limestone  formations ;  for  were  these  subterranean  passages  to 
exist  in  the  adjoining  hills  or  mountains,  with  either  one  or  two 
arches  of  entrance,  they  would  be  called  caverns.  But,  by  what- 
ever freak  of  nature  formed,  they  are  objects  of  peculiar  interest, 
and  will  well  repay  the  summer  rambler,  among  the  mines  and 
mountains,  the  trouble  of  visiting  them.  Our  wonder  is  that  so 
few,  comparatively,  have  visited  these  singular  specimens  of 
nature's  architecture. 


THE   YO-SEMITE   VALLEY. 


.61 


THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


THE  YO-SEMITE  WATERFALL,  TWO  THOUSAND  SIX  HUNDRED  AND  THIRTY-FOUR  FEET  IN  HEIGHT. 

From  a.  Photograph  by  C.  Z.  Weed. 


62  SCENES    IN    CALIFOKN1A. 


CHAPTEE    IY. 

"  Where  rose  the  mountains,  there  to  him  were  friends ; 

"Where  rolled  the  ocean,  thereon  was  his  home; 
"Where  a  blue  sky  and  glowing  clime  extends, 
He  had  the  passion  and  the  power  to  roam; 
The  desert,  forest,  cavern,  breakers'  foam, 

"Were  unto  him  companionship." 

GUlde  Harold. 

"  If  thou  art  worn  and  hard  beset 
"With  sorrows,  that  thou  wouldst  forget: 
If  thou  wouldst  read  a  lesson  that  will  keep 
Thy  heart  from  fainting,  and  thy  soul  from  sleep — 

Go  to  the  woods  and  hills." 

LONGFELLOW. 

THE  reader  knows  as  well  as  we  do,  that,  although  it  may  be 
of  Init  little  consequence  in  point  of  fact,  whether  a  spirit  of  ro- 
mance, the  love  of  the  grand  and  beautiful  in  scenery,  the  sugges- 
tions or  promptings  of  a  fascinating  woman — be  she  friend,  sweet- 
heart, or  wife — the  desire  for  change,  the  want  of  recreation,  or 
the  necessity  of  a  restoration  and  recuperation  of  an  overtasked 
physical  or  mental  organization,  or  both — whatever  may  be  the 
agent  that  first  gives  birth  to  the  wish  for,  or  the  love  of  travel ; 
when  the  mind  is  thoroughly  made  up,  and  the  committee  of  ways 
and  means  reports  itself  financially  prepared  to  undertake  the 
pleasurable  task — in  order  to  enjoy  it  with  luxurious  zest,  we 
must  resolve  upon  four  things :  first,  to  leave  the  "  peck  of  troub- 
les," and  a  few  thrown  in,  entirely  behind  ;  second,  to  Lave  none 
but  good,  suitable,  and  genial-hearted  companions ;  third,  a  suffi- 
cient supply  of  personal  patience,  good  humor,  forbearance,  and 
creature  comforts  for  all  emergencies;  and,/0w£A,  not  to  be  in  a 
hurry.  To  these,  both  one  and  all,  who  have  ever  visited  the  Yo- 
Semite  Valley,  we  know  will  say — Amen. 

As  there  are  but  few  countries  that  possess  more  of  the  beauti- 
ful and  wildly  picturesque  than  California,  it  seems  to  us  a  sin  to 
neglect  to  cultivate  the  knowledge  and  inspiration  of  it.  Especi- 


THE    YO-SEMITE    VALLEY.  63 

ally  as  her  towering  and  pine-covered  mountains ;  her  wide-spread 
valleys,  carpeted  with  flowers ;  her  leaping  waterfalls  ;  her  foam- 
ing cataracts ;  her  rushing  rivers ;  her  placid  lakes ;  her  ever 
green  and  densely  timbered  forests ;  her  gently  rolling  hills,  cov- 
ered with  blooming  shrubs  and  trees,  and  wild  flowers,  give  a 
voiceless  invitation  to  the  traveller  to  look  upon  her  and  admire. 

Whether  one  sits  with  religious  veneration  at  the  foot  of  Mount 
Shasta,  or  cools  himself  in  the  refreshing  shade  of  the  natural 
caves  and  bridges,  or  walks  beneath  the  giant  shadows  of  the 
mammoth  trees,  or  stands  in  awe  looking  upon  the  frowning  and 
pine-covered  heights  of  the  Yo-Semite  Yalley,  he  feels  that 

"  A  thing  of  beauty  is  a  joy  forever," 

and  that  the  Californian's  home  will  compare, in  picturesque  mag- 
nificence, with  that  of  any  other  land. 

In  later  years,  other  employments  and  enjoyments  have  been 
entertained  as  worthy  the  attention  of  the  residents  and  visitors  of 
this  coast,  than  money-making.  Now,  there  are  many  who  throng 
the  highway  of  elevating  and  refining  pleasure,  in  spring  and 
summer,  to  feast  the  eye  and  mind  upon  the  beautiful.  In  the 
hope,  though  humbly,  of  fostering  this  feeling,  we  continue  our 
sketches  of  the  most  remarkable  and  interesting,  among  which 
doubtless  stands  the  great  Yo-Semite  Valley. 

THE    CIRCUMSTANCES    THAT    LED    TO    ITS    DISCOVERY. 

The  early  California  resident  will  remember,  that  during  the 
spring  and  summer  of  1850,  much  dissatisfaction  existed  among 
the  white  settlers  and  miners  on  the  Merced,  San  Joaquin,  Chow- 
chilla,  and  Frezno  Rivers  and  their  tributaries,  on  account  of  the 
frequent  robberies  committed  upon  them  by  the  Chook-chan-cie, 
Po-to-en-cie,  Noot-cho,  Po-ho-ne-chee,  Ho-na-chee,  Ghow-chilla, 
and  other  Indian  tribes  on  the  head  waters  of  those  streams.  The 
frequent  repetition  of  their  predatory  forays  having  been  attended 
with  complete  success,  without  any  attempted  punishment  on  the 
part  of  the  whites,  the  Indians  began  seriously  to  contemplate  the 


64:  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

practicability  of  driving  out  every  white  intruder  upon  their  hunt- 
ing and  fishing  grounds. 

At  this  time,  James  D.  Savage  had  two  stores,  or  trading-posts, 
nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  affected  tribes ;  the  one  on  Little  Mari- 
posa  Creek,  about  twenty  miles  south  of  the  town  of  Mariposa,  and 
near  the  old  stone  fort ;  and  the  other  on  Frezno  River,  about  two 
miles  above  where  John  Hunt's  store  now  is.  Around  these  stores 
those  Indians  who  were  most  friendly,  used  to  congregate ;  from 
them  and  his  two  Indian  wives,  Eekino  and  Homut,  Savage  ascer- 
tained the  state  of  thought  and  feeling  among  them. 

In  order  to  avert  such  a  calamity,  and  without  even  hinting  at 
his  motive,  he  invited  an  Indian  chief,  who  possessed  much  influ- 
ence with  the  Chow-chillas  and  Chook-chan-cies,  named  Jose 
Jerez,  to  accompany  him  and  his  two  squaws  to  San  Francisco ; 
hoping  thereby  to  impress  him  with  the  wonders,  numbers,  and 
power  of  the  whites,  and  through  him  the  various  tribes  who 
were  malcontent.  To  this  Jerez  gladly  assented,  and  they  arrived 
in  San  Francisco  in  time  to  witness  the  first  celebration  of  the 
admission  of  California  into  the  Union,  on  the  29th  of  October, 
1850,*  and  they  put  up  at  the  Revere  House,  then  standing  on 
Montgomery  street. 

During  their  stay  in  San  Francisco,  and  while  Savage  was  pur- 
chasing goods  for  his  stores  in  the  mountains,  Jose  Jerez,  the 
Indian  chief,  became  intoxicated,  and  returned  to  the  hotel  about 
the  same  time  as  Savage,  in  a  state  of  boisterous  and  quarrelsome 
excitement.  In  order  to  prevent  his  making  a  disturbance,  Savage 
shut  him  up  in  his  room,  and  there  endeavored  to  soothe  him,  and 
restrain  his  violence  by  kindly  words ;  but  this  he  resented,  and 
became  not  only  troublesome,  but  very  insulting ;  when,  after  pa- 
tiently bearing  it  as  long  as  he  possibly  could,  at  a  time  of  great 
provocation,  unhappily  he  was  tempted  to  strike  Jerez,  and  followed 
it  up  with  a  severe  scolding.  This  very  much  exasperated  the 

*  The  news  of  the  admission,  by  Congress,  of  California  into  the  Union,  on  the  9th  of 
September,  1850,  was  brought  by  the  mail  steamer  "  Oregon,"  which  arrived  in  the  Bay 
of  San  Francisco  on  the  ]  8th  of  October,  1850,  when  preparations  were  immediately 
commenced  for  a  general  jubilee  throughout  the  State  on  the  29th  of  that  month. 


THE    YO-SEMITE    VALLEY.  65 

Indian,  and  lie  indulged  in  numerous  muttered  threats  of  what 
he  would  do  when  he  went  back  among  his  own  people.  But, 
when  sober,  he  concealed  his  angry  resentment,  and,  Indian-like, 
sullenly  awaited  his  opportunity  for  revenge.  Simple,  and  appar- 
ently small  as  was  this  circumstance,  like  many  others  equally  in- 
significant, it  led  to  very  unfortunate  results ;  for  no  sooner  had 
he  returned  to  his  own  people,  than  he  summoned  a  council  of  the 
chief  men  of  all  the  surrounding  tribes ;  and  from  his  influence 
and  representations  mainly,  steps  were  then  and  there  taken  to 
drive  out  or  kill  all  the  whites,  and  appropriate  all  the  horses, 
mules,  oxen,  and  provisions  they  could  find.* 

Accordingly,  early  one  morning  in  the  ensuing  month  of  Novem- 
ber, the  Indians  entered  Savage's  store  on  the  Frezno,  in  their 
usual  manner,  as  though  on  a  trading  expedition,  when  an  imme- 
diate and  apparently  preconcerted  plan  of  attack  was  made  with 
hatchets,  crow-bars,  and  arrows ;  first  upon  Mr.  Greeley,  who  had 
charge  of  the  store,  and  then  upon  three  other  white  men  named 
Canada,  Stiffner,  and  Brown,  who  were  present.  This  was  made 
so  unexpectedly  as  to  exclude  time  or  opportunity  for  defence,  and 
all  were  killed  except  Brown,  whose  life  was  saved  by  an  Indian 
named  "  Polonio"  (thus  christened  by  the  whites),  jumping  be- 
tween him  and  the  attacking  party,  at  the  risk  of  his  own  personal 
safety,  thus  affording  Brown  a  chance  of  escape,  which  he  made 
the  best  of,  by  running  all  the  way  to  Quartzburg,  at  the  height 
of  his  speed. 

Simultaneously  with  this  attack  on  the  Frezno,  Savage's  other 
store  and  residence  on  the  Mariposa  was  attacked,  during  his 
absence,  by  another  band,  and  his  Indian  wivgs^  carried  off. 
Similar  onslaughts  having  been  made  at  different  points  on  the 
Merced,  San  Joaquin,  Frezno,  and  Chow-chilla  rivers,  Savage 
concluded  that  a  general  Indian  war  was  about  opening,  and  im- 
mediately commenced  raising  a  volunteer  battalion.  At  the  same 
time  a  requisition  for  men,  arms,  ammunition,  and  general  stores, 

*  These  facts  were  communicated  to  us  by  Mr.  J.  M.  Cunningham  (now  in  the  Yo- 
Semite  valley),  who  was  then  engaged  as  clerk  for  Savage,  and  was  present  during  the 
altercation  between  him  and  the  Indian. 

5 


66  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

was  made  upon  the  Governor  of  the  State  (General  John  McDou- 
gal),  which  was  promptly  responded  to  by  him,  and  hostilities 
were  at  once  begun. 

Doctor  L.  H.  Bunnell,  an  eye-witness,  belonging  to  the  Mariposa 
battalion,  has  kindly  favored  us  with  the  following  interesting 
account  of  this  campaign : 

"  Preparations  were  being  made  for  defence,  when  the  news  came 
of  the  sack  of  Savage's  place  on  the  Frezno,  and  of  two  men 
killed,  and  one  wounded ;  and  close  on  this  report  came  another,  of 
the  murder  of  four  men  at  Doctor  Thomas  Payne's  place,  at  the 
Four  Creeks ;  one  of  the  bodies  being  found  skinned.  The  bearer 
of  the  news  was  one  who  had  escaped  the  murderous  assault  of 
the  Indians  by  the  fleetness  of  his  horse,  but  with  the  loss  of  an 
arm,  which  was  amputated,  soon  after  this  event,  by  Doctor 
Leach,  of  the  Frezno. 

"These  occurrences  so  exasperated  the  people,  that  a  company 
was  at  once  raised  and  despatched  to  chastise  the  Indians.  They 
found  and  attacked  a  large  rancheria,  high  up  on  the  Frezno. 
During  the  fight,  Lieutenant  Stein  was  killed,  and  William  Little 
severely  w^ounded.  It  is  not  known  how  many  Indians  were 
killed,  but  the  whites  assert  that  in  that  battle  they  did  nothing  to 
immortalize  themselves  as  Indian  fighters.  Most  of  the  party 
were  very  much  dissatisfied  with  the  result  of  the  fight ;  and 
while  some  left  for  the  settlements,  others  continued  in  search  of 
the  Indians. 

"  In  a  few  days  it  was  ascertained  that  some  four  or  five  hundred 
Indians  had  assembled  on  a  round  mountain,  lying  between  the 
north  branches  of  the  San  Joaquin,  and  that  they  invited  attack. 
They  were  discovered  late  in  the  afternoon ;  but  Captain  Boling 
and  Lieutenant  Chandler  were  disposed  to  have  a  '  brush'  with 
them  that  evening,  if  for  no  other  reason  than  to  study  their  posi- 
tion. Their  object  was  gained,  and  the  captain,  with  his  company, 
was  followed  by  the  Indians  on  his  return  from  reconnoitring, 
and  annoyed  during  the  night. 

"  In  the  morning  volunteers  were  called  for,  to  attack  the  ranch- 
eria. Thirty-six  offered,  and  at  daylight  the  storming  commenced 


THE    YO-SEMITE   VALLEY.  67 

with  such  fury  as  is  seldom  witnessed  in  Indian  warfare.  The 
rancheria  was  fired  in  several  places  at  the  same  time,  in  accord- 
ance with  a  previous  understanding,  and  as  the  Indians  sallied 
from  their  burning  wigwams,  they  were  shot  down,  killed,  or 
wounded.  A  panic  seized  many  of  them,  and  notwithstanding 
the  fear  in  which  their  chief,  4  Jose,'  was  held,  at  such  a  time 
his  authority  was  powerless  to  compel  his  men  to  stand  before  the 
flames,  and  the  exasperated  fury  of  the  whites.  Jose  was  mor- 
tally wounded,  and  twenty-three  of  his  men  were  killed  upon  the 
ground.  Only  one  of  Captain  Boling's  party  (a  negro  who  fought 
valiantly)  was  touched,  and  he  but  slightly.  It  is  not  my  pur- 
pose to  eulogize  any  one,  but  it  is  right  to  say,  that  that  battle 
checked  the  Indians  in  their  career  of  murder  and  robbery,  and 
did  more  to  save  the  blood  of  the  whites,  as  well  as  of  Indians, 
than  any  or  all  other  circumstances  combined. 

uln  a  subsequent  expedition  into  that  region  after  the  organiza- 
tion of  the  battalion,  which  was  in  January,  1851,  the  remains  of 
Jose  were  found  still  burning  among  the  coals  of  the  funeral  pyre. 
The  Indians  fled  at  the  approach  of  the  volunteers,  not  even  firing 
a  gun  or  winging  an  arrow,  in  defence  of  their  once  loved,  but 
dreaded  chief. 

"  It  will  not,  I  think,  be  out  of  place  in  this  connection,  to  repeat 
a  speech  delivered  by  Captain  Boling  on  the  eve  of  the  expected 
battle.  The  captain's  object  was  to  exhort  the  men  to  do  their 
duty.  He  commenced  : — '  Gentlemen — hem — fellow  citizens — 
hem — soldiers — hem — fellow  volunteers — hem' — (tremblingly) — 
and  after  a  long  pause,  he  broke  out  into  a  laugh,  and  said : 
'  Boys,  I  will  only  say  in  conclusion,  that  I  hope  I  will  fight  better 
than  I  speak.' 

"It  was  during  the  occurrence  of  the  events  that  have  been  men- 
tioned above,  that  the  existence  of  an  Indian  stronghold  was 
brought  to  light.  When  the  Indians  were  told  that  they  would 
all  be  killed,  if  they  did  not  make  peace,  they  would  laugh  in  de- 
rision, and  say  that  they  had  many  places  to  flee  to,  where  the 
whites  could  not  follow  them ;  and  one  place  they  had,  which,  if 
the  whites  were  to  enter,  they  would  be  corralled  like  mules  or 


68  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

horses.  After  a  series  of  perplexing  delays,  Major  Savage,  Cap- 
tain Boling,  and  Captain  Dill,  with  two  companies  of  the  battal- 
ion, started  in  search  of  the  Indians  and  their  Gibraltar.  On  the 
south  fork  of  the  Merced,  a  rancheria  was  taken  without  firing  a 
gun ;  the  orders  from  the  Commissioners  being  in  '  no  case  to  shed 
blood  unnecessarily ;'  and  to  the  credit  of  our  race,  it  was  strictly 
obeyed  throughout  the  campaign,  except  in  one  individual  in- 
stance. 

"  As  soon  as  the  prisoners  had  arrived  at  the  rendezvous  designa- 
ted, near  what  is  now  called  Bishop's  Camp,  Pou-watch-ie  and 
Co w-chit-ty  (brothers),  chiefs  of  the  tribes  we  had  taken,  despatched 
runners  to  the  chief  of  the  tribe  living  in  the  then  unknown  val- 
ley, with  orders  from  Major  Savage  for  him  to  bring  in  his  tribe 
to  head-quarters,  or  to  the  rendezvous. 

"Next  morning  the  chief  spoken  of,  Ten-ie-ya,  came  in  alone, 
and  stated  that  his  people  would  be  in  during  the  following  day, 
and  that  they  now  desired  peace.  The  time  passed  for  their  arri- 
val. After  waiting  another  day,  and  no  certainty  of  their  coming 
manifested,  early  on  the  following  morning  volunteers  were 
called  for  to  storm  their  stronghold. 

"  The  place  where  the  Indians  were  supposed  to  be  living,  was 
depicted  in  no  very  favorable  terms ;  but  so  anxious  had  the  men 
become,  that  more  offered  than  were  desired  by  Captain  Boling 
for  the  expedition.  To  decide  who  should  go,  the  captain  paced 
off  one  hundred  yards,  and  told  the  volunteers  that  he  wanted 
men  fleet  of  foot,  and  with  powers  of  endurance,  and  their  fitness 
could  be  demonstrated  by  a  race.  By  this  means  he  selected, 
without  offence,  the  men  he  desired.  Some,  in  their  anxiety  to  go, 
ran  bare-footed  in  the  snow. 

"All  being  ready,  Ten-ie-ya  took  the  lead  as  guide,  very  much 
against  his  inclination ;  and  we  commenced  our  march  to  the  then 
unknown  and  unnamed  valley.  Savage  said  he  had  been  there, 
but  not  by  the  route  that  we  were  taking.  About  half  way  to  the 
valley,  which  proved  about  fifteen  miles  from  the  rendezvous,  on 
the  south  fork,  seventy-two  Indians,  women,  and  children,  were 
met  coming  in  as  promised  by  Ten-ie-ya. 


THE    YO-SEMITE    VALLEY.  69 

"They  gave  as  an  excuse  for  their  delay  the  great  depth  of  the 
snow,  which  in  places  was  over  eight  feet  deep.  Ten-ie-ya  tried 
to  convince  Major  Savage  that  there  were  no  more  Indians  in  the 
valley,  but  the  whole  command  cried  out  as  with  one  voice,  *  Let's 
go  on.'  The  major  was  willing  to  indulge  the  men  in  their  desire 
to  learn  the  truth  of  the  exaggerated  reports  the  Indians  had 
given  of  the  country,  and  we  moved  on.  Ten-ie-ya  was  allowed 
to  return  with  his  people  to  the  rendezvous,  sending  in  his  stead  a 
young  Indian  as  guide. 

"Upon  the  arrival  of  the  party  in  the  valley, .the  young  Indian 
manifested  a  great  deal  of  uneasiness  ;  he  said  it  would  be  impos- 
sible to  cross  the  river  that  night,  and  was  not  certain  that  it  could 
be  crossed  in  the  morning.  It  was  evident  that  he  had  some 
object  in  view ;  but  the  volunteers  were  obliged  to  content  them- 
selves for  the  night,  resolved  to  be  up  and  looking  out  for  them- 
selves early  in  the  morning,  for  a  crossing,  or  way  over  the  rocks 
and  through  the  jungle  into  which  they  had  been  led.  Daylight 
appeared,  and  with  it  was  found  a  ford.  And  such  a  ford !  It 
furnished  in  copious  abundance,  water  for  more  than  one  plunge 
bath,  and  that,  too,  to  some  who  were  no  admirers  of  hydropathy  ; 
or,  judging  from  their  appearance,  had  never  realized  any  of  its 
bounties. 

"  In  passing  up  the  valley  on  the  north  side,  it  was  soon  very  evi- 
dent that  some  of  the  wigwams  had  been  occupied  the  night 
before  ;  and  hence  the  anxiety  of  the  young  Indian,  lest  the  occu- 
pants should  be  surprised.  The  valley  was  scoured  in  all  direc- 
tions, but  not  an  Indian  could  be  found.  At  length,  hid  among 
the  rocks,  the  writer  discovered  an  old  woman ;  so  old,  that  when 
Ten-ie-ya  was  interrogated  in  regard  to  her  age,  he  with  a  smile, 
said,  that  'when  she  was  a  child,  the  mountains  were  hills.'  The 
old  creature  was  provided  with  fire  and  food,  and  allowed  to 
remain. 

"  It  having  snowed  during  the  night,  and  continuing  to  snow  in 
the  morning,  the  major  ordered  the  return  of  the  command,  lest 
it  should  be  hemmed  in  by  snow.  This  was  in  March,  1851. 
Ten-ie-ya  and  others  of  his  tribe  asserted  most  positively  that  we 


TO  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

were  the  first  white  men  ever  in  the  valley.  The  writer  asked 
Major  Savage,  '  Have  you  not  been  in  the  valley  before  ?'  he  an- 
swered, '  No,  never ;  I  have  been  mistaken ;  it  was  in  a  valley 
below  this  (since  known  as  Cascade  Yalley),  two  and  a  half  miles 
below  the  Yo-Semite.' 

"  On  our  return  to  the  rendezvous  where  the  prisoners  had  been 
assembled,  we  started  for  the  Commissioners'  camp  on  the  Frezno. 
On  our  way  in,  about  a  hundred  more  Indians  gave  themselves 
up  to  Captain  Dill's  company.  When  within  about  fifteen  miles 
of  the  Commissioners'  camp,  nine  men  only  being  left  in  charge, 
owing  to  an  absolute  want  of  provisions,  the  Indians  fled — fright- 
ened, as  it  afterward  appeared,  by  the  stories  told  them  by  the 
Chow-chillas.  Only  one  of  their  number  was  left ;  he  had  eaten 
venison  with  such  a  relish  at  the  camp-fire  of  the  whites  as  to  un- 
fit him  for  active  duties ;  and  on  his  awaking  and  finding  himself 
alone  among  the  whites,  he  thought  his  doom  sealed.  He  was 
told  that  he  had  nothing  to  fear,  and  soon  became  reconciled. 

"  Upon  the  arrival,  at  the  Commissioners'  camp,  of  Captain  Bol- 
ing  and  his  nine  men,  Von-ches  ter  (!),  a  chief,  was  despatched  to 
find  and  bring  in  the  frightened  Indians.  In  a  few  days  lie  suc- 
ceeded in  bringing  in  about  a  hundred ;  but  Ten-ie-ya  with  his 
people  said  he  would  not  return. 

"After  a  trip  to  the  San  Joaquin,  which  before  has  been  alluded 
to,  it  was  resolved  to  make  another  trip  to  the  Yo-Semite  Yalley, 
there  establish  head-quarters,  and  remain  until  we  had  thoroughly 
learned  the  country,  and  taken,  or  driven  out,  every  Indian  in  it. 
On  our  arrival  in  the  valley,  a  short  distance  above  the  prominent 
bluff  known  as  El  Capitan,  or  as  the  Indians  call  it,  Tu-toch-ah- 
nu-lah,  which  signifies  in  their  language,  The  Captain,  five  Indians 
were  seen  and  heard  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  taunting 
us.  They  evidently  thought,  we  could  not  cross,  as  the  river  was 
so  very  high  (this  was  in  the  early  part  of  May),  but  they  were 
mistaken,  as  six  of  us  plunged  our  animals  in  the  stream,  swam 
across,  and  drove  the  Indians  in  among  the  rocks  which  obstruct 
the  passage  of  animals  on  the  north  side  of  the  valley ;  Captain 
Boling  in  the  mean  time  crossing  above  the  rocks,  succeeded  in 


THE    YO-SEMITE    VALLEY. 


71 


TU-TOCK-AH-NU-LAH,    THREE    THOUSAND    THREE    HUNDRED    FEET    ABOVE    THE    VALLEY. 

From  a  Photograph  ~by  C.  L.  Weed. 

taking  them  all  prisoners.  Three  of  these  were  kept  as  hostages, 
while  two  were  sent  to  Ten-ie-ya  with  an  order  for  his  immediate 
presence.  Of  the  three  kept  as  hostages,  two  were  sons  of  Ten-ie- 
ya,  while  the  two  sent  with  a  message,  were  a  son  and  son-in- 
law. 

"  The  writer  was  despatched  by  Captain  Boling  to  guard  them 
against  the  fire  of  any  scouting  party  they  might  encounter  in  the 
valley,  and  succeeded  in  saving  them  from  an  exasperated  individual 
who  was  met  returning  with  C.  H.  Spencer,  Esq.  (now  of  Chicago), 


72 


SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


who  had  been  wounded  while  tracing  out  the  hiding-places  of  the 
Indians.  When  the  two  sent  for  Ten-ie-ya  left,  they  said  he  would 
be  in  by  ten  o'clock  the  next  morning,  and  that  he  would  not  have 
ran  away  but  for  the  stories  told  by  the  Chow-chillas.  On  the 
morning  of  the  day  Ten-ie-ya  was  expected,  one  of  the  three  In- 
dians escaped,  having  deceived  the  guard. 

"  Soon  after,  the  two  remaining  were  discovered  untying  them- 
selves. Two  men,  instead  of  informing  Captain  Boling,  that  he 
might  make  more  secure  their  fastenings,  placed  themselves  near 
their  arms  to  watch  their  movements,  in  order,  if  possible,  to  dis- 
tinguish themselves.  One  was  gratified ;  for  as  soon  as  the  Indians 
bounded  to  their  feet,  freed  from  their  fetters,  they  started  to  run ; 
Ten-ie-ya's  youngest  son  was  shot  dead — the  other  escaped. 

"  While  this  was  occurring,  a  party  was  reconnoitring  the  scene 
of  Spencer's  disaster,  and  while  there,  discovered  Ten-ie-ya  perched 
upon  a  rock  overlooking  the  valley.  He  was  engaged  in  conver- 
sation, while  a  party  cut  off  his  retreat  and  secured  him  as  a  pris- 
oner. Upon  his  entrance  into  the  camp  of  the  volunteers,  the 
first  object  that  met  his  gaze  was  the  dead  body  of  his  son.  Not 
a  word  did  he  speak,  but  the  workings  of  his  soul  were  frightfully 
manifested  in  the  deep  and  silent  gloom  that  overspread  his  coun- 
tenance. For  a  time  he  was  left  to  himself;  but  after  a  while 
Captain  Boling  explained  to  him  the  occurrence,  and  expressed 
his  regrets  that  it  should  have  so  happened,  and  ordered  a  change 
of  camp,  to  enable  the  friends  of  the  dead  boy  to  go  unmolested 
and  remove  the  body. 

"  After  remaining  inactive  a  day  or  two,  hoping  that  the  Indians 
might  come  in,  a  '  scout'  was  made  in  the  direction  of  the  Tuo- 
lumne.  Only  one  Indian  was  seen,  and  he  evidently  had  been  de- 
tailed to  watch  our  movements.  Yarious  scouts'  being  made  to 
little  purpose,  it  was  concluded  to  go  as  far  up  the  river  as  possi- 
ble, or  as  far  as  the  Indians  could  be  traced. 

"  The  command  felt  more  confidence  in  this  expedition,  from  the 
fact  that  Co w-chit-ty  had  arrived  with  a  few  of  the  tribe  mentioned 
before  as  having  been  taken  on  the  south  fork  of  the  Merced. 
They  knew  the  country  well,  and  although  their  language  differed 


THE   YO-SEMITE   VALLEY,  73 

a  little  from  that  of  the  Yo-Semite  tribe,  yet,  by  means  of  a  mis- 
sion Indian,  who  spoke  Spanish  and  the  various  Indian  tongues 
of  this  region,  Ten-ie-ya  was  told  if  he  called  in  his  people  they 
were  confident  that  we  would  not  hurt  them.  Apparently  he  was 
satisfied,  and  promised  to  bring  them  in,  and  at  night,  when  they 
were  supposed  to  hover  around  our  camp,  he  would  call  upon  them 
to  come  in  ;  but  no  Indians  came. 

""While  waiting  here  for  provisions,  the  chief  became  tired  of  his 
food,  said  it  was  the  season  for  grass  and  clover,  and  that  it  was 
tantalizing  for  him  to  be  in  sight  of  such  abundance,  and  not  be 
permitted  to  taste  it.  It  was  interpreted  to  Captain  Boling,  when 
he  good  humoredly  said  that  he  should  have  a  ton  if  he  desired  it. 
Mr.  Cameron  (now  of  Los  Angeles)  attached  a  rope  to  the  old 
man's  body,  and  led  him  out  to  graze !  A  wonderful  improve- 
ment took  place  in  his  condition,  and  in  a  few  days  he  looked  like 
a  new  man. 

"  With  returning  health  and  strength  came  the  desire  for  liberty, 
and  it  was  manifested  one  evening,  when  Mr.  Cameron  was  off  his 
guard,  by  his  endeavor  to  escape.  Mr.  Cameron,  however,  caught 
him  at  the  water's  edge,  as  he  was  about  to  swim  the  river.  Then, 
in  the  fury  inspired  by  his  failure  to  escape,  he  cried :  '  Kill  me 
if  you  like ;  but  if  you  do,  my  voice  shall  be  heard  at  night,  call- 
ing upon  my  people  to  revenge  me,  in  louder  tones  than  you  have 
ever  made  it  ring.'  (It  was  the  custom  of  Captain  Boling  to  ask 
him  to  call  for  his  people.) 

"  Soon  after  this  occurrence,  it  being  manifest  to  all  that  the  old 
man  had  no  intention  of  calling  in  his  people,  and  the  provisions 
arriving,  we  commenced  our  march  to  the  head  waters  of  the  Py- 
we-ah,  or  branch  of  the  Merced,  in  the  valley  on  which  is  situated 
Mirror  Lake,  and  fifteen  miles  above  the  valley  lake  Ten-ie-ya. 
At  a  rancheria  on  the  shore  of  this  lake,  we  found  thirty-five 
Indians,  whom  we  took  prisoners.  With  this  expedition  Captain 
Boling  took  Ten-ie-ya,  hoping  to  make  him  useful  as  a  guide ;  but 
if  Cow-chit-ty,  who  discovered  the  rancheria,  had  not  been  with 
us,  we  probably  would  have  gone  back  without  seeing  an  Indian. 
In  taking  this  rancheria  no  Indians  were  killed,  but  it  was  a  death- 


74:  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

blow  to  their  hopes  of  holding  out  longer  against  the  whites,  for 
when  asked  if  they  were  willing  to  go  in  and  live  peaceably,  the 
chief  at  the  rancheria  (Ten-ie-ya  was  not  allowed  to  speak)  stretch- 
ing his  hand  out  and  over  the  country,  exclaimed :  '  Not  only 
willing,  but  anxious,  for  where  can  we  go  that  the  Americans  do 
not  follow  us  ?' 

"  It  was  evident  that  they  had  not  much  expected  us  to  follow 
them  to  so  retired  a  place ;  and  surrounded  as  they  were  by  snow, 
it  was  impossible  for  them  to  flee,  and  take  with  them  their 
women  and  children. 

"  One  of  the  children,  a  boy  five  or  six  years  old,  was  discovered 
naked,  climbing  up  a  smooth  granite  slope  that  rises  from  the  lake 
on  the  north  side.  At  first  he  was  thought  to  be  a  coon  or  a 
fisher,  for  it  was  not  thought  possible  for  any  human  being  to 
climb  up  such  a  slope.  The  mystery  was  soon  solved  by  an  Indian 
who  went  out  to  him,  coaxed  him  down  from  his  perilous  position, 
and  brought  him  into  camp.  He  was  a  bright  boy,  and  Captain 
Boling  adopted  him,  calling  him  Reub,  after  Lieutenant  Reuben 
Chandler,  who  was,  and  is,  a  great  favorite  with  the  volunteers. 
He  was  sent  to  school  at  Stockton,1  and  made  rapid  progress.  To 
give  him  advantages  that  he  could  not  obtain  in  Mariposa  county 
at  that  time,  he  was  placed  in  charge  of  Colonel  Lane,  Captain 
Boling' s  brother-in-law.  To  illustrate  the  folly,  as  a  general  thing, 
of  attempting  to  civilize  his  race,  he  ran  away,  taking  with  him 
two  very  valuable  horses  belonging  to  his  patron. 

"  We  encamped  on  the  shores  of  the  lake  one  night.  Sleep  was 
prevented  by  the  excessive  cold,  so  in  the  gray  of  morning  we 
started  with  our  prisoners  on  our  return  to  the  valley.  This  was 
about  the  5th  of  June ;  we  had  taken  at  the  lake  four  of  old  Ten- 
ie-ya's  wives  and  all  of  his  family,  except  those  who  had  fled  to 
the  Mono  country,  through  the  pass  which  we  saw  while  011  this 
expedition ;  and,  being  satisfied  that  all  had  been  done  that  could 
be,  and  not  a  fresh  Indian  sign  to  be  seen  in  the  country,  we  were 
ordered  to  the  Frezno.  The  battalion  was  soon  after  disbanded, 
and  nothing  more  was  heard  of  the  turbulent  Ten-ie-ya  and  his 
band  of  pillager  Indians  (who  had  been  allowed  once  more  to  go 


THE   YOSEMITE   VALLEY.  5 

back  to  the  valley  upon  the  promise  of  good  behavior),  until  the 
report  came  of  their  attack  upon  a  party  of  whites  who  visited 
the  valley  in  1852,  from  Coarse-Gold  Gulch,  Frezno  county. 
Two  men  of  the  party,  Rose  and  Shurbon,  were  killed,  and  a 
man  named  Tudor  wounded. 

"  In  June,  Lieutenant  Moore,  accompanied  by  one  of  Major  Sav- 
age's men,  A.  A.  Gray,  and  some  other  volunteers,  visited  the  valley 
with  a  company  of  United  States  troops,  for  the  purpose  of  chas- 
tising the  murderers.  Five  of  them  were  found  and  immediately 
executed ;  the  wearing  apparel  of  the  murdered  men  being  found 
upon  them.  This  may  shock  the  sensibilities  of  some,  but  it  is 
conceded  that  it  was  necessary  in  order  to  put  a  quietus  upon  the 
murderous  propensities  of  this  lawless  band,  who  were  outcasts 
from  the  various  tribes.  After  the  murder,  Ten-ie-ya,  to  escape 
the  wrath  he  knew  awaited  him,  fled  to  the  Monos,  on  the  eastern 
side  of  the  Sierra.  In  the  summer  of  1853,  they  returned  to  the 
valley. 

"  As  a  reward  for  the  hospitality  shown  them,  they  stole  a 
lot  of  horses  from  the  Monos,  and  ran  them  into  the  Yo-Semite. 
They  were  allowed  to  enjoy  their  plunder  but  a  short  time  before 
the  Monos  came  down  upon  them  like  a  whirlwind.  Ten-ie-ya 
was  surprised  in  his  wigwam,  and,  instead  of  dying  the  very  poetic 
death  of  a  broken  heart,  as  was  once  stated,  he  died  of  a  broken 
head,  crushed  by  stones  in  the  hands  of  an  infuriated  and  wronged 
Mono  chief.  In  this  fight,  all  of  the  Yo-Semite  tribe,  except 
eight  braves  and  a  few  old  men  and  women,  were  killed  or  taken 
prisoners  (the  women  only  taken  as  prisoners),  and  thus,  as  a  tribe, 
they  became  extinct. 

"  It  is  proper  to  say,  what  I  have  before  stated,  that  the  Yo-Sem- 
ite Indians  were  a  composite  race,  consisting  of  the  disaffected  of 
the  various  tribes  from  the  Tuolumne  to  King's  River,  and  hence 
the  difficulty  in  our  understanding  of  the  name,  Yo-Semite ;  but 
that  name,  upon  the  writer's  suggestion,  was  finally  approved  and 
applied  to  the  valley,  by  vote  of  the  volunteers  who  visited  it. 
Whether  it  was  a  compromise  among  the  Indians,  as  well  as  with 
us,  it  will  now  be  difficult  to  ascertain.  The  name  is  now  well 


76  .SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

established,  and  it  is  that  by  which  the  few  remaining  Indians 
below  the  valley  call  it. 

"  Having  been  in  every  expedition  to  the  valley  made  by  volun- 
teers, and  since  that  time  assisted  George  H.  Peterson  (Fremont's 
engineer)  in  his  surveys,  the  writer,  at  the  risk  of  appearing  ego- 
tistical, claims  that  he  had  superior  advantages  for  obtaining  cor- 
rect information,  more  especially  as,  in  the  first  two  expeditions, 
Ten-ie-ya  was  placed  under  his  especial  charge,  and  he  acted  as 
interpreter  to  Captain  Boling. 

"  It  is  acknowledged  that  Ah-wah-ne  is  the  old  Indian  name  for 
the  valley,  and  that  Ah-wah-ne-chee  is  the  name  of  its  original 
occupants ;  but  as  this  was  discovered  by  the  writer  long  after  he 
had  named  the  valley,  and  as  it  was  the  wish  of  every  volunteer 
with  whom  he  conversed  that  the  name  Yo-Semite  be  retained, 
he  said  very  little  about  it.  He  will  only  say,  in  conclusion,  that 
the  principal  facts  are  before  the  public,  and  that  it  is  for  them  to 
decide  whether  they  will  retain  the  name  Yo-Semite,  or  have 
some  other.  L.  H.  BUNNELL. 

"  We,  the  undersigned,  having  been  members  of  the  same  com- 
pany, and  through  most  of  the  scenes  depicted  by  Doctor  Bun- 
nell,  have  no  hesitation  in  saying,  that  the  article  above  is  correct. 

"  JAMES  M.  ROANE, 
"GEO.  H.  CRENSHAW." 

We  cheerfully  give  place  to  the  above  communication,  that  the 
public  may  learn  how  and  by  whom  this  remarkable  valley  was 
first  visited  and  named ;  and,  although  we  have  differed  with  the 
wrriter  and  others  concerning  the  name  given,  as  explained  in  sev- 
eral articles  that  have  appeared  at  different  times  in  the  several 
newspapers  of  the  day,  in  which  Yo-ham-i-te  was  preferred,  yet, 
as  Mr.  Bunnell  was  among  the  first  to  visit  the  valley,  we  most 
willingly  accord  to  him  the  right  of  giving  it  whatever  name  he 
pleases.  At  the  same  time,  we  will  here  enter  the  following  rea- 
sons for  calling  it  Yo-ham-i-te,  the  name  by  which  we  have  been 
accustomed  to  speak  of  it. 

In  the  summer  of  1855,  we  engaged  Thomas  Ayres,   a  well- 


THE   YO-SEMITE   VALLEY. 


known  artist  of  San  Francisco  (who  unfortunately  lost  his  life  by 
the  wreck  of  the  schooner  Laura  Bevan),  to  accompany  us  on  a 
sketching  tour  to  the  Calaveras  Big  Trees  and  the  valley  above 
alluded  to.  Mr.  W.  Millard  and  A.  Stair  were  also  of  the  party. 

When  we  arrived  tit  Mariposa,  we  found  that  the  existence 
even  of  such  a  valley  was  almost  unknown  among  a  large  ma- 
jority of  the  people  residing  there.  We  made  many  inquiries 
respecting  it,  and  how  to  find  our  way  there ;  but,  although  one 
referred  us  to  another  who  had  been  there  after  Indians  in  1851, 
and  he  again  referred  us  to  some  one  else,  we  could  not  find  a 
single  person  who  could  direct  us.  In  this  dilemma  we  met  Cap- 
tain Boling,  the.  gentleman  spoken  of  above,  who,  although  desir- 
ous of  assisting  us,  confessed  that  it  was  so  long  since  he  was 
there,  that  he  could  not  give  us  any  satisfactory  directions. 
"  But,"  said  he,  "  if  I  were  you,  I  would  go  down  to  John  Hunt's 
store,  on  the  Frezno,  and  he  will  provide  you  with  a  couple  of 
good  Indian  guides  from  the  very  tribe  that  occupied  that  valley." 

We  adopted  this  plan,  although  it  took  us  twenty-five  or  thirty 
miles  out  of  our  way ;  deeming  such  a  step  the  most  prudent 
under  the  circumstances.  Up  to  this  time  we  had  never  heard  or 
known  any  other  name  than  "  Yo-Semite." 

Mr.  Hunt  very  kindly  acceded  to  our  request,  and  gave  us  two 
of  the  most  intelligent  and  trustworthy  Indians  that  he  had,  and 
the  following  day  we  set  out  for  the  valley. 

Toward  night  on  the  first  day,  we  inquired  of  Kossum,  one  of 
our  guides,  how  far  he  thought  it  might  possibly  be  to  the  Yo- 
Semite  Yalley,  when  he  looked  at  us  earnestly,  and  said  :  "  No 
Yo-Semite!  Yo-Hamite;  sabe,  Yo-Ham-i-te.f"  In  this  way  were 
we  corrected  not  less  than  thirty-five  or  forty  times  on  our  way 
thither,  by  these  Indians.  After  our  return  to  San  .Francisco,  we 
made  arrangements  for  publishing  a  large  lithograph  of  the  great 
falls ;  but,  before  attaching  the  name  to  the  valley  and  falls  for 
the  public  eye,  we  wrote  to  Mr.  Hunt,  requesting  him  to  go  to 
the  most  intelligent  of  those  Indians,  and  .from  them  ascertain  the 
exact  pronunciation  of  the  name  given  to  that  valley.  After  at- 
tending to  the  request,  he  wrote  us  that  "  the  correct  pronuncia- 


78  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

tion  was  Yo-Ham-i-te,  or  Yo-Hem-i-te"  And,  while  we  most 
willingly  acquiesce  in  the  name  of  Yo-Semite,  for  the  reasons 
above  stated,  as  neither  that  nor  Yo-Ham-i-te,-  but  Ah-wah-ne,  is 
said  to  be  the  pure  Indian  name,  we  confess  that  our  preferences 
still  are  in  favor  of  the  pure  Indian  being  given ;  but  until  that  is 
determined  upon  (which  we  do  not  ever  expect  to  see  done  now), 
Yo-Semite,  we  think,  has  the  preference.  Had  we  before  known 
that  Doctor  Bunnell  and  his  party  were  the  first  whites  who  ever 
entered  the  valley  (although  we  have  the  honor  of  being  the  first, 
in  later  years,  to  visit  it  and  call  public  attention  to  it\  we  should 
long  ago  have  submitted  to  the  name  Doctor  Bunnell  had  given  it, 
as  the  discoverer  of  the  valley. 

At  the  time  we  visited  it  there  was  scarcely  the  outline  of  an 
Indian  trail  visible,  either  upon  the  way  or  in  the  valley,  as  all  Were 
overgrown  with  grass  or  weeds,  or  covered  with  old  leaves ;  and 
nothing  could  be  found  there  but  the  bleaching  bones  of  animals 
that  had  been  slaughtered,  and  an  old  acorn  post  or  two,  on  which 
a  supply  of  edibles  had  once  been  stored  bj  the  Indian  residents. 

Having  thus  explained  the  incidents  and  accidents  connected 
with  the  early  history  of  this  remarkable  place,  we  invite  the  cour- 
teous reader  to  give  us  the  pleasure  of  his  company  thither,  as  we 
propose,  with  his  kind  permission,  to  act  as  "  guide  "  for  the  occa- 
sion. But, 

BEFORE    STARTING    ON    THE    TRIP, 

Let  us  premise  that  almost  every  stranger  who  arrives  on  the  Pa- 
cific Coast  is  frequently  "  at  his  wit's  ends  "  to  know  how  or  where 
to  obtain  information  upon  the  following  subjects  : — 

1st.  The  direction  and  distances  to  the  Yo-Semite  Valley,  and 
to  the  different  groves  of  mammoth  trees. 

2d.  The  easiest,  cheapest,  most  expeditious,  and  most  picturesque 
routes  to  take,  with  the  probable  cost  of  transportation  for  himself 
and  effects  to  each  and  all  of  these  places. 

3d.  The  best  kind  and  probable  amount  of  personal  baggage 
necessary. 

4th.  The  best  general  course  for  him  to  follow  to  secure  safety, 


THE   YO-SEMITE   VALLEY.  79 

comfort,  economy,  and  a  comprehensive  knowledge  of  the  most 
remarkable  points  of  interest. 

Now,  in  order  to  make  every  tourist  familiar  with  these  facts,  we 
must  presume — a  very  impertinent  piece  of  presumption,  no  doubt, 
in  many  instances — that  they  are  not  already  in  his  possession. 
This  point  conceded,  by  way  of  commencement,  we  will  place  before 
him  the  following  outline  map  of  the  different  routes  and  points 
mentioned,  so  that  he  may  see  at  a  glance  how  they  can  be  reached. 
With  the  map  before  you,  a  clear,  general  idea  is  obtainable. 

STOCKTON,  you  will  perceive,  is  the  main  starting-point.  If, 
therefore,  as  we  have  before  suggested,  you  are  on  the  great  Over- 
land Railroad,  and  do  not  wish  to  go  out  of  your  way  before  visit- 
ing Yo-Semite,  or  the  Big  Tree  Groves,  you  had  better  leave  the 
train  at  Stockton. 

From  here  there  are  three  main  routes :  First,  via  Copperopolis 
and  Murphy's  Camp  to  the  Calaveras  grove  of  mammoth  trees ; 
thence  back  to  Murphy's,  through  Sonora,  Chinese  Camp,  and  Big 
Oak  Flat,  to  Yo-Semite.  Second,  via  Knight's  Ferry,  Chinese 
Camp,  and  Big  Oak  Flat,  to  Yo-Semite.  Third,  by  Hornitos, 
Mariposa,  and  the  Mariposa  grove  of  mammoth  trees  to  Yo-Semite. 
One  of  the  main  travelled  roads  to  Yo-Semite  was  formerly  via  Coul- 
terville,  Bower  Cave,  and  Blacks  to  Yo-Semite.  This  recently 
has  been,  we  regret  to  say,  but  little  travelled.  A  new  road  now  in 
progress  may  revive  its  old  prosperity.  It  has  our  best  wishes. 

We  now  propose  to  give  the  following— 

TABLES   OF   DISTANCES   TO    YO-SEMITE   BY   THE   DIFFERENT    ROUTES. 

From  Stockton,  via  the  Calaveras  Grove,  to  Jo- Semite. 

Miles.      Total. 

f  Copperopolis 36 

Murphy's  Camp. 20  56 

Calaveras  Grove 15  f  1 

Back  to  Murphy's  Camp 15  86 

Sonora 14  100 

Chinese  Camp 10*  110£ 

Bi-  Oak  Flat 122^ 

Tuolumne  South  Grove  Big  Trees 

I  Tamarack  Flat 5*  157 ' 

By  Saddle  Train.— Hutchings'  Hotel,  in  Yo-Semite 11 


80 


SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


THE   YO8EMITE   VALLEY.  81 


From  Stockton,  via  Knighfs  Ferry  (or  Copperopolis),  and  Chinese  Camp,  to  To- Semite. 

Miles.  Total. 

f  Knight's  Ferry  (or  Copperopolis) 36 

Chinese  Camp 15  51 

Jacksonville 4  55 

Keith's  Orchard  and  Vineyard 1£  56£ 

Steven's  Bar  Ferry 1  57-J 

Newhall  &  Culbertson's  Vineyard 2£  60 

Kirkwood's 2  62 

•3       Big  Oak  Flat 1  63 

-    First  Garrote 2  65 

^      Second  Garrote 2  67 

Sprague's  Ranch 5£  72£ 

Hamilton's  Ranch 3£  76 

Hardin's  Mill. 7  83 

Bronson's  Meadows 6  89 

Tuolumne  South  Grove  Big  Trees 3  J  92£ 

Crane  Flat f  93£ 

I  Tamarack  Flat 4|  98 

f  Top  of  Yo-Semite  Mountain 3  101 

i  Bottom  of  Yo-Semite  Mountain 2{  103£ 

|  Green  Meadow  Spring 1  104J 

-{  Opposite  Bridal  Veil  Fall f  105 

j  Tu-tock-ah-nu-la  (El  Capitan) 1±  106± 

,      Sentinel  Hotel 2\  108£ 

1    [  Hutchings' Yo-Semite  Hotel i  109 

From  Stockton,  via  Mariposa,  and  the  Mariposa  Mammoth  Tree  Grove,  to  To- Semite. 

Miles.  Total. 

Salter's  (Tuolumne  River) 45 

Snelling's  (Merced  River) 13  58 

Murray's  Ferry  (Merced  River) 4  62 

Hornitos 8  70 

Bear  Valley 9  79 

Mariposa 13  92 

MormonBar 1|  931 

Spring  House If  95£ 

Bolton's 4f  lOOi 

Thompson's 2  J  102-J 

White  &  Hatch's H  103| 

Little  Cut-Off H  105}- 

Forks  of  Road  (take  left  hand) H  106f 


^ 


Is 


82  SCENES   IN    CALIFORNIA. 

Lard's  Ranch  (Hogan's) ; 1       107* 

South  Fork  Chowchilla 2       1 09|- 

Upper  Crossing  Chowchilla 1       HOf 

Summit  Spring f     11 1£ 

Big  Creek  Bridge 2|     113£ 

Clark's  Ranch  (South  Fork  Merced) H     H5| 

Mariposa  Grove  of  Mammoth  Trees,  and  back  to  Clark's. .          ]3       128| 

Camp  Placido I 3f     132J 

Cold  Water  Creek ]£     133f 

Alder  Creek ±     134 

Grass  Creek £     134| 

Empire  Camp 1£     136£ 

Owl  Camp \     136f 

Green  Spring  Flat 2       138* 

W       Westfall's  Meadow f     139* 

Mountain  View  House 1       140f 

Highest  Point  on  Trail 1£     142| 

Last  Meadow $     143£ 

Inspiration  Point £     144 

Mount  Beatitude  (turning-off  place) £     144£ 

Hermitage H    145f 

Fern  Spring  (foot  of  mountain) 2       147f 

Bridal  Veil  Fall 1       148f 

Cathedral  Spires 1       149| 

Sentinel  Hotel 2f     152 

Hutchings'  Yo-Semite  Hotel |     152^ 

Miles. 
By  the  above  tables  it  will  be  observed  that  the  route  from  Stockton,  via 

the  Calaveras  Big  Tree  Grove,  to  Yo-Semite  is 168£ 

— 157^  by  coach,  and  11  on  horseback. 

Knight's  Ferry  (or  Copperopolis)  and  Chinese  Camp,  to  Yo-Semite 109 

— 98  by  coach  and  11  on  horseback. 

Mariposa  and  Mariposa  Big  Tree  Grove,  to  Yo-Semite 152£ 

— 106f  by  coach,  and  45f  on  horseback.* 


THE    EASIEST.    CHEAPEST,    AND    MOST    EXPEDITIOUS    ROUTE 


And  one  of  the  most  picturesque  in  scenery,  is,  doubtless,  that  from 
Stockton,  by  Knight's  Ferry  (or  if  the  Stockton  and  Copperopolis 
railroad  has  sufficiently  progressed  to  allow  it,  via  Copperopolis), 
to  Chinese  Camp,  Big  Oak  Flat,  Garrote,  the  Tuolumne  South 

*  A  turnpike  road  company  has  been  formed,  for  the  purpose  of  constructing  a  road 
to  Clark's,  and  the  Mariposa  Big  Tree  Grove ;  so  that  during  the  summer  of  1870  the 
distance,  by  this  route,  on  horseback,  may  be  very  materially  decreased. 


THE   TO-SEMITE    VALLEY.  83 

Grove  of  Mammoth  Trees,  and  Tamarack  Flat,  to  Yo-Semite.  The 
entire  distance  by  this  route  being  only  109  miles — ninety-eight 
of  which  are  by  coach, — and  the  total  fare  from  Stockton  to 
Hutchings',  in  Yo-Semite  Valley,  not  exceeding  $20.  It  should 
also  be  remembered  by  those  whose  time  is  very  limited,  that  by 
this  route  the  tourist  passes  directly  through  the  Tuolumne  South 
Grove  of  Mammoth  Trees,  several  of  which  are  remarkably  fine 
specimens  of  the  genus.  Through,  by  stage  and  saddle,  in  two 
days. 

Those  persons  who  are  unaccustomed  to  the  fatigue  of  travel, 
and  to  whom  comfort  is  as  much  of  an  object  as  sight-seeing, 
should  not  attempt  the  through  trip  in  less  than  three  days, — 
reaching  Chinese  Camp  only  the  first  day.  Next  in  importance, 
the  route, 


claims  our  attention,  not  only  on  account  of  its  being  the  first 
grove  discovered,  and  the  most  celebrated,  or  from  the  wonderful 
size,  height,  and  gracefulness  of  its  trees, — and  these  are  remarka- 
ble,— but  for  its  close  proximity  to  the  finest  grove  of  sequoias  yet 
known  in  California.  [For  description  of  these  groves  see  Chapter 
I.]  By  reference  to  the  map  and  table  of  distances,  page  80,  it 
will  be  seen  that  our  course  lies  through  Copperopolis  to  Murphy's, 
distance  fifty-six  miles,  and  the  fare  $8  ;  to  Mammoth  Tree  Grove 
and  back,  thirty  miles,  fare  $4 ;  Murphy's  to  Sonora,  fourteen 
miles,  fare  $2,50  ;  Sonora  to  Chinese  Camp,  ten  and  a-half  miles, 
fare  $1.50;  Chinese  to  Yo-Semite,  fifty-eight  miles,  fare  $13. 
Total  distance  168-J-  miles, — 15T|-  of  which  are  by  coach, — and  the 
total  fare  for  the  round  trip,  $29.  Time  required  to  make  the  journey 
comfortably  will  be  about  as  follows  :  first  day,  to  Murphy's  ;  second 
day,  to  and  about  the  grove  ;  third  day,  return  to  Murphy's,  thence 
to  Sonora  and  to  Chinese  Camp  ;  fourth  day,  to  Tamarack  Flat ; 
fifth,  arrive  at  Hutchings',  in  Yo-Semite,  about  noon.  One  day 
should  be  added  to  this  if  a  visit  is  paid  to  the  large  "  South 
Grove,"  near  to  that  of  Calaveras. 


84  SCENES    IN   CALIFORNIA. 

KOUTE    VIA   MARIPOSA,  AND  THE    MARIPOSA    GROVE   OF    BIG    TREES. 

Owing  to  the  magnificence  and  number  of  the  big  trees  in  the 
Mariposa  groves,  and  the  impressive  views  obtained  of  Yo-Semite 
from  Inspiration  Point  and  Mount  Beatitude,  many  prefer  this 
route  to  either  of  the  others.  There  can  be  no  question  that  the 
scenes  from  the  points  named  are  unequalled ;  but  whether  they 
are  to  be  enjoyed  on  entering  the  valley,  or  by  a  special  visit  from 
the  valley,  or  after  becoming  familiar  with  the  different  objects  of 
interest  in  and  around  the  valley,  and  on  leaving  it,  must  be  deter- 
mined by  the  taste  and  wishes  of  the  visitor.  Those  who  prefer 
to  enter  this  way,  by  consulting  the  map  and  table  of  distances, 
page  80,  will  find  that,  after  leaving  Stockton,  their  course  lies 
through  the  singular  old  mining  town  of  Hornitos  to  Bear  Yalley, 
across  the  celebrated  Mariposa  or  Fremont  estate  to  Mariposa  ; 
distance  ninety-two  miles,  fare  $10.  Here  saddle  horses  and 
guides  have  generally  been  obtained  at  the  livery  stables  on  the 
following  terms:  horses  each  per  day,  $2.50;  guide  per  day,  $3  ; 
board  for  guide,  $3  ;  horse  for  guide,  $2.50, — making  the  cost  per 
day  for  each  guide,  $8.50,  exclusive  of  horse  feed.  It  is  only  just, 
however,  to  say  that  but  little  horse  feed  need  be  purchased  until 
late  in  the  summer  and  fall,  as  grass  is  tolerably  abundant.  Other 
arrangements  may  be  made  during  the  season  for  making  the  round 
trip  from  and  to  Stockton  for  about  $50  or  $55,  but  what  they  will 
be  we  are  now  unable  to  say. 

From  Mariposa  the  road  lies  past  the  Mariposa  Company's 
quartz  mill,  and  over  a  pleasant,  hilly  country,  dotted  with  oaks 
and  pines,  and  numerous  kinds  of  shrubs,  to  White  &  Hatch's,  one 
of  the  neatest  and  most  agreeable  stopping-places  to  be  found  on 
either  of  the  routes.  Past  De  Long's  orchard  to  the  foot  of  the 
Chowchilla  Mountain ;  thence  by  a  long  and  fatiguing  climb  (all 
mountain  climbing  generally  partakes  of  this  quality)  to  a  delicious 
spring  near  the  top  of  the  divide,  and  which  is  nearly  6,000  feet 
above  the  sea,  and  some  2,800  feet  above  White  &  Hatch's. 
Thence  the  trail  winds  down  a  magnificently  timbered  and  easy 
grade  to  Clark's  ranch,  on  the  South  Fork  of  the  Merced.  Clark's 


THE    YO-SEMITE    VALLEY  ,  85 

is  about  4,180  feet  above  sea  level.  Here  also  very  agreeable 
quarters  will  be  found :  and  Mr.  Clark,  one  of  the  old  pioneers  of 
this  region,  will  take  real  pride  and  pleasure  in  looking  out  for 
your  creature  comforts,  and  by  giving  you  every  information  in  his 
power. 

The  road  to  the  Mariposa  Grove  of  Big  Trees,  here  diverges  from 
that  for  Yo-Semite,  and  is  up  a  long  and  gradual  ascent  to  an  alti- 
tude above  Clark's  of  some  1,500  feet.  [For  description  of  this 
grove,  see  Chapter  Y.] 

From  Clark's  the  trail  continues  up  the  side  of  the  mountain  in 
a  dense  growth  of  shrubbery  nearly  to  the  top  of  the  divide,  where 
it  enters  and  continues  through  some  of  the  finest  stretches  of 
forest,  composed  mainly  of  the  yellow  pine  (Pinus  ponderosa\  the 
sugar  pine  (Pinus  lambertiana),  and  the  cedar  (Libocedrus  decur- 
rens\  to  be  found  in  any  portion  of  the  world.  Then  for  a  few 
miles  it  runs  across  green  patches  of  meadow,  or  over  low  ridges 
and  spurs,  whence  it  threads  among  numerous  clumps  of  silver  firs 
(Picea  grandis  and  Picea  amabalis),  and  groves  of  "  tamaracks" 
(Pinus  contorta);  and  as  you  ride  along,  glimpses  of. the  distant 
sierras  are  caught,  upon  whose  lofty  peaks,  or  in  whose  shadowy 
and  sheltered  gorges,  snow  lies  eternally  slumbering.  You  are  now 
for  the  most  part,  about  7,000  feet  above  the  sea.  The  highest 
portions  of  the  trail  being  about  7,500  feet. 

As  you  now  descend,  the  dark  purple  haze  at  your  right  reveals 
a  near  approach  to  the  goal  of  your  anticipations, — the  Mecca  of 
this  pilgrimage.  Almost  before  the  gratifying  fact  is  realized,  you 
have  reached  "  Inspiration  Point,"  and  are  standing  out  upon  a 
bold  promontory  of  rock,  and  with  feelings  all  your  own,  are 
looking  over  the  precipice  of  nearly  three  thousand  feet,  into  the 
deep  abyss.  This  is  the  first  view  obtained  of  Yo-Semite  Yalley. 
Mr.  Sidney  Andrews,  in  his  correspondence  to  the  Boston  Adver- 
tiser, thus  writes  of  this  glorious  scene* : — 

"  Suddenly  as  I  rode  along,  I  heard  a  shout.  I  knew  the 
valley  had  revealed  itcelf  to  those  who  were  at  the  front  of  the  line. 
I  turned  my  head  away — I  couldn't  look  until  I  had  tied  my  horse. 
Then  I  walked  down  to  the  ledge  and  crawled  out  upon  the  over- 


S6  „  SCENES   IN    CALIFORNIA. 

hanging  rocks.  I  believe  some  men  walk  out  there, — it's  a  dull 
clod  of  a  soul  who  can  do  that.  In  all  my  life,  let  it  lead  me  where 
it  may,  I  think  I  shall  see  nothing  else  so  grand,  so  awful,  so  sub- 
lime, so  beautiful, — beautiful  with  a  beauty  not  of  this  earth, — as 
that  Vision  of  the  Yalley.  It  was  only  yesterday  evening, — I  can- 
not write  of  it  yet.  How  long  I  sat  there  on  the  rocks  I  never 
shall  know.  I  brought  the  picture  away  with  me  ;  I  have  only  to 
shut  my  eyes  and  I  see  it  as  I  saw  it  in  that  hour  of  hours.  I 
think  I  shall  see  nothing  else  so  sublime  and  beautiful,  till,  hap- 
pily, I  stand  within  the  gates  of  the  Heavenly  City." 

As  you  are  now  some  eight  and  a  half  miles  from  the  hotel,  how- 
ever enchanting  this  spot  may  be,  you  must  not  linger  here  too 
long ;  but,  bringing  lunch,  after  you  are  rested,  pay  it  another  visit 
from  the  valley,  and  make  a  day  of  it.  Besides,  a  really  finer  view 
than  this  is  obtained  a  short  distance  below,  on  "  Mount  Beati- 
tude," from  whence  a  more  comprehensive  picture  of  the  valley  is 
realized.  To  see  this,  however,  will  require  a  short  detour  from 
the  trail,  and  a  little  more  time. 

Presuming  that  you  could  not  resist  the  temptation  of  witness- 
ing the  imposing  view  from  Mount  Beatitude — and  knowing  the 
impossibility  of  even  approximating  justice  in  any  written  descrip- 
tion— you  will  think  of  it  as  you  descend  the  mountain,  and  dream 
of  it  both  by  day  and  by  night.  Presently  you  come  to  the  "  Hermit- 
age," a  hollow  sugar-pine  tree  that  was  the  home  of  a  solitary 
woodsman  for  nearly  three  months.  One  night,  when  the  wind 
blew  unpleasantly  strong,  he  concluded  that  u  discretion  was  the 
better  part  of  valor,"  and  vacated  his  nature-built  cabin  until  the 
storm  had  subsided. 

Fine  views  of  the  valley  are  obtained  at  almost  every  turning 
point  and,  while  assisting  to  distract  your  attention  from  the  long 
and  somewhat  difficult  descent,  reward  you  for  the  trouble  of 
coming. 

At  the  foot  of  the  mountain  you  arrive  at  "  Fern  Spring."  The 
cooling,  bower-like  shade  of  the  trees  and  shrubs,  and  the  clear 
and  sparkling  brightness  of  the  water,  bubbling  up  among  rocks 
and  green-matted  foliage,  united  to  its  almost  icy  coldness,  may, 


THE   YOSEMITE   VALLEY.  87 

after  your  journey  down,  especially  if  both  you  and  the  weather 
are  warm,  tempt  an  indulgence  in  too  hearty  a  draught.  This, 
however,  should  be  studiously  resisted  for  the  first  day  or  two,  as 
persons  unaccustomed  to  the  pure  cold  water  of  Yo-Semite  are  in 
danger  of  being  uncomfortably  troubled  with  diarrhoea. 

Now  as  you  ride  across  the  Bridal  Yeil  meadow,  with  the  u  Bri- 
dal Yeil  Fall "  in  full  sight ;  rainbow  hues  are  toying  and  playing 
with  its  beautiful  rockets,  and  mists,  and  sprays  ;  but,  knowing  that 
a  full  afternoon  can  be  well  spent  in  such  glorious  companionship; 
and  that  the  setting  sun,  with  scenes  of  interest  on  either  hand  to 
be  viewed  as  you  ride  up  the  valley,  admonish  not  to  linger  here 
too  long — you  had  better  not  tarry.  Besides,  by  this  time  you 
will  begin  to  feel  that  a  refreshing  glass  of  good  California  wine, 
a  bath,  dinner,  and  such  other  acceptable  comforts  as  may  be  found 
at  Hutchings'  are  not  to  be  despised.  Then,  after  you  have  rested 
and  are  comforted,  sally  out  at  your  pleasure. 

The  time  required  to  make  this  trip  by  Mariposa  comfortably 
will  be  about  as  follows  :  First  day,  to  Hornitos  ;  second  day,  to 
Mariposa  (or  to  White  and  Hatch's,  llf  miles  farther),  and  in 
obtaining  outfits  of  horses,  etc. ;  third  day,  to  Clark's  ;  fourth  day, 
to  the  Big  Tree  Grove  and  back  ;  fifth  day,  to  Hutchings'.  Those 
in  a  hurry  can  go  to  White  &  Hatch's  the  second  day,  to  Clark's 
and  the  Big  Tree  Grove  the  third  day,  and  to  the  Yo-Semite  on 
the  fourth. 

THE  KINDS  AND  AMOUNT  OF  PERSONAL  BAGGAGE  TO  BE  TAKEN. 

This,  you  will  allow,  is  a  difficult  matter  for  us  to  determine, 
and  one  that  will  require  your  generous  forbearance  and  assist- 
ance. These  questions  settled,  we  will  suppose  that  your  good 
sense  (no  flattery  is  intended)  will  suggest  at  the  start  that  all 
Saratoga  trunks  should  be  eschewed — reven  if  their  dimensions  do 
not  exceed  those  of  an  ordinary  cottage  or  two.  If  you  have  one 
of  moderate  pretensions  be  sure  and  carefully  examine  its  contents 
with  the  view  of  laying  aside  every  thing  that  you  know  will  not  be 
wanted.  Next,  turn  over  your  effects  again,  and  reject  every  thing 
you  feel  that  you  could  conscientiously  do  without.  The  reason 


88  SCENES   IN   CALIFORNIA. 

for  all  this  will  be  apparent  when  we  inform  you  that  after  the 
coach  (and  its  capaciousness)  is  left  behind,  every  article  you  take 
will  have  to  be  carried  on  your  saddle  animal,  or  on  a  pack-mule, 
for  the  balance  of  the  way. 

Now,  if  health  and  comfort  are  studied,  gentlemen  will  see  that 
they  have  one  extra  of  each  of  the  following  articles  :  One  pair  of 
good  serviceable  boots  (not  necessarily  very  heavy)  that  have  been 
broken  to  the  feet ;  one  complete  outfit  of  under-clothing ;  one 
woollen  over-shirt ;  three  or  four  pairs  of  hose  (woollen  should  be 
preferred) ;  one  pair  of  strong  pants  (old  ones,  if  not  too  easily  torn, 
would  be  the  best,  as  they  will  be  good  for  nothing  after  returning)  ; 
pocket-handkerchiefs,  and  a  few  other  necessary  articles.  Ladies 
would  do  well  by  taking  some  of  the  hints  thrown  out  to  gentlemen — 
in  providing  themselves  with  woollen  dresses  of  suitable  strength, 
color,  and  texture,  made  in  the  Bloomer  or  other  similar  style,  as 
such  would  be  found  to  possess  both  comfort  and  adaptability ;  a 
durable  linen  riding-habit ;  boots  that  were  made  for  wear  more 
than  for  ornament ;  a  warm  shawl ;  and  by  making  choice  of  such 
other  articles  that  will  suit  their  wants,  wishes,  and  tastes,  with- 
out further  enumeration  from  us. 

At  the  best  it  will  be  difficult  to  give  advice  that  will  accord 
with  every  variety  of  condition  and  of  circumstance.  By  way 
of  illustration  we  may  mention  that  an  estimable  and  intel- 
ligent lady  correspondent  of  a  San  Francisco  paper  visited 
To- Semite  early  in  May,  and  finding  the  weather  cool,  advised 
every  lady  to  go  there  warmly  clad.  Other  ladies,  later  in  the 
season,  taking  that  advice,  and  finding  the  climate  pleasantly 
warm,  remarked,  "  How  could  Mrs.  —  —  recommend  us  to  come 
in  such  warm  clothing  ?  when  we  return  we  will  tell  all  our  lady 
friends  to  choose  none  but  light  summer  dresses  !  " 

Trunks  can  be  taken  wherever  coaches  can  go.  Beyond  that, 
as  they  have  to  be  packed  upon  mules,  the  expenses  of  transpor- 
tation are  necessarily  increased.  It  is  true  that  they  can  be  safely 
left  at  the  end  of  the  stage  route,  but  this  would  suggest  the 
necessity  of  returning  the  same  way.  That  necessity  should 
always  be  avoided.  It  is  much  more  satisfactory  to  be  left  fully  at 


THE   TO-SEMITE   VALLEY.  89 

liberty  to  make  your  own  choice  ;  and,  where  time  and  conveni- 
ence will  permit,  to  go  in  one  way  and  out  the  other,  so  that  the 
scenes  upon  one  road,  however  beautiful,  may  afford  a  pleasing 
contrast  to  those  of  the  other.  Our  advice,  therefore,  would  be  to 
leave  your  trunk  in  Stockton  (unless  you  intend  to  spend  some 
weeks  or  months  in  Yo-Semite),  so  that  after  you  return  from  your 
ride  in  the  mountains  you  may  be  refreshed  by  a  bath  and 
change  of  clothing,  before  taking  the  steamboat  or  cars  for  San 
Francisco  or  Sacramento. 

Supposing,  then,  that  you  have  concluded  to  leave  your  trunks 
behind,  as  a  portion  of  the  journey  is  on  horseback,  the  most  con- 
venient receptacle  for  clothing  will  be  a  pair  of  saddle-bags. 
Next  to  these,  a  flexible  valise  is  best.  Gentlemen  in  a  hurry 
will  sometimes  strap  up  all  the  clothing  they  expect  to  need  in  an 
overcoat,  and  tie  it  at  the  back  of  their  saddle.  Do  not,  how- 
ever, suppose  that  it  is  impossible  to  pack  in  almost  any  thing, 
from  a  cooking  range  to  a  six-story  house — in  pieces, — but  such 
things  cost  money.  These  remarks  are  only  intended  for  those 
who  wish  to  be  economical  in  their  expenditures.  (i  Nuf  ced." 

THE    MOST    ACCEPTABLE    COURSE    FOR   A    STRANGER   TO    PURSUE, 

It  is  presumed,  would  be  that  which  will  obtain  for  him  the 
greatest  amount  of  enjoyment  and  information  for  the  smallest 
amount  of  money.  To  secure  these,  experience  has  taught  us  that 
one  cannot  be  too  explicit  in  his  directions.  Therefore,  the  motive 
which  prompts  the  following  details,  let  us  hope,  will  be  considered 
a  sufficient  apology  for  their  introduction. 

HOTEL   CHARGES   IN   SAN   FRANCISCO. 

San  Francisco  will  doubtless  be  the  central  point  of  attraction. 
There,  the  new  "  Grand  Hotel," — leased  by  the  former  proprietor 
of  the  "  Lick  House,"— the  "  Cosmopolitan,"  and  the  "  Occidental," 
are  the  principal  hotels.  Their  charges  are,  we  believe,  $3  per  day. 
Next  come  the  "  Kuss  House,"  "  Brooklyn  Hotel,"  and  others, 
whose  charges  are  from  $2  to  $2.50  per  day.  All  prices  in  Califor- 
nia, remember,  are  upon  a  gold  basis.  These  hotels  can  all  be 


90  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

reached  by  street-car,  fare  6J-  cents,  by  making  your  destination 
known  to  the  conductor.  Cars  are  near  to  most  of  the  wharves 
and  railway  termini.  The  obliging  book-keepers  and  clerks  at  all 
first-class  hotels  will  give  you  reliable  information  concerning  the 
city  and  State. 

HOTEL   CHARGES   WHEN   TRAVELLING   IN   CALIFORNIA. 

Meals  and  beds,  when  travelling  in  California,  will  be  from  50  cts. 
to  $1  each — averaging  about  $3  per  day.  At  Hutchings',  in  Yo- 
Semite,  hotel  charges  are  $3  50  per  day,  $20  per  week,  or  $75  per 
month.  At  the  Calaveras  Grove  of  Mammoth  Trees,  and  at 
Clark's, — the  nearest  house  to  the  Mariposa  Grove, — the  prices  are 
about  the  same.  Perhaps  it  will  not  be  far  out  of  place  here  to  say 
that  meals,  on  the  great  overland  railway,  are  from  75  cts.  (in  cur- 
rency) to  $1.25,  and  will  average  about  $1  each.  From  Chicago  to 
Omaha,  a  berth  in  a  sleeping-car  is  $3  per  night ;  from  Omaha  to 
Ogden,  $4  per  night,  including  its  use  in  the  day-time ;  from  Ogden 
to  San  Francisco,  $3  per  day  and  night. 

If  you  contemplate  a  visit  to  Yo-Semite,  or  the  Big  Trees, — 
and  but  few  would  go  to  California,  and  have  the  courage  on  their 
return  to  say  that  they  had  not  been  there, — send  for  the  authorized 
Route  Agent,  Edward  Harrison,  Esq.,  of  the  stage  and  saddle  train 
companies,"*  and  have  a  good  talk  and  a  clear  understanding  with 
him  about  every  thing.  Know  exactly  how  much  will  be  his  full 
charge  to  convey  you  from  San  Francisco  or  Stockton  to  Yo- 
Semite,  and  back  direct ;  how  much  if  you  wish  to  go  by  either 
grove  of  mammoth  trees,  and  back.  See,  also,  that  the  sum  named 
includes  guides,  and  saddle-horses  in  the  valley,  so  that  there  shall 
be  no  annoying  "extras."  Once  fully  satisfied  that  every  thing  is 
"  on  the  square  "  (as  we  say  in  California),  pay  him  your  fare,  and 
receive  from  him  a  properly  certified  set  of  coupons  for  the  trip. 

*  "Where  this  gentlemen  can  be  found  or  addressed,  is  generally  published  in  some 
..of  the  newspapers. 


THE  YOSEMITE    VALLEY.  91 


PRELIMINARY    PREPARATIONS. 

One  word  more  before  starting.  Have  you  been  accustomed  to 
horseback  riding  ?  If  you  have  not,  you  will  add  very  much  to 
the  enjoyment  of  the  trip  by  practising  a  little  every  day  on  some 
reliable  animal ;  as  experience  in  this  gives  a  fearlessness  of  action 
that  adds  much  to  the  pleasure  of  such  a  delightful  ride. 


Supposing  that  the  reader  has  already  formed  one  of  our  party 
as  far  as  Stockton  from  San  Francisco,  in  Chap.  I. ;  and  supposing, 
also,  that  he  will  give  us  the  pleasure  of  his  company  on  the  shortest 
and  easiest  route  to  Yo-Semite,  and  especially  as  it  is  also  one  of  the 
most  picturesque, — besides  being  the  freest  from  dust, — with  the 
assurance,  also,  that  the  scenery  on  the  others  is  substantially 
very  similar,  we  will  choose  that,  via  Big  Oak  Mat. 

It  is  nearly  six  o'clock  A.  M.,  and  time  to  be  off.  The  most  to  be 
desired  of  all  places  on  a  stage,  is  the  one  known  as  the  "  box-seat'7 
This  is  with  the  coachman :  for  if  he  is  intelligent,  and  in  a  good 
humor,  he  can  tell  you  of  all  the  sights  by  the  way,  with  the  per- 
sonal history  of  nearly  every  man  and  woman  you  may  meet,  the 
qualities  and  a points"  of  every  horse  upon  the  road,  with  all  the 
adventures,  jokes,  and  other  good  things  he  has  seen  and  heard, 
during  his  thousand  and  one  trips,  under  all  kinds  of  circum- 
stances, and  in  all  sorts  of  weather.  In  short,  he  is  a  living  road 
encyclopaedia,  to  be  read  and  studied  at  intervals  by  the  occupant 
of  "  the  box-seat." 

You  saw  that  look  and  motion  of  the  coachman's  head  ?  That 
was  at  once  a  sign  of  recognition  and  of  invitation  to  the  privileged 
seat  at  his  side,  as  we  are  old  acquaintances.  But,  as  you  are  a 
stranger,  and  as  every  excursion  of  real  pleasure — like  the  happiest 
experiences  of  social  life — become  dependent  to  a  very  great  ex- 
tent upon  little  courtesies  and  kindnesses  that  cost  nothing,  we 
wish  to  set  a  good  example  to  the  party,  and  to  you,  by  foregoing 
selfishness,  and  by  trying  to  secure  that  seat  for  you.  No  thanks  are 
needed,  as  every  pleasure  is  doubled  by  being  shared.  Now,  sup- 


92  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

posing  that  you  are  the  occupant  of  the  "  box-seat,"  \ve  will  make 
one  suggestion — invite  the  driver  to  accept  one  of  your  best  cigars, 
and  as  its  smoke  and  fragrance  are  rising  on  the  air,  you  will 
gradually  become  better  acquainted,  learning  his  secrets  on  the  out- 
side, while  we  are  talking  to  those  within.  Now, 

OFF   FOR  THE    MOUNTAINS. 

Leaving  Stockton,  then,  we  journey  over  a  level  and  oak-studded 
plain  to  the  "  Twelve  Mile  House,"  where  we  change  horses  and 
take  breakfast,  which  generally  occupies  fifteen  to  twenty  min- 
utes. Here  we  change  horses.  The  country  then  gradually  be- 
comes gently  rolling,  and,  although  covered  with  wild  flowers,  is 
almost  barren  of  trees  or  shrubs.  We  again  change  horses  at  the 
Twenty-five  Mile  House,  At  noon  we  reach  Knight's  Ferry,  a 
small  settlement  on  the  Stanislaus  River,  where  a  group  of  sturdy 
miners  probably  is  congregated  in  front  of  the  hotel,  and  a  bell  an- 
nounces that  dinner  is  ready. 

This  was  once  one  of  the  most  flourishing  of  placer  mining  towns, 
but  now,  like  many  similar  ones  in  the  mining  districts,  its  pros- 
perity is  on  the  wane.  Being  the  seat  of  government  for  Stanis- 
laus County,  and  surrounded  by  numerous  ranches  and  vineyards, 
there  is  considerable  life  still  manifest.  Miners  here  frequently 
used  to  find  garnets  and  opals  in  their  mining  sluices  when  clean- 
ing them  out  at  night  A  fine  stratum  of  yellow  ochre,  several 
feet  in  thickness,  lies  on  the  south  bank  of  the  river ;  also  large 
masses  of  crude  iron,  in  blocks  containing  scores  of  cubic  feet  each. 

After  taking  refreshments,  with  loss  of  our  appetites  and  forty- 
five  minutes,  we  not  only  again  change  horses,  but  find  ourselves 
and  our  baggage  changed  to  another  stage — as  the  newest  and  best- 
looking  ones  seem  to  be  retained  for  the  comparatively  level  and 
city  end  of  the  route,  while  the  dust-covered  and  paint-worn  are 
used  for  the  mountains. 

Shortly  after  leaving  Knight's  Ferry,  we  cross  the  "  Stanislaus 
Bridge  " — a  very  substantial  structure — and  wind  to  the  left,  over 
a  spur  of  the  celebrated  "  Table  Mountain."  This  formation  is 
very  remarkable,  from  its  being  apparently  level  for  some  fifteen 


THE    YO-SEMITE    VALLEY.  93 

miles,  and  composed  of  volcanic  scoria  or  trap.  Beneath  it,  and 
in  the  bed  of  a  now  extinct  river,  very  rich  gravel  diggings  were 
discovered,  which  made  several  men  wealthy.  At  different  points 
upon  onr  winding  way,  as  we  thread  our  course  among  the  oak- 
studded  hills,  we  obtain  glimpses  of  this  singular  deposit. 

About  the  middle  of  the  afternoon  we  arrive  at  Chinese  Camp, 
where,  if  we  are  wise  and  have  time,  we  shall  remain  for  the  night, 
and  place  ourselves  and  our  comforts  in  care  of  Count  Solinsky, 
the  obliging  landlord  of  the  "  Garrett  House,"  who  will,  if  we  wish 
it,  cheerfully  show  us  the  interesting  sights  in  and  around  the 
town.  Whether  we  go  or  stay,  our  bags  and  baggage  are  here 
removed  from  the  Sonora  stage,  and,  if  we  want  to  continue  our 
journey  without  delay,  will  be  promptly  placed  upon  the  one  bound 
for  Garrote.  In  any  event,  let  us  see  that  our  luggage  is  in  our 
own  safe-keeping  before  the  stage  leaves  the  door.  A  little  trouble 
now  will  save  us  from  much  annoyance  in  the  future. 

FKOM  CHINESE   CAMP   TO    TAMARACK   FLAT. 

An  early  start — preceded  by  a  good  cup  of  coffee — on  a  sum- 
mer's morning,  will  prove  to  us  the  pleasantest  portion  of  the  day. 
The  deliciously  bracing  "Champagne  atmosphere"  (as  a  lady 
friend  of  ours  so  naively  expresses  it)  is  quaffed  with  a  delight  and 
zest  that  makes  itself  felt  through  every  portion  of  the  human 
frame.  Still  on,  on  we  roll,  now  over  gently  swelling  hills,  now 
along  shallow  ravines,  then  down  a  well-graded  road  to  the  Tuo- 
lumne  River  and  Jacksonville.  This  village  is  supported  mainly 
by  river  mining  and  the  placer  diggings  of  Wood's  Creek.  Within 
a  stone's  throw  is  one  of  the  earliest  fruit  gardens  in  the  State.  A 
short  drive  above  this  will  bring  us  to  a  shady  flower-covered 
retreat,  known  as  "  Keith's  Orchard  and  Yineyard."  Here  fruits 
of  every  rare  variety  known  in  the  temperate  zone  can  be  found, 
and  of  the  finest  quality.  Let  us  hope  that  we  are  just  in  their 
season.  The  grapes  will  be  found  especially  large  and  fine  in 
flavor.  Let  us  not  pass  without  testing  their  excellence,  not  for- 
getting the  old  adage,  that  fruit  is  gold  in  the  morning,  silver  at 
noon,  and  lead  at  night. 


94  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

About  a  mile  above  Keith's  we  cross  the  Tuolumne  River  on  the 
Stevens'  Bar  Ferry,  and  drive  up  Moccasin  Creek  some  two  and  a 
half  miles  to  "Newhall  and  Culbertson's  Vineyard."  This  is 
another  of  those  delightful  wayside  tarrying-places  where  fruit  of 
the  finest  quality  is  in  abundance,  and  where  we  can  obtain  a 
glass  of  the  most  delicious  white  wine  to  be  had  in  any  portion  of 
the  State.  It  is  but  simple  justice  to  these  people  to  say  that  their 
charges  are  not  only  very  reasonable,  but  always  low. 

For  the  next  two  miles  our  road  is  on  the  side  of  a  mountain, 
covered  with  a  dense  mass  of  shrubbery,  among  which  will  be 
found  the  manzanita,  buckeye,  mountain  mahogany,  pipe  wood, 
Indian  arrow,  granite  wood,  and  numerous  other  kinds — all  of 
which,  if  cut  in  the  proper  season,  November  to  March,  are  hard 
and  useful  furniture  woods,  susceptible  of  a  very  high  polish. 

You  will  think  this  quite  a  mountain  to  climb — and  it  is.  It 
will  be  well,  however,  to  bear  in  mind,  that,  before  we  commence 
the  descent  toward  Yo-Semite,  we  have  to  attain  an  altitude  of 
nearly  seven  thousand  feet ;  we  must,  therefore,  commence  ascend- 
ing somewhere,  and  why  not  here?  It  will  be  a  task  upon  our 
patience,  perhaps,  but  as  it  seems  to  be  a  trial  of  both  wind  and 
muscle  to  the  horses,  we  may  surely  console  ourselves  with  the 
thought  that  we  can  stand  it  if  they  can.  Up,  up  we  toil,  many 
of  us  on  foot,  perhaps,  in  order  to  ease  the  faithful  and  apparently 
overtasked  animals,  which  puff  and  snort  like  miniature  locomo- 
tives, while  the  sweat  drops  from  them  i'n  abundance. 

One  quiet  evening  in  the  height  of  summer,  after  the  sun  had 
set,  and  the  deep  purple  atmosphere — almost  peculiar  to  California 
— had  changed  to  sombre  gray,  we  (the  passengers)  were  wending 
our  way  up  the  mountain,  on  foot,  and  a  little  ahead  of  the  stage, 
when  a  rustling  sound,  just  below  the  road,  startled  us  with  its 
singular  and  suspicious  distinctness,  and  dark,  shadowy  forms 
were  gently  threading  their  way  among  the  bushes.  Our  hearts 
beat  uncomfortably  fast,  and  we  instinctively  felt  for  our  revolvers, 
but  they  were  in  the  stage.  It  should  be  told  that  at  this  time 
numerous  robberies  had  been  committed  upon  the  highway  by 
Joaquin,  Tom  Bell,  and  their  respective  gangs.  "  We  are  caught," 


THE    YO-SEMITE    VALLEY.  95 

whispered  one.  "  They  will  rob,  and  perhaps  murder  us,"  sug- 
gested another.  "  We  can  die  but  once,"  bravely  retorted  a  third. 
"  Let  us  all  keep  close  together,"  pantomimed  a  fourth.  "  "Who 
goes  there?  "  loudly  challenged  a  fifth.  "A  friend,"  exclaimed 
the  ringleader  of  a  party  of  miners  who  were  climbing  the  steep 
sides  of  the  mountain  just  at  our  side,  with  their  blankets  at  their 
backs,  all  walking  to  town,  and  who  had  caused  all  our  alarm ; 
and  as  he  and  his  companions  quietly  seated  themselves  by  the  road- 
side, they  commenced  wiping  oif  the  perspiration,  and  gave  us  cor- 
dial salutation  in  good  plain  English.  "  Why,  bless  us,  these  men, 
who  have  almost  frightened  us  out  of  our  seven  senses,  are  fellow- 
travellers  !  "  "  Couldn't  you  see  that  ? "  now  valorously  inquired 
one  whose  knees  had  knocked  uncontrollably  together  with  fear 
only  a  few'  moments  before.  At  this  we  all  laughed ;  and  the 
coachman,  having  stopped  his  stage,  said,  "  Get  in,  gentlemen," 
and  we  had  enough  to  talk  and  joke  about  until  we  reached  Kirk- 
wood's. 

This  brings  us  to  the  last-named  place.  Here  we  stop  to  water 
the  horses  and  change  the  mails  and  passengers  to  the  Coul- 
terville-bound  stage — this  being  the  turning-off  point  for  the 
latter-named  town.  We  have  by  this  time  probably  received 
sundry  admonitions  from  within  that  the  comforting  morning  meal 
has  not,  as  yet,  been  duly  furnished  to  a  tenantless  stomach, 
accompanied,  possibly,  with  the  secret  wish  that  Garrote  and 
breakfast  are  not  far  off.  That  it  is  only  three  miles,  over  a 
tolerably  good  road,  is  at  this  time  an  encouraging  thought. 

As  we  jog  along,  we  must  not  omit  to  notice  the  evidences  of 
mining  on  either  hand,  even  if  we  forget  the  unpleasant  fact  that 
a  miner's  labors  almost  invariably  bring  desolation  to  the  land- 
scape. Nor  must  we  pass  unseen  the  sturdy  branch-lopped  and 
root-cut  veteran  trunk  of  a  noble  and  enormous  oak,  some  eleven 
feet  in  diameter,  still  standing  on  our  right ;  as  it  was  from  this 
once  famous  tree  that  "  Big  Oak  Flat,"  the  village  through  which 
we  are  passing,  received  its  name.  Then,  however,  its  immense 
branch-crowned  top  gave  refreshing  shadow  to  the  traveller,  and 
beauty  to  the  scene.  We  fear  that  many  a  year  will  have  made 


yb  SCENES   IN    CALIFORNIA. 

its  faithful  record  before  our  virtues  become  sufficiently  Christian 
to  confess  forgiveness  to  those  who  committed,  or  permitted,  the 
vandal  act  of  its  destruction.  We  take  real  comfort  in  the  thought 
that  its  storm-beaten,  dead,  and  limbless  form  must  daily  admin- 
ister stinging  reproofs  to  every  one  whose  act,  or  silence,  gave 
sanction  to  the  deed.  "  So  mote  it  be !" 

"  Breakfast !"  shouts  the  coachman  (a  musical  sound  indeed  to 
us,  even  though  his  voice  were  cracked,  and  it  isn't),  as  he  "  pulls 
up  "  at  Savory's,  the  jovial  and  obliging  landlord  of  the  Washing- 
ton Hotel,  Garrote.  We  predict  that  if  he  knows  that  we  are 
coming,  and  we  are  certain  that  he  does,  he  will  spread  before  us 
an  excellent  repast, — especially  for  a  mining  town.  Perhaps  it 
will  not  be  out  of  place  here  to  say,  in  all  kindness,  that  no  trav- 
eller should  expect  to  find  meals  and  accommodations  in  the 
mountains  of  California  equal  to  those  of  the  "  Grand  Hotel,"  the 
"  Cosmopolitan,"  or  the  "  Occidental,"  in  San  Francisco.  And 
perhaps  he  doesn't.  "  If  so,  why  so."  Then  we  take  it  all  back. 

While  the  stage  is  settling  our  breakfasts,  and  we  are  advancing 
toward  another  euphoniously  named  mining  camp,  known  as  "  Sec- 
ond Garrote"  (we  should  like  to  "  garrote"  the  name-givers  of  these 
villages  until  they  repented),  we  must  caution  you  against  stop- 
ping (so  soon  after  leaving  Savory's,  you  know),  at  Chaffey  &  Cham- 
berlain's ;  for  their  delicious  pears  and  other  fruits  will  be  sure  to 
tempt  you  to  eat  again,  and  it  is  a  long  way  to  the  doctor's ! 
Then,  if  you  think  of  the  amount  of  internal  freight  taken  in  but 
two  miles  below,  ought  you  in  conscience  to  add  to  it  without 
paying  extra  ?  But  this  being  the  last  orchard  seen  on  this  side 
of  Yo-Semite ;  and  this,  moreover,  being  considered  a  "  pleasure 
trip,"  we  will  accept  of  your  pardon  for  mentioning  such  trifles  as 
apples,  hoping  that  you  have  sufficient  caution  not  to  allow  the 
driver  to  see  you  cram  them  into  your  pockets,  unless  prepared  to 
pay  for  "  extra  baggage."  We  will  talk  to  him  about  a  new  road 
up  the  mountain  while  you  have  an  eye  to  business. 

A  short  ascent  up  a  somewhat  steep  hill,  brings  us  to  the  ups 
and  downs  of  a  ridge  road,  with  timber  and  shrubbery  on  both 
sides.  The  large  ditch  we  cross  several  times  is  that  of  the  Golden 


THE    YO-SEMITE    VALLEY.  97 

Rock  Water  Co.'s,  constructed  for  the  purpose  of  supplying  the 
mining  towns  below  with  water  for  mining  purposes.  This  work 
will  be  seen  at  different  times  until  we  pass  the  "  Big  Gap,"  where 
lie  the  broken  fragments  of  a  flume,  once  the  pride  of  its  engineers, 
as  the  finest  wooden  structure  of  the  kind  in  the  State,  having  a 
height  of  two  hundred  and  sixty-four  feet  above  the  Gap,  and  a 
length  of  two  thousand  two  hundred  feet,  costing  the  snug  little 
amount  of  pocket  change  of  eighty  thousand  dollars.  A  strong 
wind  one  night  told  the  sad  story,  that  "  the  best-laid  plans  of 
mice  and  men  gang  oft  aglee,"  and  made  it  the  wreck  you  see. 
Xow,  a  large  iron  tube  placed  upon  the  ground  answers  the  pur- 
pose of  the  flume.  This  only  cost,  we  are  informed,  some  twelve 
thousand  dollars.  There  is  but  little  danger  of  this  being  blown 
over,  that  is  one  comfort.  Our  hope  and  wish  is  that  it  may  not 
be  inclined  to  go  upon  "  a  bender." 

Calling  at  Sprague's  Ranch  to  pay  our  respects  to  the  owner,  as 
we  are  largely  indebted  to  the  enterprise  of  Mr.  Sprague  for  the 
construction  of  the  new  road  to  liardin's ;  become  refreshed  if  we 
need  "  refreshing ;"  change  or  water  the  horses  ;  and,  to  avoid  a 
side  hill  covered  with  loose  volcanic  scoria,  pass  through  his  farm 
on  our  winding  way. 

As  we  advance  it  is  evident  that  the  timber  becomes  larger,  and 
the  forest  land  more  extensive.  The  gently  rolling  hills  begin  to 
give  way  to  tall  mountains ;  and  the  quiet  and  even  tenor  of  the 
landscape  changes  to  the  wild  and  picturesque.  An  occasional 
deer  may  shoot  across  our  track ;  or  covies  of  quail,  with  their 
beautiful  plumage  and  nodding  "  top-knots,"  whirr  among  the 
bushes.  The  robin  and  meadow  lark  and  oriole  may  prove  to  us 
that  they  still  have  a  love  and  a  voice  for  music ;  and  the  u  too 
coo-"  ing  of  the  dove  tells  that  its  voice  "  is  still  heard  in  our  land." 
Instead  of  the  eastern  "  woodpecker  tapping  at  the  hollow  beach- 
tree,"  the  red-headed  Calilbrnian  variety,  known  as  the  carpenter 
(el  carpintero)  woodpecker,  may  be  seen  busily  engaged  boring 
holes  in  the  bark  of  a  large  pine-tree,  and  afterward  carefully  fit- 
ting and  filling  them  up  with  acorns,  or  critically  examining  them 
apparently  for  his  own  amusement,  or  for  purposes  known  only  to 


98  SCENES    IX    CALIFORNIA. 

himself.  The  reason  for  these  arc  still,  we  believe,  a  mystery  to 
naturalists.  As  the  greatest  activity  in  storing  was  in  the  fall, 
and  the  inspection  went  on  at  other  seasons,  it  was  for  many  years 
supposed  that  an  instinctive  provision  for  a  coming  want  was  the 
cause.  But  as  this  variety  of  woodpecker  has  seldom  or  never  been 
seen  feeding  on  the  acorn,  or  on  the  supposed  insect  which  it  con- 
tained, some  doubt  has  arisen  as  to  the  satisfactory  nature  of  its 
occupation.  Perhaps  some  student  of  the  habits  of  this  singular 
bird  may  give  us  some  interesting  facts  connected  with  its  history. 
.  While  we  are  talking,  the  horses  have  again  stopped  before  a  neat 
house  in  a  green  meadow.  This  is  "Hamilton's,"  near  to  the 
"  Big  Gap."  We  feel  it  a  duty  to  mention  every  deserving  way- 
side public-house,  above  the  settlements,  so  that  any  traveller  who. 
from  either  choice  or  necessity,  wishes  to  eat,  drink",  or  sleep,  may 
know  where  to  go.  But  as  we  must  not  tarry  too  long  by  the  way, 
we  will  now  say  that  seven  miles  above  is  u  Hardin's  Mill  ;''  six 
miles  farther  is  "  Hodgden's,"  at  the  Bronson  meadows  ;  five  miles 
farther  is  u  Goburn's,"  at  Crane  Flat ;  and  five  miles  farther 
brings  us  to  "Tamarack  Flat."  These  people  having  provided  for 
the  wants  of  the  public,  will  be  pleased  to  receive,  we  doubt  not, 
such  patronage  as  any  may  have  to  bestow. 

Who,  in  feeble  language,  can  fully  disclose  to  us  the  grandeur 
of  the  scenery  that  opens  before  us  a  short  distance  east  of  the  Big 
Gap  ?  When  the  painter's  art  can  build  the  rainbow  upon  canvas 
so  as  to  deceive  the  sense  of  sight — when  simple  words  can  tell  the 
depth  and  height,  the  length  and  breadth  of  u  single  thought — 
or  the  physician's  skill  delineate,  beyond  peradventure,  the  hidden 
mysteries  of  a  living  soul — then,  ah  !  then,  it  may  be  possible. 

Deep  down  in  an  abyss  before  us  is  a  gulf — a  canon — of  more 
than  two  thousand  feet.  The  gleaming,  silvery  thread,  seen  run- 
ning among  boulders,  is  the  Tuolumne  River,  a  hundred  feet  in 
width.  Its  rock-ribbed  sides,  in  places,  show  not  a  vestige  of  a 
tree  or  shrub.  In  others,  its  generous  soil  has  clothed  the  almost 
perpendicular  walls  with  verdure.  As  the  eye  wanders  onward 
and  upward  it  traces  the  pine-clad  outlines  of  distant  gorges  whose 
tributary  waters  compose  and  swell  the  volume  of  the  stream 


THK    YOSEMITE    VALLEY.  99 

beneath  us.  To  the  right,  surrounded  by  noble  trees,  can  be  dis- 
cerned a  bright  speck — it  is  a  waterfall  a  hundred  feet  in  height 
and  thirty  feet  in  width.  In  the  far  distance,  piercing  the  clouds, 
the  snow-covered  peaks  of  the  sierras  lift  their  glorious  heads  of 
sheen,  while  a  beautiful  purple  haze  casts  its  broad,  softening 
man  tie  over  all. 

Our  road,  shaded  by  lofty  pines  and  umbrageous  oaks  and 
cooled  by  a  delicious  breeze,  lies  safely  near  the  edge  of  the  preci- 
pice, the  whole  panorama  rolled  vividly  out  before  us.  It  is  such 
scenes  as  this  that  introduce  refreshing  change  to  such  a  journey. 
We  know  of  no  view  equal  to  it,  so  far  from  the  valley,  on  either 
of  the  other  routes. 

Crossing  the  bridge  of  the  south  fork  of  the  Tuolumne,  our 
course  is  upward  for  a  considerable  distance  until  we  reach  liar- 
din's,  and  possibly  dinner.  Beyond,  we  again  cross  the  south 
fork,  and  still  our  course  is  upward,  until  we  have  reached  a  long 
stretch  of  elevated  table-land  that,  for  timber,  is  not  excelled  in 
any  portion  of  the  State.  Large  sugar-pine  trees  (Pinus  Lamber- 
iiana)  from  live  to  ten  feet  in  diameter,  and  over  two  hundred  feet 
in  height,  devoid  of  branches  for  sixty  or  a  hundred  feet,  and  straight 
as  an  arrow,  everywhere  abound.  Besides  these,  there  are  thou- 
sands of  yellow  pines  (Pinus  ponderosa),  Douglas  firs  (Abies 
Douglasii\  and  cedar  (Libocedrus  decurrens\  that  are  but  little, 
if  any,  smaller  or  shorter  than  the  sugar-pines.  These  forests  areS 
not  covered  up  with  a  dense  undergrowth,  as  at  the  east,  but  give  I 
long  and  ever-changing  vistas  for  the  eye  to  penetrate.^)  Well 
might  Mr.  Horace  Greeley  write  concerning  them  : — 

"  Here  let  me  renew  my  tribute  to  the  marvelous  bounty  and 
beauty  of  the  forests  of  this  whole  mountain  region.  The  Sierra 
Nevadas  lack  the  glorious  glaciers,  the  frequent  rains,  the  rich 
verdure,  the  abundant  cataracts  of  the  Alps ;  but  they  far  surpass 
them— they  surpass  any  other  mountains  I  ever  saw— in  the  wealth 
and  grace  of  their  trees.  Look  down  from  almost  any  of  their 
peaks,  and  your  range  of  vision  is  filled,  bounded,  satisfied,  by 
what  might  be  termed  a  tempest-tossed  sea  of  evergreens,  filling 
every  upland  valley,  covering  every  hill-side,  crowning  every 


100  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

peak  but  the  highest,  with  their  unfading  luxuriance.  That  I 
saw,  during  this  day's  travel,  many  hundreds  of  pines  eight  feet 
in  diameter,  with  cedars  at  least  six  feet,  I  am  confident ;  and 
there  were  miles  of  such,  and  smaller  trees  of  like  genus,  standing 
as  thick  as  they  could  grow.  Steep  mountain-sides,  allowing 
these  giants  to  grow,  rank  above  rank,  without  obstructing  each 
other's  sunshine,  seem  peculiarly  favorable  to  the  production  of 
these  serviceable  giants.  But  the  Summit  Meadows  are  peculiar 
in  their  heavy  fringe  of  balsam  fir,  of  all  sizes,  from  those  barely 
one  foot  high  to  those  hardly  less  than  two  hundred,  their  branches 
surrounding  them  in  collars,  their  extremities  gracefully  bent  down 
by  the  weight  of  winter  snows,  making  them  here,  I  am  confident, 
the  most  beautiful  trees  on  earth.  The  dry  promontories  which 
separate  these  meadows,  are  also  covered  with  a  species  of  spruce, 
which  is  only  less  graceful  than  the  firs  aforesaid.  I  never  before 
enjoyed  such  a  tree- feast  as  on  this  wearing,  difficult  ride." 

THE   TUOLUMNE    SOUTH    GROVE    OF    BIG    TREES. 

Talking  of  trees,  almost  before  we  know  it,  we  are  entering  the 
"  Tuolumne  South  Grove  "  of  mammoth  trees,  as  our  road  lies 
directly  through  it.  These  trees  are  of  the  same  genus  (Sequoia 
giyantea)  as  those  of  Calaveras,  Mariposn,  and  other  similar 
groves.  There  are  about  thirty  in  this  group.  Several  of  them 
are  remarkably  fine  specimens  oT  the  Big  Tree  family.  Two  of 
them,  which  grew  from  the  same  root,  and  unite  a  few  feet  above 
the  base,  are  called  "  The  Siamese  Twins."  These  are  about  one 
hundred  and  fourteen  feet  in  circumference  at  the  ground,  and, 
consequently,  about  thirty-eight  feet  in  diameter — of  course, 
including  both.  The  bark  has  been  cut  on  one  side  of  one  of  these 

*  Mr.  G-reeley,  \vo  believe,  rode  from  Bear  Valley  to  the  Yo-Semite — over  sixty 
miles — in  one  day.  He  had  not,  it  is  said,  been  in  a  saddle  before  for  thirty  years. 
Tho  mule  he  rode  was  considered  the  hardest  trotting  brute  in  America  ;  and  Mr.  G. 
(not  the  mule)  being  somewhat  corpulent,  there  was  but  little  unabrased  cuticle  left ' 
him.  Arriving  at  the  hotel  after  midnight,  he  was  lifted  from  his  saddle,  and  at  his 
own  request,  put  supperless  to  bed.  A  little  after  noon  the  same  day,  having  speak- 
ing engagements  to  fulfill,  lie  started  back  without  even  seeing  the  Lake,  or  the  great 
sights  on  the  main  river— the  "  Vernal  "  and  the  •'  Nevada  "  falls. 


THE    YO-SEMITK    VALLEY.  ,101      t 


and  has  been  found  to  measure  twenty  inches  in  thickness.,  ^ 
the  u  Twins"  there  are  two  others  which  mea&ure^se^ 
feet  around  their  base.     There  is  one  black  stump  still  standing 
that  must  have  once  represented  a  tree  not  less  than  one  hundred 
feet  in  circumference.      Within  a  few  yards  of  this  grows  one  of 
the  finest  representatives  of  this  wondrous  family  to  be  found. 

"  Excelsior "  being  our  motto,    we    shall  soon  reach   "  Crane 
Flat."     These  flats  are  grassy  meadows,  interspersed  among  the    7 
mountain  districts,  and  are  generally  the  heads  of  creeks  or  rivers, 
being  almost  always  "  springy."    Of  late  years  they  are  fed  off  by 
bands  of  sheep  brought  up  from  the  plains  when  the  feed  there 
has  become  short  or  dry.      Running  upon  or  over  trails,  they  are 
apt  to  obliterate  all  traces  of  the  traveller's  course,  and  where  a 
short  turn  is  made,  great  care  is  needed,  by  the  inexperienced, 
prevent  being  lost. 

In  the  early  spring  the  snow  upon  the  main  road  being  deep,  a 
detour  is  here  made  from  the  regular  course.  At  such  a  time  we 
strike  a  little  south  of  east,  down  the  flat,  past  the  front  of  the  old 
cabin,  carefully  looking  out  for  and  following  u  the  blazes."  These 
"blazes  "  are  axe  marks  in  the  trees.  This  is  known  as  the  "  Old 
Coulterville  Route ;"  and  although,  in  addition  to  being  several 
miles  further  round,  a  long  mountain  has  to  be  descended  and 
another  one  climbed,  it  is  the  safest  and  most  speedy  in  the  early 
spring.  A  guide,  then,  however,  will  be  very  necessary. 

Let  us  hope  that  we  can  continue  on  the  shortest  and  easiest 
route.  This  will  be  in  a  northeasterly  course  until  we  have  sur- 
mounted the  crest  of  the  dividing  ridge  which  separates  the  waters 
of  the  Tuolumne  from  those  of  the  Merced.  Here  we  are  some 
seven  thousand  feet  above  the  sea.  From  this  ridge  magnificent 
views  of  the  distant  landmarks  and  snow-covered  peaks  of  the 
sierras  open  at  brief  intervals  before  us  ;  while  timber-covered 
ridges  and  gorges,  like  waves  of  the  sea,  stretch  farther  and  farther 
away  to  the  verge  of  the  distant  horizon;  with  an  occasional 
mountain  of  verdureless  ruck,  like  an  island,  standing  gloriously 
out  as  if  to  defy  the  further  encroachments  of  those  evergreen 
masses  of  pines.  There  does  not  seem  to  be  a  foot  of  ground  over 


102  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


,  we ,  are  passing  that  has  not  some   novelty  to  charm  us. 

R^  tlje  Jeixgtherting  shadows  in  silence  admonish  us  not  to  tarry 
too  long.  Reluctantly  we  take  a  long  lingering  look,  and  com- 
mence our  descent  toward  the  wonderful  valley. 

The  apparently  omnipresent  forest  overarches  our  way ;  and 
beautiful  firs  (Picea  amabalis  and,  Picea  grandis)  and  "tama- 
racks" (Pinus  contorta)  stand  sentinel  guard  on  every  hand  ;  while 
patches  of  stunted  manzanita  (Arctostaphylos  ylancd),  with  its 
evergreen  leaves  and  fragrant,  waxy-like  blossoms,  and  different 
species  of  California  lilac  (Ceanothus),  literally  loading  the  air 
with  its  perfume,  and  brightening  the  landscape  with  its  flowery 
plumes  of  purple  or  white,  attract  our  attention,  until,  by  a  gentle 
declivity,  we  arrive  at  "  Tamarack  Flat." 

Here,  for  the  present  at  least,  our  stage  ride  will  probably  end, 
and  that  by  horseback  begin.  Here,  too,  if  we  are  not  tired,  we 
should  walk  about  among  the  singular  groups  of  granite  rocks  that 
surround  the  house.  Their  quaint  forms  and  unique  combinations 
of  picturesque  beauty,  will  wrell  repay  examination.  These  will 
make  an  agreeable  interchange  of  rest  and  recreation  for  a  few 
hours.  The  house  itself,  and  its  accommodations,  will  be  found  to 
be,  like  the  scenery  around  it,  somewhat  meagre  perhaps,  but  we 
trust  with  enough  of  enjoyment  in  it  to  make  the  visit  a  remem- 
brance of  pleasure. 

Now,  the  novelty  of  the  circumstances  and  situation  to  many 
may  be  fruitful  of  confusion,  or  disappointment,  or  dissatisfaction, 
and  even  of  discord,  if  the  following  motto  is  not  inscribed  upon 
every  one's  intent  and  purpose  : 

"  SELFISHNESS  IS  BANISHED  FROM  OUR  PARTY." 

This  being  cheerfully  and  unanimously  conceded,  we  predict 
for  all  a  delightful  trip.  To  secure  its  immediate  as  well  as  ulti- 
mate success,  permit  us  to  make  one  or  two  suggestions  before 
starting  :  First, — Let  there  be  one  chosen  leader  for  the  party, 
whose  excellent  judgment  and  considerate  attention  shall  be 
beyond  question.  Then,  after  mutual  conference  with  each  other 
upon  any  desirable  movement,  let  him  execute  the  wishes  of  the 


THE  YOSEMITE  VALLEY.  103 

majority.  Two  heads,  we  grant,  are  better  than  one  in  consulta- 
tion, but  not  in  execution.  Second, — In  the  selection  of  horses  see 
to  it  that  the  easiest  and  best  is  secured  for  the  most  aged,  or  most 
weakly,  or  the  most  timid.  And  if  experience  teaches  that  an 
error  IIP,S  been  committed,  and  that  after  all  either  possesses  the 
favorite  animal,  let  us  promptly  offer  it  to  the  one  our  better  nature 
tells  us  should  be  the  rider.  Third, — Start  and  keep  as  nearly  as 
possible  together.  Do  not  "  straggle."  If  it  is  perceived  that  one 
of  our  friends  has  not  the  knowledge  of  riding,  or  the  daring  to 
keep  up  with  us,  let  us  not  leave  them,  but  rein  in,  and  keep  them 
company.  We  shall  thus  make  them  our  devoted  friends,  and 
surely  this  would  be  a  better  reward  than  the  boast  that  we  had 
reached  the  hotel  first,  and  secured  the  best  rooms.  The  most 
thorough  enjoyments  of  life  are  those  which  arise  in  generous  and 
sympathetic  consideration  for,  or  concession  to,  the  wants  and 
wishes  of  others. 

Before  mounting  let  the  guide  examine  and  see  that  every 
saddle  is  perfectly  safe.  There  should  be  no  neglect,  or  doubt, 
about  this ;  for,  although  there  is  no  real  danger,  due  precaution 
will  avoid  any.  "  All  ready  ?  "  Then, 


"HOI    FOR  YO-SEMITE." 


104  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

The  gentle  undulations  and  gradual  declivities  of  the  trail  give 
opportunity  for  renewed  confidence,  both  in  ourselves  and  in  our 
horses.  This  will  leave  us  at  liberty  to  notice  the  continuation  of 
the  glorious  forest :  the  singular  and  attractive  groupings  of  the 
rocks,  additional  to  the  conformation  of  numerous  isolated  speci- 
mens, one  of  which  (on  our  right)  resembles,  and  is  named,  u  The 
Decanter."  and  another,  "  The  Sphynx." 

About  two  and  a  half  miles  from  Tamarack  Flat,  we  arrive  at 
Cascade  Creek,  across  which  is  a  rude  bridge ;  almost  immediately 
after  crossing  which  it  will  be  well  for  the  whole  party  to  keep  at 
least  one  eye  open  for  the  beautiful  scene  at  our  left.  In  the  dis- 
tance looms  squarely  up  a  bold  and  lofty  mountain.  In  the  fore- 
ground the  stream  rushes  heedlessly  on  among  large  rocks,  as  if 
indifferent  of  its  fate  ;  now  leaping  over  this,  and  dashing  on  and 
past  that;  here  with  a  seething,  there  with  a  roaring  sound;  yon- 
der bubbling  and  gurgling,  or 

"  Smokin,  and  frothin' 
Its  tumult  and  wrath  in," 

until  the  enchanting  sight,  united  with  its  songs  and  performances, 
may  tempt  us  to  linger  too  long. 

Half  a  mile  farther  we  come  to  the  top  of  a  rocky  promontory, 
and  before  us  is  presented  a  view  that  will  equal,  if  not  surpass, 
any  we  have  yet  seen.  This  is  u  Prospect  Point."  While  the 
guide  is  again  arranging  and  securing  our  saddles  (never  permit 
this  to  be  omitted),  preparatory  to  the  descent  of  the  mountain,  let 
us  realize,  i  f  we  can,  its  ineffable  grandeur.  That  bright  and 
sparkling  stream  is  the  Merced  (meaning  "  River  of  Mercy").  Re- 
leased from  its  pure  snowy  reservoir  among  the  tops  of  the  Sierras, 
it  has  leaped  the  wonderful  walls  of  Yo-Semite,  jind  is  hurrying 
on  through  an  almost  impassable  canon,  to  fertilize  and  gladden  the 
valleys  below.  Three  clays  were  once  spent  by  us  in  that  canon, 
alone,  seeking  to  know  if  a  home  could  be  made  in  Yo-Semite 
during  winter.  In  the  far  distance  lies  "Mount  Bullion,"  the 
easterly  boundary  of  the  Fremont  grant.  In  the  hollow  to  the 
right  is  a  waterfall  of  some  eight  hundred  feet,  made  by  the  union 


THE    YO-SEMITE    VALLEY.  • 


105 


of  the  "  Big  "  and  "  Little  "  Cascade  Creeks.  Beyond  that  is  the 
"  Stand-point  of  Silence,"  on  the  old  Coulterville  trail ;  the  view 
from  which  look  in  or 

£j 

up  through  the  canon 
and  into  the  valley  is 
inexpressibly  grand. 
Now  with  your  per- 
mission we  \vill  com- 
mence the  descent  of 
the  mountain.  There 
is  nothing  in  it  to 
make  us  nervous  or 
uneasy.  Keep  a  mod- 
erately tight  rein,  and 
trust  to  your  horse. 
He  knows  where  to 
place  his  foot  firmly 
at  every  step.  He 
makes  his  own  per- 
sonal safety  a  study, 
as  well  as  ours.  There 
are  but  one  or  two 
very  steep  places  in 
the  entire  descent. 
The  most  timid  may 
wish  to  dismount  and 
walk  at  those  places. 
As  they  are  short, 
that  is  soon  accom- 
plished. And  upon 
the  whole,  although 
we  breathe  more  free- 
ly when  the  valley  is 
reached,  it  is  over  with  almost  before  we  know  it. 

The  picturesque  wildness  of  the  scene  on  every  hand ;  the  excit- 
ing wonders  of  so  romantic  a  journey ;  the  difficulties  surmounted ; 


10G  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

the  dangers  braved  and  overcome,  put  us  in  possession  of  one 
unanimous  feeling  of  unalloyed  delight ;  so  that  when  we  reach 
the  foot  of  the  mountain,  and  look  upon  the  beautiful  rapids  of  the 
river  rolling  and  swelling  at  the  side  of  the  trail,  while  a  forest  of 
oaks  and  pines  stands  sentinel  on  its  banks,  or  ride  side  by  side 
among  the  trees  in  the  valley,  we  congratulate  each  other  upon 
looking  the  very  picture  of  happiness  personified. 


RIVER  SCENE  IN  THE  YO-SEMITE  VALLEY,  NEAR  THE  FOOT  OF  THE  TRAIL. 

Irom  a  Photograph  by  C.  L.   Weed. 

We  will  here  remark  that  there  are  but  two  localities  by  which 
this  valley  can  at  present  be  safely  entered,  the  one  by  which 
we  have  come,  and  the  other  immediately  opposite  the  river,  by 
way  of  Mariposa.  Should  a  railroad  ever  enter  the  valley— and 


THE    YO-SEMITE    VALLEY.  107 

even  now  one  is  in  contemplation — its  course  will,  substantially, 
follow  that  of  the  river  up  the  canon. 

THE    RIDE    UP    THE    VALLEY. 

When  nearly  opposite  the  "Pohono"  or  "  Bridal  Veil "  Fall, 
by  noticing  the  second  high  point  of  the  mountain  west,  a  large 
head  and  strikingly  noble  features  of  a  man  in  profile  can  easily 
be  distinguished.  This  is  connected  with  the  legend  of  Tu-tock- 
ah-nu-lah,  alluded  to  in  other  portions  of  this  chapter,  who  is 
awaiting  the  return  of  his  long-lost  and  lamented  Tis-sa-ac. 

Here,  too,  if  it  is  evening,  a  strong  breeze  is  generally  noticed, 
first  among  the  foliage  of  the  trees,  then  by  its  swaying  their  tops 
and  branches,  and  afterward  by  its  refreshing  coolness  on  the 
brow.  This  breeze  seldom  extends  beyond  a  circumference  half 
a  mile  in  diameter,  and  probably  became  the  origin  of  the  Indian 
tradition  from  whence  the  name  "  Pohono  "  derived  its  significa- 
tion. After  passing  through  this  cool  circle,  gusts  of  warm  wind 
are  frequently  felt  at  intervals  for  some  two  miles.  Having  had 
to  ride  up  the  valley  many  times  after  sunset,  these  experiences 
have  almost  always  been  realized. 

Fatigued  as  we  may  be,  every  object  around  us  has  an  interest 
as  we  pass  this  point,  or  watch  that  shadow  slowly  climbing  those 
towering  granite  walls,  when  the  last  rays  of  the  setting  sun  are 
quietly  draping  the  highest  peaks  of  this  wonderful  valley  with  a 
purple  veil  of  hazy  ether ;  or,  as  Mr.  Greeley  expresses  it,  in  his 
interesting  descriptive  visit, — 

"  That  first  full,  deliberate  gaze  up  the  opposite  height !  can  I 
ever  forget  it  ?  The  valley  is  here  scarcely  half  a  mile  wide  while 
its  northern  wall  of  mainly  naked,  perpendicular  granite,  is  at 
least  four  thousand  feet  high — probably  mor;.  But  the  modicum 
of  moonlight  that  fell  into  this  awful  gorge  [Mr.  Greelqj|  arrived 
in  the  night]  gave  to  that  precipice  a  vagueness  of  outline,  an 
indefinite  vastness,  a  ghostly  and  weird  spirituality.  Had  the 
mountain  spoken  to  me  in  audible  voice,  or  begun  to  lean  over 
with  the  purpose  of  burying  me  beneath  its  crushing  mass,  I 
should  hardly  have  been  surprised.  Its  whiteness,  thrown  into 


108 


SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


bold  relief  by  the  patches  of  trees  or  shrubs  which  fringed  or 
flecked  it  wherever  a  few  handfuls  of  its  moss,  slowly  decomposed 
to  earth,  could  contrive  to  hold  on,  continually  suggested  the 
presence  of  snow,  which  suggestion,  with  difficulty  refuted,  was 
at  once  renewed.  And,  looking  up  the  valley,  we  saw  just  such 
mountain  precipices,  barely  separated  by  intervening  water- 
courses of  inconsiderable  depth,  and  only  receding  sufficiently  to 
make  room  for  a  very  narrow  meadow  inclosing  the  river,  to  the 
furthest  limit  of  vision." 


POM  POM-PA-SUS,"  OR  THE   THREE    BROTHERS,   4,000   FEET   HIGI 
From  a  Photograph  by  C.  L.    Weed. 


THE   YO-SEMITE    VALLEY. 


109 


Our  trail,  for  the  most  part,  lies  among  giant  pines,  from  two 
hundred  to  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height,  and  beneath  the 
refreshing  shade  of  outspreading  oaks  and  other  trees.  Not  a 
sound  breaks  the  expressive  stillness  that  reigns,  save  the  occa- 
sional chirping  and  singing  of  birds  as  they  fly  to  their  nests,  or 
the  low,  distant  sighing  of  the  breeze  in  the  tops  of  the  forest. 
Crystal  streams  occasionally  gurgle  and  ripple  across  our  path, 
whose  sides  are  fringed  with  willows  and  wild  flowers  that  are 
ever  blossoming,  and  grass  that  is  ever  green.  On  either  side  of 
us  stands  almost  perpendicular  cliifs,  to  the  height  of  thirty-five 
hundred  feet ;  and  on  whose  rugged  faces,  or  in  their  uneven  tops 


DISTANT   VIEW   OF   THE    "  POIIOXO,"   OH   BRIDAL   VEIL   WATERFALL, 
From  a  Photograph  l>y  C.  L.   Weed 


110 


SCENES    IN   CALIFORNIA. 


and  sides,  here  and  there  a  stunted  pine  struggles  to  live,  and 
every  crag  seems  crowned  with  some  shrub  or  tree.  The  bright 
sheen  of  the  river  occasionally  glistens  from  among  the  dense 
foliage  of  several  long  vistas  that  continually  open  before  us. 
At  every  step,  some  new  picture  of  great  beauty  presents  itself, 
and  some  new  shapes  and  shadows  from  trees  and  mountains 
form  new  combinations  of  light  and  shade,  in  this  great  kaleido- 
scope of  nature. 

Shortly  after  passing  Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah,  on  our  left,  we  come 
in  sight  of  three  points  which  the  Indians  know  as  uPom-p 
pa-sus" — mountains  playing  leap-frog,  but  which  some  lacks 
cal  person  has  given  the   common-place  name  of  "  The  Three 
Brothers,'1  beyond  which  we  get  the  first  glimpse  of  the  upper 
part  of  the  Yo-Semite  waterfall. 

Perhaps  we  ought  previously  to  have  mentioned,  that  the  first 
water-fall  of  any  magnitude  which  strikes  our  attention  on  en- 
tering the  valley — and,  indeed,  on  several  occasions  before  reach- 
ing the  bottom  land  of  the  valley — is  the  "Pohono"  (Indian 


THE   FERRY. 
From  a  Photograph  "by  C.  L.   Weed. 


THE    YO-SEMITE    YALLEY. 


Ill 


name),  or  "  Bridal  Veil "  Fall,  and  which  we  shall  more  fully  de- 
scribe when  we  take  a  near  view  of  it. 

Surrounded  by  such  scenes  of  loveliness  and  sublimity,  we  feel 
a  reluctance  to  break  the 
charm  they  throw  upon  us 
by  any  speech ;  when  some 
one  is  almost  sure  to  cry  out 
— "  The  Ferry."  Here  the 
river  is  about  sixty  feet 
wide,  and  twelve  feet  deep 
— across  which  we  can  be 
speedily  conveyed  on  a  good 
boat,  at  the  rate  of  thirty- 
seven  and  a-half  cents  per 
head  for  men,  women,  and 
animals. 

By  consulting  the  accom- 
panying outline  map  of  the 
valley  and  its  surroundings, 
it  will  readily  be  seen  that 
a  little  detour  to  the  left 
will  enable  us  to  avoid  the 
delay  and  expense  of  the 
ferry.  By  taking  the  trail 
indicated,  we  cross  "  The 
Point  of  Rocks  ; "  from 
whence  some  charming 
scenes  are  obtained,  and  are 
on  the  direct  course  for 
Hutchings'  Bridge,  the  only 
one  in  the  valley, — which 
spans  the  Merced  River  just 
opposite  his  house,  and  is 
entirely  free  to  the  public. 

As  we  ride  along,  the  "  Yo- Semite  Fall,"  the  "  North  Dome," 
'•  Royal  Arches,"  <•  Washington  Tower,"  "  Clouds  Rest,"  "  South 


112  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

Dome,"  "  Sentinel,"  and  other  grand  points  of  interest,  now  seen 
only  at  a  distance,  impressively  suggest  the  treat  in  store  for  us 
when  we  obtain  a  closer  personal  interview  with  their  matchless 
wonders. 

Now,  notwithstanding  the  many  objects  of  interest  we  have 
passed,  we  venture,  upon  a  guess,  that  one  thought  has  frequently 
intruded  itself  upon  our  notice,  it  is  this — u  Shall  we  ever  come 
up  to  that  mountain  ?"  and  the  length  of  time  consumed -in  the 
attempt — especially  if  the  unaccustomed  ride  has  brought  with  it 
a  corresponding  amount  of  fatigue — would  seem  to  give  back  the 
nonchalant  and  unfeeling  answer,  *'  Never  !  "  There  is,  however, 
no  greater  proof  of  the  unrealized  altitudes  of  these  mountain-sides 
than  this — the  time  it  takes  to  reach  or  pass  them. 

But  amidst  all  these  we  can  hear  one  ejaculation  that  seems  to 
contain  more  real  satisfaction  in  it  than  any  amount  of  sight-see- 
ing just  now.  It  is  this  one  :  u  Thank  goodness.  Here's  the  Yo- 
Semite  Hotel.  Here's  Hutchings' !  " — and  commending  ourselves 
to  its  most  generous  hospitalities — for  we  need  them — we  will  dis- 
mount in  the  hope  that  a  refreshing  glass  of  pure  California  wine 
(or  something  stronger,  if  we  prefer  it,  as  none  but  excellent 
liquors  are  considered  by  the  landlord  to  be  worth  packing  in)  a 
•good  wash,  and  an  acceptable  dinner  await  us. 

THE    FIEST    NIGHT    IN    THE    VALLKY. 

After  the  fatigue  and  excitement  of  the  ride,  and  the  novel  cir- 
cumstances of  the  past  few  nights,  it  is  natural  to  suppose  that 
with  a  comfortable  bed  will  come  refreshing  slumbers ;  yet  experi- 
ence may  prove  that,  weary  as  we  are,  it  seems  such  a  luxury  to 
lie  awake  and  listen  to  the  splashing,  washing,  roaring,  surging, 
hissing,  seething  sound  of  the  great  Yo-Semite  Falls,  just  opposite  : 
or  to  pass  quietly  out  of  our  resting-place,  and  look  up  between  the 
lofty  pines  and  spreading  oaks  to  the  granite  cliffs  that  tower  up 
with  such  majesty  of  form  and  boldness  of  outline  against  the  vast 
ethereal  vault  of  heaven ;  or  watch,  in  the  moonlight,  the  ever- 
changing  shapes  and  shadows  of  the  water,  as  it  leaps  the  cloud- 
draped  summit  of  the  mountain,  and  falls  in  gusty  torrents  on  the 


THE    YO-SEMITE   VALLEY.  113 

unyielding  granite,  to  be  dashed  to  an  infinity  of  atoms.  Then  to 
return  to  our  welcome  couch  and  dream  of  some  tutelary  genius, 
of  immense  proportions,  extending  over  us  his  protecting  arms — 
of  his  admonishing  the  waterfall  to  modulate  the  music  of  its 
voice,  that  we  may  sleep  and  be  refreshed. 

THE    FIRST    DAY    IN    THE    VALLEY. 

Some  time  before  the  sun  can  get  a  good,  honest  look  at  us, 
deep  down  as  we  are  in  this  awful  chasm,  we  see  him  painting 
his  rosy  smiles  upon  the  ridges,  and  etching  lights  and  shadows  in 
the  furrows  of  the  mountain's  brow,  as  though  he  took  a  pride 
in  showing  up,  to  the  best  advantage,  the  wrinkles  time  had  made 
upon  it ;  but  all  of  us  feel  too  fatigued  fully  to  enjoy  the  thrilling 
grandeur  and  beauty  that  surrounds  us. 

But  little  laborious  effort  being  desired  on  the  first  day  after 
arrival,  it  will  be  well  to  rest  long  and  breakfast  late.  The  morn- 
ing can  be  devoted  to  scenes  that  are  near  the  hotel,  and  there  are 

O  ' 

enough  to  employ  and  charm  us.  Fortified  by  a  morning  of  quiet 
and  a  substantial  lunch,  let  us  in  the  afternoon  pay  a  visit  to 

THE   LOWER   YO-SEMITE   FALL. 

Crossing  the  bridge  over  the  main  stream,  which  is  here  about 
eighty  feet  in  width  and  five  in  depth,'  we  keep  down  the  northern 
bank  of  the  river  for  a  short  distance,  to  avoid  a  large  portion  of  the 
valley  in  front  of  the  hotel,  that  is  probably  overflowed  with  water. 

Presently  we  reach  one  of  the  most  beautifully  picturesque 
scenes  that  eye  ever  saw.  It  is  the  ford.  The  oak,  dogwood 
maple,  cotton  wood,  arid  other  trees,  form  an  arcade  of  great  beautj 
over  the  sparkling,  rippling,  pebbly  stream,  and,  in  the  back- 
ground, the  lower  fall  of  the  Yo-Semire  is  dropping  its  sheet  of 
snowy  sheen  behind  a  dark  middle  distance  of  pines  and  firs. 

As  the  snow  rapidly  melts  beneath  the  fiery  strength  of  a  hot 
summer  sun,  a  large  body  of  water,  most  probably,  is  rushing 
past,  forming  several  small  streams — which,  being  comparatively 
shallow,  are  easily  forded.  When  within  about  a  hundred  and 
fifty  yards  of  the  fall,  as  numerous  large  boulders  begin  to  inter- 


114 


SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


THE  FORD   OF  THE   YO-SEM1TE. 
From  a  Photograph  ly  C.  L.  Weed. 


cept  our  progress,  we  may  as  well  dismount,  and,  after  fastening 
our  animals  to  some  young  trees,  make  our  way  up  to  it  on  foot. 

Now  a  change  of  temperature  soon  becomes  perceptible,  as  we 
advance;  and  the  almost  oppressive  heat  of  the  centre  of  the 
valley  is  gradually  changing  to  that  of  chilliness.  But  up,  up,  we 
climb,  over  this  rock,  and  past  that  tree,  until  we  reach  the  foot, 
or  as  near  as  we  can  advance  to  it,  of  the  great  Yo-Semite  Fall, 
when  a  cold  draught  of  air  rushes  down  upon  us  from  above, 
about  equal  in  strength  to  an  eight  knot  breeze ;  bringing  with  it 
a  heavy  shower  of  finely  comminuted  spray,  that  falls  with  suf- 
ficient force  to  saturate  our  clothing  in  a  few  moments.  From 


KEAR   VIEW   OF   THE  YO-SEMITE  FALLS. — 2,550    FEET   IN   HEIGHT. 
ft    Phntnnrnnh  i,ii  C!.    L. 


116  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

this  a  beautiful  phenomenon  is  observable — inasmuch  as,  after 
striking  our  hats,  the  diamond-like  mist  shoots  off  at  an  angle  of 
about  thirty-five  or  forty  degrees,  and  as  the  sun  shines  upon  it,  a 
number  of  miniature  rainbows  are  formed  all  round  us. 

Those  who  have  never  visited  this  spot,  must  not  suppose  that 
the  cloud-like  spray  that  descends  upon  us  is  the  main  fall  itself, 
broken  into  infinitesimal  particles,  and  becoming  nothing  but  a 
;  sheet  of  cloud.  By  no  means ;  for,  although  this  stream  shoots 
over  the  margin  of  the  mountain,  nearly  seven  hundred  feet 
above,  it  falls  almost  in  a  solid  body — not  in  a  continuous  stream 
exactly,  but  having  a  close  resemblance  to  an  avalanche  of  snowy 
rockets  that  appear  to  be  perpetually  trying  to  overtake  each 
other  in  their  descent,  and  mingle  the  one  into  the  other; the  whole 
composing  a  torrent  of  indescribable  power  and  beauty. 

Huge  boulders,  and  large  masses  of  sharp,  angular  rocks,  are 
scattered  here  and  there,  forming  the  uneven  sides  of  an  immense, 
and  apparently  ever-boiling  cauldron ;  around,  and  in  the  inter- 
stices of  which,  numerous  dwarf  ferns,  weeds,  grasses,  and  flowers, 
are  ever  growing,  where  not  actually  washed  by  the  falling 
stream. 

It  is  beyond  the  power  of  language  to  describe  the  awe-inspir- 
ing majesty  of  the  darkly-frowning  and  overhanging  mountain 
walls  of  solid  granite  that  here  hem  us  in  on  every  side,  as  though 
they  would  threaten  us  with  instantaneous  destruction,  if  not  total 
annihilation,  did  we  attempt  for  a  moment  to  deny  their  power. 
If  man  ever  feels  his  utter  insignificance  at  any  time,  it  is  when 
looking  upon  such  a  scene  of  appalling  grandeur  as  the  one  here 
presented. 

The  point  from  whence  the  photograph  was  taken  from  which 
our  engraving  is  made — being  almost  underneath  the  fall — might 
lead  to  the  supposition  that  the  lower  section,  which  embraces 
more  than  two-thirds  of  the  picture,  was  the  highest  of  the  two 
seen ;  when,  in  fact,  the  lower  one,  according  to  the  measure- 
ments of  Mr.  Denman,  superintendent  of  Public  Schools  in  San 
Francisco ;  of  Mr.  Peterson,  the  engineer  of  the  Mariposa  and 
Yo-Semite  Water  Company ;  and  of  Mr.  Long,  county  surveyor, 


THE    YO-SEMITE    VALLEY.  117 

is  about  seven  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  valley,  while 
the  upper  fall  is  about  one  thousand  four  hundred  and  forty- 
eight  feet,  and  between  the  two,  measuring  about  four  hundred 
feet,  is  a  series  of  rapids  rather  than  a  fall,  giving  the  total  height 
of  the  entire  fall  at  two  thousand  five  hundred  and  forty-eight 
feet* 

After  lingering  here  for  several  hours,  with  inexpressible  feel- 
ings of  suppressed  astonishment  and  delight,  qualified  and  in- 
tensified by  veneration,  we  may  take  a  long  and  reluctant  last 
upward  gaze,  convinced  that  we  shall  "never  look  upon  its  like 
again,"  until  we  pay  it  another  visit  at  some  future  time ;  and, 
making  ,the  best  of  our  way  to  where  our  horses  are  tied,  return  to 
the  hotel. 

SECOND   DAY  IN    THE   YO-SEMITE  VALLEY. — RIDE    TO   LAKE  AH^K^^j 

OK   MIRROR    LAKE. 

After  a  substantial  breakfast,  made  palatable  by  that  best  of  all 
sauces,  a  good  appetite,  our  guide  announces  that  the  horses  are 
ready.  As  much  of  the  beauty  of  the  lake  consists  in  the  reflection 
of  its  glorious  surroundings — mountains  four  thousand  to  between 
five  and  six  thousand  feet  in  height — it  is  desirable  that  a 
reasonably  early  start  should  be  obtained.  Sometimes  the  un- 
broken calm  of  its  glassy  bosom  is  not  disturbed  before  twelve 
o'clock  M.  At  other  times  the  breeze  has  broken  it  up  by  ten 
o'clock  A.  M.  But  generally  the  mirror  is  perfect  until  nearly 
noon.  On  account  of  the  early  time  desirable  for  setting  out  on 
this  trip,  it  is  better  to  postpone  it  until  the  second  day,  as  a  pre- 
mature departure  from  our  couch  on  the  first  morning,  will 
generally  bring  on  premature  fatigue,  and  a  consequent  decrease 
in  the  amount  of  our  enjoyment.  The  distance  is  only  three  miles, 
and  we  can  ride  all  the  way  on  horseback. 

*Prof.  J.  D.  Whitney  makes  the  height  of  this  fall  to  be  from  2,537  to  2,641  feet. 
First  fall  1,500 — Second  626 — and  Third  400.  A  notice  we  saw  upon  a  stump,  placed 
there  by  the  State  Geological  Survey,  in  1863,  gave  its  total  height  above  the  valley  as 
2,634  feet.  That  we  think  should  be  the  preferred  measurement. 


118  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

Leaving  the  hotel,  \ve  cross  the  bridge  and  thread  our  way 
through  the  far-stretching  vistas  of  luxuriant  green  that  open 
before  us ;  the  bright  sunlight  and  somber  shadows  ever  winking 
and  twinkling  upon  the  sparkling  and  gurgling  streams  that 
cross  our  trail,  until  we  emerge  on  a  grassy  and  flower- 
covered  plateau  on  the  north  side  of  the  valley,  near  the  base  of ' 
the  great  North  Dome,  called  by  the  Indians  u>To-coy-ae."  This 
mountain  of  naked  granite,  with  scarcely  a  treo  or  shrub  growing 
from  a  single  crevice,  towers  above  you  to  the  height  of  three 
thousand  seven  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet.  Its  sides  are  nearly 
perpendicular  for  more  than  two  thousand  feet,  and  in  which  a 
colossal  arch  is  formed,  doubtless  from  the  falling  of  several 
sections  of  the  rock.  This  has  been  designated  the  "  Royal  Arch 
of  To-coy-se."  This,  we  believe,  has  never  been  measured  ;  but 
we  should  judge  its  altitude,  from  the  valley  to  the  crown  of  the 
arch,  to  be  about  one  thousand  seven  hundred  feet,  and  its 
span  about  two  thousand  feet ;  its  depth  in,  from  the  face  of  the 
rock,  is  about  eighty  or  ninety  feet. 

On  our  way  up  we  pass  the  winter-quarters  of  Mr.  Lamon  on 
our  left,  and  about  half  a  mile  above  his  cabin  we  can  see  his 
garden  and  orchard  on  our  right.  Between  the  two  are  several 
brushy  structures  in  the  Indian  style  of  architecture,  built  by  the 
Mono  Indians  for  the  purpose  of  storing  acorns  during  the  winter, 
in  order  to  give  them  a  supply  of  that  (to  them)  useful  edible  during 
summer.  Piilons,  or  pine  nuts,  and  acorns  are  their  staple  articles 
of  diet.  When  the  supply  of  pinons  fail,  acorns  are  generally 
abundant,  and  the  Indians  visit  Yo  Semite  during  fall,  in  strings 
of  from  forty  to  fifty,  for  the  purpose  of  packing  acorns  over  the 
sierras  to  Mono  for  their  winter  supply.  This  is  generally  done 
by  the  women  !  They  peel  and  dry  them  before  packing.  When 
wanted  for  use  they  are  ground  by  being  pounded  on  a  rock. 
The  tannin  is  then  taken  out  by  means  of  warm  water ;  and  after 
boiling  it  with  hot  stones  dropped  into  water-tight  baskets  it  re- 
sembles mush  and  is  eaten  with  the  fingers.  There  is  one  feature 
here  that  should  not  be  overlooked,  and  that  is  the  small  streams  of 
water  that  leap  down  over  the  granite  walls,  like  falling  strings  of 


THE   YO-SEMITE    VALLEY. 


119 


pearls  and  diamonds.     These  add  much,  in  early  spring,  to  the 
attractiveness  of  the  scene. 

Having  crossed  the  plateau,  we  ride  over  some  rocky  hillocks, 
and  among  a  park-like  array  of  oak  trees,  until  we  arrive  at  Lake 
Ah-wi-yah,  so  named  and  known  by  the  Indians,  but  which  has 


LAKE   AH-WI-YAH,   OR   MIRROR  LAKE. 

been  newly  christened  by  American  visitors  "  Lake  Hiawatha," 
"  Mirror  Lake,"  and  several  others,  which,  though  pretty  enough, 
are  equally  common-place  and  unsuitable.  But  of  this  we  shall 
have  something  to  say  in  another  place. 

This  lake,  although  a  charming  little  sheet  of  crystal  water  of 
almost  a  couple  of  acres  in  extent,  in  which  numerous  schools  of 
speckled  trout  may  be  seen  gaily  disporting  themselves,  would 
be  unworthy  of  a  notice,  but  for  the  picturesque  grandeur  of  its 
surroundings.  On  the  north  and  west  lie  immense  rocks  that 
have  become  detached  from  the  tops  of  the  mountain  above ; 


120  SCENES    IN    CALIFOKNIA. 

among  these  grow  a  large  variety  of  trees  and  shrubs,  many  of 
which  stand  on  and  overhang  the  margin  of  the  lake,  and  are 
reflected  on  its  mirror-like  bosom.  To  the  north-east  opens  a  vast 
gorge  or  canon,  down  which  impetuously  rush  the  waters  of  the 
north  fork  of  the  Merced,  which  debouches  into  and  supplies  the 
lake. 

On  the  south-east  stands  the  majestic  Mount  Tis-sa-ack,  or 
"  South  Dome,"  four  thousand  five  hundred  and  ninety-three  feet 
4n  altitude  above  the  valley.  Almost  one-half  of  this  immense 
mass,  either  from  some  convulsion  of  nature,  or 

"  Time's  effacing  fingers," 

has  fallen  over,  by  which,  most  probably,  the  dam  for  this  lake 
was  first  formed.  Yet  proudly,  aye,  defiantly  erect,  it  still  holds 
its  noble  head,  and  is  not  only  the  highest  of  all  those  around, 
but  is  the  greatest  attraction  of  the  valley.  Moreover,  in  this 
are  centred  many  agreeable  associations  to  the  Indian  mind ;  as 
here  was  once  the  traditionary  home  of  the  guardian  spirit  of 
the  valley,  the  angel-like  and  beautiful  Tis-sa-ack,  after  whom 
her  devoted  Indian  worshippers  named  this  gloriously  majestic 
mountain.  "While  we  sit  in  the  shade  of  these  fine  old  trees,  and 
look  upon  all  the  objects  around  us,  mirrored  on  the  unruffled 
bosom  of  the  lake,  let  us  relate  the  following  interesting  legend 
of  Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah,  after  whom  the  vast  perpendicular  and 
massive  projecting  rock  at  the  lower  end  of  the  valley  was 
named,  and  with  which  is  interwoven  this  history  of  Tis-sa-ack. 

This  legend  was  told  in  an  eastern  journal,  by  a  gentleman 
residing  here,  who  signs  himself  "  Iota,"  and  who  received  it  from 
the  lips  of  an  old  Indian ;  the  relation  of  which,  although  several 
points  of  interest  are  omitted,  will,  nevertheless,  prove  very 
entertaining : 

THE    LEGEND    OF   TU-TOCK-AH-NTJ-LAH    AND    TIS-SA-ACK. 

"  It  was  in  the  unremembered  past  that  the  children  of  the  sun 
first  dwelt  in  Yo-Semite.  Then  all  was  happiness  ;  for  Tu-tock-ah- 
nu-lah  sat  on  high  in  his  rocky  home,  and  cared  for  the  people 


THE    YO-SEMITE    VALLKY.  121 

whom  he  loved.  Leaping  over  the  upper  plains,  he  herded  the 
wild  deer,  that  the  people  might  choose  the  fattest  for  the  feast. 
He  roused  the  bear  from  his  cavern  in  the  mountain,  that  the 
brave  might  hunt.  From  his  lofty  rock  he  prayed  to  the  Great 
Spirit,  and  brought  the  soft  rain  upon  the  corn  in  the  valley. 
The  smoke  of  his  pipe  curled  into  the  air,  and  the  golden  sun 
breathed  warmly  through  its  blue  haze,  and  ripened  the  crops, 
that  the  women  might  gather  them  in.  When  he  laughed,  'the 
face  of  the  winding  river  was  rippled  with  smiles ;  when  he, 
sighed,  the  wind  swept  sadly  through  the  singing  pines  ;  if  he 
spoke,  the  sound  was  like  the  deep  voice  of  the  cataract ;  and 
when  he  smote  the  far-striding  bear,  his  whoop  of  triumph  rang 
from  .crag  to  gorge — echoed  from  mountain  to  mountain.  His 
form  was  straight  like  the  arrow,  and  elastic  like  the  bow.  His 
foot  was  swifter  than  the  red  deer,  and  his  eye  was  strong  and 
bright  like  the  rising  sun. 

"  But  one  morning,  as  he  roamed,  a  bright  vision  came  before 
him,  and  then  the  soft  colors  of  the  West  were  in  his  lustrous 
eye.  A  maiden  sat  upon  the  southern  granite  dome  that  raises  its 
gray  head  among  the  highest  peaks.  She  was  not  like  the  dark 
maidens  of  the  tribe  below,  for  the  yellow  hair  rolled  over  her 
dazzling  form,  as  golden  waters  over  silver  rocks ;  her  brow 
beamed  with  the  pale  beauty  of  the  moonlight,  and  her  blue  eyes 
were  as  the  far-off  hills  before  the  sun  goes  down.  Her  little 
foot  shone  like  the  snow-tufts  on  the  wintry  pines7  and  its  arch 
was  like  the  spring  of  a  bow.  Two  cloud-like  wings  wavered 
upon  her  dimpled  shoulders,  and  her  voice  was  as  the  sweet,  sad 
tone  of  the  night-bird  of  the  woods. 

u  <  Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah,'  she  softly  whispered  ;  then  gliding  up  the 
rocky  dome,  she  vanished  over  its  rounded  top.  Keen  was  the 
eye,  quick  was  the  ear,  swift  was  the  foot  of  the  noble  youth  as 
he  sped  up  the  rugged  path  in  pursuit ;  but  the  soft  down  from 
her  snowy  wings  was  wafted  into  his  eyes,  and  he  saw  her  no 
more. 

"  Every  morning  now  did  the  enamored  Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah  leap 
the  stony  barriers,  and  wander  over  the  mountains,  to  meet  the 


lt>2  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

lovely  Tis-sa-ack.  Each  day  he  laid  sweet  acorns  and  wild  flowers 
upon  her  dome.  His  ear  caught  her  footstep,  though  it  was  light 
as  the  falling  leaf ;  his  eye  gazed  upon  her  beautiful  form,  and 
into  her  gentle  eyes ;  but  never  did  he  speak  before  her,  and 
never  again  did  her  sweet-toned  voice  fall  upon  his  ear.  Thus 
did  he  love  the  fair  maid,  and  so  strong  was  his  thought  of  her 
that  he  forgot  the  crops  of  Yo-Semite,  and  they,  without  rain, 
wanting  his  tender  care,  quickly  drooped  their  heads,  and  shrunk. 
The  wind  whistled  mournfully  through  the  wild  corn,  the  wild 
bee  stored  no  more  honey  in  the  hollow  tree,  for  the  flowers  had 
lost  their  freshness,  and  the  green  leaves  became  brown.  Tu-tock- 
ah-nu-lah  saw  none  of  this,  for  his  eyes  were  dazzled  by  the  shin- 
ing wings  of  the  maiden.  But  Tis-sa-ack  looked  with  sorrowing 
eyes  over  the  neglected  valley,  when  early  in  the  morning  she 
stood  upon  the  gray  dome  of  the  mountain ;  so,  kneeling  on  the 
smooth,  hard  rock,  the  maiden  besought  the  Great  Spirit  to  bring 
again  the  bright  flowers  and  delicate  grasses,  green  trees,  and 
nodding  acorns. 

"Then,  with  an  awful  sound,  the  dome  of  granite  opened 
beneath  her  feet,  and  the  mountain  was  riven  asunder,  while  the 
melting  snows  from  the  Nevada  gushed  through  the  wonderful 
gorge.  Quickly  they  formed  a  lake  between  the  perpendicular 
walls  of  the  cleft  mountain,  and  sent  a  sweet  murmuring  river 
through  the  valley.  All  then  was  changed.  The  birds  dashed 
their  little  bodies  into  the  pretty  pools  among  the  grasses,  and 
fluttering  out  again,  sang  for  delight ;  the  moisture  crept  silently 
through  the  parched  soil ;  the  flowers  sent  up  a  fragrant  incense 
of  thanks ;  the  corn  gracefully  raised  its  drooping  head ;  and  the 
sap,  with  velvet  footfall,  ran  up  into  the  trees,  giving  life  and 
energy  to  all.  But  the  maid,  for  whom  the  valley  had  suffered, 
and  through  whom  it  had  been  again  clothed  with  beauty,  had 
disappeared  as  strangely  as  she  came.  Yet,  that  all  might  hold 
her  memory  in  their  hearts,  she  left  the  quiet  lake,  the  winding 
river,  and  yonder  half-dome,  which  still  bears  her  name,  '  Tis-sa- 
ack?  It  is  said  to  be  four  thousand  five  hundred  feet  high,  and 
every  evening  it  catches  the  last  rosy  rays  that  are  reflected  from 


THE    YO-SKMITE    VALLEY.  123 

the  snowy  peaks  above.  As  she  flew  away,  small  downy  feathers 
were  wafted  from  her  wings,  and  where  they  fell — on  the  margin 
of  the  lake — you  will  now  see  thousands  of  little  white  violets. 

"  When  Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah  knew  that  she  was  gone,  he  left  his 
rocky  castle  and  wandered  away  in  search  of  his  lost  love.  But 
that  the  Yo-Semites  might  never  forget  him,  with  the  hunting- 
knife  in  his  bold  hand,  he  carved  the  outlines  of  his  noble  head 
upon  the  face  of  the  rock  that  bears  his  name.  And  there  they 
still  remain,  three  thousand  feet  in  the  air,  guarding  the  entrance 
to  the  beautiful  valley  which  had  received  his  loving  care 

If  a  precautionary  provision  was  not  made  in  the  morning  for 
our  noon  repast,  by  this  time  an  admonishing  voice  from  the  organs 
of  digestion  will  be  seductively  suggestive  of  an  early  departure 
for  the  hotel.  On  our  way  we  should  by  no  means  deny  ourselves 
the  gratification  of  a  visit  to  Lamon's  Garden.  For  in  addition 
to  its  excellent  cultivation,  the  variety  and  abundance  of  fine  and 
delicious  fruits,  it  will  be  an  acceptable  intrusion  upon  the 
owner's  bachelor  solitude  to  see  so  many  cheery  faces  within  it. 
Much  of  his  pleasure  consists  in  showing  it  to  appreciative  visitors, 
and  the  charge  is  merely  nominal,  only  twenty-five  cents  each  for 
all  the  fruit  we  can  eat.  He  has  two  orchards  of  over  five  hun-j 
dred  fruit-trees  in  each.  One  winter  he  lived  in  Yo-Semite  en- 
tirely alone,  locked  in  by  the  snowy  ridges  and  was  some  twenty- 
five  miles  from  his  nearest  neighbor. 

Our  lunch  snugly  disposed  of,  succeeded  by  a  good  rest,  let  us 
take  a  delightful  ride  of  four  miles,  and  pay  an  afternoon's  visit  to 

THE    "  POIIONO  "    OR    BRIDAL    VEIL    WATERFALL. 

Visitors  generally  prefer  paying  a  visit  to  the  Pohono  Fall, 
before  undertaking  those  of  greater  difficulty  at  the  upper  end  of 
the  valley,  that  they  may  become  somewhat  better  rested  from 
the  fatigue  of  the  journey.  Let  us,  therefore,  not  be  out  of  the 
fashion,  but  take  a  quiet  ride  down  the  south  side  of  the  valley  at 
once ;  and  the  first  point  of  striking  interest  we  shall  notice  on 
our  left  will  be  Sentinel  Eock,  a  lofty  and  solitary  peak,  upon 
which  the  watch-fires  of  the  Indians  have  often  been  lighted  to 


SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


SENTINEL   ROCK,    3,270   FEET   HIGH. 

give  warning  of  approaching  danger ;  and  which  can  readily  be 
seen  from  all  the  principal  points  within  and  around  the  valley. 

Further  on,  we  see  a  singular  group  of  peaks,  that  will  resemble 
almost  any  thing  we  can  conjure  up,  according  to  the  time  of  day 
we  may  be  passing,  as  every  change  in  the  position  of  the  sun  will 
give  a  new  set  of  shadows ;  but  that  which  it  most  resembles,  is 
the  dilapidated  front  of  some  grand  old  cathedral,  with  towers 
and  buttresses ;  and,  in  one  place,  a  circle  that  a  strong  imagina- 
tion can  make  into  a  clock,  which  will  indicate  the  time  of  day  to 
a  moment ! 

This  passed,  we  come  in  front  of  the  Pohono  Fall.  After 
threading  our  way  among  trees  and  bushes,  over  rocks  and  water- 
courses, it  becomes  necessary  that  we  should  dismount,  and  tie 


THE    YO-SEMITE    VALLKY.  125 

our  animals,  as  the  remaining  distance  is  over  a  rough  ascent  of 
rocks,  which  will  have  to  be  accomplished  on  foot.  As  this  is 
short,  we  shall  thread  our  way  among  bushes  and  boulders,  with- 
out much  difficulty,  until  the  heavy  spray  from  the  fall  saturates 
our  clothing,  and  the  velvety  softness  of  the  moist  grasses  growing 
upon  the  little  ridge  we  have  climbed,  reminds  us  that  the  goal  of 
our  desire  is  reached. 

It  is  impossible  to  portray  the  feeling  of  awe,  wonder,  and  ad- 
miration— almost  amounting  to  adoration — that  thrills  our  very 
souls  as  we  look  upon  this  enchanting  scene.  The  gracefully  un- 
dulating and  wavy  sheets  of  spray,  that  fall  in  gauze-like  and 
ethereal  folds ;  now  expanding,  now  contracting ;  now  glittering 
in  the  sunlight,  like  a  veil  of  diamonds ;  now  changing  into  one 
vast  and  many-colored  cloud,  that  throws  its  misty  drapery  over 
the  falling  torrent,  as  if  in  very  modesty,  to  veil  its  unspeakable 
beauty  from  our  too  eagerly  admiring  sight. 

In  order  to  see  this  to  the  best  advantage,  the  eye  should  take 
in  only  the  foot  of  the  fall  at  first ;  then  a  short  section  upward ; 
then  higher,  until,  by  degrees,  the  top  is  reached.  In  this  way  the 
majesty  of  the  waterfall  is  more  fully  realized  and  appreciated. 

The  stream  itself — about  forty  feet  in  width — resembles  an 
avalanche  of  watery  rockets,  that  shoots  out  over  the  precipice 
above  you,  at  the  height  of  nearly  nine  hundred  feet,  and  then  leaps 
down,  in  one  unbroken  train,  to  the  immense  cauldron  of  boulders 
beneath,  where  it  surges  and  boils  in  its  angry  fury,  throwing  up 
large  volumes  of  spray,  over  which  the  sun  forms  two  or  more 
magnificent  rainbows  which  arch  the  abyss. 

Like  most  other  tributaries  of  the  main  middle  fork  of  the  Mer- 
ced, this  stream  falls  very  low  toward  the  close  of  the  summer, 
but  is  seldom,  if  ever,  entirely  dry.  When  we  visited  the  valley 
in  July,  1855,  this  branch  did  not  contain  more  than  one-tenth 
the  water  usually  seen  in  the  month  of  May  or  June. 

The  river  has  its  origin  in  a  lake  at  the  foot  of  a  bold,  crescent- 
shaped,  perpendicular  rock,  about  thirteen  miles  above  the  edge 
of  the  Pohono  Fall.  On  this  lake  a  strong  wind  is  said  to  be  con- 
tinually blowing;  and,  as  several  Indians  have  lost  their  lives 


126  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

there  and  in  the  stream,  their  exceedingly  acute  and  superstitious 
imaginations  have  made  it  bewitched. 

An  Indian  woman  was  out  gathering  seeds,  a  short  distance 
above  these  falls,  when,  by  some  mishap,  she  lost  her  balance  and 
fell  into  the  stream,  and  the  force  of  the  current  carried  her 
down  with  such  velocity,  that  before  any  assistance  could  be 
rendered,  she  was  swept  over  the  precipice,  and  was  never  seen 
afterward. 

1 rt  Pohono,"  from  whom  the  stream  and  the  waterfall  received 

'  their  musical  Indian  name,  is  an  evil  spirit,  whose  breath  is  a 
blighting  and  fatal  wind,  and,  consequently,  is  to  be  dreaded  and 
shunned.  On  this  account,  whenever,  from  necessity,  the  Indians 
have  to  pass  it,  a  feeling  of  distress  steals  over  them,  and  they  fear 
it  as  much  as  the  wandering  Arab  does  the  simooms  of  the  African 
desert ;  they  hurry  past  it  at  the  height  of  their  speed.  To  point 
at  the  waterfall,  when  travelling  in  the  valley,  to  their  minds,  is 
certain  death.  'No  inducement  could  be  offered  sufficiently  large 
to  tempt  them  to  sleep  near  it.  In  fact,  they  believe  that  they 
hear  the  voices  of  those  that  have  been  drowned  there,  perpet- 
ually warning  them  to  shun  "  Pohono." 

How  much  more  desirable  is  it  to  perpetuate  these  expressive 
Indian  names — many  of  which  embody  the  superstitious  and 
highly  imaginative  characteristics  of  the  Indian  mind — than  to 
give  them  Anglicized  ones,  be  they  ever  so  pretty.  We  think  the 
name  of  "  Bridal  Veil  Fall"  is  not  only  by  far  the  most  musical 
and  suitable  of  any  or  of  all  others  yet  given,  but  is  the  only  one 
that  is  worthy  of  the  object  named ;  and  yet,  we  confess  that  we 
should  much  prefer  the  beautiful  and  expressive  Indian  name  of 
"Pohono," to  that  of  " Bridal  Veil." 

The  vertical,  and,  at  some  points,  overhanging  mountains  on 
either  side  of  the  Pohono,  possess  quite  as  much  interest  as  the  fall 
itself,  and  add  much  to  the  grandeur  and  magnificence  of  the 
whole  scene.  A  tower-shaped  rock,  about  three  thousand  feet  in 
height,  standing  at  the  south-west  side  of  the  fall,  and  nearly  op- 
posite "  Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah,"  has  on  its  top  a  number  of  projecting 
rocks  that  very  much  resemble  canon.  In  order  to  assist  in  per- 


THE    YO-SEMITE   VALLEY. 


137 


NEAR   VIEW   OF   THE    "POHONO,"   OR  BRIDAL   VEIL   FALL,    940   FEET   HIGH. 

From  a  Photograph  ~by  C.  L.  Weed. 


petuating  the  beautiful  legend  before  given  concerning  that  Indian 
semi-deity,  we  shall  take  the  liberty  of  christening  this  point  Tu- 
tock-ah-nu-lah's  Citadel. 

Other  wild  and  weird-like  points  of  equal  interest  stand  before 
iiSjOn  the  summit  and  among  the  niches  of  every  cliff;  so  that  it 
is  not  this  or  that  particular  rock  that  attracts,  so  much  as  the 
infinite  variety,  all  of  which  are  so  distinctly  different. 

As  the  line  of  shadow  is  rapidly  climbing  the  mountain,  we 
had  better  retrace  our  steps  to  the  hotel. 


128  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

As  we  sit  in  the  stillness  and  twilight  of  evening,  thinking 
over  and  conversing  about  the  wondrous  scenes  our  eves  have 
looked  upon  this  day ;  or  listen,  in  silence,  to  the  deep  music  of 
the  distant  waterfalls,  our  hearts  seem  full  to  overflowing  with  a 
sense  of  the  grandeur,  wildness,  beauty,  and  profoundness  to  be 
felt  and  enjoyed  when  communing  with  the  glorious  works  of 
nature,  which  call  to  mind  those  expressive  lines  of  Moore : — 

"  The  earth  shall  be  my  fragrant  shrine  I 
My  temple,  Lord !  that  arch  of  thine ; 
My  censer's  breath,  the  mountain  airs; 
And  silent  thoughts,  my  only  prayers." 

THIRD   DAY   IN    YO-SEMITE   VALLEY. 

By  this  time  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  all  of  our  party  have  been 
sufficiently  toughened  by  exercise  and  rest  to  endure  the  fatigue 
of  the  trip  we  are  about  to  take.  Fortified  with  a  substantial 
lunch  and  other  etceteras,  let  us  now  set  out  for 

THE  "  PI-WY-ACK"  OR  VERNAL,  AND  YO-WI-YE,  OR  NEVADA,  FALLS. 

It  is  always  well  to  start  as  early  as  we  conveniently  can,  with- 
out hurrying  ourselves  too  much,  as  by  this  course  we  obtain 
many  advantages  that  need  not  now  be  enumerated;  therefore,  as 
soon  as  the  sun  has  begun  to  wink  at  us  from  among  the  pine- 
trees  on  the  mountain-tops,  we  may  as  well  start  on  our  visit  to 
the  Pi-wy-ack,  or  Vernal,  and  the  Yo-wi-ye  or  Nevada,  falls. 

At  first,  we  pass  round  the  granite  points  that  extend  into  the 
level  meadow  land,  just  above  the  hotel ;  then,  as  we  advance, 
the  valley  gradually  widens,  and,  with  the  oak-trees  growing  at 
irregular  intervals  of  distance,  reminds  us  of  the  beautiful  parks 
of  Europe,  especially  those  of  England  and  France. 

On  our  right  is  a  high  wall  of  granite,  nearly  perpendicular, 
to  the  height  of  three  thousand  seven  hundred  and  forty  feet- 
down  which  several  small,  silvery,  ribbon-like  streams  are  leaping. 
Here  and  there,  from  the  sides  of  this  vast  mountain,  a  single  tree 
or  shrub  is  standing  alone.  Surmounting  one  of  the  lower  points 
of  rock,  several  rugged  peaks  unite,  and  resemble  an  immense 


THE    YO-SEMITE    VALLEY 


129 


hospice,  which  has,  not  inappropriately,  been  named  Mount  St. 
Bernard.  Another  has  a  distant  kinship,  in  form  at  least,  with 
a  bear.  Another,  a  huge  head.  In  fact,  you  can  look  at  the 
various  parts  of  the  mountain,  and  trace  a  resemblance  to  a  hun- 


RIVER    SCENE   JUST    BELOW    THE    BRIDGE,    LOOKING    EAST. 

From  a  Photograph  by  C.  L.  Weed. 

dred  different  objects  ;  and  as  the  shadows  change,  when  the  day 
advances,  to  as  many  more.  On  our  left  stand  the  Royal  Arches, 
Washington  Tower,  North  and  South  Domes,  and  other  objects 
of  absorbing  interest.  Numerous  majestic  trees  overshadow  the 
9 


130  SCENES   IN    CALIFOKNIA. 

way,  such  as  the  yellow  pine  (Pinus  ponderosd),  the  cedar  (Libo- 
cedrus  decurrens),  the  black  oak  (Quercus  sonomensis),  with 
here  and  there  a  Douglas  spruce  (Abies  Douglasii),  and  an 
occasional  dogwood  or  two.  By  the  streams  can  be  found  the 
balm  of  Gilead  (Populous  balsamifera)  and  the  alder  (Alnus 
virinis)  in  considerable  abundance.  On  the  debris  piles  large 
numbers  of  the  live  oak  (Quercus  chrysolepis)  and  maples  (Acer 
macrophyllum)  are  found.  Shrubs  of  various  kinds  are  abun- 
dant, among  the  most  beautiful  and  most  fragrant  stands  the 
white  azalea  (Azalea  occidentalis) ;  then  comes  the  pungent- 
flavored  and  aromatic  laurel  (Tetr  anther  a  Calif  or  nica), — the 
latter  is  occasionally  seen  six  inches  in  diameter,  and  could  be 
classed  among  trees, — and  many  others.  Flowers  of  many  kinds 
are  abundant,  such  as  the  yellow  and  purple  evening  primroses, 
larkspur  (CEnotliera\  and  also  a  very  pretty  pink  everlasting 
-(Spraguea).  But  to  give  a  complete  list  of  flowers  would  fill  a 
volume. 

About  two  miles  above  Hutchings'  we  arrive  at,  and  continue 
up,  the  southern  bank  of  the  Merced,  beneath  a  bower  of  trees 
and  shrubs,  over  the  roughest  and  rockiest  portion  of  the  trail. 
Formerly  visitors  used  to  tie  their  horses  here,  and  make  the 
ascent  on  foot,  but  some  recent  improvements  now  induce  visitors 
to  ride  nearly  up  to  the  Vernal  Fall.  On  our  left  the  river  forms 
a  foaming  cataract  to  the  very  foot  of  the  fall,  and  the  thundering 
boom  of  its  waters  rises  at  times  above  the  sound  of  human 
voices. 

Presently  we  arrive  at  a  stream  of  very  respectable  size,  which, 
having  made  the  leap  of  the  Tu-lool-we-ack  Fall,  about  a  mile  and 
half  above,  has  hurried  down  the  "  South  Canon,"  and  now  runs 
directly  across  our  path.  If  the  water  is  not  too  high  we  can  ford 
it  with  safety ;  but  if  it  is,  it  will  be  inexpedient  to  attempt  it.  In 
the  latter  event  we  will  here  tie  our  horses,  and  crossing  a  log- 
formed  bridge,  make  the  remainder  of  the  ascent  on  foot. 

Upward  and  onward  we  climb ;  and,  after  passing  a  bold  point, 
and  reading  some  of  the  names  inscribed  on  Register  Rock,  we 
obtain,  suddenly,  the  first  sight  of  the  Pi-wy-ack,  or  Yernal 


THE    YOSEMITE    VALLEY. 


131 


Fall.  While  gazing 
its  beauties,  let  ns,  now 
,and  forever,  earnestly 
protest  against  the  per- 
petuation of  any  other  no- 
menclature to  this  won- 
der, than  "Pi-wy-ack," 
the  name  which  is  given 
to  it  by  the  Indians, 
which  means  "  a  shower 
of  sparkling  crystals," 
while  "Venial"  could, 
with  much  more  appro- 
priateness, be  bestowed 
upon  the  name-giver,  as 
the  fall  itself  is  one  vast 
sheet  of  sparkling  brightness  and  snowy  whiteness,  in  which 
there  is  not  the  slightest  approximation,  even  in  the  tint,  to  any 
thing  "  vernal." 

Still  ascending  and  advancing,  we  are  soon  enveloped  in  a 
sheet  of  heavy  spray,  driven  down  upon  us  with  such  force  as  to 
resemble  a  heavy  storm  of  comminuted  rain.  Now,  many  might 
suppose  that  this  would  be  annoying,  but  it  is  not,  although  the 
only  really  unpleasant  part  of  the  trip  is  that  which  we  have  here 
to  take,  on  a  steep  hill-side,  and  through  a  wet,  alluvial  soil,  from 
which,  at  every  footstep,  the  water  spirts  out,  much  to  the  incon- 
venience and  discomfort  of  ladies — especially  of  those  who  wear 


THE  "PI-WY-ACK,"  OR  VERNAL  FALL,  THREE  HUNDRED 
AND  FIFTY  FEET  HIGH. 


132 


SCENES 


CALIFORNIA. 


long  dresses.     As  the  distance  through  this  is  but  short,  it  is  soon 
accomplished,  and  in  a  few  minutes  we  stand  at  the  foot  of  "  The 

Ladders."  Beneath 
a  large,  overhanging 
rock  at  our  right,  is 
a  man  who  takes  toll 
for  ascending  the  lad- 
ders, eats,  and  "  turns 
in  "  to  sleep,  upon  the 
rock.  The  charge  for 
ascending  and  descend- 
ing is  seventy-five, 
cents;  and  as  this  in- 
cludes the  trail  as  well 
as  the  ladders,  the 
charge  is  very  reason- 
able. 

Formerly  there  were 
no  means  of  ascending 
or  descending  this  per- 
pendicular wall  of  rock, 
except  with  ropes  fas- 
tened to  an  oak-tree 
that  grows  in  one  of 
the  interstices;  and 
that,  too,  at  great  per- 
sonal risk  and  incon- 
venience— so  that  but 
few  persons  would  make  the  dangerous  attempt. 

By  the  measurements  of  different  gentlemen  whose  figures  ap- 
proximate, the  height  of  this  fall  is  given  at  three  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  Prof.  J.  D.  Whitney  says  :  "  Our  measurements  give, 
all  the  way,  from  315  to  475  feet."  But  as  the  professor  ascribes 
the  difference  to  the  height  of  the  water,  at  the  various  seasons, 
instead  of,  as  we  think,  to  the  difference  (160  feet)  in  the  calcula- 
tions, we  regret  our  inability  to  concur  in  his  conclusions. 


THE    LADDERS. 


THE    YO-SEMITE    VALLEY. 


THE 


"YO-WI-YE," 


OK   NEVADA   FALL. 


Ascending  the  ladders,  we  reach  an  elevated  plateau  of  rock,  on 
the  edge  of  which,  and  about  breast  high,  is  a  natural  wall  of 
granite,  that  seems  to  have  been  constructed  by  nature  for  the 
especial  benefit  and  convenience  of  people  with  weak  nerves,  en- 
abling them  to  lean  upon  it,  and  look  down  over  the  precipice 
into  the  deep  chasm  below. 

The  waters  of  the  river,  which  rush  through  a  narrow  gorge 
above,  with  great  speed  and  power,  here  spread  out  to  the  width 
of  about  sixty-five  feet,  before  shooting  over  the  edge  of  the  fall. 


RIVER  RUSHING  THROUGH  THE  GORGE  ABOVE  THE  PI-WY-ACK  FALL. 

Advancing  gently  and  pleasantly,  we  arrive  at  the  gorge,  before 
alluded  to,  and  as  several  large  pieces  of  burnt  timber  are  proba- 
bly lying  near,  if  we  roll  them  in  upon  the  angry  bosom  of  the 


SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


hurrying  current,  we  shall  find  that  they  are  tossed  about,  and 
borne  along  as  though  they  were  waifs.  After  working  our  way 
over  a  low  point  of  rocks,  we  come  in  sight  of  the  Yo-wi-ye  Fall, 
the  greatest,  yet  not  the  highest  fall,  in  or  near  the  Yo-Semite 


THE    "YO-WI-YE,"    OR   NEVADA   FALL,    700    FEET   IN'   HEIGHT. 
From  a  Photograph  by  C.  L.  Weed. 


THE    YOSEMITE   VALLEY.  135 

Valley,  several  different  measurements  making  it  about  seven 
hundred  feet  in  height. 

When  the  base  of  this  fall  is  reached,  or  as  nearly  so  as  the 
eddying  clouds  of  spray  will  permit,  it  appears  to  be  different  in 
shape  to  either  of  the  others ;  for,  although  it  shoots  over  the 
precipice  in  a  curve,  and  descends  almost  perpendicularly  for 
four-fifths  of  the  distance,  it  then  strikes  the  smooth  surface  of 
the  mountain,  and  spreads  and  forms  a  beautiful  sheet  of  silvery 
whiteness,  about  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet  in  width. 

This  point  is  about  as  far  as  visitors  generally  go,  although  some 
more  enthusiastic  spirits  work  their  way  by  the  side  of  the  smooth 
mountain  wall — that  here  prevents  further  progress,  without  con- 
siderable toil  and  difficulty — to  the  top  of  the  fall;  and  as  we 
expect  the  courteous  reader  is  of  the  latter  class,  we  will,  with  his 
consent,  make  one  of  the  party  to  see  what  we  can  find. 

By  the  enterprise  of  the  commissioners,  who  have  constructed  a 
rustic  bridge  over  the  gorge  below,  we  are  enabled  to  make  the 
ascent  to  the  wondrous  scenes  above  by  an  easier  and  safer  route. 
Let  us,  therefore,  retrace  our  steps  to  the  bridge ;  and,  standing  on 
its  center,  look  for  a  moment  into  the  angry  stream.  If  the  sun  is 
brilliantly  shining,  the  rushing  waters  above  the  bridge  will  be 
transformed  below  into  a  cascade  of  diamonds.  As  those  gems 
are,  unmistakably,  of  the  u  purest  wrater,"  there  would  seem  to  be 
a  reckless  disregard  for  the  danger  "  from  chipping,"  to  be  appre- 
hended from  this  method  of  transportation.  But  as  all  the  chips 
seem  to  be  carefully  gathered  and  re-run,  let  us  not  linger  here, 
but  attempt 

THE    ASCENT    OF    THE    CAP     OF    LIBERTY. 

This  is  the  name  given  to  the  striking  mass  of  almost  perpendic- 
ular rock  that  stands  boldly  out  at  the  north  side  of  the  Nevada 
Fall.  Its  altitude  above  the  foot  of  the  fall  is  estimated  at  about 
two  thousand  feet.  The  singularity  and  majesty  of  its  presence 
are  impressed  upon  every  beholder.  Numerous  aspirants,  or  their 
friends,  have  attempted  to  attach  individual  names  to  it,  such  as 
" Mount  Francis,"  " Mount  Gwin,"  "Bellows  Butte,"  "  Mount 


136  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

Broderick,"  and  others ;  but  these  names,  however  highly  thought 
of  in  the  circles  among  which  their  owners  lived,  have  not  been 
respected  in  connection  with  this  magnificent  formation. 

The  best  route  for  us  to  take  in  order  to  reach  its  lofty  summit, 
wrill  be  on  its  western  side.  Avoiding  the  mouth  of  the  precipi- 
tous ravine  up  which  our  course  runs,  let  us  strike  across  the  first 
mountain  bench,  and,  threading  our  way  among  bushes,  make  for 
and  keep  up  the  ravine  named,  until  we  reach  a  grassy  meadow 
at  its  head.  Then  it  will  be  readily  seen  there  is  but  one  way  by 
which  the  top  of  the  "  Cap  "  can  be  gained.  That  followed,  let 
us  suppose  ourselves  standing  upon  its  grand  old  crown. 

Here  our  first  attention  will  be  called  to  a  group  of  large  juniper- 
trees  (Juniper  occidentalis),  two  of  which  are  ten  feet  each  in 
diameter.  There  are  also  a  few  stunted  Douglas  spruce  trees,  and 
several  dwarf  shrubs  belonging  to  some  variety  of  oak  with  which 
we  are  unacquainted.  How  they  find  sustenance,  or  even  foot- 
hold, on  such  an  apparently  barren  mass  of  naked  granite  is  a  mys- 
tery to  us.  Down,  deep  down,  in  the  little  Yo-Semite  Valley, 
meanders  the  Merced.  The  tall  pines,  everywhere  abundant, 
appearing  about  the  size  of  ordinary  walking-canes.  But,  if  we 
have  courage,  let  us  go  to  its  southeastern  corner,  and  holding 
firmly  to  the  rock,  look  down  the  almost  vertical  precipice  upon 
the  Nevada  Fall.  All  will  confess  that  this  sight  alone  repays 
us.  So  that  the  Yo-Semite  Fall,  the  Sentinel  Dome,  Mount  Starr 
King,  and  above  all,  the  apparently  omnipresent  South  Dome, 
with  numerous  other  wonderful  mountains,  are  all  thrown  into  the 
bargain.  Descending  to  the  meadow  land  at  the  back  of  the  Cap, 
let  us  take  a  hasty  glance  at  the  little  Yo-Semite  Yalley  and 

THE  COUNTRY  ABOVE  THE  YO-WI-YE  FALL. 

Our  course  now  lies  up  and  across  the  numerous  spurs  that  hem 
in,  or  rather  that  almost  monopolize  and  form  the  so-called  valley, 
with  the  exception,  perhaps,  of  from  a  third  to  a  half  mile  on  the 
sides  of  the  stream.  Numerous  clumps  of  fir-trees  and  pines  stand 
here  and  there  ;  some  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  some  in  moist 
pV«es,  that,  during  a  short  season  of  the  year,  are  shallow  lakes. 


THE    YO-SEMITE    VALLEY.  137 

Numerous  grouse  and  mountain  quail  whirr  past  us — simply,  as 
we  think,  perhaps,  to  torment  us,  as  on  this  occasion  most  likely 
we  have  no  gun,  knowing  that  at  other  times  when  we  had,  we 
found  no  use  for  one.  By  the  side  of  every  little  hillock,  espe- 
cially at  the  bottom  of  the  spurs,  there  are  deer  trails,  deeply  worn, 
and  full  of  recent  imprints  of  their  feet;  also  those  of  the  cinna- 
mon and  grizzly  bear.  On  the  limited  portions  of  alluvial  soil,  a 
thick  growth  of  short,  fine  grass  is  growing,  resembling  the  buffalo 
grass  of  the  plains.  On  the  low  ridges  or  spurs  in  the  valley, 
there  is  also  an  abundance  of  tuft  or  bunch  grass. 

The  mountains  on  either  side  of  this  valley,  are,  if  possible, 
more  singular  than  those  of  the  great  Yo-Semite  Valley,  on  account 
of  the  formation  being  distinctly  different.  For  instance,  a  large 
and  uneven,  yet  sugar-loaf  shaped  rock,  at  its  eastern  extremity, 
near  another  waterfall,  has  a  wide  belt  of  reddish,  fine-grained 
granite  near  its  base,  and  which  extends  from  the  one  side  to  the 
other  ;  similar  layers  of  rock  continue,  although  of  different  kinds 
and  colors,  to  the  very  summit  of  the  rock,  while  that  in  the  valley 
below  is  of  gray  granite  almost  exclusively.  The  waterfall  at  the 
head  of  this  valley,  and  two  and  a  half  miles  from  the  Yo-wi-ye, 
might  more  properly  be  denominated  a  cascade,  as  the  main  body 
of  water  forming  the  river  rushes  down  an  inclined  plane  of  about 
150  feet  in  length,  at  an  angle  of  about  3TP.  The  mountains  on 
either  side  being  lofty,  rugged,  pine-studded,  and  precipitous,  add 
much  to  the  grandeur  as  well  as  beauty  of  the  scene. 

On  reaching  the  top,  near  the  edge  of  the  fall,  we  find  the  rock 
very  smooth  and  bare  for  many  rods,  with  here  and  there  a  stunted 
tree,  living  on  a  short  allowance  of  soil  in  a  narrow  crevice.  At 
the  back  of  this  bare  rock  is  a  limited  forest  of  pines  and  firs. 
Huge  boulders  and  masses  of  granite  lie  scattered  here  and  there. 
The  river,  for  some  distance  above,  forms  a  series  of  rapids.  As 
a  tree  has  lodged  across  the  stream  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from 
the  fall,  and  the  smooth  rock  to  the  eastward  forms  another  bar- 
rier to  our  progress  in  that  direction,  let  us  cross  to  the  edge  of 
the  Merced,  and  take  one  brief  glance  down  into  the  gulf  into 
which  the  Yo-wi-ye  (Nevada)  is  leaping. 


138  SCENES    IX    CALIFORNIA. 

Lying  down  upon  a  flat  and  solid  rock,  apparently  formed — - 
like  the  parapet  at  the  head  of  the  Pi-wy-ack  (or  Yernal)  Fall — 
for  the  purpose  of  enabling  the  beholder  safely  to  see  those  won- 
derful sights,  let  us  have  one  good  look  at  the  majesty  and 
glory  beneath  us.  The  fall  as  it  daringly  leaps  its  rocky  rim, 
soon  strikes  the  unvertical  wall,  and  apparently  forms  into  an  im- 
mense mass  of  wavy,  lacy  folds,  composed  from  top  to  bottom  of 
sparkling  diamonds,  now  swaying  to  this  side,  now  draping  the 
other.  The  base — as  if  to  make  the  whole  scene  a  miniature 
heaven,  and,  if  possible,  convey  to  man  some  faint  idea  of  the 
outer  footstool  of  the  Almighty  throne — is  spanned  with  rainbows; 
while  the  beautiful  river  hurries  on  heedlessly,  the  grand  moun- 
tains around  stand  sentinel  carelessly,  and,  as  the  mantle  of  night 
will  soon  embrace  them  in  its  sombre  folds,  and  cover  up  and 
change  it  into  u  weird  spirituality,"  unless  we  wish  to  take  lodg- 
ings under  its  cold  coverlet,  let  us  up  and  be  going. 

FOURTH    DAT    IN    THE    YO-SEMITE    VALLEY. 

After  the  feast  as  well  as  the  fatigues  of  yesterday — as  we  have 
but  one  life — perhaps  it  would  be  a  good  plan  to  rest  to-day,  and 
review  and  digest  the  scenes  witnessed.  But,  if  a  majority  think 
otherwise,  let  us  to-day  pay  a  visit  to 

THE  TU-LOOL-WE-ACK,  OR  SOUTH  CANON  FALL. 

It  will  be  remembered  that,  in  riding  up  the  uneven  trail  to 
the  Yernal  and  Nevada  falls,  we  crossed  a  stream  of  considerable 
volume,  divided  into  two  or  three  branches  ;  this  came  down  the 
Tu-lool-wTe-ack,*  or  South  Canon.  About  two  miles  above  the 
crossing  alluded  to,  up  the  rough  bed  of  the  stream,  we  come  to 

*  Prof.  Whitney  has  given  this  fall  and  canon  the  name  of  "  Illilouette,1'  Thinking,  as 
this  was  a  Yo-semite  Indian  name,  that  we  might  be  in  error  in  its  proper  pronunci- 
ation, we  have  carefully  questioned  the  Indians  concerning  it ;  and  while  every  one, 
without  exception,  calls  it  Tu-lool-we-ack,  the  name  of  "  Illilouette  "  is  entirely  unknown 
among  them.  The  difference  in  the  pronunciation  of  Indian  names  by  Americans  re- 
sults from  the  difficulty  of  catching  and  rendering  the  exact  pronunciation  of  the 
vowels. 


THE    YO-SEMITE    VALLEY. 


139 


another  large  fall,  which,  although  but  seldom  seen,  it  will  be 
well  for  us  to  visit. 

This  crossing  is  about  three  miles  above  Hutchings',  and  is 
the  usual  place  of  leaving  animals,  at  which  point  we  leave  the 
trail  and  soon  find  that,  poor  as  it  undoubtedly  is,  we  are  prepared 
to  accord  to  it  any  amount  of  excellence,  in  comparison  with  the 
steep,  boulder-filled,  and  trailless  canon  of  the  South  Fork. 

Here  we  have  to  stoop  or  creep  beneath  low  arches ;  there  we 
assist  each  other  to  climb  a  rock ;  yonder  a  spur  shoots  out  from  the 
mountain  to  the  very  margin  of  the  stream  and  forces  us  to  cross  it. 
At  such  places,  fortunately,  the  few  who  have  preceded  us  have 
bridged  the  river,  by  felling  trees  over  it,  thus  enabling  us  to  fol- 


THE  SOUTH  DOME  AS  SEEN  FROM  THE  SOUTH  CAXOX. 

From  a  Photograph  by  C.  L.  Weed. 


140 


SCENES   IN    CALIFORNIA. 


low  in  their  footsteps  with  great  advantage  to  ourselves.  Minia- 
ture mountains  of  loose  rocks  seem  to  be  piled  on  each  other,  still 
higher  and  higher  as  we  advance. 

About  a  mile  and  a  half  above  the  confluence  of  the  South  with 
the  Middle  Fork,  we  emerge  from  a  heavy  growth  of  timber  into 
an  open  and  treeless  chasm,  the  bed  of  which  is  covered  with 
large  angular  rocks,  bounded  on  either  side  with  vertical  walls  of 
time-worn  and  rain-stained  granite.  On  the  uneven  tops  of  these, 
a  few  of  ths  Douglass  spruce-trees  are  struggling  to  weather  the 
storms  and  live.  From  this  point,  we  obtain  a  fine  distant  view, 
above  the  tops  of  the  lofty  pines,  of  the  Great  South  Dome,  and 
also  of  the  Pi-wy-ack  Fall. 


THE  TU-LOOL-WE-ACK,  OR  SOUTH  FORK   WATERFALL. 
From  a  Photograph  by  C.  L.  Weed. 


.THE    YO-SEMITE    VALLEY. 

About  two  o'clock  P.  M.  (if  we  start  early)  we  reach  the  head 
of  the  canon  and  the  foot  of  the  Tu-lool-we-ack  Fall.  This  caiion 
here  is  suddenly  terminated  by  an  irregular,  horse-shoe  shaped 
end,  the  sides  and  circle  of  which,  on  the  one  side,  are  perpendic- 
ular, and  on  the  other  so  much  so  as  to  be  inaccessible  without 
great  danger  of  slipping,  and  consequently  requiring  great  care. 

This  waterfall  is  about  five  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height, 
which,  after  shooting  over  the  precipice,  meets  with  no  obstacle 
to  break  its  descent,  until  it  nearly  reaches  the  basin  into  which 
it  falls.  It  is  a  fine  sheet  of  water,  of  about  the  same  volume  as 
the  Yo-Semite  (four  hundred  gallons  per  second),  at  the  time  we 
visited  and  measured  it.  As  we  had  no  instruments  for  ascertain- 
ing the  altitude  of  the  Tu-lool-we-ack,  of  course  the  above  is  only 
given  as  its  approximate  height. 

The  engraving  given  of  this,  presents  a  side  section  only,  as  the 
distance  across  the  caiion,  opposite  the  fall,  not  being  over  one 
hundred  and  fifty  yards,  is  altogether  too  short  to  allow  the  instru- 
ment to  take  in  the  whole  front  view  on  one  picture. 

Our  fatiguing  ascent  having  occupied  the  greater  portion  of  the 
day,  and  the  sunshine  having  already  departed  from  the  west  side 
of  the  caiion,  and  as  we  are  not  prepared  to  pass  the  night  here, 
our  work  and  return  has  to  be  conducted  with  brevity  and  dis- 
patch ;  consequently,  the  moment  we  have  satisfied  our  minds  we 
had  better  commence  the  descent.  On  our  way  down,  we  secure 
another  good  view  of  Tis-sa-ack  (the  South  Dome),  from  the  south 
canon,  and  which,  from  this  point,  presents  a  singular  conical 
shape  of  that  mountain  which  is  not  to  be  seen  from  any  other 
point;  and  arrive  at  our  quarters  at  the  hotel  in  safety  just  after 
dark,  well  pleased  with  the  result  of  our  difficult  undertaking. 

While  discussing  the  viands  of  our  much  relished  evening's 
repast  (for  after  such  a  jaunt  our  appetites  will  supply  the  most 
desirable  of  condiments),  we  venture  to  predict  that  before  very 
long  the  rapidly  increasing  travel  to  Yo-Sernite  will  not  only  call 
for,  but  justify,  the  expenditure  of  considerable  sums  of  money  by 
the  State,  or  some  one  else,  in  the  making  of  trails  to  open  up  all 
such  points  of  interest  as  this,  so  that  they  can  be  visited  on 


142  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

' 

horseback,  and  consequently  with  so  much  additional  pleasure. 
Now,  it  requires  a  strong  frame,  well  trained  by  exercise,  to 
accomplish  such  fatiguing  undertakings.  Of  the  reward  after 
success,  even  with  the  present  labor,  there  will  be  no  question. 

FIFTH    DAY    IN    THE    YO-SEMITE    VALLEY. 

It  is  not  for  us  to  say  how  many  days  should  be  spent  in  Yo- 
Semitc.  Nor,  whether  there  should  be  alternating  days  of  activity 
and  quiet — these  must  be  determined  by  individual  tastes  and 
convenience.  Experience  has  taught  us  that  our  capacity  for 
enduring  comfort  (without  complaining),  united  with  an  undying 
love  for  the  beautiful,  leads  us  occasionally  to  prefer  luxuriating 
siestas,  in  the  shadow  of  trees,  day-dreaming  and  resting ;  short 
strolls  among  picturesque  "  little  bits "  of  landscape ;  mental 
photograph  taking  of  these  unparalleled  walls  of  granite ;  trout 
fishing ;  fruit  gathering^  and  all  such  agreeable  methods  (as  the 
uncontrollably  active,  or  the  unappreciative  mind  would  suggest) 
of  "killing  time."  But  if  the  majority  say  let  us  travel — let  us 
to-day — 

RIDE    TO    MOUNT    BEATITUDE    AND    INSPIRATION    POINT. 

We  immediately  concur.  It  is  especially  desirable  that  those 
who  have  accompanied  us  thus  far  by  Big  Oak  Flat,  and  who, 
from  whatever  cause,  prefer  returning  the  same  way,  should  be 
with  us  on  this  trip.  For  if  possibly  we  exclude  the  scene  from 
"  Glacial  Point,"  or  from  the  summit  of  the  "  Three  Brothers," 
there  is  nothing  in  this  world  known  to  man  that  can  equal  the 
views  from  "Mount  Beatitude"  and  "Inspiration  Point."  If, 
however,  it  has  been  determined  to  return  via  the  Mariposa  grove 
of  big  trees  and  Mariposa, — and  we  emphatically  hope  that  it  has, 
inasmuch  as  all  tourists  who  can,  should  arrive  one  way  and 
depart  the  other, — these  glorious  sights  can  be  witnessed  on  the 
route  homeward,. without  an  especial  visit. 

On  our  ride  down  the  valley,  almost  immediately  opposite 
Pompompasus  (the  "  Three  Brothers  "),  on  our  left  there  is  upon 
the  face  of  the  mountain  a  white  irregular  spot,  from  which, 


THE    YO-SEM1TE    VALLEY.  143 

althougli  of  apparently  insignificant  size,  the  debris  covered 
several  acres.  Back  of  this  point,  high  up  toward  the  top,  Mr.  E. 
J.  Muybridge,  in  1868,  discovered  a  remarkable  fissure  in  the  wall 
rock.  "  It  is,"  he  says,  "  one  thousand  feet  deep,  five  feet  wide 
at  the  top  and  front,  and  gradually  grjwing  narrower  as  it  goes 
down  and  back  into  the  mountain.  Several  stones  have  fallen 
into  it,  and  lodged  about  half  way  down." 

Near  here  can  be  seen  some  of  the  eifects  of  the  great  storm  of 
Dec.  23,  1867j  when  the  whole  valley  was  a  broad  foaming  river  ; 
and  rocks  weighing  many  tons  were  hurled  down  these  mountain 
torrents  with  terrible  power  :  the  talus  when  w ashed  down  filled 
up  ravines,  as  you  see,  and  buried  the  base  of  trees  from  two  to 
twenty  feet  high.  In  the  meadow  opposite,  within  eleven  acres  of 
ground,  there  are  forty-two  large  pine  and  cedar  trees  piled  one  upon 
the  other.  We  have  already  counted  one  hundred  and  thirty-one 
of  those  noble  tenants  of  the  valley,  that  were  prostrated  by  the 
one  single  storm  ; — enough,  if  cut  into  lumber,  to  construct  all 
improvements  wanted  in  the  valley  for  many  years.  Others  shot 
over  the  Yo-Semite  Fall,  and  after  making  a  surging  swirl  or  two 
struck  the  unyielding  granite,  and  broke  into  thousands  of  frag- 
mentary pieces.  By  evidences  everywhere  apparent  there  has 
been  no  storm  to  equal  it  during  the  present  century. 

River  views  ;  forest  openings ;  rocky  points  ;  waterfalls ;  indis- 
tinct animals,  heads  of  men  and  women  outlined  in  projection,  or 
shadow,  or  water  stain  upon  the  vertical  walls  of  granite,  with 
numerous  other  objects  to  attract  and  interest,  are  all  the  way  to 
the  very  foot  of  the  mountain.  Then  comes  the  climb.  Let  us 
travel  easily,  and  slowly,  and  while  the  horses  breathe,  we  can 
catch  glimpses  and  foretastes  of  our  expected  reward  when  the 
sroal  of  our  desires  is  reached  at  the  top. 

o  -1- 

Up,  up  we  climb,  bench  after  bench,  stretch  after  stretch,  with 
fine  views  all  the  way,  until  at  last,  we  arrive  at  the  turning  off 
place  for  u  Mount  Beatitude."  Let  us  now  tie  our  horses,  and 
while  they  rest,  walk  out  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  to  the 
wonderful  sight. 

There  is  a  truism  that  "  Some  things  can  be  done  as  well  as 


1:1! 


I  I1 


I  I 


, 

O     § 


THE    YO-SEMITE    VALLEY.  145 

others."  In  our  opinion  a  full  description  of  this  scene  is  not  one 
of  them.  A  passage  in  the  good  book  says,  "  Eye  hath  not  seen, 
neither  hath  ear  heard,  neither  hath  it  entered  into  the  heart  of 
man  to  conceive  what  there  is  laid  up  in  heaven  for  those  who 
love  and  serve  God."  Now,  without  wishing  to  detract  from  the 
interesting  inducement  there  so  graphically  pictured  and  offered, 
we  simply  wish  to  apply  the  language  to  those  who  have  the  good 
fortune  to  see  Yo-Semite  from  this  stand-point.  Is  that  satisfac- 
tory ?  We  hope  so,  as  we  can  only  give  a  few  plain  facts  and 
leave  you  to  "do  the  sublime." 

Remember  we  are  standing  on  a  precipice  of  nearly  three 
thousand  feet.  The  whole  valley  and  its  surroundings  are  unrolled 
before  us  like  a  map.  The  river  below  is  as  a  ribbon  of  silver, 
seen  only  at  intervals,  winding  among  the  trees ;  the  trees  resem- 
bling mere  shrubs.  The  grand  old  sides,  and  proud  head,  of 
Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah  loom  grandly  up.  Ditto  the  "  South  Dome," 
and  the  "  Clouds  Best,"  and  the  "  Sentinel  Dome,"  and  the 
"  Sentinel,"  with  any  number  of  others.  In  the  distance  are  many 
snow-covered  peaks  of  the  sierras,  visible  almost  to  their  culmina- 
ting crest.  In  the  foreground,  on  our  left,  is  the  "  Ribbon  Fall," 
three  thousand  three  hundred  feet  above  the  valley  ;  on  our  right 
is  the  Poliono,  or  u  Bridal  Yeil  Fall,"  nine  hundred  and  forty 
feet.  Above  and  back  of  that  stands  the  "  Three  Graces,"  three 
thousand  six  hundred  feet  high.  If  the  storm  has  been  gathering, 
perhaps  we  can  see  it  swoop  down  "  on  the  wings  of  the  wind," 
and  drape  the  whole  landscape  in  cloud.  At  times  the  entire 
valley  is  filled  with  them,  piled  layer  above  layer,  stratum  above 
stratum,  to  the  very  tops  of  the  mountains,  their  edges  sufficiently 
light  to  allow  the  granite  walls  to  be  dimly  revealed. 

Inspiration  Boint  stands  out  and  up  at  a  somewhat  greater 
altitude  than  Mount  Beatitude,  but  although  the  view  of  the  distant 
sierras  is  more  comprehensive,  that  of  the  valley  is  more  limited. 
The  general  characteristics  of  both  being  similar  there  is  no  neces- 
sity for  any  further  remarks.  Therefore  let  us  enjoy  the  scene  in 
peaceful  reflection,  and  when  we  can  say  "  enough,"  let  us  depart 
on  our  winding  way,  and  dream  of  that  we  have  seen. 
10 


146 


SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


SIXTH    DAY    IN    YO-SEMITE    VALLEY. VISIT    TO    THE    TOP    OF    THE 

YO-SEMITE    FALL. 

Those  who  walk  past  and  look  up  at  the  great  Yo-Semite 
Fall,  as  it  shoots  out  over  the  precipice  its  four  hundred  gallons 
every  second  during  the  early  melting  of  the  snows  above ;  or 


VIEW   OF  INDIAN   CANON,  IN   FRONT  OF  THE  HOTEL. 

watch  the  gauzy  clouds  that  float  below  its  summit,  feel  an  in- 
definable longing  to  stand  upon  and  look  down  from  the  top 
of  the  mountain  walls  that  encompass  this  valley ;  to  examine 


THE    YOSEMITE   VALLEY.  14  7 

the  surrounding  country  above,  and  measure  the  width  and  depth  of 
the  Yo-Semite  Creek  below.  Accordingly,  let  us  repair  to  the  foot  of 
an  almost  inaccessible  mountain  gorge,  named  Indian  Canon,  situ- 
ated about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  east  of  the  Yo-Semite  Falls, 
and  nearly  opposite  to  the  hotel,  for  the  purpose  of  making  the 
ascent.  This,  also,  is  a  fatiguing  and  difficult  task,  that  few  have 
ever  undertaken. 

In  order  the  better  to  insure  our  success,  we  must  start  early  in 
the  morning.  The  day  may  prove  to  be  very  warm ;  yet,  after 
fairly  entering  the  canon,  the  trees  and  shrubs  that  grow  between 
the  rocks,  afford  us  a  very  grateful  shelter,  for  a  quarter  of  the 
distance  up,  when  the  almost  vertical  mountain  side  on  our  right 
throws  its  refreshing  shadow  across  the  ascent,  for  the  greater  por- 
tion of  the  remaining  distance. 

Thus  protected,  we  climb  over,  creep  beneath,  or  walk  around, 
the  huge  boulders  that  form  the  bed  of  the  gorge ;  and  which, 
owing  to  their  immense  size,  frequently  compel  us  to  make  a  de- 
tour in  the  sun  to  avoid  them,  and  to  seek  as  easy  an  ascent  as  pos- 
sible in  the  accomplishment  of  this,  our  excessively  fatiguing  task. 

A  cascade  of  considerable  volume  is  leaping  over  this,  dashing 
past  that,  rushing  between  those,  and  gurgling  among  these  rocks, 
affording  us  gratuitous  music,  and  drink,  as  we  climb.  Large  pine 
trees  that  fell  across  the  canon,  during  the  rapid  melting  of  the 
snow,  have  been  lifted  up  and  tossed,  like  a  skiff  by  an  angry  sea, 
to  the  top  of  some  huge  rocks,  and  there  left. 

Onward  and  upward  we  toil,  the  perspiration  rolling  from  our 
brows ;  but  we  are  cheered  and  rewarded  by  the  increasing  novelty 
and  beauty  of  the  scenes  that  are  momentarily  opening  to  our  view 
as  we  ascend. 

About  noon  we  can  reach  the  summit  of  the  mountain.  It  is  im- 
possible to  describe  the  magnificent  panorama  that  is  here  spread 
out  before  us.  Deep,  deep  below,  in  peaceful  repose,  sleeps  the 
valley ;  its  carpet  of  green  cut  up  by  sheets  of  standing  water,  and 
small  brooks  that  run  down  from  every  ravine  and  gorge,  while 
the  serpentine  course  of  the  river  resembles  a  huge  silver  ribbon, 
as  its  sheen  flashes  in  the  sun.  On  its  banks,  and  at  the  foot  of 


148  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

the  mountains  around,  groves  of  pine  trees,  two  hundred  feet  in 
height,  look  like  mere  weeds. 

All  the  hollows  of  the  main  chain  of  the  Sierras,  stretching  to 
the  eastward  and  southward,  apparently  but  a  few  miles  distant, 
are  filled  with  snow,  above  and  out  of  which  sharp  and  bare  saw- 
like  peaks  of  rock  rise, well  defined,  against  the  clear  blue  sky. 
The  south  dome  from  this  elevation,  as  from  the  valley,  is  the 
grandest  of  all  the  objects  in  sight ;  a  conical  mountain  beyond, 
and  a  little  to  the  south  of  the  south  dome,  is  apparently  as  high, 
but  few  points,  even  of  the  summits  of  the  Sierras,  seem  to  be  but 
little  higher  than  it.  * 

The  bare,  smooth  granite  top  of  this  mountain  upon  which  we 
stand,  and  the  stunted  and  storm-beaten  pines  that  struggle  for 
existence  and  sustenance  in  the  seams  of  the  rock,  with  other 
scenes  equally  unprepossessing,  present  a  view  of  savage  sterility 
and  dreariness  that  is  in  striking  contrast  with  the  productive  fer- 
tility of  the  lands  below,  or  the  heavily  timbered  forests  through 
which  we  pass  on  our  way  to  the  valley. 

From  this  ridge,  which  most  probably  is  not  less  than  3,500 
feet  above  the  valley,  we  descend  nearly  1,000  feet,  at  an  easy 
grade,  to  the  Yo-  Semite  River.  The  current  of  this  stream,  for 
half  a  mile  above  the  edge  of  the  falls,  runs  at  the  rate  of  about 
eight  knots  an  hour.  Upon  careful  measurement  with  a  line,  we 
find  it  to  be  thirty-four  and  a  half  feet  in  width,  with  an  average 
depth  of  twelve  inches.  The  gray  granite  rock  over  which  it  runs 
is  very  hard,  and  as  smooth  as  a  sheet  of  ice ;  to  tread  which  in 
safety  great  care  is  needed,  or  before  one  is  aware  of  it, he  will 
find  his  head  where  his  feet  should  be,  and  the  force  of  the  current 
sweeping  him  over  the  falls. 

When,  on  our  return,  we  have  reached  the  top  of  the  ridge  be- 
fore mentioned,  and  again  see  the  wonders  and  glories  that  are 
beyond  us,  all  that  we  seem  to  wish  or  hope  for  is  the  possession  of 
a  single  pound  of  bread,  or  any  other  edibles ;  and  after  building  us  • 
a  fire,  by  which  to  sleep  for  the  night  without  blankets,  that  we 
may  pursue  our  interesting  explorations  to  a  more  satisfactory 
close  on  the  morrow. 


THE    YO-SEMITE    VALLEY.  149 

We  must  not  allow  this  charming  spot  to  detain  us  too  long, 
however,  as  the  descent  will  probably  keep  us  busy  for  at  least 
three  hours ;  and  as  the  uneven  character  of  our  pathless  way 
down  the  canon  will  be  attended  with  both  difficulty  and  danger 
after  dark,  a  liberal  allowance  of  time  will  be  a  good  investment. 
Therefore,  let  us  say,  u  off." 

SEVENTH    DAY    IN    YO-SEMITE. VISIT    TO    THE    FOOT    OF    THE    UPPER 

YO-SEMITE    FALL. 

Every  sight  worth  seeing,  with  a  knowledge  how  to  see  it, 
should  be  known  to  every  visitor/  It  does  not  follow  that  because 
each  one  is  thus  pointed  out,  and  its  attractions  mentioned,  that 
every  one  has  the  strength,  or  the  wish,  or  the  time  to  go  to  see  it. 
That  must  be  determined  according  to  mental  or  bodily  condition, 
and  other  contingencies.  After  journeying  so  far,  all  other  con- 
siderations permitting,  it  will  be  well  that  as  many  scenes  of 
beauty,  or  of  singularity,  or  of  majesty,  should  be  witnessed,  as 
may  be  possible.  There  are  but  few  more  astonishing  and  im- 
pressive than  the  one  planned  out  for  to-day.  Therefore,  hoping 
that  "  circumstances,"  over  which  we  are  supposed  to  have  some 
control,  are  on  our  side,  let  us  make  the  attempt. 

Leaving  behind  all  unnecessary  clothing,  but  taking  some  little 
refreshment,  let  us  cross  the  bridge,  and  striking  out  over  the 
meadow  in  a  northerly  direction,  climb  the  debris  on  the 
opposite  side.  Arriving  at  the  first  bench  of  the  mountain,  let  us 
work  our  way  along  it,  almost  to  the  upper  edge  of  the  lower  Yo- 
Semite  Fall.  The  surging  cataract  at  our  side,  and  the  compre- 
hensive view  into  and  around  the  valley,  at  this  point  alone, 
amply  repay  us  already  for  our  trouble.  The  garden,  trees,  bridge, 
river,  house,  and  farm -buildings ;  the  diminutive  cattle  and  horses, 
and  men  and  women,  all  seem  smaller ;  while  the  walls  that  sur- 
round us  appear  larger  and  higher,  and  more  weird-like  and 
wonderful. 

Let  us  not  linger,  however,  too  long ;  but,  threading  our  way 
upward,  among  stunted  live  oaks  and  manzanita  bushes  that  grow 
in  a  gently-ascending  crevice  of  the  mountain,  and  give  us  foot- 


150  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

hold  and  protection,  until  we  have  surmounted  its  top,  and 
stand,  awed,  in  the  immediate  presence  of  such  untold  and  bewil- 
dering majesty  as  that  now  rewarding-  our  toil.  Alas !  who  can 
describe  it?  Who  tell  of  its  glories,  its  wonders,  its  beauties?  A 
simple,  realizing  idea  merely,  is  almost  next  to  impossible. 

The  fall,  very  naturally,  first  attracts  our  attention.  That  it  is 
an  avalanche  of  water  about  to  bury  us  up,  or  sweep  us  into  the 
abyss  beneath,  is  the  apparently  irresistible  first  impression.  By 
degrees  we  take  courage,  and,  climbing  the  watery  mass  with  our 
eye,  discern  its  remarkable  changes  and  forms.  Now  it  would  seem 
that  numerous  bands  of  fun-loving  fairies  have  undisputed  posses- 
sion, each  of  whom  had  set  out  for  a  frolic ;  and,  assuming  the 
shape  of  a  watery  rocket,  have  entered  the  fall ;  and,  after  making 
the  leap,  are  now  playing  "  Hide-and-Seek  "  with  each  other ;  now 
chasing,  now  catching  ;  then,  with  retreating  surprises,  disappear- 
ing from  view,  and  re-forming,  or  changing,  shoot  again  into  sight. 
While  the  \vind,  as  if  shocked  at  such  playful  irreverence,  takes 
hold  of  the  white  diamond  mass,  and  lifts  it  aside  like  a  curtain  ; 
when  each  rocket-formed  fairy,  leaping  down  from  its  folds,  dis- 
appears from  our  eyes  and  becomes  lost  among  rainbows  and 
clouds. 

The  first  great  vertical  leap  of  this  fall  is  sixteen  hundred  feet — 
the  highest  in  any  portion  of  the  globe  yet  known  to  man.  The 
wall  of  granite  at  its  back,  although  less  than  half  the  height  of 
Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah,  is  scarcely  less  impressive  when  we  stand  almost 
immediately  beneath  it.  The  pine-tree  that  grows  at  the  top  of  the 
shrubby  point,  east  of  the  stream,  although  apparently  but  a  mere 
speck,  is  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  in  height. 

During  the  winter  large  quantities  of  ice  form  each  night  at 
the  sides  of  the  fall,  and  being  immediately  opposite  the  east,  the 
rays  of  the  morning  sun  soon  loosen  them,  when  they  fall  with  a 
loud  boom,  and  the  opposite  walls  catch  and  re-echo  the  sound 
until  the  whole  valley  seems  filled  with  its  reverberating  peals. 

This  is  not  all.  The  descending  water,  by  displacing  the  air 
around  it,  creates  an  immense  vacuum,  and  the  atmosphere  above, 
for  a  large  circumference,  rushing  in  to  fill  it,  makes  almost  a 


THE    YO-SEMITK    VALLEY.  151 

tornado  in  its  immediate  circle.  The  result  is,  that  when  snow  is 
falling,  it  is  drawn  from  quite  a  distance  into  this  vacuum,  and 
uniting  with  the  ice  deposited  at  the  foot  of  the  fall,  forms  an 
immense  depth  of  congealed  snow  and  ice,  of  from  three  hundred 
to  four  hundred  feet.  When  the  spring  thaw  commences  in  good 
earnest,  the  large  stream  played  from  above  upon  that  mass  of 
ice,  soon  wears  out  a  funnel-shaped  hollow,  into  which  it  falls, 
and,  after  striking,  rebounds  upward  from  five  to  seven  hundred 
feet,  filling  the  whole  space  at  the  left  with  heavy  clouds  of  spray. 
The  sun,  shining  upon  these,  paints  them  with  all  the  colors  of 
the  rainbow  ;  and  when  one  gust  of  spray  drives  stronger  than 
another  into  this  beautiful  mass,  the  colors  are  made  to  run  and 
intermix,  until  the  whole  scene  is  beyond  description  one  of  the 
most  gorgeous  and  overpowering. 

Beneath  the  upper  fall,  there  is  a  cave,  of  some  thirty-five  or 
forty  feet  in  depth,  from  its  face.  Some  few  persons,  more  ven- 
turesome than  prudent,  have  run  into  this  when  the  wind  has 
lifted  the  entire  body  of  falling  water  to  one  side.  But  it  is  a 
"  risky  "  experiment ;  for,  in  addition  to  the  danger  of  its  return 
to  its  vertical  position,  thus  cutting  off  all  chances  of  retreat,  the 
whole  cave  is  densely  filled  with  comminuted  spray,  which  renders 
breathing  almost  impossible. 

The  top  of  the  fall  can  be  reached  by  the  steep  canon  on  the 
west,  when  the  waters  of  Yo-Semite  are  low  enough  to  permit 
crossing.  But  owing  to  a  dense  growth  of  shrubbery,  bent  for- 
ward and  downward  by  winter  snows,  its  ascent  would  be 
attended  with  difficulty,  arid  perhaps  with  sundry  rendings  of  the 
garments. 

Still  this  has  been  several  times  successfully  accomplished  by 
enterprising  tourists ;  when,  after  crossing  Yo-Semite  above  the 
fall,  they  have  returned  to  the  valley  by  Indian  Caiiori. 

EIGHTH    DAY    IN    YO-SEMITE. CLIMB    TO    THE    TOP    OF    GLACIAL   POINT 

AND    SENTINEL    DOME. 

Supposing  that  exercise  is  toughening  us  into  the  endurance  of 
almost  any  reasonable  amount  of  physical  fatigue,  and  that  the 


162 


SCENES    IX    CALIFORNIA. 


great  sights  witnessed  much  more  than  compensate  us  for  the  toil 
expended  in  reaching  them,  let  us  set  out  at  once  for  the  new 
points  above  indicated — at  least  in  imagination  : — for  if  any  of  us 
wish  to  see  Yo-Semite  in  its  glory,  from  a  precipice  of  nearly  four 
thousand  feet,  and,  by  climbing  to  the  top  of  the  Sentinel  Dome 
look  upon  nearly  every  prominent  peak  of  the  sierras  for  a  dis- 
tance of  fifty  miles,  we  had  better  not  stay  behind.  Leaving  the 
hotel,  we  take  the  same  course  for  about  a  mile  that  we  did  when 
on  our  way  to  the  Vernal  and  Nevada  falls. 

As  our  feet  fall  on  the  flower-covered  and  beautiful,  though  not 
very  fertile  bottom-lands  of  the  upper  part  of  the  valley,  arid  we 
thread  our  way  through  a  labyrinth  of  oak,  pine,  maple,  cotton- 
wood,  and  other  trees,  the  mountain  wTalls  on  either  side  throw 
their  awe-inspiring  and  heavy  shadows  over  us,  and  make  our 
hearts  to  leap  with  wild  emotion  and  new  pleasure,  as  though  we 
stood  upon  enchanted  ground,  and  all  the  scenes  upon  which  we 
look  are  the  magical  creations  of  some  wonder-working  genii. 


VIEW  OF  NORTH  AND  SOUTH  DOMES,  "TO-COY  M"  AND  "TIS-SA-ACK,"  FROM  THE  VALLEY. 


THE    YO-SEMITE    VALLEY.  15.3 

"A  thin  mist  is  lying,"  as  Mr.  Tirrel  so  beautifully  remarks, 
"  upon  the  valley,  and  stealing  up  the  mountain  sides.  The  cliffs 
upon  our  left  are  all  in  deep  shadow,  the  outline  of  their  summits 
cutting  darkly  and  strongly  against  the  brilliant  light  of  the 
unclouded  sky.  Great  streams  of  sunlight  come  pouring  through 
the  openings  in  the  cliffs,  illuminating  long,  radiating  belts  of 
mist,  which  extend  clear  across  the  valley,  and  are  lost  among  the 
confusion  of  rock  and  foliage  forming  the  debris  on  the  opposite 
side.  Directly  in  front  of  us,  and  about  three  miles  distant,  is 
the  South  Dome,  the  highest  mountain  in  the  valley,  as  well  as 
the  boldest  and  most  beautiful  in  outline.  Its  base  is  shrouded 
in  the  hazy  mystery  which  envelops  every  thing  in  the  valley. 
Numerous  little  white  clouds,  becoming  detached  from  this  misty 
curtain,  are  sailing  up  the  mountain  side.  Dodging  about  among 
the  projecting  spurs,  intruding  their  beautiful  forms  slowly  into 
the  dark  caverns,  puffed  out  again  in  a  hurry  by  the  eddying 
winds  which  hold  possession  of  these  gloomy  recesses,  and  then 
resume  their  upward  flight,  each  following  the  other  with  the  pre- 
cision and  regularity  of  a  fleet  of  white-winged  yachts  rounding  a 
stake-boat,  and  each  eaten  up  by  the  sun  with  astonishing  rapidity, 
as  they  sail  slowly  past  the  angle  of  shadow  cast  across  the  lower 
half  of  the  mountain.  High  above  all  this,  in  the  clear,  bright 
sunshine,  towers  the  lofty  summit.  Every  projection  and  indenta- 
tion, weather  and  water  stain,  fern,  vine,  and  lichen,  so  clearly 
defined  that  one  can  almost  seem  to  touch  it." 

Turn  where  we  may,  objects  of  interest  seem  inexhaustible. 
Every  new  point  passed,  by  rock  or  by  river,  has  some  new  beauty 
to  attract  and  charm  us ;  so  that  even  when  we  have  left  the  com- 
paratively level  bottom-lands  of  the  valley,  and  ascended  the 
debris  to  a  considerable  height,  views  of  the  opposite  walls  over 
the  tops  of  the  trees  reward  us  at  every  step.  Ferns,  mosses,  -flow- 
ers, and  flowering  shrubs,  arc  at  our  side.  The  "shadow  of  a  great 
rock  "  is  on  our  left  hand,  giving  us  its  refreshing  shelter.  Then, 
turning  past  a  bold,  jutting  promontory  of  rock,  from  whence  views 
of  great  majesty  arc  unfolded  to  us,  our  course  is  up  the  rocky  bed 
of  a  ravine,  somewhat  steep,  but  perfectly  safe  to  the  very  top.  By 


154:  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

sitting  down  frequently,  to  rest  and  look  about  us,  we  are  con- 
stantly receiving  our  reward. 

Reaching  a  shrub  and  tree  covered  plateau,  we  strike  eastwardly, 
and  soon  arrive  at  the  summit  of  Glacial  Point.  Before  looking 
down,  let  us  call  attention  to  a  somewhat  noticeable  projecting  point, 
that,  seen  from  the  valley,  apparantly  extends  out  some  three  or 
four  feet,  but  which  we  find,  when  standing  by  it,  is  over  thirty 
feet  beyond  the  nearly  vertical  wall.  Watkins,  the  photographer, 
once  ran  out  to  the  very  point  of  this  rock,  and  from  it  took  one  of 
the  finest  views  of  the  South  Dome  and  the  country  beyond  ever 
obtained. 

Now  let  us  advance  to  the  margin  of  the  precipice.  We  can 
steady  ourselves  by  pressing  against  the  large  rock  at  our  side ;  or 
we  can  lie  down,  and,  having  some  one  to  take  hold  of  our  feet, 
slide  out  like  a  snake  to  its  utmost  edge.  It  may  make  us  a 
little  nervous,  perhaps,  but,  taking  all  necessary  precautions,  we 
shall  find  it  unaccompanied  with  any  real  danger,  and  we  shall 
certainly  never  regret  that  our  courage  was  equal  to  the  task  of 
one  good  look  into  such  an  awful  abyss. 

The  greatest  of  artists  have  almost  invariably  failed  in  portray- 
ing depth  from  a  high  stand-point ;  and  we  know  of  no  writer, 
living  or  dead,  who  has  been  any  more  successful  than  the  artist. 
"We  wish,  for  the  sake  of  our  friends  who  cannot  see  this  with 
their  own  eyes,  that  "the  coming  man"  had  arrived — he  who 
would  prove  the  exception  to  the  rule.  But,  alas,  he  has  not,  as 
yet,  made  his  appearance.  "No  "  trumpet  of  fame  "  announces  the 
gratifying  fact  of  his  approach.  "  Under  these  distressing  circum- 
stances," as  the  pathetic  novelist  would  say,  "  we  are  prepared  to 
wait ;"  and  looking  down  with  our  own  common-place  eyes,  "  see 
what  we  shall  see." 

Large  trees,  two  hundred  feet  high,  are  dwarfed  to  utter  insig- 
nificance. The  little  checker-board  like  spot  first  noticed  is 
Lamon's  apple-orchard  of  four  acres,  and  which  contains  over  five 
hundred  trees,  each  of  which  are  twenty  feet  apart.  The  other 
cultivated  point  beyond,  formed  by  the  junction  of  Tenieya  Creek 
with  the  Merced  River,  is  Lamon's  other  orchard,  and  fruit  and 


THE    YO-SEMITE    VALLEY.  155 

vegetable  garden.  The  bright  speck  which  throws  out  its  silvery 
sheen  in  that  deep,  tree-dotted  canon,  is  Mirror  Lake.  While  the 
South  Dome,  apparently  forever  omnipresent  in  any  scene  near 
or  within  the  valley,  overshadows  and  eclipses  every  lesser  wonder 
by  monopolizing  a  large  share  of  our  admiration  and  attention. 
Elsewhere,  the  North  Dome,  Cloud's  Rest,  Cap  of  Liberty,  Mount 
Starr  King,  Yo-Semite,  and  other  prominent  objects  here  visible, 
would  have  their  due  effect ;  but,  although  at  this  altitude  and 
position  they  differ  altogether  in  outline  and  conformation,  the 
South  Dome  stands,  pre-eminently,  king  over  all. 

On  the  right  of  this  "  monarch,"  in  the  deep  gorge  of  the  river, 
the  magnificent  Nevada  Fall,  Diamond  Flume  and  Apron,  Vernal 
Fall,  and  the  foaming  cataract  of  the  Merced,  all  flash  out  their 
silvery  sheen  most  gloriously,  while  mountains  piled  on  mountains 
in  every  conceivable  shape,  stand  guard  on  every  side.  But  to  see 
these,  and  other  points,  to  advantage,  let  us  ascend  the  now  easily 
reached  Sentinel  Dome. 

Had  this  lofty  dome  been  "  scalped  "  by  some  tornado  it  could 
have  scarcely  shown  less  vegetation ;  for,  with  the  exception  of  one  or 
two  stunted  and  deformed  storm-beaten  pines,  whose  solitary  and 
exposed  condition  almost  excite  our  sympathy,  there  is  scarcely  a 
vestige  of  a  living  thing  upon  it ;  but  almost  every  failing  has  some 
virtue  to  counterbalance  it,  and  often  among  the  meanest  of  men. 
It  is  thus  with  this  point ;  for  if  it  has  no  trees  to  clothe  and  to 
beautify,  it  certainly  has  none  to  obstruct  or  circumscribe  the 
limit  of  our  vision. 

Before  us  lies  the  very  backbone — so  to  speak — of  the  Sierra 
Nevadas;  and,  although  some  thirty  miles  distant,  and  every 
prominent  peak  distinctly  visible  for  fifty  miles,  it  seems  almost 
near  enough  for  us  to  stretch  our  hands  and  touch  it.  Its  verte- 
brae, however,  besides  being  very  uneven,  has  altitudes  upon  it 
exceeding  thirteen  thousand  feet  above  the  sea ;  and  in  its  sheltered 
hollows  immense  banks  of  snow  are  eternally  sleeping.  The  fol- 
lowing are  some  of  the  most  noteworthy  mountains  seen  from  this 
stand-point :  Mt.  Hoffman,  10,872  feet  high ;  Cathedral  Peak, 
11,000 ;  Mt.  Dana,  13,227  ;  Mt.  Lyell,  12,270 ;  Castle  Peak, 


150  SCENKS    IX    CALIFORNIA. 

12,500  ;  Gothic  Peak,  10,850  ;  Mount  Starr  King,  9,600  ;  South 
Dome,  10,000  feet.  There  are  numerous  others  visible  which, 
although  both  high  and  prominent,  are  as  yet  nameless. 

Did  time  permit  us  we  might  profitably  tarry  here  for  hours, 
or  even  days,  as  new  beauties  would  be  opening,  and  strange 
forms  made  manifest  on  every  side.  Before  leaving,  however, 
let  us  look  once  more  down  into  the  valley,  as  the  haze-draped 
vertical  walls  of  Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah  can  be  seen  from  base  to  sum- 
mit. The  Yo-Semite  too,  with  the  country  above  it  through 
which  it  runs,  before  making  its  wonderful  leap, — its  bare  ridges, 
singular  groups  of  rocks,  -forest- clothed  heads  of  ravines,  up  to  its 
source  at  Mount  Hoffman,  are  all  spread  Beneath  us — for,  remem- 
ber, we  are  over  one  thousand  feet  above  the  Yo-Semite  Fall. 
Stretching  far  away  to  the  west  we  can  look  upon  the  broad 
valleys  of  the  San  Joaquin  and  Sacramento,  and  distinctly  see  the 
Coast  Range  near  the  Golden  Gate.  But,  the  rapidly  declining 
sun  admonishes  us  to  return ;  so,  let  us  not  tempt  the  danger  that 
will  lurk  in  our  path,  if  we  have  to  descend  any  portion  of  the 
way  in  the  dark. 

How  many  days — or  weeks,  or  even  months — could  be  well 
spent  in  Yo-Semite  it  would  be  difficult  to  determine.  Hurried 
visits  like  those  we  are  making  only  give  glimpses  and  foretastes 
of  a  few  of  its  wonderful  sights.  Quiet,  rest-giving  rides,  with 
intervals  of  physical  toil,  should  give  us  all  time  to  feel  as  well  as 
to  see,  its  infinite  glories,  and  beauties,  and  wonders. 

As  yet  our  feet  have  not  trod  the  tops  of  such  mountains  as 
Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah  (El  Capitan),  Pom-pom-pa-sus  (Three  Brothers), 
North  Dome,  and  Mount  Hoffman,  on  the  north  side  of  the 
valley  ;  while  .on  the  south  side  there  would  be  the  fissure,  one 
thousand  feet  deep,  the  Clouds'  Rest,  and  others'  equally  worthy. 
But  in  order  to  see  all  of  such  points  to  advantage,  and  with  real 
enjoyment,  camping-out  parties  should  be  organized,  properly 
provided  with  suitable  outfits  and  servants,  and  the  "round  trip  " 
be  made  from  Tamarack  Flat  to  Tuolumne  Yalley,  by  Cathedral 
Yalley  and  Lake  Tenieya ;  and  returning  by  the  Mountain  Mead- 
ows on  the  Mariposa  side. 


THE    YO-SEMITE    VALLEY.  157 

The  time  will  come  when  such  glorious  scenes  as  could  be 
witnessed  on  such  an  excursion  will  be  one  of  the  great  charms 
in  visiting  Yo-Semite.  The  health-giving  properties  of  such  a 
journey  too,  would  in  untold  instances  renew  the  apparently  short 
lease  of  life  vouchsafed  to  many.  The  comfortably  bracing  at- 
mosphere and  the  pure  delicious  water,  united  with  the  sublime 
scenery  would  be  the  magical  genii  of  their  cure. 

Charles  Brace,  in  his  valuable  work  "  The  New  West,"  thus 
graphically  writes  :— 

"  From  this  hotel  [the  Yo-Semite]  there  are  excursions  enough 
to  occupy  one  for  weeks,  among  the  beautiful  scenes  of  the  valley. 
Each  morning  the  guide  saddles  the  horses — which  had  been  turned 
loose  in  the  mountain  pasture — and  fastens  them  in  front  of  the 
house ;  and  after  lunch  has  been  packed,  we  set  off  in  different 
directions,  to  see  the  famous  points  and  objects.  One  of  the  most 
enjoyable  features  of  the  excursion  is  simply  cantering  up  and 
down  the  valley,  getting  the  new  aspects  which  open  freshly 
every  half-mile,  and  are  different  every  hour  of  the  day.  The 
wonderful  thing  about  the  canon,  which  will  hereafter  draw  many 
an  invalid  here  from  distant  lands,  is  its  divine  atmosphere.  To 
me,  just  recovering  from  a  tedious  fever,  it  seemed  the  very  elixir 
of  life — cool,  clear,  stimulating,  and  filled  with  light  and  glory 
from  the  sun  of  the  south,  which  here  never  seems  in  summer  to 
have  a  cloud.  The  nights  are  cool,  but  midday  would  be  too 
warm  w^ere  it  not  for  the  delicious  sea-breeze  which  every  day  at 
eleven,  blows  in  from  the  Golden  Gate,  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
away.  The  gorge  is  fortunately  east  and  west  just  about  opposite 
to  San  Francisco,  and  about  midway  between  the  two  flanks  of 
the  sierras — here  some  seventy  miles  in  width.  Were  it  a  north 
and  south  valley,  even  at  its  altitude  (4,000  feet),  it  would  be 
almost  intolerable.'  "Now  nothing  can  surpass  its  mild,  invigora- 
ting climate,  and  harmonious  atmosphere.  Life  seems  to  have  a 
new  spring  and  hope  under  it.  The  charm  of  the  wonderful 
valley  is  its  cheerfulness  and  joy.  Even  the  awe-inspiring  gran- 
deur and  majesty  of  its  features  do  not  overwhelm  the  sense  of  its 
exquisite  beauty,  its  wonderful  delicacy,  and  color,  and  life,  and  joy. 


158  SCENES    m    CALIFORNIA. 

"  As  I  recall  those  rides  in  the  fresh  morning  or  the  dreamy 
noon,  that  scene  of  unequalled  grandeur  and  beauty  is  forever 
stamped  on  my  memory,  to  remain  when  all  other  scenes  of  earth 
have  passed  from  remembrance — the  pearly -gray  and  purple 
precipices,  awful  in  mass,  far  above  one,  with  deep  shadows  on 
their  rugged  surfaces,  dark  lines  of  gigantic  archways  or  fantastic 
images  drawn  clearly  upon  them,  the  bright  white  water  dashing 
over  the  distant  gray  tops  seen  against  the  dark  blue  of  the 
unfathomable  sky,  the  heavy  shadows  over  the  valley  from  the 
mighty  peaks,  the  winding  stream,  and  peaceful  greensward  wTith 
gay  wild-flowers  below,  the  snowy  summits  of  the  sierras  far 
away,  the  atmosphere  of  glory  illuminating  all,  and  the  eternal 
voice  of  many  waters  wherever  you  walk  or  rest !  This  is  the 
Yo- Semite  in  memory  ! 

"I  have  been  thinking  much  of  scenes  in  Norway,  Tyrol,  and 
Switzerland,  with  which  to  compare  this.  Switzerland,  as  a 
whole,  is  much  superior  in  combinations  and  variety  of  features  to 
the  sierra  region.  But  there  is  no  one  scene  in  Switzerland,  or 
the  other  parts  of  mountainous  Europe,  which  can  at  all  equal 
this  Californian  valley.  The  Swiss  scene  has  the  advantage  in 
the  superb  glaciers  which  flow  into  the  upper  end  of  the  valley, 
but  it  is  inferior  in  grandeur,  arid  even  in  life,  to  the  Californian. 
The  latter  having  immensely  grander  precipices,  and,  instead  of 
one  waterfall — the  Staubbach — a  dozen  on  a  much  grander 
scale." 

An  English  gentleman,  a  member  of  the  celebrated  Alpine 
Club,  spent  seventeen  days  in  Yo-Semite,  and  upon  leaving  he 
remarked  to  the  writer.  "I  never  left  a  place  with  so  much 
pleasurable  regret  in  my  life.  I  have  several  times  visited  all 
the  noted  places  in  Europe,  and  many  that  are  out  of  the  ordinary 
tourist's  round.  I  have  crossed  the  Andes  in  three  different 
places,  and  been  conducted  to  the  sights  considered  most  remark- 
able— I  have  been  among  the  charming. scenery  of  the  Sandwich 
Islands,  and  the  mountain  districts  of  Australia,  but  never  have  I 
seen  so  much  of  sublime  grandeur  relieved  by  so  much  beauty,  as 
that  which  I  have  witnessed  in  Yo-Semite." 


THE    YO-8EMITE    VALLEY. 

COMPARISON    BETWEEN    THE    YO-SEMITE   VALLEY   AND    SOME    PARTS    OF 

SWITZERLAND. 

A  love  for  the  beautiful,  in  nature  or  art,  is  not  only  a  magnet 
of  attraction  to  persons  of  kindred  tastes,  but,  dispelling  all 
national  prejudices  and  social  ceremonies,  becomes  a  bond  of 
individual  friendship  between  men  of  different  countries,  habits, 
arid  peculiarities.  Especially  is  this  remarkable  in  those  who 
travel  much ;  for,  without  being  offensively  obtrusive,  they  have 
learned  to  accept  and  bestow  kindnesses  promptly,  as  matters  of 
natural  courtesy ;  and  to  ask  or  answer  questions,  sometimes  in 
partial  anticipation  of  the  wishes  and  pleasures  of  a  fellow- 
traveller,  without  any  apparent  obligation  to  or  from  either,  and 
which  places  them  upon  terms  of  intimacy  and  friendliness  to 
each  other. 

Through  such  a  medium,  by  the  kindness  of  Rev.  P.  Y.  Yeeder, 
of  Napa,  we  are  favored  with  the  following  notes  of  comparison 
between  the  scenery  of  the  Yo-Semite  Yalley,  and  that  of  some 
parts  of  Switzerland : 

"  The  Alps  of  Switzerland  and  Savoy  may  be  compared  to  a 
vast  shield  or  buckler,  lying  on  the  bosom  of  the  earth,  and  ex- 
tending one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  the  borders  of  France 
to  the  Alps  of  the  Tyrol,  and  one  hundred  miles  from  the  plains  of 
Piedmont  to  the  broad  valley  between  the  Alps  and  the  Jura 
Mountains.  From  this  rough-seamed  surface,  there  rise  three  im- 
mense bosses,  or  projecting  points — three  radiating  centres,  sending 
off  lofty  chains  of  mountains  toward  each  other,  and  into  the 
plains  of  France,  Italy,  and  Switzerland,  at  their  feet.  The  loftiest 
of  these  bosses  or  centres  is  Mont  Blanc  in  Savoy,  the  height  of 
which  is  fifteen  thousand  seven  hundred  and  forty-four  feet ;  the 
next  in  height  is  Monte  Rosa,  fifteen  thousand  two  hundred  feet 
high  ;  and  the  third  is  the  Bernese  Alps,  the  culminating  point  of 
which  is  the  Finster-aarhorn,  fourteen  thousand  one  hundred  feet 
high.  These  three  grand  centres  are  about  sixty  miles  apart,  and 
each  has  a  scenery  peculiar  to  itself.  They  are  alike  vast,  rugged, 
mountain  masses,  towering  six  thousand  feet  into  the  region  of 


1(50  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

perpetual  snow ;  but  Mont  Blanc  has  its  "  aiguilles"  or  needles ; 
Monte  Rosa,  its  wonderful  neighbor,  Mont  Cervin;  and  the  Ber- 
nese Alps  have  their  beautiful  valley  of  misty  waterfalls,  leaping 
over  perpendicular  cliffs.  The  traveller  who  visits  Yo-Semite 
Yalley  after  seeing  the  Alps,  will  be  reminded  of  each  of  these 
three  grand  centres.  He  will  see  the  aiguilles  of  Mont  Blanc  in 
the  ' Sentinel,'  or  'Castle  Rock,'  rising,  as  straight  as  a  needle, 
to  the  height  of  three  thousand  two  hundred  feet  above  the  valley, 
and  in  several  other  pointed  rocks  of  the  same  kind.  He  will  be 
reminded  of  the  sublimest  object  in  the  vicinity  of  Monte  Rosa, 
the  Materhorn,  or  Mont  Cervin,  the  summit  of  which  is  a  dark 
obelisk  of  porphyry,  rising,  from  a  sea  of  snow,  to  the  height  of 
four  thousand  five  hundred  feet.  The  '  South  Dome,'  at  Yo- 
Semite  Falls,  is  a  similar  obelisk,  four  thousand  five  hundred  and 
ninety-three  feet  in  height. 

"  But,  above  all,  the  general  shape,  the  size,  and  the  waterfalls 
of  Yo-Semite  Valley  give  it  the  closest  resemblence  to  the  famous 
valley  of  Lauterbrunnen,  at  the  base  of  the  Jungfrau,  in  the 
Bernese  Alps.  No  part  of  Switzerland  is  more  admired  and 
visited.  To  me,  its  chief  charm  is  not  so  much  its  sublime  preci- 
pices, and  its  lofty  waterfalls,  which  give  the  valley  its  name, 
4  Lauterbrunnen,'  meaning  £  sounding-brooks,'  as  the  magnificent 
mountain  summits,  towering  up  beyond  the  precipices,  and  the 
unearthly  beauty  and  purity  of  the  glistening  snows  on  the  bosom 
of  the  Jungfrau,  and  the  mountains  at  the  head  of  the  valley. 
But  these  summits  are  not  the  peculiar  characteristic  features  of 
Lauterbrunnen  Valley.  These  are  the  waterfalls,  the  perpen- 
dicular precipices,  and  the  beautiful  grassy  and  vine-clad  vale 
between.  And  these  are  the  grand  features  of  Yo-Semite  Yalley. 
Here  you  stand  in  a  level  valley  of  about  the  same  dimensions  as 
the  Lauterbrunnen — from  eight  to  ten  miles  long,  and  a  little 
more  than  a  mile  wTide — covered  here  with  a  magnificent  pine 
forest,  the  trees  averaging  two  hundred  feet  in  height ;  there,  with 
a  growth  of  noble  oaks  ;  and  elsewhere  opening  into  broad,  grassy 
fields.  These  natural  features  almost  equal  in  beauty  the  vine- 
yards, gardens,  and  cultivated  fields  of  Lauterbrunnen. 


THE   TO-SEMITE    VALLEY.  161 

"  But  look  now  at  the  waterfalls :  only  one  of  them  in  the  Swiss 
valley  has  a  European  celebrity — the  Staubbach,  or  'Dust- 
Brook' — known  as  the  highest  cascade  in  Europe.  It  falls  at  one 
leap,  nine  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet.  Long  before  it  reaches 
the  ground  it  becomes  a  veil  of  vapor,  beclouding  acres  of  fertile 
soil  at  its  foot.  It  is  worthy  of  all  the  admiration  and  enthusiasm 
it  excites  in  the  beholder.  But  the  '  Bridal  Veil'  (Pohono)  Fall 
in  Yo-Semite  Yalley  is  higher,  being  nine  hundred  and  forty  feet 
in  altitude;  leaps  out  of  a  smoother  channel,  in  a  clear,  symmetri- 
cal arch  of  indescribable  beauty ;  has  a  larger  body  of  water,  and 
is  surrounded  by  far  loftier  and  grander  precipices. 

"When  we  come  to  the  'Yo-Semite  Falls'  proper,  we  behold 
an  object  which  has  no  parallel  anywhere  in  the  Alps.  The  upper 
part  is  the  highest  waterfall  in  the  world,  as  yet  discovered,  being 
fifteen  hundred  feet  in  height.  It  reminds  me  of  nothing  in  the 
Alps  but  the  avalanches  seen  falling  at  intervals  down  the  preci- 
pices of  the  Jungfrau.  It  is,  indeed,  a  perpetual  avalanche  of 
water  comminuted  as  finely  as  snow,  and  spreading,  as  it  descends, 
into  a  transparent  veil,  like  the  train  of  the  great  comet  of  1858. 
As  you  look  at  it  from  the  valley  beneath,  a  thousand  feet  below, 
it  is  not  unlike  a  snowy  comet,  perpetually  climbing,  not  the 
heavens,  but  the  glorious  cliffs  which  tower  up  three  thousand 
feet  into  the  zenith  above,  not  unlike  a  firmament  of  rock. 

"  The  lower  section  of  the  Yo-Semite  Falls  has  its  parallel  in 
Switzerland,  the  Handeck,  but  is  much  higher.  The  scenery 
around  the  '  Vernal'  (Pi-wy-ack)  Falls — which  resemble  a  section 
of  the  American  Falls  at  Niagara — is  like  that  of  the  Devil's 
Bridge,  in  the  great  St.  Gothard  road,  which  is,  perhaps,  the 
wildest  and  most  savage  spot  in  Switzerland,  unless  we  except 
that  wonderful  gorge  of  the  Ehine — the  Videllala.  But  when  you 
clir^ib  through  blinding  spray,  and  up  'The  Ladders,'  to  the  top 
of  the  Vernal  Falls,  and  follow  the  foaming  river  to  the  foot  of 
the  '  Nevada'  (Yo-wi-ye)  Falls,  all  comparison  fails  to  convey  an 
idea  of  the  wildness  and  sublimity  of  the  scene.  The  Swiss 
traveller  must  climb  the  rugged  sides  of  Mont  Blanc,  cross  the 
Mer  de  Glace,  and,  stationing  himself  on  the  broken  rocks  of  the 
11 


162  SCENES    IN    CALIFOKNIA. 

Gardin,  imagine  a  river  falling  in  a  snowy  avalanche  over  the 
shoulder  of  one  of  the  sharp  aiguilles,  or  needle-shaped  peaks 
around  him.  There  are  no  glaciers  at  the  foot  of  the  Kevada 
Falls,  but  every  other  feature  of  the  scene  has  an  unearthly  wild- 
ness,  to  be  equalled  only  near  Alpine  summits. 

"  To  return  again  to  the  comparison  of  the  sister  valleys — the 
Yo-Semite  and  the  Lauterbrunnen.  The  third  peculiar  feature  of 
the  Swiss  valley  is  the  parallel  precipices  on  each  side,  rising  per- 
pendicularly from  one  thousand  to  fifteen  hundred  feet.  They  are, 
indeed,  sublime,  and  where  the  cliff  projects,  in  a  rounded  form, 
like  the  bastions  of  some  huge  castle,  you  might  imagine  that  you 
beheld  one  of  the  strongholds  of  the  fabled  Titans  of  old.  But  what 
are  they,  compared  with  such  a  giant  as  Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah,  lifting  up 
his  square,  granite  forehead,  three  thousand  and  ninety  feet  above 
the  grassy  plain  at  his  feet,  «,  rounded,  curving  cliff,  as  smooth,  as 
symmetrical  to  the  eye,  and  absolutely  as  vertical,  for  the  upper 
fifteen  hundred  feet,  as  any  Corinthian  pillar  on  earth !  What 
shall  we  say,  when,  standing  in  the  middle  of  a  valley  more  than  a 
mile  wide,  you  know  that  if  these  granite  walls  should  fall  toward 
each  other,  they  would  smite  their  foreheads  together  hundreds 
of  feet  above  the  valley !  What  magnificent  domes  are  those, 
scarcely  a  mile  apart — the  one  three  thousand  eight  hundred  feet, 
and  the  other  four  thousand  five  hundred  and  ninety-three  feet  in 
height !  When  you  stand  in  the  valley  of  Lauterbrunnen,  and 
look  at  the  snowy  summit  of  Jungfrau,  or  c  Virgin,'  you  behold  an 
object  eleven  thousand  feet  above  you;  but  your  map  will  tell 
you  that  it  is  five  miles  distant,  and,  by  a  little  calculation,  you 
will  find  that  you  raise  your  eyes  at  an  angle  of  only  twenty-three 
degrees.  So  at  Chamounix,  you  look  up  at  the  snowy  dome  of 
Mont  Blanc,  rising  twelve  thousand  three  hundred  and  thirty 
feet  above  you ;  but  you  must  remember  that  it  is  six  and  one- 
half  miles  distant  from  you,  and  the  angle  at  which  you  view  it  is 
only  twenty  degrees,  while  the  very  sharpest  angle  at  which  you 
can  view  it  is  twenty-five  degrees.  But  at  Yo-Semite  you  need 
but  climb  a  few  rods  up  the  rocks  at  the  base  of  that  granite  wall, 
and,  leaning  up  against  it,  you  may  look  up — if  your  nerves  are 


THE    YOSEMITE   VALLEY.  163 

steady  enough  to  withstand  the  impression  that  the  cliffs  are  fall- 
ing over  upon  you — and  see  the  summits  above  you,  at  an  angle  of 
nearly  ninety  degrees ;  in  other  words,  you  will  behold  a  mountain 
top  three  thousand  feet  above  you  in  the  zenith.  I  have  seen  the 
stupendous  declivity  of  the  Italian  side  of  Monte  Rosa — a  steep, 
continuous  precipice  of  nine  thousand  feet ;  but  it  is  nothing  like 
Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah,  being  nowhere  absolutely  perpendicular." 

ATTEMPTS  TO  ASCEND  THE  GREAT  SOUTH  DOME,  MOUNT  TIS-SA-ACK. 

As  no  footsteps  have  ever  trod  the  hazy  summit  of  the  dome- 
crowned  mountain  of  granite,  named  Tis-sa-ack,  that  stands  at 
the  head  of  the  Yo-Semite  Valley ;  and  no  eye  has  ever  looked 
into  the  purple  depth  and  misty  distance  that  stretches  far  away 
across  the  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin,  from  its  lofty  top;  and,  as 
we  had  long  desired  to  explore  all  of  its  unknown  and  mysterious 
surroundings,  it  is  very  natural  that  we  should  feel  an  earnest 
yearning  to  gaze  upon  the  wonders,  beauty,  and  majesty,  that  may 
be  visible  from  so  bold  and  so  high  a  stand-point, — as  there  can 
be  but  little  doubt  of  its  being  at  least  a  mile  in  perpendicular 
height  above  the  valley.* 

u  If  you  feel  like  making  the  attempt  to  climb  it,"  said  two 
excellent  and  companionable  friends,  "  we  are  ready  to  accompany 
you,  and  will  take  you  by  the  Indian  trail  up  the  mountain  ;  but  it 
is  a  very  difficult  and  fatiguing  undertaking,  we  assure  you,  ac- 
companied with  some  danger."  The  chances  were  accepted. 

On,  on  we  march,  in  Indian  tile,  until  we  are  nearly  on  the 
margin  of  the  river.  When  we  reach  it,  we  find  that  a  small,  yet 
tall  tree  has  fallen  across  to  form  a  bridge,  over  which  we  walk, 
while  the  thundering  water  splashes  and  surges  as  it  sweeps 
against  the  rocks,  much  to  the  discomposure  of  the  nervous  system 
of  some,  knowing  that  we  have  to  follow  suit,  or  stay  behind. 

This  accomplished,  we  soon  begin  the  ascent  of  the  mountain 
over  loose  fragments  of  debris,  and  among  huge  masses  of  fallen 

*  Measurements  of  this  mountain  have  differed  very  materially ;  several  engineers 
having  made  it  from  4,700  to  5,500.  Prof.  Brewer  informed  the  writer  in  1865,  that 
from  observations  made  by  him.  at  about  the  same  altitude,  and  with  the  South  Dome 
in  full  sight,  its  summit  was  10,000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  6,000  above  the  valley 


164 


SCENES    IN    CALIFOKNIA. 


rocks,  lying  at  the  side  of  the  mountain,  and  in  the  bed  of  a  small 
but  very  deep  canon ;  but  these  are  soon  left  behind,  and  we  have 
to  commence  climbing  around  and  over  points  of  rocks,  walking 
on  narrow  edges,  or  feeling  our  way  past  some  projecting  point, 
or  tree,  or  shrub ;  steadying  ourselves  by  a  twig,  or  crevice,  or 


THE  "INDIAN  TRAIL"  UP  THE  MOUNTAIN. 

jutting  rock ;  or  holding  on  with  our  feet,  as  well  as  our  hands, 
knowing  that  a  slip  will  send  us  down  several  hundred  feet,  into 
the  deep  abyss  that  yawns  beneath. 

In  some  places,  where  the  ledges  of  rock  are  high  and  smooth, 
broken  branches  of  trees  have  been  placed,  so  as  to  enable  the 
Indians  to  climb  above  them  ;  and  then,  by  removing  the  means 
of  their  ascent,  cut  off  the  pursuit  of  any  advancing  foe.  These, 
although  risky  places  to  travel  over,  and  in  no  way  inviting  to  a 
nervous  man,  are  of  considerable  assistance  in  the  accomplishment 
of  our  task. 


THE   YO-SEMITE   VALLEY.  165 

After  an  exciting  and  fatiguing  exercise,  of  about  three  hours, 
we  reach  a  large  projecting  rock,  that  forms  a  cave.  Here  we 
take  a  rest  of  a  few  minutes,  and  then  renew  our  efforts  to  reach 
the  top  of  the  mountain.  A  little  before  noon  this  is  accom- 
plished. 

To  our  great  comfort  and  satisfaction,  a  cool  and  refreshing 
breeze  is  blowing  upon  us  as  soon  as  we  reach  the  summit ;  and 
this  is  especially  welcome,  as  the  heat,  on  the  sheltered  side,  by 
which  we  have  ascended,  has  been  very  oppressive,  pouring  down 
upon  us  from  a  hot  sun,  without  the  slightest  breeze  to  fan,  or 
shadow  to  shelter  us,  as  we  climb. 

The  reader  must  not  anticipate  our  narrative,  by  supposing  that 
the  difficult  task  of  ascending  the  Great  Dome  is  now  accomplished, 
far  from  it ;  for,  although  we  have  reached  the  top  of  the  elevated 
plateau,  or  mountain  ridge,  to  the  height  of  about  three  thousand 
seven  hundred  feet  above  the  valley,  the  great,  bald-headed  object 
of  our  aspirations  is  still  lifting  its  proud  summit  more  than  a 
thousand  feet  above  us. 

While  advancing  toward  Tis-sa-ack,  looking  out  for  some  point 
where  the  ascent  can  be  the  most  successfully  attempted,  we 
come 'upon  the  projecting  margin  of  the  immense  granite  wall  of 
rock  seen  from  below ;  and,  as  we  stand  upon  it,  looking  down 
into  the  far  off  and  misty  depths  of  the  valley  beneath,  with  the 
river  winding  hither  and  thither,  no  language  can  describe  the  ap- 
palling grandeur  and  frightful  profoundness  of  the  scene. 

Steadying  ourselves  against  a  stunted  pine  tree,  that  has  been 
toughened  and  strengthened  by  its  perpetual  struggles  with  the 
tempests  and  storms  of  many  a  year,  and  which  is  growing  from  a 
narrow  crevice  in  the  granite  mass  on  either  side,  we  roll  several 
large,  round  rocks,  that  lie  temptingly  near  the  edge  of  the  preci- 
pice, into  the  abyss  beneath ;  wrhen  we  are  surprised  to  find  that 
many  seconds  elapse  before  they  are  heard  to  strike  on  the  bare 
rock  below.  It  is  our  opinion  that  this  precipice  cannot  be  less 
than  two  thousand  seven  hundred  feet  in  perpendicular  altitude. 
Here  we  are  enabled  to  find  some  flowers  of  a  genus  but  recently 
known  to  botanists,  and,  consequently,  new. 


166  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

Without  lingering  too  long,  we  again  start  on  our  enterprise, 
and  find  that  on  this,  the  south  side  of  the  Dome,  it  is  utterly 
impossible  to  climb  up ;  so  we  work  our  way  through  a  dense, 
though  comparatively  dwarfish  growth  of  manzanita  bushes, 
growing  at  the  base  of  the  Dome  (which  makes  sad  havoc  in 
broadcloth  unmentionables),  and  about  two  o'clock  p.  M.  reach 
the  foot  of  a  low,  flattish,  dome-shaped  point  of  rock,  that  lies  at 
the  back  or  eastern  side  of  the  great  Tis-sa-ack,  and  which  is  not 
seen  from  the  valley. 

As  we  have  not  found  a  single  drop  of  water  to  assuage  our 
thirst,  since  we  left  the  river,  and  the  day  and  the  exercise  alike 
provocative  of  it,  our  gratification  is  strong  at  the  sight  of  a  snow 
bank,  snugly  ensconced  in  the  shade,  on  the  north  side  of  the 
Dome.  We  now  quicken  our  footsteps,  and  soon  find  ourselves 
sitting  comfortably  beside  it,  taking  lunch.  An  abundance  of 
good  water  being  found  issuing  from  a  crevice  in  the  rock,  a  short 
distance  down  the  mountain,  we  repair  thither  to  finish  our  repast, 
and  take  a  good,  hearty  draught,  before  attempting  the  ascent. 
Here  we  find  several  new  varieties  of  flowering  shrubs,  in  addition 
to  some  bulbous  roots,  and  very  pretty  mosses. 

The  inner  man  being  satisfied,  the  rapidly  descending  sun  ad- 
monishes us  to  make  the  best  of  daylight  to  accomplish  the  task 
we  have  set  ourselves.  Accordingly,  we  repair  to  the  Lower 
Dome,  which  is  one  immense  spur  of  granite,  belonging  to  the 
Great  Dome ;  and,  as  its  surface,  by  time  and  the  elements,  is 
made  tolerably  rough,  there  is  found  comparatively  but  little 
difficulty  in  climbing  it,  especially  with  a  little  assistance. 

In  some  of  the  fissures  or  seams  of  this  rock,  some  low,  stunted 
scrubs  are  growing.  When  we  reach  the  top  of  the  Lower  Dome, 
which  is,  perhaps,  about  four  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the 
average  level  of  the  main  ridge,  to  our  dismay  and  disappoint- 
ment, we  find  that  not  only  is  the  gently  rounding  surface  of 
the  Great  Dome  itself  at  an  angle  of  about  sixty-eight  or  seventy 
degrees,  but  is  overlaid  and  overlapped,  so  to  speak,  with  vast 
circular  granite  shingles — as  smooth  as  glass — about  eighteen 
inches  in  thickness,  and  extending  around  the  Dome  as  far  as  our 


THE   YO-SEMITE   VALLEY. 


167 


ASCENDING  THE  LOWER  DOME. 


eyes  can  reach.  These  put  every  hope  to  flight,  of  our  feet,  or 
those  of  any  other  visitors,  ever  treading  upon  the  lofty  crown  of 
this  dome,  without  extensive  artificial  adjuncts  to  aid  in  its  accom- 
plishment. On  the  top  of  this  immense  mountain  of  smooth  rock, 
one  solitary  pine  is  growing ;  and  although  it  is  barely  discernible 
from  the  valley  (and  not  at  all  from  the  Lower  Dome,  where  we  are 
standing),  by  the  aid  of  the  telescope,  it  is  seen  to  be  a  tree  of 
goodly  size. 

Much  disappointed  at  the  failure  of  the  principal  object  of 
the  enterprise,  we  will  place  our  national  banner  upon  the  highest 
point  attainable,  in  the  hope  that  the  day  is  not  far  distant  when 
the  number  of  visitors  who  shall  annually  come  to  worship  at  this 
sublime  temple  of  nature,  may  create  the  necessity  for  the  con- 
struction of  a  strong  iron  staircase  to  the  very  summit  of  Mount 
Tis-sa-ack ;  and,  that  from  the  topmost  crown  of  her  noble  head, 
the  stars  and  stripes  may  wave  triumphantly,  as  from  this  eleva- 
tion the  whole  surrounding  country  can  be  seen  afar  off,  and  a 
thousand  times  fully  reward  the  perseverance  and  fatigue  of  the 
ascent. 


168  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


SUMMARY. 

The  Yo-Semite  Valley  (pronounced  Yo-Sem'-i-ty)  is  about  150 
miles  nearly  due  east  from  San  Francisco,  and  by  the  routes 
travelled  it  is,  to  Stockton,  by  rail  93  miles,  by  steamboat  120 
miles ;  add  to  those  distances  from  Stockton,  via  the  Calaveras 
Big  Tree  Grove,  168  miles  (157  by  stage  and  11  by  horseback) ; 
via  Big  Oak  Flat  direct,  109  miles  (98  by  stage  and  11  by  horse- 
back) ;  via  Mariposa  152  miles  (107  by  stage  and  45  by  horseback). 

The  altitude  of  Yo-Semite  above  the  sea,  as  given  by  the  State 
Geological  Survey,  is  4,060  feet.  It  is  about  seven  miles  long,  by 
from  half  a  mile  to  one  and  a  quarter  miles  in  width  ;  surrounded 
by  walls  (in  many  places  nearly  vertical)  from  three  thousand  to 
six  thousand  feet  in  height.  Its  general  course  is  northeasterly 
and  southwesterly.  From  one  end  to  the  other  there  is  a  fall  of 
about  fifty  feet,  the  total  area  within  the  walls  of  the  valley,  as 
given  by  the  Commissioner  of  the  General  Land  Office,  Washing- 
ton, is  8,480  acres,  3,109  of  which  are  meadow  land,  the  entire 
grant  comprising  36,111  acres.  The  main  Merced  River  about 
eighty  feet  in  width,  and  perfectly  clear,  runs  through  it.  Trout 
in  reasonable  abundance  can  be  seen  at  almost  any  point  of  the 
river. 

Numerous  kinds  of  deciduous  and  evergreen  trees  and  shrubs 
are  interspersed  entirely  through  it.  Ferns,  flowers,  and  grasses 
grow  in  almost  endless  quantities  and  varieties.  Several  fine 
chalybeate  springs  have  been  discovered  there.  The  atmosphere 
is  very  temperate,  bracing,  and  healthy  both  summer  and  winter, 
the  thermometer  seldom  running  above  80°  in  the  summer,  or 
more  than  16  below  freezing  point  in  the  winter.  A  cooling 
breeze  from  the  northwest  in  the  day-time,  and  from  the  south- 
east at  night,  keeps  the  valley  in  summer  at  a  very  comfortable 
temperature,  ^gloods  sweep  through  it  in  the  early  spring,  and 
in  the  late  fall,  sometimes  doing  considerable  damage.  Snow  falls 
in  winter  to  the  depth  of  from  two  and  a  half  to  five  feet.  The 
sun  rises  on  Hutchings'  Hotel  during  the  short  days  about  half- 
past  one  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  sets  about  half-past  three. 


THE    YO-SEMITE    VALLEY. 

On  this  account  a  comfortable  cabin  was  built  on  the  sunny  and 
north  side  of  the  valley.  Rain  or  snow  generally  comes  from  the 
south.  The  heavy  snows  on  the  mountains  cK>ssed  by  the  trails, 
shut  out  all  personal  intercourse  between  the  inhabitants  and  the 
great  world  outside  for  about  six  months  out  of  twelve.  An  « 
Indian  mail-carrier  brings  us  letters,  papers,  books,  and  magazines 
once  in  three  months,  during  winter,  and  if  the  weather  is  favora- 
ble twice  in  that  time. 

TABLE    OF   ALTITUDES   AT   YO-SEMITE   VALLEY. 

WATERFALLS. 

Feet  above 
Indian  Name.  Signification.  American  Name.  Valley. 

Pohono Spirit  of  the  Evil  Wind Bridal  Veil  Fall 940 

Lung-oo-too-koo-ya  . .  .Long  and  slender Ribbon  Fall 3,300 

Yo-Sem-5-te Large  Grizzly  Bear Yo-Semite  Fall 2,034 

First  fall,  1,600  feet;  second  fall  (or  cataract),  434  feet;  third  fall,  COO  feet. 

Pi-wy-ack Cataract  of  Diamonds Vernal  Fall 350 

Yo-wi-ye Meandering Nevada  Fall 700 

Tu-lool-we-ack South    Canon    Fall    (above 

base) 600 

Loya A  Medicinal  Shrub Sentinel  (cataract) 3,860 

To-coy-a3 Shade  to  Baby  Cradle-Basket.  Royal  Arch  Fall 2,000 

The  two  latter  streams,  with  numerous  smaller  ones,  run  only  in  the  early  spring. 

MOUNTAINS. 

Tis-sa-ack Goddess  of  the  Valley South  Dome 6,000 

Cloud's  Rest 6,450 

To-coy-re Shade  to  Baby  Cradle-Basket .  North  Dome 3,725 

Hunto Watching  Eye Washington  Tower 2,200 

Mah-tah Martyr,  or  Suicide,  Mountain .  Cap  of  Liberty  (above  foot 

Nevada  Falls) 2,000 

See-wah-lam Mount  Starr  King 5,000 

Er-na-tingLaw-oo-too.Bear  Skin Glacier  Point 3,705 

Loya A  Medicinal  Shrub Sentinel. 3,270 

Poo-see-nah  Chuck-ka. Large  Acorn  Storehouse Cathedral  Spires 2,400 

Ko-soo-kong Three  Graces 3, 7  50 

'..Cathedral  Rock 2,670 

Inspiration  Point 3,200 

; Mount  Beatitude 2,900 

Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah. . .  .Semi-Deity  and  Great  Chief 

of  Valley The  Captain 3,300 

Pom-pom-pa-sus Mountains  playing  Leap-Frog.  Three  Brothers 4,000 

Hum-moo. . .             . .  Lost  Arrow . .                     Point  East  of  Yo-Semite ...  3,100 


170 


SCENES   IN    CALIFORNIA. 


VIEW  DOWN  THE  VALLEY,  TO  "CATHEDRAL  ROCKS." 

DEPARTURE  FROM  THE  VALLEY. 

It  is  much  to  be  regretted  that  the  tourist  should  allow  himself 
so  brief  a  period  in  this  wonderful  valley, — generally  about  four 
days  only,  when  it  should  have  been  fourteen, — for,  after  he  has  left 
its  sublime  solitudes,  its  numerous  waterfalls  and  brooklets,  its 
picturesque  river  scenes,  its  groups  of  shrubs  and  trees,  its  endless 
variety  of  wild  flowers,  its  bold,  rugged,  awe-inspiring,  pine- 
studded,  and  snow-covered  mountain  heights,  with  all  their  ever- 
changing  shadows  and  curious  shapes,  and  its  health-giving  and 
invigorating  air,  with  its  thousand  of  unmentioned  charms,  that 
would  have  given  pleasurable  occupation  and  grateful  variety  to 
every  class  and  condition,  both  of  body  and  mind,  for  months,  he 
contrasts  that  which  he  saw  with  that  he  might  have  seen,  and 
becomes  dissatisfied  with  his  course  in  spending  so  much  time,  as 


THE   YO-SEM1TE    VALLEY.  171 

well  as  money,  in  travelling  there,  and  then  riding  oft'  without 
seeing  more  than  a  limited  portion  of  such  remarkable  scenes. 

Wishing  all  a  safe  and  joyous  return,  with  none  but  pleasant 
memories  forever  of  their  Yo-Semite  trip,  we  bid  each  agreeable 
companion  a  reluctant  "  good-bye,"  in  the  hope  of  soon  welcoming 
them  again  to  the  beauty  and  majesty  of  the  landscapes,  and  the 
invigorating  air  and  pure  waters  of  our  unparalleled  Yo-Sem'-i-te. 


172 


bOJKNES   IN    CALIFORNIA. 


';  I  !     '\  i  S£- 

\    V  \  OH 


SCENE  IN  THE  FREZNO  GROVE  OF  MAMMOTH  TREES. 

CHAPTEE  Y. 
THE  MAMMOTH  TREES  OF  MARIPOSA  AND  FREZNO. 

"  Go  abroad 

Upon  the  paths  of  Nature,  and,  when  all 
Its  voices  whisper,  and  its  silent  things 
Are  breathing  the  deep  beauty  of  the  world, 
Kneel  at  its  simple  altar,  and  the  God 
Who  hath  the  living  waters  shall  be  there."— N.  P.  WILLIS. 

THE   DISCOVEKEKS    OF   THESE    GEOVES. 

FOE  several  years  after  the  discovery  of  the  mammoth  trees  of 
Calaveras  county  had  astonished  the  world,  that  group  of  trees 


THE   MAMMOTH   TEEE8    OF   MARIPOSA   AND   FKEZNO. 

was  supposed  to  be  the  only  one  of  the  kind  in  existence.  But, 
during  the  latter  part  of  July  or  the  beginning  of  August,  1855,  Mr. 
Hogg,  a  hunter,  in  the  employ  of  the  South  Fork  Merced  Canal 
Company,  while  in  the  pursuit  of  his  calling,  saw  one  or  more 
trees,  of  the  same  variety  and  genus  as  those  of  Calaveras,  grow- 
ing on  one  of  the  tributaries  of  Big  Creek,  and  related  the  fact  to 
Mr.  Galen  Clark,  and  other  acquaintances.  Late  in  September, 
or  early  in  October. ensuing,  Mr.  J.  E.  Clayton,  civil  engineer,  re- 
siding in  Mariposa,  while  running  a  line  of  survey  for  Colonel 
J.  C.  Fremont,  across  some  of  the  upper  branches  of  the  Frezno 
Hiver,  discovered  other  trees  of  the  same  class,  but,  like  Mr.  Hogg, 
passed  on  without  further  examination  or  exploration. 

About  the  1st  of  June,  Mr.  Milton  Mann  and  Mr.  Clark  were 
conversing  together  on,  the  subject,  at  Clark's  Ranche  on  the  South 
Fork  of  the  Merced,  when  they  mutually  agreed  to  go  out  on  a 
hunting  excursion  in  the  direction  indicated  by  Mr.  Hogg  and  Mr. 
Clayton,  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  definitely  the  locality,  size, 
and  number  of  the  trees  mentioned. 

Well  mounted,  they  left  Clark's  Eanche,  and  proceeded  up  the 
divide  between  the  South  Fork  of  the  Merced  and  Big  Creek,  in 
a  south-eastern '  course,  with  the  intention  of  making  a  circuit  of 
several  miles,  if  not  at  first  successful — this  plan  being  the  most 
suggestive  of  their  rediscovery. 

"When  on  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  about  four  miles  from 
Clark's,  they  saw  the  broad  and  towering  tops  of  the  mammoth 
trees — since  known  as  the  "  Mariposa  Grove" — and  shortly  after- 
ward were  walking  among  their  immense  trunks.  A  partial 
examination  revealed  the  fact,  that  a  second  grove  of  trees  had 
been  found,  that  was  far  more  extensive  than  that  of  Calaveras, 
and  many  of  the  trees  fully  as  large  as  those  belonging  to  that 
world-renowned  group. 

Early  the  following  spring,  Mr.  Clark  discovered  two  smaller 
groves  of  large  trees,  of  the  same  class1  and  variety,  each  not  ex- 
ceeding a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  distance  from  the  other. 

About  the  end  of  July  of  the  same  year,  he  discovered  another 
large  grove  upon  the  head  waters  of  the  Frezno  ;  and  two  days 


174  SCENES   IN    CALIFORNIA. 

afterward,  Mr.  L.  A.  Holmes,  of  the  Mariposa  Gazette,  and  J  udge 
Fitzlmgh,  while  on  a  hunting  excursion,  saw  the  tracks  of  Mr. 
Clark's  mule  as  they  passed  the  same  group ;  and  as  both  these 
parties  were  very  thirsty  at  the  time,  and  near  the  top  of  the  ridge 
at  sundown,  without  water  for  themselves  and  animals,  they  were 
anxious  to  find  this  luxury  and  a  good  camping-place  before  dark. 
Consequently,  they  did  not  deem  it  best  then  to  tarry  to  explore 
it,  intending  to  pay  this  grove  a  visit  at  some  early  time  of  leisure 
in  the  future.  This  interesting  task,  however,  seemed  to  be  re- 
served for  the  writer  and  Mr.  Clark,  on  the  2d  and  3d  of  July,  1859. 
With  this  short  epitome  of  the  discovery  of  these  additional 
wonders,  we  shall  now  give  a  brief  narrative  of  a  visit  paid  them. 

THE    MARIPOSA   GROVES    OF    MAMMOTH    TREES. 

Arriving  at  Clark's  Ranche  (situated  about  half-way  between 
the  Great  Valley  and  Mariposa),  Mr.  Galen  Clark,  the  proprietor 
of  the  ranche,  very  kindly  offered  not  only  to  guide  us  through  the 
Mariposa  Grove  of  mammoth  trees,  but  also  to  conduct  us  to  the 
Frezno  Grove ;  observing  that,  although  the  latter  had  been  dis- 
covered by  himself  the  previous  year,  it  had  not  yet  been  examined 
or  explored  by  any  one.  Of  course,  as  the  reader  may  guess,  this 
offer  was  too  generous,  and  too  much  in  accordance  with  our 
wishes,  to  be  declined.  Our  preparations  completed,  and  when 
about  to  mount  into  the  saddle,  we  both  stood  waiting.  "  Are 
you  ready  ?"  asked  our  guide.  "  Quite,"  was  the  prompt  re- 
joinder ;  "  but  haven't  you  forgotten  your  hat,  Mr.  Clark  ?"  "  Oh, 
no,"  he  replied,  "  I  never  have  been  able  to  wear  a  hat  since  I  had 
the  fever  some  years  ago,  and  I  like  to  go  without  now,better  than 
I  did  then  to  wear  one."  So  much  for  habit.* 

With  our  fire-arms  across  our  shoulders,  and  our  blankets  and 
a  couple  of  days'  provisions  at  the  back  of  our  saddles,  we  pro- 
ceeded for  a  short  distance  through  the  thick,  heavy  grass  of  the 
ranche,  and  commenced  the  gradual  ascent  of  a  well-timbered  side- 
hill,  on  the  edge  of  the  valley,  and  up  and  over  numerous  low 
ridges,  all  of  which  were  more  or  less  covered  with  wild  flowers, 

*  Mr.  C.  has  since  been  able  to  abandon  this  habit. 


THE   MAMMOTH   TKEES    OF   MAEIPOSA    AND    FREZNO. 


175 


on  our  way  to  the  Mariposa  Grove.  Although  the  trail  was  well 
worn  and  good,  yet,  on  account  of  the  long  ascent  to  the  summit 
of  the  ridge,  it  was  with  no  small  pleasure  that  we  found  ourselves 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  grove. 


THE    "TWINS,"   IN  THE  MARIPOSA   GROVE. 
Sketched  from  nature,  by  G.  Tirrel. 

Who  can  picture,  in  language,  or  on  canvas,  all  the  sublime 
depths  of  wonder  that  flow  to  the  soul  in  thrilling  and  intense 
surprise,  when  the  eye  looks  upon  these  great  marvels  ?  Long 
vistas  of  forest  shades,  formed  by  immense  trunks  of  trees,  extend- 
ing hither  and  thither :  now  arched  by  the  overhanging  branches 
of  the  lofty  taxodiums,  then  by  the  drooping  boughs  of  the  white- 
blossomed  dogwood ;  while  the  high,  moaning  sweep  of  the  pines, 
and  the  low  whispering  swell  of  the  firs,  sung  awe-inspiring  an- 
thems to  their  great  Planter. 

The  Indians,  in  years  that  are  past,  have,  with  Yandal  hands, 
set  portions  of  this  magnificent  forest  on  fire ;  so  that  burnt  stumps 
of  trees  and  blackened  underbrush  frown  upon  you  from  several 
points.  Indeed,  many  of  the  largest  and  noblest  looking  are 
badly  deformed  from  this  cause.  Still,  beautiful  clumps  of  from 


176 


SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


three  to  ten  trees  in  each,  and  others  standing  alone,  are  numerous, 
sound,  and  well  formed. 

"  Passing  up  the  ravine,  or  basin,"  says  Mr.  J.  Lamson,  who 
kindly  sent  us  the  sketch  from  which  this  engraving  is  made, 
"  we  came  to  a  large  stem,  whose  top  had  been  stripped  of  its 
branches,  giving  it  somewhat  the  resemblance  of  an  immense 
spear,  and  forcibly  reminding  one  of  Milton's  description  of  Satan's 
weapon  of  that  name  : 

'To  equal  which,  the  tallest  pine, 
Hewn  on  Norwegian  hills  to  be  the  mast 
Of  some  great  ammiral,  were  but  a  wand.' 

Believing  this  to  be  far  greater  than  any  tree  Milton  ever  dreamed 


SATAN'S  SPEAR. 


THE    MAMMOTH    TUBES    OF    MAKIPOSA    AND    FREZNO.  ITT 

of,  and  fully  equal  to  the  wants  of  any  reasonable  Prince  of 
Darkness,  in  compliment  to  the  poet  and  his  hero,  we  named  it 
'  Satan's  Spear.'  Its  circumference  is  seventy-eight  feet. 

"  Several  rods  to  the  left  of  this,  is  another  large  trunk,  with  a 
dilapidated  top,  presenting  the  appearance  of  a  tower,  and  is 
called  i  The  Giant's  Tower ;'  seventy  feet  in  circumference.  Beyond 
this,  stand  two  double  trees,  which  have  been  named  '  The  Twin 
Sisters.'  Still  further  on,  is  a  tree  with  a  straight  and  slender 
body,  and  a  profusion  of  beautiful  foliage ;  near  which,  frowned 
a  savage-looking  monster,  with  a  scarred  and  knotted  trunk,  and 
gnarled  and  broken  branches,  bringing  to  one's  recollection  the 
story  of  '  Beauty  and  the  Beast.'  Crossing  the  ravine  near  '  Satan's 
Spear,'  there  are  many  fine  trees  upon  the  side  and  summit  of  the 
ridge.  One  of  the  finest,  whose  circumference  is  sixty  feet,  and 
whose  top  consists  of  a  mass  of  foliage  of  exceeding  beauty,  is 
called  'The  Queen  of  the  Forest.'  Above  these,  stands  'The 
Artist's  Encampment,'  seventy-seven  feet  in  circumference,  though 
so  large  a  portion  of  its  trunk  has  decayed  or  been  burned  away 
to  a  height  of  thirty  feet,  as  materially  to  lessen  its  dimensions." 

As  the  size  of  the  principal  trees  was  ascertained  by  Mr.  Clark, 
and  Colonel  Warren,  editor  of  the  California  Farmer,  in  which 
journal  it  first  appeared,  and  as  their  measurements  doubtless 
approximated  to  correctness,  we  give  them  below : 

"  The  first  tree  was  '  The  Rambler,'  and  measuring  it  three  and 
a  half  feet  from  the  ground,  we  found  it  eighty  feet  in  circumfer- 
ence ;  close  at  the  ground,  one  hundred  and  two  feet ;  and,  care- 
fully surveyed,  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high.  Tree  No.  2, 
nearly  fifty  feet  in  circumference.  No.  3  (at  the  spring),  ninety 
feet,  three  and  a  half  feet  from  the  ground ;  one  hundred  and  two 
at  the  ground ;  and  three  hundred  feet  high.  Nos.  4  and  5  ('  The 
Sisters')  measured  eighty-two  and  eighty -seven  feet  in  circumfer- 
ence, and  two  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  high.  Many  of  the 
trees  had  lost  portions  of  their  tops,  by  the  storms  that  had  swept 
over  them. 

"The  whole  number  measured, was  one  hundred  and  fifty-five, 
and  these  comprise  but  about  half  the  group,  which  we  estimate 
12 


ITS 


SCENES    IN   CALIFORNIA. 


cover  about  two  to  three  hundred  acres,  and  lie  in  a  triangular 
form.  Some  of  the  trees  first  meet  your  view  in  the  vale  of  the 
mountain ;  thence  rise  southeasterly  and  northwesterly,  till  you 
find  yourself  gazing  upon  the  neighboring  points,  some  ten  miles 
from  you,  whose  tops  are  still  covered  with  their  winter  snows. 
The  following  are  the  numbers  and  measurement  of  the  trees  :* 

1  tree,    40  feet  in  circumference. 

1  tree,    35  feet  do 

2  trees,  36  feet  each        do 
2  trees,  32  feet  each        do 

1  tree,    28  feet  do 

2  trees,  100  feet  each        do 
1  tree,    82  feet  do 

1  tree,    80  feet  do 

2  trees,  77  feet  each  do 
1  tree,    76  feet  do 

3  trees,  75  feet  each  do 

1  tree,    64  feet  do 

4  trees,  65  feet  each       do 

2  trees,  63  feet  each       do 

1  tree,    61  feet  do 
10  trees,  60  feet  each       do 

3  trees,  59  feet  each       do 

2  trees,  51  feet  each       do 

6  trees,  50  feet  each       do 
1  tree,    49  feet        .        do 
1  tree,    47  feet  do 

1  tree,  46  feet  do 

2  trees,  45  feet  each  do 
1  tree,  43  feet  do 

7  trees,  44  feet  each  do 

4  trees,  42  feet  each  do 

3  trees,  41  feet  each       do 

8  trees,  40  feet  each       do 

"  Some  of  these  were  in  groups  of  three,  four,  and  even  five, 
seeming  to  spring  from  the  seeds  of  one  cone.  Several  of  these 
glorious  trees  we  have,  in  association  wTith  our  friend,  named. 
The  one  near  the  spring  we  call  the  Fountain  Tree,  as  it  is  used  as 
the  source  of  the  refreshment.  Two  trees,  measuring  ninety  and 
ninety-seven  feet  in  circumference,  were  named  the  Two  Friends. 

*  Prof.  Whitney  gives  the  total  number  of  trees  here  at  365,  of  a  diameter  of  one 
foot  or  over;  and  125  trees,  over  40  feet  in  circumference. 


1  tree,  102  feet  in  circumference. 

1  tree,    97  feet 

do 

1  tree,    92  feet 

do 

3  trees,  76  feet  each 

do 

1  tree,    72  feet 

do 

3  trees,  70  feet  each 

do 

1  tree,    68  feet 

do 

1  tree,    66  feet 

do 

1  tree,    63  feet 

do 

3  trees,  63  feet  each 

do 

2  trees,  60  feet  each 

do 

1  tree,    59  feet 

do 

1  tree,    58  feet 

do 

3  trees,  57  feet  each 

do 

1  tree.    56  feet 

do 

3  trees,  55  feet  each 

do 

2  trees,  54  feet  each 

do 

1  tree,    53  feet 

do 

1  tree,    51  feet 

do 

4  trees,  50  feet  each 

do 

6  trees,  49  feet  each 

do 

5  trees,  48  feet  each 

do 

2  trees,  47  feet  each 

do 

3  trees,  46  feet  each 

do 

2  trees,  45  feet  each 

do 

1  tree,    44  feet 

do 

2  trees,  43  feet  eacli 

do 

2  trees,  42  feet  each 

do 

THE   MAMMOTH   TKEES   OF   MAKIPOSA   AND   FREZNO.  179 

The  groups  of  trees  consisted  of  many  of  peculiar  beauty  and 
interest.  One  of  those,  which  measured  one  hundred  feet  in  cir- 
cumference, was  of  exceeding  gigantic  proportions,  and  towered 
up  three  hundred  feet ;  yet  a  portion  of  its  top,  where  it  apparent- 
ly was  ten  feet  in  diameter,  had  been  swept  off  by  storms.  While 
we  were  measuring  this  tree,  a  large  eagle  came  and  perched  upon 
it,  emblematical  of  the  grandeur  of  this  forest  as  well  as  that  of 
our  country. 

"  Near  by  it  stood  a  smaller  tree,  that  seemed  a  child  to  it,  yet 
it  measured  forty-seven  feet  in  circumference.  Not  far  from  it 
was  a  group  of  four  splendid  trees,  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
high,  which  we  named  the  "  Four  Pillars,"  each  over  fifty  feet  in 
circumference.  Two  gigantic  trees,  seventy-five  and  seventy-seven 
feet  in  circumference,  were  named  "  Washington"  and  "  Lafay- 
ette ;"  these  were  noble  trees.  Another  group  we  called  "  The 
Graces,"  from  their  peculiar  beauty.  One  mighty  tree  that  had 
fallen  by  fire  and  burned  out,  into  which  we  walked  for  a  long 
distance,  we  found  to  be  the  abode  of  the  grizzly ;  there  he  had 
made  his  nest,  and  it  excited  the  nerves  to  enter  so  dark  an  abode. 
Yet  it  was  a  fitting  place  for  a  grizzly.  Another  tree,  measuring 
eighty  feet,  and  standing  aloof,  was  called  the  Lone  Giant ;  it 
went  heavenward  some  three  hundred  feet.  One  monster  tree 
that  had  fallen  and  been  burned  hollow,  has  been  recently  tried, 
by  a  party  of  our  friends,  riding,  as  they  fashionably  do,  in  the 
saddle,  through  the  tunnel  of  the  tree.  These  friends  rode  through 
this  tree,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  fifty-three  feet.  The  tree 
had  been  long  fallen,  and  measured,  ere  its  bark  was  gone  and  its 
sides  charred,  over  one  hundred  feet  in  circumference,  and  prob- 
ably three  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height. 

"The  mightiest  tree  that  has  yet  been  found,  now  lies  upon  the 
ground,  and,  fallen  as  it  lies,  it  is  a  wonder  still ;  it  is  charred,  and 
time  has  stripped  it  of  its  heavy  bark,  and  yet  across  the  butt 
of  the  tree  as  it  lay  upturned,  it  measured  thirty-three  feet  with- 
out its  bark ;  there  can  be  no  question  that  in  its  vigor,  with  its 
bark  on,  it  was  forty  feet  in  diameter,  or  One  hundred  and  twenty 
feet  in  circumference.  Only  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  of 


180  SCENES   IN   CALIFORNIA. 

the  trunk  remains,  yet  the  cavity  where  it  fell  is  still  a  large 
hollow  beyond  the  portion  burned  off;  and,  upon  pacing  it, 
measuring  from  the  root  one  hundred  and  twenty  paces,  and  esti- 
mating the  branches,  this  tree  must  have  been  four  hundred  feet 
high.  We  believe  it  to  be  the  largest  tree  yet  discovered." 

This  grove  of  mammoth  trees  consists  of  about  three  hundred, 
more  or  less.  It  must  not  be  supposed  that  these  large  taxodiums 
monopolize  the  one  mile  by  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  ground  over 
which  they  are  scattered  ;  as  some  of  the  tallest,  largest,  and 
most  grac'eful  of  sugar  pines  and  Douglass  firs  we  ever  saw,  add 
their  beauty  of  form  and  foliage  to  the  group,  and  contribute  much 
to  the  imposing  grandeur  of  the  effect. 

THE    SOUTH    GROVE. 

Crossing  a  low  ridge  to  the  south-westward  of  the  large  grove, 
is  another  small  one,  before  alluded  to,  in  which  there  are  many 
fine  trees.  We  measured  one  sturdy,  gnarled  old  fellow,  which, 
although  badly  burned,  and- the  bark  almost  gone,  so  that  a  large 
portion  of  its  original  size  was  lost,  is,  nevertheless,  still  ninety 
feet  in  circumference,  and  which  wre  took  the  liberty  of  naming 
the  "  Grizzled  Giant," 

An  immense  trunk  lay  stretched  upon  the  ground,  that  meas- 
ured two  hundred  and  sixty-four  feet  in  length,  although  a  con- 
siderable portion  of  its  crown  has  been  burned  away.  This  was 
named  by  Mrs.  J.  C.  Fremont,  "  King  Arthur,  the  Prostrate 
Monarch." 

VISIT   TO   THE   FREZNO    GROVE. 

Leaving  the  "  South  Grove,"  we  struck  across  Big  Creek  and 
its  branches,  in  a  course  almost  due  south,  as  near  as  the  rugged, 
rock-bound  mountain  spurs  would  permit,  in  the  direction  of  the 
Frezno  group,  some  of  whose  majestic  and  feathery  tops  could  be 
seen  from  the  ridge  we  had  left  behind. 

Apparently,  these  trees  were  not  more  than  six  miles  distant 
from  the  Mariposa  Grove ;  but  which,  owing  to  the  trailless  course 
we  had  to  take,  down  and  across  the  spurs  of  Big  Creek,  were  not 


THE   MAMMOTH   TREES    OF   MAEIPOSA   AND   FREZN0.  181 


THE   GRIZZLED   GIANT. 
From  Nature,  ly  G.  Tirrel. 


182  *  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

less  than  ten  miles.  About  six  o'clock  p.  M.,  we  arrived  at  the 
foot  of  some  of  the  mammoth  trees,  that  stood  on  the  ridge,  like 
sentinel  guards  to  the  grove.  These  were  from  fifty  to  sixty  feet, 
only,  in  circumference. 

As  the  sun  was  fast  sinking,  we  deemed  it  the  most  prudent 
course  to  look  out  for  a  good  camping-ground.  Fortunately,  we 
discovered  at  first  the  only  patch  of  grass  to  be  found  for  several 
miles ;  and,  as  we  were  making  our  way  through  the  forest,  feel- 
ing that  most  probably  we  were  the  first  whites  who  had  ever 
broken  its  profound  solitudes,  we  heard  a  splashing  sound,proceed- 
ing  from  the  direction  of  the  bright  green  we  had  seen.  This, 
with  the  rustling  of  bushes,  reminded  us  that  we  were  invading 
the  secluded  home  of  the  grizzly  bear,  and  that  good  sport  or  danger 
would  soon  give  variety  to  our  employments. 

Hastily  dismounting,  and  unsaddling  our  animals,  we  picketed 
them  in  the  swampy  grass-plat,  still  wet  with  the  recent  spirtings 
of  several  bears'  feet  that  had  hurriedly  left  it ;  then  kindling  a 
fire,  to  indicate  by  its  smoke  the  direction  of  our  camp,  we  started 
quietly  out  on  a  bear  hunt. 

Cautiously  peering  over  a  low  ridge  but  a  few  yards  from  camp, 
we  saw  two  large  bears  slowly  moving  away,  when  a  slight  sound 
from  us  arrested  their  attention  and  progress.  Mr.  Clark  was 
about  raising  his  rifle  to  fire,  when  we  whispered — "Hold,  Mr.  C., 
if  you  please — let  us  have  the  first  shot  at  that  immense  fellow 
there."  "With  pleasure,"  was  the  prompt  response,  and,  at  a 
distance  of  twenty-five  yards,  a  heavy  charge  of  pistol  balls,  from 
an  excellent  shot-gun, was  poured  into  his  body  just  behind  the 
shoulder,  when  he  made  a  plunge  of  a  few  feet,  and,  wheeling 
round,  stood  for  a  few  moments  as  though  debating  in  his  own 
mind  whether  he  should  return  the  attack  or  retreat ;  but  a  ball 
from  the  unerring  rifle  of  our  obliging  guide  determined  him  upon 
the  latter  bourse.  The  other  had  preceded  him. 

We  immediately  started  in  pursuit ;  and  although  their  course 
could  readily  be  followed  by  blood  dropping  from  the  wounds,  a 
dense  mass  of  chaparal  prevented  us  from  getting  sight  of  either 
again,  although  we  walked  around  upon  the  look-out  until  the 


THE    MAMMOTH    TREES    OF    MARIPOSA    AND    FKEZNO.  183 

darkness  compelled  us  to  return  to  camp,  where,  after  supper, 
we  were  soon  soundly  sleeping.  Early  the  next  morning  we  fol- 
lowed up  the  divertissement  for  a  few  hours  ;  but  meeting  with 
no  game  larger  than  grouse,  we  commenced  the  exploration  of  the 
grove. 

This  consists  of  about  five  hundred  trees  of  the  taxodium  family, 
on  about  as  many  acres  of  dense  forest  land,  gently  undulating. 
The  two  largest  we  could  find  measured  eighty-one  feet  each  in 
circumference,  well  formed,  and  straight  from  the  ground  to  the 
top.  The  others,  equally  sound  and  straight,  were  from  fifty-one 
feet  to  seventy-five  feet  in  circumference.  The  sugar  pines  (Pinus 
lambertiana)  were  remarkably  large  ;  one  that  was  prostrate  near 
our  camp  measured  twenty-nine  feet  and  six  inches  in  circumfer- 
ence, and  two  hundred  and  thirty-seven  feet  in  length. 

It  ought  here  to  be  remarked,  that  Mr.  L.  A.  Holmes  and  Judge 
Fitzhugh  saw  an  extensive  grove  of  much  larger  trees  than  these 
on  the  head-waters  of  the  San  Joaquin  River,  about  twelve  miles 
east  of  those  on  the  Frezno ;  but  it  has  never  been  explored. 

All  of  these  trees  are  precisely  of  the  same  genus  and  variety  as 
those  of  Calaveras,  and  will  abundantly  reward  visitors  who  spend 
a  day  or  two  here,  on  their  way  to  the  Yo-Semite  Valley. 

There  are  no  less  than  ten  groves  of  these  remarkable  trees 
(Sequoia  giganted)  already  discovered  in  California.  The  Calave. 
ras,  containing  about  one  hundred  trees ;  the  great  South  Grove, 
having  one  thousand  three  hundred  and  eighty ;  the  South  Tuo- 
lumne  grove,  thirty-one ;  one  unnamed,  on  the  south  side  of 
the  dividing  ridge  between  the  Tuoluinne  and  Merced  rivers 
below  Crane  Flat,  forty-two  trees ;  the  Mariposa  groves  num- 
bering three  hundred  and  sixty-five ;  the  Frezno,  about  five  hun- 
dred ;  the  San  Joaquin  (estimated  at)  seven  hundred ;  the  Kings 
and  Kaweah  River,  belt  of  big  trees  extending  for  some  ten  miles, 
thought  to  contain  thousands ;  the  North  Tule  River,  and  the 
South  Tale  River,  the  trees  of  which  are  scattered  over  several 
square  miles.  These  last-named  groves  were  discovered  by  Mr. 
T)'  Ileureuse,  of  the  State  Geological  Survey,  in  1867. 


184 


SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


METAL   YARD   AND   ENTRANCE   TO   THE   ALMADEN   MINE. 


CHAPTER  YI. 

THE    QUICKSILVER   MINES   OF   NEW   ALMADEN  AND 
HENRIQUITA 

4 

THE   KOUTE   TO  NEW   ALMADEN. 

SIXTY-FIVE  miles  south  of  San  Francisco,  near  the  head  of  the 
beautiful  and  fertile  valley  of  San  Jose,  and  in  an  eastern  spur  of 
the  Coast  Range  of  mountains,  is  the  quicksilver  mine  of  New 
Almaden. 

With  your  permission,  kind  reader,  we    will  enter  the  railway 


QUICKSILVER   MINES.  185 

train  waiting  in  San  Francisco,  and,  as  the  clock  strikes  eight, 
start  at  once  on  our  journey.  Lucky  for  us,  it  is  a  fine,  bright 
morning,  as  the  fog  has  cleared  off,  and  left  us  (on  a  dew-making 
excursion,  no  doubt,  up  the  country),  and  as  we  are  to  be  fellow-, 
travellers,  at  least  in  imagination,  and  wisli  to  enjoy  ourselves;  let 
us  say  good-bye  to  our  cares,  as  we  did  to  our  friends,  and  leave 
them  with  the  city  behind  us. 

How  refreshing  to  the  brow  is  the  breeze,  and  grateful  to  the 
eye  is  the  beautiful  green  of  the  gardens,  as  we  pass  them,  in  the 
suburbs  of  the  city,  on  our  way.  Even  the  hills  in  the  distance 
are  dotted  with  the  dark  green  of  the  live  oaks,  and  are  beautiful 
by  contrast. 

On,  on,  we  go,  shooting  among  hills,  travelling  through  the 
valley,  passing  farms  and  wajHside  houses,until  we  reach  the  flour- 
ishing old  Mission  of  Santa  Clara.  Here  we  long  to  linger,  and 
as  we  look  upon  the  orchards  laden  with  fruit,  we  wish  to  buy, 
beg,  or  steal,  those  cherry-cheeked  and  luscious-looking  pears ;  or 
take  a  walk  amid  the  shadows  of  the  old  Mission  church.  But, 
leaving  the  railway,  we  here  take  the  omnibus,  when  the  signal, 
'  all  aboard,"  hurries  us  to  our  seats,  and  we  soon  enter  an  avenue 
of  old  willow  and  poplar  trees,  that  extends  from  Santa  Clara  to 
San  Jose,  a  distance  of  three  miles,  and  which  was  planted  by  and 
for  the  convenience  of  the  two  Missions.  What  good,  thoughtful 
souls  those  old  padres  were.  We  fear  that  due  credit  is  not  given 
them  for  the  amount  of  civilization  they  introduced.  On  either 
side  of  this  avenue,  at  intervals,  there  are  tasteful  cottages,  flour- 
ishing farms,  nurseries,  and  gardens,  which  are  well  supplied  with 
water  from  artesian  wells. 

Arriving  in  San  Jose  we  find  a  neat  and  pleasant  agricultural 
city,  with  all  the  temptations  of  fruit  and  flowers  in  great  variety, 
and  a  brisk  business  activity  observable  in  each  department  of 
business  in  the  streets.  One  thing  may  impress  us  unfavorably 
here,  viz. :  the  large  number  of  members  of  the  legal  profession 
(thirty-seven,  we  believe)  in  so  small  a  city. 

This  fact  brought  to  mind — 


186  SCENES    IN  CALIFORNIA. 

AN   OLD    SAW. 

"  An  upper  mill,  and  lower  mill, 

Fell  out  about  the  water ; 
To  war  they  went,  that  is  to  law, 

Resolved  to  give  no  quarter. 

"  A  lawyer  was  by  each  engaged, 

And  hotly  they  contended ; 
When  fees  grew  scant,  the  war  they  waged, — 

They  judged,  'twere  better  ended. 

"The  heavy  costs  remaining  still, 

Were  settled  without  pother — 
One  lawyer  took  the  upper  mill, 

The  lower  mill  the  other." 

— and  it  set  us  to  ruminating.  But  let  us  jump  into  the  easy 
coach  in  waiting,  and  we  shall  forget  all  that,  and  have  a  very 
pleasant  ride  of  fourteen  miles  upon  a  good  road,  through  an  ever- 
green grove  of  live  oaks,  and  past  the  broad  shading  branches  of 
the  sycamore  trees,  and  in  a  couple  of  hours  find  ourselves  drink- 
ing heartily  of  the  delicious  waters  of  the  fine  cool  soda  spring,  at 
the  romantic  village  of  New  Almaden.  As  we  have  passed 
through  enough  for  one  day,  let  us  wait  until  morning,  before 
climbing  the  hill  to  examine  the  mines. 

THE   DISCOVERY   AND    OWNERSHIP    OF   THE   NEW   ALMADEN   MINE. 

This  mine  has  been  known  for  ages  by  the  Indians,  who  worked 
it  for  the  vermilion  paint  that  it  contained,  with  which  they 
ornamented  their  persons,  and  on  that  account  had  become  a 
valuable  article  of  exchange  with  other  Indians,  from  the  Gulf  of 
California  to  the  Columbia  River.  Its  existence  was  also  known 
among  the  early  settlers  of  California,  although  none  could  esti- 
mate the  character  or  value  of  the  metal. 

In  1845  a  captain  of  cavalry  in  the  Mexican  service,  named 
Castillero,  having  met  a  tribe  of  Indians  near  Bodega,  and  seeing 
their  faces  painted  with  vermilion,  obtained  from  them,  for  a 
reward,  the  necessary  information  of  its  locality,  when  he  visited 
it,  and  having  made  many  very  interesting  experiments,  and  deter- 


QUICKSILVER   MINES. 


1ST 


188 


SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


mined  the  character  of  the  metal,  he  registered  it  in  accordance 
with  the  Mexican  custom,  about  the  close  of  that  year. 

A  company  was  immediately  formed,  and  the  mine  divided  into 
twenty-four  shares,  when  the  company  immediately  commenced 
working  it  on  a  small  scale ;  but,  being  unable  to  carry  it  on  for 
want  of  capital,  in  1846  it  was  leased  out  to  an  English  and  Mexi- 
can company  for  the  term  of  sixteen  years ;  the  original  company 
to  receive  one-quarter  of  the  gross  products  for  that  time.  In 
March,  1847,  the  new  company  commenced  operations  on  a  large 
scale,  but  finding  that  to  pay  one-fourth  of  the  proceeds,  and  yet 
to  bear  all  the  expenses  of  working  the  mine,  would  incur  a  con- 
siderable loss,  they  eventually  purchased  out  most  of  the  original 
shareholders. 

In  June,  1850,  this  company  had  expended  three  hundred  and 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  THE  QUICKSILVEB  "WORKS  AT  NEW  ALMADEN. 


QUICKSILVER   MINES. 


189 


eighty-seven  thousand  eight  hundred  dollars  over  and  above  all 
their  receipts.  During  that  year,  a  new  process  of  smelting  the 
ore  was  introduced  by  a  blacksmith,  named  Baker,  which  suc- 
ceeded so  well,  that  fourteen  smelting  furnaces  have  been  erected 
by  the  company  upon  the  same  principle. 

PROCESS   OF  EXTRACTING  THE   QUICKSILVER   FROM  CINNABAR. 

The  process  of  extracting  the  quicksilver  from  the  cinnabar  is 
very  simple.  The  ore  chamber ^B.  is  filled  with  cinna- 
bar,  and  covered  securely  up ;  a  fire  is  then  kindled 
in  the  furnace  at  A,  from  which,  through  a  perforated 
wall  of  brick,  the  heat  enters  the  ore  chamber  and 
permeates  the  mass  of  ore,  from  which  arises  the 
quicksilver,  in  the  shape  of  vapor,  and,  passing  through 
the  perforated  wall  on  the  opposite  side,  enters  the 
condensing  chambers  at  C,  rising  to  the  top  of  one, 
and  falling  to  the  bottom  of  the  other,  as  indicated  by 
the  arrows,  and  as  it  passes  through  the  condensing 
chambers  (thirteen  in  number),  it  cools  and  becomes 
quicksilver.  Should  any  vapor  escape  the  last  con- 
densing chamber,  it  passes  over  a  cistern  of  cold  water 
at  D,  where,  from  an  enclosed  pipe,  water  is  scattered 


SECTION  OF  THE   SMELTING   FURNACE. 


over  a  sieve,  and  falls  upon  and  cools  the  vapor  as  it  passes  into 
the  chimney,  or  funnel  chamber,  at  E. 

The  quicksilver  then  runs  to  the  lower  end  of  each  condensing 
chamber,  thence  through  a  small  pipe  into  a  trough  that  extends 
from  one  end  of  the  building  to  the  other,  where  it  enters  a  large 
circular  caldron,  from  which  it  is  weighed  into  flasks,  in  quantities 


190 


SCENES   IN   CALIFORNIA. 


MEXICANS   WEIGHING   QUICKSILVER. 

of  seventy-five  pounds.    To  save  time,  one  set  of  furnaces  is  gener- 
ally cooling  and  being  filled,  while  the  other  is  burning. 

Now,  let  us  gradually  ascend  to  the  patio,  or  yard,  in  front  of 
the  mine,  a  visit  to  which  has  been  so  truthfully  and  beautifully 
described  by  Mrs.  S.  A.  Downer,  that  we  are  tempted  to  introduce 
the  reader  to  such  good  company. 

THE   ROAD   TO   THE   MINE. 

"At  the  right,  was  a  deep  ravine,  through  which  flowed  a 
brook,  supplied  by  springs  in  the  mountains,  and  which,  in  places, 
was  completely  hid  by  tangled  masses  of  wild-wood,  among  which 
we  discerned  willows  along  its  edge,  with  oak,  sycamore,  and 
buckeye.  Although  late  in  the  summer,  roses  and  convolvuli, 
with  several  varieties  of  floss,  were  in  blossom ;  with  sweet-brier, 
honeysuckle,  and  various  plants,  many  of  which  were  unknown 
to  us,  not  then  in  bloom,  and  which  Nature,  with  prodigal  hand, 
has  strewn  in  bounteous  profusion  over  every  acre  of  the  land. 
To  the  left  of  the  mountain  side,  the  wild  gooseberry  grows  in 
abundance.  The  fruit  is  large  and  of  good  flavor,  though  of  rough 
exterior.  Wild  oats,  diversified  with  shrubs  and  live-oak,  spread 


QUICKSILVER   MINES.  191 

around  us,  till  we  reach  the  patio,  nine  hundred  and  forty  feet 
above  the  base  of  the  mountain.  The  road  is  something  over  a 
mile,  although  there  are  few  persons  who  have  travelled  it  on  foot, 
under  a  burning  sun,  but  would  be  willing  to  make  their  affidavits 
it  was  near  five. 

"  Let  us  pause  and  look  around  us.  For  a  distance  of  many 
miles,  nothing  is  seen  but  the  tops  of  successive  mountains ;  then 
appears  the  beautiful  valley  of  San  Juan,  while  the  Coast  Range 
is  lost  in  distance.  The  patio  is  an  area  of  more  than  an  acre  in 
extent ;  and  still  above  us,  but  not  directly  in  view,  is  a  Mexican 
settlement,  composed  of  the  families  and  lodging-cabins  of  the 
miners.  There  is  a  store,  and  provisions  are  carried  up  on  pack- 
mules,  for  retail  among  the  miners,  who  may  truly  be  said  to  live 
from  hand  to  mouth.  This  point  had  been  the  resort  of  the 
aborigines,  not  only  of  this  State,  but  from  as  far  as  the  Columbia 
River,  to  obtain  the  paint  (vermilion)  found  in  the  cinnabar,  and 
which  they  used  in  the  decoration  of  their  persons.  How  long 
this  had  been  known  to  them,  cannot  be  ascertained ;  probably  a 
long  time,  for  they  had  worked  into  the  mountain  some  fifty  or 
sixty  feet,  with  what  implements  can  only  be  conjectured.  [Stones 
and  pointed  sticks. — ED.]  A  quantity  of  round  stones,  evidently 
from  the  brook,  were  found  in  a  passage,  with  a  number  of  skele- 
tons ;  the  destruction  of  life  having  been  caused,  undoubtedly,  by 
a  sudden  caving:  in  of  the  earth,  burying:  the  unskilled  savages  in 

t/          O  O 

the  midst  of  their  labors.  It  had  been  supposed  for  some  time 
that  the  ore  possibly  contained  the  precious  metals,  but  no  regular 
assay  was  made  till  1845 ;  a  gentleman  now  largely  interested, 
procured  a  retort,  not  doubting  that  gold,  or  at  least  silver,  would 
crown  his  efforts.  Its  real  character  was  made  known  by  its 
pernicious  effects  upon  the  system  of  the  experimenter.  The 
discovery  was  instantly  communicated  to  a  brother,  a  member  of 
a  wealthy  firm  in  Mexico,  who,  with  others,  purchased  the  property, 
consisting  of  two  leagues,  held  under  a  Spanish  title,  of  the 
original  owner.  For  some  years  but  little  was  done.  The  ore 
proved  both  abundant  and  rich,  but  required  the  outlay  of  a  vast 
amount  of  capital  to  be  worked  to  advantage ;  and  while  Nature, 


192 


SCENES    IN   CALIFORNIA. 


with  more  than  her  usual  liberality,  had  furnished  in  the  mountain 
itself  all  the  accessories  for  the  successful  prosecution  of  her  favors, 
man  was  too  timid  to  avail  himself  of  her  gifts. 

PROCESS    OF   WORKING   THE   MINE. 

"In  1850,  a  tunnel  was  commenced  in  the  side  of  the  moun- 
tain, in  a  line  with  the  patio,  and  which  has  already  been  carried' 
to  the  distance  of  one  thousand  one  hundred  feet  by  ten -feet  wide, 
and  ten  feet  high  to  the  crown  of  the  arch,  which  is  strongly 
roofed  with  heavy  timber  throughout  its  whole  length.  Through 
this  the  rail-track  passes ;  the  car  receiving  the  ore  as  it  is  brought 
on  the  backs  of  the  carriers  (tenateros)  from  the  depths  below,  or 
from  the  heights  above.  The  track  being  free,  we  will  now  take 
a  seat  on  the  car  and  enter  the  dark  space.  Not  an  object  is 
visible  save  the  faint  torch-light  at  the  extreme  end ;  and  a  chill- 
ing dampness  seizes  on  the  frame,  so  suddenly  bereft  of  warmth 
and  sunshine.  This  sensation  does  not  continue  as  we  descend 

into  the  subterranean  caverns 
below ;  and  now  commence  the 
wonders  as  well  as  the  dangers 
of  the  undertaking.  By  the  light 
of  a  torch  we  pass  through  a  damp 
passage  of  some  length,  a  sud- 
den turn  bringing  us  into  a  sort  of 
vestibule,  where,  in  a  niche  at 
one  side,  is  placed  a  rude  shrine 
of  the  tutelary  saint,  or  protectress 
of  the  mine — Nuestra  Senora  de 
Guadalupe,  before  which  lighted 
candles  are  kept  constantly  burn- 
ing, and  before  entering  upon  the 
labors  of  the  day  or  night,  each 
man  visits  this  shrine  in  devotion. 
You  descend  a  perpendicular  lad- 
der, formed  by  notches  cut  into 
a  solid  log,  perhaps  twelve  feet ; 


SHRINE   OF  SENORA   DE  GTTADALUPK 


QUICKSILVER   MINES.  193 

then  turn  and  pass  a  narrow  corner,  where  a  frightful  gulf  seems 
yawning  to  receive  you.  Carefully  threading  your  way  over  the 
very  narrowest  of  footholds,  you  turn  into  another  passage  black 
as  night,  to  descend  into  a  flight  of  steps  formed  in  the  side  of  the 
cave,  tread  over  some  loose  stones,  turn  around,  step  over  arches, 
down  into  another  passage  that  leads  into  many  dark  and  intricate 
windings  and  descendings,  or  chambers  supported  by  but  a  column 
of  earth  ;  now  stepping  this  way,  then  that,  twisting  and  turning, 
all  tending  down,  dowrn  to  where,  through  the  darkness  of  mid- 
night, one  can  discern  the  faint  glimmer,  which  shines  like  Shak- 
speare's  '  good  deed  in  a  naughty  world,'  and  which  it  seems 
impossible  one  can  ever  reach.  We  were  shown  a  map  giving 
the  subterranean  topography  of  this  mine ;  and  truly,  the  crossings 
and  recrossings,  the  windings  and  intricacies  of  the  labyrinthine 
passages,  could  only  be  compared  to  the  streets  of  a  dense  city, 
while  nothing  short  of  the  clue  furnished  Theseus  by  Ariadne, 
would  insure  the  safe  return,  into  day,  of  the  unfortunate  pilgrim 
who  should  enter  without  a  guide. 

"  The  miners  have  named  the  different  passages  after  their  saints, 
and  run  them  off  as  readily  as  we  do  the  streets  of  a  city ;  and 
after  exhausting  the  names  of  all  the  saints  in  the  calendar,  have 
commenced  on  different  animals,  one  of  which  is  not  inaptly  called 
El  Elefante.  Some  idea  of  the  extent  and  number  of  these  pass- 
ages may  be  formed,  when  we  state,  that  sixty  pounds  of  candles 
are  used  by  the  workmen  in  the  twenty-four  hours.  Another  turn 
brings  us  upon  some  men  at  work.  One  stands  upon  a  single 
plank  placed  high  above  us  in  an  arch,  and  he  is  drilling  into  the 
rock  above  him  for  the  purpose  of  placing  a  charge  of  powder.  It 
appears  very  dangerous,  yet  we  are  told  that  no  lives  have  ever 
been  lost,  and  no  more  serious  accidents  have  occurred  than  the 
bruising  of  a  hand  or  limb,  from  carelessness  in  blasting.  How 
he  can  maintain  his  equilibrium  is  a  mystery  to  us,  while  with 
every  thrust  of  the  drill  his  strong  chest  heaves,  and  he  gives 
utterance  to  a  sound  something  between  a  grunt  and  a  groan, 
which  is  supposed  by  them  to  facilitate  their  labor.  Some  six  or 
eight  men  working  in  one  spot,  each  keeping  up  his  agonizing 
13 


194 


SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


sound,  awaken  a  keen  sympathy.  Were  it  only  a  cheerful  sing- 
song, one  could  stand  it ;  but  in  that  dismal  place,  their  wizard- 
like  forms  and  appearance,  relieved  but  by  the  light  of  a  single 
tallow  candle  stuck  in  the  side  of  the  rock,  just  sufficient  to  make 
'  darkness  visible,'  is  like  opening  to  us  the  shades  of  Tartarus ; 
and  the  throes  elicited  from  over-wrought  human  bone  and  muscle, 
sound  like  the  anguish  wrung  from  infernal  spirits,  who  hope  for 
no  escape. 


MIXEROS   AT   WORK   IN    THE   MINE. 


"These  men  work  in  companies,  one  set  by  night,  another  by 
day,  alternating  week  about.  We  inquired  the  average  duration 
of  life  of  the  men  who  work  under  ground,  and  found  that  it  did 
not  exceed  that  of  forty-five  years,  and  the  diseases  to  which  they 
are  mostly  subject  are  those  of  the  chest ;  showing  conclusively 
how  essential  light  and  air  are  to  animal,  as  w^ell  as  vegetable  life. 
With  a  sigh  and  a  shudder  we  step  aside  to  allow  another  set  of 
laborers  to  pass.  There  they  come ;  up  and  up,  from  almost  in- 
terminable depths,  each  one  as  he  passes  panting,  puffing,  and 
wheezing,  like  a  high  pressure  steamboat,  as  with  straining  nerve 


QUICKSILVER   MINES. 


195 


TENATEKOS   CARRYING  THE   ORE   FROM   THE   MINE. 

and  quivering  muscle  he  staggers  under  the  load,  which  nearly 
bends  him  double.  These  are  the  tenateros,  carrying  the  ore  from 
the  mine  to  deposit  it  in  the  cars ;  and,  like  the  miners,  they  are  bur- 
dened with  no  superfluous  clothing.  A  shirt  and  trowsers,  or  the 
trowsers  without  a  shirt,  a  pair  of  leathern  sandals  fastened  at  the 
ankle,  with  a  felt  cap,  or  the  crown  of  an  old  hat,  completes  their 
costume. 

"  The  ore  is  placed  in  a  flat  leather  bag  (talego]  with  a  band  two 
inches  wide  that  passes  around  the  forehead,  the  weight  resting 
along  the  shoulders  and  spine.  Two  hundred  pounds  of  rough 
ore  are  thus  borne  up,  flight  after  flight,  of  perpendicular  steps ; 


196  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

now  winding  through  deep  caverns,  or  threading  the  most  tortu- 
ous passages ;  again  ascending  over  earth  and  loose  stones,  and 
up  places  that  have  not  even  an  apology  for  steps,  all  the  while 
lost  in  Cimmerian  darkness,  but  for  a  torch  borne  aloft,  which 
flings  its  sickly  rays  over  the  dismal  abysm,  showing  that  one  un- 
wary step  would  plunge  him  beyond  any  possibility  of  human  aid 
or  succor.  Not  always,  however,  do  they  ascend;  they  some- 
times come  from  above ;  yet  we  should  judge  the  toil  and  danger 
to  be  nearly  as  great  in  one  case  as  in  the  other.  Thirty  trips  will 
these  men  make  in  one  day,  from  the  lowest  depths. 

"  For  once  we  were  disposed  to  quarrel  with  the  long,  loose  skirts, 
that  not  only  impeded  our  progress,  but  prevented  our  attempt  to 
ascend  to  the  summit,  and  enjoy  from  thence  a  prospect  of  great 
beauty  and  extent.  But  one  woman,  we  believe,  has  ever  accom- 
plished this  feat,  which,  severely  tasks  the  strength  of  manhood. 

"We  will  now  follow  ihetenateros,  as  they  load  the  car  with  the 
contents  of  their  sacks,  and  run  after  it  into  the  open  air.  There 
they  go,  with  shouts  of  laughter ;  and  really,  as  one  emerges  into 
the  warm  sunshine,  the  change  is  most  inspiriting.  They  have 
reached  the  end  of  the  track,  and  throw  off  the  great  lumps  of  ore 
without  an  effort,  as  if  they  were  mere  cabbages.  What  capacious 
chests,  and  how  gaily  they  work  !  Such  gleeful  activity  we  never 
before  beheld.  The  large  lumps  deposited,  they  now  seize  shovels, 
and  jumping  on  the  cars,  the  small  lumps  mixed  with  earth  are 
cleared  off  with  the  most  astonishing  celerity.  Do  but  behold 
that  fellow  of  Doric  build,  with  brawny  muscles,  and  who  is  a 
perfect  fac  simile  of  Hercules,  as  he  stood  engraved  with  his  club, 
as  we  remember  him  in  Bell  or  Tooke's  Pantheon ! 

"The  ore  deposited  on  the  patio,  another  set  of  laborers  engage 
in  separating  the  large  lumps  and  reducing  them  to  the  size  of 
common  paving  stones,  which  are  placed  by  themselves.  The 
smaller  pieces  are  put  in  a  separate  pile,  while  the  earth  (tierra)  is 
sifted  through  coarse  sieves  for  the  purpose  of  being  made  into 
adobes.  There  is  also  a  blacksmith's  shop  for  making  and  repair- 
ing implements.  The  miner  is  not  paid  by  the  day,  but  receives 
pay  for  the  ore  he  extracts.  They  usually  work  in  parties  of  from 


QUICKSILVER   MINES.  197 

two  to  ten  ;  half  the  number  work  during  the  day,  the  other  half 
by  night,  and  in  this  manner  serve  as  checks  upon  each  other. 
Should  a  drone  get  into  the  number,  complaint  is  made  to  the 
engineer,  who  has  to  settle  such  matters,  which  he  generally  does 
by  placing  him  with  a  set  nearer  his  capacity,  or  sometimes  by  a 
discharge.  The  price  of  the  ore  is  settled  by  agreement  for  each 
week.  Should  the  passage  be  more  than  commonly  laborious, 
they  do  not  earn  much ;  or  if,  on  the  contrary,  it  proves  to  be  easy 
and  of  great  richness,  the  gain  is  theirs ;  it  being  not  infrequent 
for  them  to  make  from  thirty  to  forty  dollars  a  week  a-piece,  and 
seldom  less  than  fifteen.  In  those  parts  of  the  mine  where  the 
ore  is  worthless,  but  still  has  to  be  extracted  in  order  to  reach 
that  which  will  pay,  or  to  promote  ventilation,  they  are  paid  by 
the  square  vara,*  at  a  stipulated  price.  They  do  nothing  with 
getting  the  ore  to  the  patio  ;  this  is  done  by  the  tenateros  at  the 
company's  expense,  as  is  also  the  separating,  sifting,  and  weighing. 
Each  party  have  their  ore  kept  separate  ;  it  is  weighed  twice  a 
week  and  an  account  taken.  They  select  one  of  their  party  who 
receives  the  pay  and  divides  it  among  his  fellows. 

"  The  tenateros  receive  three  dollars  per  diem ;  the  sifters  and 
weighers,  two  dollars  and  a  half;  blacksmiths  and  bricklayers, 
five  and  six ;  while  carpenters  are  paid  the  city  price  of  eight 
dollars  a  day.  These  wages  seem  to  be  very  just  and  liberal,  yet, 
such  is  their  improvidence,  that  no  matter  how  much  they  earn, 
the  miners  are  not  one  peso  better  off  at  the  end  of  the  month 
than  they  were  at  its  beginning.  No  provision  being  made  for 
sickness  or  age,  when  that  time  comes,  as  come  it  will,  there  is 
nothing  for  them  to  do  but,  like  some  worn-out  old  charger,  lie 
down  and  die.  This  has  reference  exclusively  to  the  Mexicans ; 
and  it  is  a  pity  that  a  Savings  Bank  could  not  be  established,  and 
made  popular  among  them.  They  number  between  two  and 
three  hundred  in  all ;  but  they  are,  perhaps,  the  most  impractic- 
able people  in  the  world,  going  on  as  their  fathers  did  before  them, 
firmly  believing  in  the  axiom,  that  '  sufficient  unto  the  day  is  the 
evil  thereof.' " 

*  A  vara  is  thirty-three  and  one-third  inches. 


198  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

For  some  time  this  mine  was  closed  by  an  injunction  from  the 
United  States  Court,  but  the  difficulties  being  adjusted,  it  is  now 
being  worked  with  great  success. 

THE    HENRIQTJITA    QUICKSILVER    MINE, 

Is  the  name  of  a  newly  opened  quicksilver  mine,  situated  in  a 
beautiful  and  romantic  valley  on  Guadalupe  Creek,  at  the  ex- 
treme western  point  of  the  same  range  of  hills  as  that  of  New 
Almaden,  and  about  four  and  a  half  miles  from  it.  This  mine 
was  discovered  in  1847,  but  was  not  attempted  to  be  worked 
till  1850,  when  a  company  was  formed  and  operations  com- 
menced ;  but,  owing  to  the  high  price  of  labor  and  supplies,  and 
the  company  running  short  of  funds,  after  a  few  months,  were 
suspended.  In  1855,  a  new  company  was  formed  and  incorporated 
by  charter,  from  the  legislature  of  Maryland,  under  the  title  of 
the  "  Santa  Clara  Mining  Association,  of  Baltimore,"  with  a  suffi- 
cient working  capital  to  open  the  mine,  erect  the  necessary 
smelting  works,  and  carry  them  on. 

"  Yeins  of  quicksilver,"  writes  a  friend,  "  were  long  since  known 
to  exist  in  these  hills,  but,  owing  to  the  difficulty  of  finding 
sufficient  quantities  of  ore  to  render  mining  remunerative,  nothing 
of  importance  was  attempted.  In  November,  1858,  Mr.  Laurencel 
employed  a  party  of  Irish  and  Mexican  miners  to  prospect  it 
more  thoroughly,  and  several  places  were  found  to  be  of  good 
promise,  and  opened.  One  was  called  the  Providentia  Mine, 
another  was  placed  under  the  protection  of  Saint  Patrick,  and  at 
length,  in  January,  1859,  the  present  Henriquita  mine  was  found 
and  immediately  opened.  During  the  winter  and  spring  quite 
a  limited  number  of  men  carried  on  the  work,  but  the  labors  of 
these  few  were  sufficient  to  prove  that  there  existed  a  large  de- 
posit. In  the  beginning  of  June  the  work  was  advanced  upon 
a  larger  scale,  and  preparations  were  made  to  put  up  the  proper 
machinery  for  reducing  the  ore.  Every  thing  was  done  with  dis- 
patch, and  on  the  spot  where  stood  a  forest  in  June,  we  saw  now 
an  establishment  so  far  advanced  as  to  promise  to  go  into  opera- 


QUICKSILVER   MINES.  199 

tion,  producing  quicksilver,  early  in  September ;  good  proof  of 
the  energy  and  activity  of  our  California  miners. 

"The  system  adopted  for  the  reduction  of  ores  is,  I  under- 
stand, the  same  that  was  employed  by  Dr.  Ure,  many  years 
since,  at  the  mines  of  Obermoschel,  in  the  Bavarian  Rhein 
Kreis,  and  which  has  proved  to  be  much  superior  to  the  systems 
in  practice  at  the  Almaden  mine  in  Spain,  and  the  Idria  mine  of 
Austria. 

"What  the  production  of  this  mine  will  be,  is  impossible  to 
foresee ;  but  quite  a  little  mountain  of  ore,  already  taken  out, 
and  what  we  saw  in  our  descent  into  the  mine,  looks  well  for  the 
future  prospect.  A  large  number  of  Mexican  miners  were  at 
work,  and  as  we  passed  their  different  parties,  I  broke  from  the 
rocky  walls  a  number  of  pieces,  which,  on  coming  to  the  light  of 
day,  proved  to  be  rich  ore. 

"  The  location  of  the  Henriquita  mine  is  one  of  considerable 
beauty.  A  picturesque  valley  below,  with  the  winding  stream 
of  the  Capitancillos,  and  pleasant  groves  of  oaks  and  sycamores, 
looks  up  on  one  hand  to  the  hill  where  the  mine  is  perched, 
some  three  hundred  and  forty  or  fifty  feet  above,  and  on  the  other 
to  the  rugged  mountain,  rising  to  the  height  of  between  three  and 
four  thousand  feet.  The  mine  employs  about  one  hundred 
laborers  of  all  classes ;  the  families  added  would  make  a  total 
population  already  of  about  four  hundred  persons.  A  little 
village  has  sprung  up  near  the  works,  containing  many  neat 
cottages,  a  hotel,  and  several  stores.  Two  lines  of  stages  run 
daily  between  the  mine  and  the  city  of  San  Jose. 

"  While  here  I  visited  also  another  spot  of  considerable  interest 
— a  gigantic  oak,  standing  upon  a  prominent  spur  of  the  moun- 
tains on  the  south.  It  measures  some  thirty-six  feet  in  circum- 
ference, and  is,  I  doubt  not,  the  largest  of  its  family  in  California. 
From  its  commanding  position  and  size,  it  is  visible  at  a  great 
distance,  still  towering  high,  when  all  the  trees  around  it  are 
dwarfed  into  the  appearance  of  mere  underbrush. 

"  In  leaving  the  Henriquita  mine,  I  was  more  than  ever  reminded 
of  the  immense  mineral  resources  of  our  State,  and  of  the  industry 


200  SCENES. IN    CALIFORNIA. 

of  our  people.  Tlie  works  of  years  in  older  countries,  were  here 
the  labor  of  a  few  short  months  only. 

'  "  The  county  of  Santa  Clara  will  find  in  this  mine  a  new  source 
of  wealth,  and  must  rejoice  at  the  diligent  prosecution  of  an  enter- 
prise so  important.  As  an  old  miner,  I  was  gratified  at  what  I 
saw.  What  the  California  miner  needs  is  cheap  quicksilver ;  but, 
as  long  as  its  supply  is  limited,  it  is  kept  up  at  exorbitant  prices. 
With  an  increased  production  and  a  healthy  competition,  we  may 
expect 'soon  to  see  it  at  such  a  price  as  will  render  it  hereafter  a 
small  item  only  in  the  working  of  the  quartz  mines,  so  important 
a  source  of  wealth  and  prosperity  to  California. 

DEDICATORY    CEREMONY    OF   BLESSING    THE    MINE. 

"The  interesting  dedicatory  ceremonial  of  Blessing  the  Mine  is  a 
custom  of  long  standing  in  many  Catholic  countries,  where  mining 
is  carried  on,  especially  among  those  people  who  speak  the  Spanish 
language.  Without  it,  workmen  would  feel  a  religious  dread,  and 
consequently  a  timid  reluctance  to  enter  upon  their  daily  labors, 
lest  some  accidental  mishap  should  overtake  them  from  such  an 
omission.  After  this  has  been  duly  performed,  great  care  is  taken 
to  erect  a  shrine,  be  it  ever  so  rude,  at  some  convenient  point 
within  the  mine,  to  some  favorite  tutelary  saint  or  protectress, 
whose  benediction  they  evoke.  Before  this  shrine,  each  workman 
devoutly  kneels,  crosses  himself,  and  repeats  his  Ave  Maria,  or 
Paternoster,  prior  to  entering  upon  the  duties  and  engagements 
of  the  day.  At  this  spot,  candles  are  kept  burning,  both  by  day 
and  night,  and  the  place  is  one  of  sacred  awe  to  all  good  Catholics. 
The  blessing  and  dedication  of  a  mine  is,  consequently,  an  era  of 
importance,  and  one  not  to  be  lightly  passed  over,  or  indifferently 
celebrated. 

"  On  the  morning  of  the  day  set  apart  for  this  ceremony,  at  the 
Henriquita  or  San  Antonio  quicksilver  mine,  the  Mexican  and 
Chilian  senors  and  senoras  began  to  flock  into  the  little  village  at 
the  foot  of  the  canon,  from  all  the  surrounding  country,  in  antici- 
pation of  a  general  holiday,  at  an  early  hour. 

"  Of  course,  at  such  a  time,  the  proprietor  sends  out  invitations 


QUICKSILVER  JVIINES. 


201 


to  those  guests  he  is  particularly  desirous  should  be  present  to  do 


honor  to  the  event ;   but  no   such  form  is  needed   among  the 


workmen  and  their  friends  or  acquaintances,  as  they  understand 
that  the  ceremony  itself  is  a  general  invitation  to  'all,  and  they 
avail  themselves  of  it  accordingly. 

"  Arriving  in  procession  at  the  entrance  to  the  mine,  Father 
Goetz,  the   Catholic   curate*. of  San  Jose,  performed   mass,  and 


THE   HENRIQU1TA   QUICKSILVER   MINE,    ON   THE   MORNING   OF   DEDICATION. 

formally  blessed  the  mine,  and  all  persons  present,  and  all  those 
who  might  work  in  it ;  during  which  service  a  band  of  musicians 
was  playing  a  number  of  airs.  At  the  close,  fire-crackers  and  the 
boom  of  a  gun  cut  in  the  ground,  announced  the  conclusion  of  the 
ceremony  on  the  outside ;  when  they  all  repaired  to  the  inside, 
where  the  Father  proceeded  to  sprinkle  holy  water,  and  to  bless  it. 
"  These  duly  performed,  they  repaired  to  the  village,  near  which 
is  the  beautiful  residence  of  Mr.  Laurencel,  its  proprietor,  where, 
in  a  lovely  grove  of  sycamores,  several  tables  were  erected  and 
bounteously  covered  with  good  things  for  the  inner  man.  Here 
were  feasted  nearly  two  hundred  guests,  of  both  sexes,  with  choice 


202  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

viands,  in  magnificent  profusion,  while  native  wines,  and  other 
light  potables,  flowed  in  abundance.  A  large  number  of  specially 
invited  guests  were  at  the  same  time  hospitably  and  courteously 
entertained  within  the  house  by  Mr.  Laurencel,  his  lady,  and  her 
household.  After  dinner,  there  was  music  and  dancing  upon  the 
green,  exhibitions  of  skilful  horsemanship,  and  a  variety  of  amuse- 
ments, which  were  participated  in  by  the  assembled  company 
with  the  utmost  zest,  and  were  kept  up,  we  understand,  until  a 
late  hour.  The  day  chosen  for  this  festival  was  the  day  of  San 
Antonio,  the  patron  saint  of  the  mine,  and  the  birthday  of  the 
little  Henriquita,  Mr.  Laurencel's  daughter,  the  more  immediate 
patroness  of  the  same." 


VIEW    OF    MOUNT    SHASTA,    THIRTY    MILES    DISTANT. 


CHAPTER    VII. 

MOUNT  SHASTA. 

THIS  isolated  and  lofty  volcanic  mountain  is  located  in  latitude 
41°  30',  and  is  the  head  and  main  source  of  the  Sacramento, 
Shasta,  and  other  streams.  For  many  years  it  was  considered  the 
highest  in  California,  and  was  estimated  at  18,000  feet ;  more  re- 
cent measurements,  however,  make  it  only  about  13,000  feet. 
Being  alone,  and  unconnected  with  any  great  mountain  chains  of 
the  State,  it  seems  to  be  the  culminating  crest  or  starting  point  of 
an  independent  range. 

Covered  with  snow  at  all  seasons  ot  the  year — the  only  one  in 
the  State  that  can  be  so  considered — it  is  one  of  those  glorious  and 


204  SCENES    IN    CALIFOKNIA. 

awe-inspiring  scenes  which  greet  the  traveller's  eye,  and  fill  his 
mind  with  wondering  admiration,  as  he  journejs  among  the  bold 
and  beautiful  mountains  of  our  own  California.  One  almost 
washes  to  kneel  in  worship  as  he  gazes  at  the  magnificent,  snow- 
covered  head  and  pine-girded  base  of  this  "  monarch  of  moun- 
tains ;"  and  even  as  you  ascend  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento, 
Mount  Shasta  appears  to  you  like  a  huge  mountain  of  snow  just 
beyond  the  purple  hills  of  the  horizon ;  and  is  a  constant  land: 
mark  upon  which  to  look,  and  which  one  unconsciously  feels  him- 
self constrained  to  notice,  as  something  even  more  remarkable 
and  inviting  than  the  green  and  flower-covered  valley  beside  him. 

ASCENT   OF   MOUNT   SHASTA   ALONE. 

As  we  are  favored  with  the  following  graphic  sketch  of  an  ascent 
— alone — by  Israel  S.  Diehl,  we  shall  allow  him,  without  comment, 
to  relate  his  interesting  narrative : 

"  The  morning  of  the  ninth  of  October,  1855,  opened  beautiful 
and  bright ;  the  earth  had  been  cooled  by  refreshing  showers 
which  had  copiously  fallen  during  the  night,  as  I  took  up  my  line 
of  march  from  Yreka  to  Mount  Shasta,  to  make  its  ascent,  if  pos- 
sible. Notwithstanding  the  extensive  arrangements  by  way  of 
talk  &nd  promises,  that  were  made  by  the  company  contemplating 
the  same  visit  (alas! for  California  pleasure  parties),  when  the 
eventful  day  came,  I  was  reluctantly  compelled  to  start  on  my 
journey  alone,  dependent  upon  circumstances  for  the  social  pleas- 
ures that  add  so  much  to  such  a  romantic  trip.  No  equipped 
and  noted  travellers,  officers,  literati,  or  blooming  lively  belles, 
whose  merry,  joyful  laugh  and  bright  countenances  could  add  so 
much  of  interest,  were  my  attendants ;  and  thus  '  solitary  and 
alone,'  and  somewhat  fearful  because  of  the  stupendous  and  un- 
known undertaking,  by  any  single  traveller,  I  slowly,  yet  deter- 
minedly, set  out  upon  my  journey. 

"  From  the  western  side  of  Shasta  Valley,  Mount  Shasta  was  in 
full  view  before  me,  in  all  its  beauty  and  glory,  as  it  reared  its 
majestic  head  some  seventeen  thousand  feet  into  the  heavens, 
while  its  sides  were  covered  with  the  deep-driven  snow  of  ages, 


MOUNT    SHASTA.  205 

adding  so  much  antiquity  to  the  inspiring  awe,  as  if  to  say,  '  I  am 
the  mighty  monarch  and  sentinel  of  this  western  coast,'  and 
almost  steadily  did  my  unweary,  wondering  eyes  gaze  admiringly 
upon  the  scene  before  me — hundreds  of  peaked  little  hillocks 
dotted  the  Shasta  Valley  for  twenty-five  miles  around,  like  so 
many  attendants  (evidently  all  lesser  volcanic  formations),  while 
the  Shasta  Eiver,  and  other  smaller  streams,  clear  as  crystal,  and 
icy  cold,  sprang  from  its  side. 

"  For  a  day  and  a  half  did  I  ride  steadily  on  and  around  it,  to 
make  its  ascent ;  all  the  time  with  the  mountain  in  full  view,  and 
apparently  but  a  little  way  off,  deceiving  even  the  best  eye  on  cal- 
culation. 

"  For  two  nights,  ere  my  ascent,  did  I  watch  the  setting  sun, 
with  its  purple  rays  lingering  and  playing  for  twenty  or  thirty 
minutes  around  its  brow,  when,  to  all  other  mountains,  the  sun 
had  set.  That  scene  was  beautiful  beyond  description. 

"  By  the  noon  of  the  second  day,  I  had  rounded  the  Mount  to 
its  south  side,  and  fed  my  weary  horse  arid  self  at  the  beautiful 
Strawberry  Valley  Ranche,  or  Gordon's,  after  which,  with  indefinite 
and  unsatisfactory  directions,  I  bade  adieu  to  every  hope  of  seeing 
another  person  ere  my  fate  became  decided.  Fearful  accounts 
and  warnings  were  given  of  grizzlies,  California  lions,  avalanches, 
falling  rocks  and  stones,  with  deep  canon  crevices,  by  and  in 
which  I  might  perish,  and  have  no  burial  or  resurrection  until  the 
'  Resurrection  Morn  ;'  but,  unwilling  to  give  up,  and  trusting  in 
God,  with  a  good  horse,  and  a  bag  of  provisions,  I  commenced 
the  ascent. 

u  For  twelve  or  fifteen  miles,  I  followed  a  blind  snow  trail  through 
bushes  of  manzanita,  and  other  obstacles,  which  almost  threw  me 
from  my  horse ;  and  would  surely  have  torn  my  garments  had  I 
not  been  equipped  with  a  good  new  suit  of  buckskin.  After  an 
arduous  journey,  I  reached  the  upper  edge  of  the  belt  of  trees,  and 
of  the  horse  trail,  but  not  until  the  sun  had  set.  Night  came  on, 
rendering  it  too  dark  to  find  water  for  myself  and  animal  until  ten 
o'clock  at  night. 

"  After  much  difficulty,  a  fire  was  kindled,  (as  the  last  matches 


206  SCENES   IN    CALIFORNIA. 

were  being  used)  to  keep  off  the  grizzlies  and  lions,  but,  unfor- 
tunately, from  the  scarcity  of  trees  and  the  amount  of  dead  wood 
lying  around,  I  set  fire  to  all  about  me.  This  drove  me  out,  and 
excluded  me  altogether :  so,  making  a  shelter  of  my  saddle  and 
mochila,  and  wrapping  myself  in  my  saddle-blanket,  I  crept  un- 
derneath them,  covering  my  head  and  feet,  saying,  "  Mr.  Grizzly, 
you  must  take  saddle  and  all,  or  none."  Between  shivering 
with  cold,  dozing,  fearing,  and  dreaming,  I  awoke,  and  awaited 
the  dawn  of  day.  At  last  it  came — gladly  to  me — when,  after 
feeding  my  horse  and  bidding  him  adieu,  I  commenced  the  as- 
cent. 

"  On  the  east  side  of  the  west  spur,  and  the  south  side  of  the 
mountain,  there  were  vast  quantities  of  clink  and  volcanic  stones, 
and  for  four  weary  hours  I  never  set  my  foot  off  broken  stone, 
but  up,  up,  up,  over  rocks  and  stones,  till  I  reached  the  base  of  an 
almost  perpendicular  ledge  of  rocks,  the  so-called  Red  Bluffs, 
which  I  found  to  be  indurated  clay,  colored  by  the  peroxyd  of 
iron.  Through  a  little  ravine  I  struggled  on,  on,  climbing  for  one 
more  painful  hour,  while  large  masses  of  rock,  becoming  loosened, 
went  bounding  to  the  awful  abyss  below. 

"  After  reaching  what  I  thought  the  desired  summit,  imagine 
my  surprise  to  look  over  fields  of  lava,  scoria,  snow,  and  fearful 
glaciers.  I  now  had  to  cross  ravines  or  fissures,  from  fifty  to 
one  hundred  feet  deep,  and  from  one  hundred  to  three  hundred 
feet  wide,  and  worn  through  a  solid  mass  of  conglomerates,  and 
sometimes  half  filled  with  snow  and  ice,  the  ice  lying  in  perfect 
ridges,  resembling  the  waves  on  the  ocean,  and  were  both  sharp  and 
dangerous  to  cross.  I  slipped  and  fell  several  times,  once  coming 
near  being  dashed  thousands  of  feet  below.  After  ascending  for 
another  hour,  among  this  strangely  mingled  mass,  hoping  again 
to  have  reached  the  long  desired  summit,  I  was  both  disappointed 
and  pleased  to  see  the  table-land  of  snow  from  one-fourth  to  one- 
half  mile  in  diameter,  where  it  lay  from  one  hundred  to  probably 
one  thousand  and  more  feet  deep,  as  I  could  look  down  into  fis- 
sures where  it  had  sagged  apart,  for  a  fearful  depth,  and  from  this 
field,  a  few  hundred  feet  from  the  summit,  the  Sacramento  River 


MOUNT    SHASTA.  207 

takes  its  rise ;  running  through  the  deep  gorges,  sometimes  on  top, 
then  hidden,  then  appearing  at  the  summit  of  hills,  then  concealed 
for  miles,  it  breaks  forth  in  magnificent  springs  and  miniature 
rivers,  with  sulphur  and  soda  springs  intermixed. 

"  After  crossing  the  field  of  ice  with  great  difficulty,  on  account 
of  the  sun  melting  the  snow  from  the  east  and  south,  while  the 
wind  and  cold  froze  it  from  the  west  and  north,  thus  rendering  it 
dangerous,  I  reached  another  perfect  mountain  of  loose  and  coarse 
lava,  ashes,  and  other  volcanic  matter,  through  which  I  waded, 
although  a  foot  in  depth,  for  some  distance ;  and  as  I  ascended,  I 
caught  a  full  and  first  view  of  the  actual  summit,  which  I  imagine 
is  not  seen  from  below,  as  it  is  a  perfectly  bare  crag  or  comb  of 
rocks,  while  the  sides  and  top  around  are  so  covered  as  to  hide  the 
real  summit.  Across  another  field  of  snow,  and  I  was  evidently 
upon  the  original  and  main  crater,  a  concavity  covering  several 
acres,  almost  hemmed  in  by  a  considerable  rim  of  rocks,  and  here  I 
came  upon  the  long  sought  hot  and  sulphur  springs ;  and  here, 
free  from  wind  and  snow,  finding  it  warm  and  comfortable  after 
being  nearly  benumbed  with  cold,  I  warmed,  and  took  a  hasty 
meal ;  and  in  my  haste  to  warm  my  fingers,  nearly  lost  them  by 
awfully  scalding  them. 

"  I  spent  nearly  an  hour  here,  contemplating  and  watching  this 
wonderful  view.  A  hundred  little  boiling  springs  were  gurgling 
and  bubbling  up  through  a  bed  of  sulphur,  and  emitting  steam 
enough  to  drive  a  small  factory  (if  well  applied),  while  all  around 
lay  the  everlasting  snow. 

"  After  resting,  I  made  the  final  summit,  a  few  hundred  feet 
above,  composed  of  a  perfect  edge  or  comb  of  rocks,  running 
nearly  north  and  south,  and  from  this  summit,  perhaps  the 
highest,  variously  estimated  at  from  sixteen  thousand  five  hun- 
dred, to  seventeen  thousand  five  hundred  feet,  and  decidedly  the 
most  magnificent  of  our  Union,  if  not  of  the  continent,  I  could 
look  around  and  see  '  all  the  kingdoms  of  this  lower  world,'  [Did 
you  tempt  any  one,  Mr.  Diehl  ?] 

"  Looking  to  the  westward,  far  beyond  the  Scott,  Trinity,  Siski- 
you,  and  Coast  Range  of  mountains,  I  imagined  I  saw  the  proud 


208  SCENES    IN    CALIFOKNIA. 

Pacific.  Northward,  looking  far  over  into  Oregon,  one  could  see 
her  peaks,  her  vallies,  and  lakes,  to  the  Dalles,  and  what  I  took  to 
be  Mount  Hood.  East,  far  over  the  Sierras  into  Utah,  and  the 
deserts,  while  beautiful  lakes  lay  like  bright  meadows,  far  in  the 
distance.  South,  I  could  trace  the  Sacramento  and  Pitt  Rivers, 
far  below  Shasta,  where  they  were  lost  in  the  smoke  and  haze,  but 
on  the  south-west  I  could  clearly  see  Mount  Linn,  Mount  St.  John, 
and  Ripley,  and  above  the  haze,  could  distinctly  see  the  Marys- 
ville  Buttes,  if  not  the  top  of  Mount  Diablo  (as  I  have  clearly  seen 
Mount  Shasta  from  the  summit  of  Mount  Diablo).  South-east,  I 
could  trail  the  Sierras  by  the  Lassen,  Spanish,  Pilot,  Seventy-six, 
Downieville,  and  other  peaks,  to  the  range  below  Lake  Bigler,  or 
to  Carson  Yalley. 

"  I  contemplated  the  unsurpassed  scenery  presented  to  my  eye, 
for  hours.  The  day  was  clear  and  beautiful,  after  our  first  October 
rains,  while  the  scenery  was  delightful  beyond  description.  And 
upon  that  peak  I  planted  the  temperance  banner,  side  by  side 
with  the  American  flag  (placed  there  in  1852,  by  Captain  Prince), 
deposited  some  California  papers  and  documents  in  the  rocks,  for 
safe  keeping,  as  the  papers  carried  up  in  1852  were  unharmed, 
and  fresh  as  ever.  Then,  with  a  great  reluctance,  notwithstanding 
the  wind,  cold,  loneliness,  and  coming  night,  I  was  compelled  to 
beat  a  descent. 

"  The  sun  was  fast  declining.  My  watch  told  three  p.  M.,  when 
I  collected  my  minerals,  sulphurs,  and  all  objects  of  interest,  for  a 
future  and  fuller  description,  and  bidding  adieu  to  the  magnificent 
sights,  with  a  promise  of  a  return  some  day,  I  commenced  the 
descent,  and  in  three  hours'  running,  jumping,  tumbling,  sliding 
on  the  snow,  from  one-fourth  to  one-half  a  mile  at  a  time,  in  a  few 
moments — having  a  glorious  time,  easier  by  far,  and  fuller  of  enjoy- 
ment than  the  ascent — I  found  my  horse,  mounted,  and  hastened 
away ;  and  after  a  concatenation  of  circumstances,  lost  and  bewil- 
dered, at  twelve  at  night,  dismounted,  unsaddled  and  loosed  my 
horse ;  weary  and  exhausted,  nature  gave  way,  sleep  conquered, 
and  until  dawn  of  day,  I  knew  no  trouble  save  the  piercing  cold, 
and  woke  to  find  my  trusty  horse  missing,  giving  me  a  half  day's 


MOUNT    SHASTA.  209 

hunt  to  recapture  him,  when,  by  perils  by  river,  land,  and  Indians, 
I  followed  the  Sacramento  down  one  hundred  miles  to1  Shasta,  to 
spend  the  Sabbath,  after  six  days'  labor — much  better  and  hap- 
pier for  my  ascent  of  Mount  Shasta." 

14 


210 


SCENES    IN    CALIFOKNIA. 


THE   SOUTH   FARALLONE   ISLAND,    FROM   THE   BIG   ROOKERY,    LOOKING   EAST. 

CHAPTER    VIII. 
THE  FARALLONE  ISLANDS. 

THIS  is  the  name  of  a  small  group  of  rocky  islands,  lying  in  the 
Pacific  Ocean,  about  twenty-seven  miles  west  of  the  Golden  Gate, 
and  thirty-five  miles  from  San  Francisco.  These  islands  have 
become  of  some  importance,  and  of  considerable  interest,  on 
account  of  the  vast  quantity  of  eggs  that  are  there  annually 
gathered,  for  the  California  market ;  these  eggs  having  become 


THE   FARALLONE    ISLANDS. 

an  almost  indispensable  article  of  spring  and  summer  consumption, 
to  many  persons. 

By  the  courtesy  of  the  Farallone  Egg  Company,  through  their 
President,  Captain  Richardson,  the  schooner  Louise,  Captain 
Harlow,  was  placed  at  our  service,  for  the  purpose  of  visiting 
them ;  and,  in  company  with  a  small  party  of  friends,  we  were 
soon  upon  the  deep  green  brine,  ploughing  our  way  to  the  "  Isles 
of  the  Ocean." 

Bright  and  beautiful  slept  the  morning,  as  a  light  breeze, 
blowing  gently  from  the  mountains,  filled  our  sails,  and  sped  us  on 
our  way  through 

THE    GOLDEN    GATE. 

There  are  probably  but  few  persons,  comparatively,  who  have 
ever  passed  through  this  entrance  to  the  fine  Bay  of  San  Francisco, 
that  are  familiar  with  the  origin  and  meaning  of  the  name,  the 
popular  idea  being  that  its  name  was  suggested  by  the  staple 
mineral  of  the  country — gold.  This  is  incorrect,  as  it  was  called 
"The  Golden  Gate"  before  the  precious  metal  wTas  discovered; 
and  the  first  time  that  it  was  used,  most  probably,  was  in  a  work 
entitled  "  A  Geographical  Eeview  of  California,"  with  a  relative 
map,  published  in  New  York,  in  the  month  of  February,  1848,  by 
Colonel  J.  C.  Fremont ;  and  as  gold  was  discovered  on  the  19th 
of  January  preceding,  in  those  days  it  would  have  been  next  to 
impossible  for  the  news  to  have  reached  the  office  of  publication 
of  that  work,  in  time  for  the  name  to  be  given,  from  such  a  cause. 

The  real  origin  of  the  name  was  from  the  excessively  fertile 
lands  of  the  interior — especially  of  those  adjacent  to  the  Bay  of 
San  Francisco.  There  may  have  been  some  "  Spiritual  Telegrams" 
sent  from  California  (!)  to  the  parent  of  the  name,  telling  him  of 
the  glorious  dawn  of  a  Golden  Day  that  had  broke  upon  the  world 
at  Slitter's  Mill,  Coloma,  and  that  such  a  name  would  be  the 
magic  charm  to  millions  of  men  and  women  in  every  quarter  of 
the  world,  in  the  Golden  Age  about  to  be  inaugurated.  We  do 
not  say  that  it  was  so.  We  do  not  wish  the  reader  to  beliere  it, 
as  our  opinion,  that  it  was  thus  originated ;  but  in  this  age  of 


212 


SCENES   IN    CALIFORNIA. 


spiritual  darkness — we  allude  to  the  limited  knowledge  of  mental 
phenomena — we  start  the  supposition,  in  hope  that  it  may  stir  up 
the  spirit  of  inquiry.  This  one  thing  is  certain,  that  from 
whatever  source  the  name  "Golden  Gate"  may  have  originated, 
it  was  most  happily  suggestive  in  its  character.  Having  dwelt  at 
some  length  upon  the  name,  we  will  now  more  briefly  describe 
the  spot. 

That  it  is  the  gateway  or  entrance  to  the  magnificent  harbor  of 
San  Francisco,  every  one  is  well  aware.  The  centre  of  this 
entrance  is  in  longitude  122°  30'  "W.  from  Greenwich.  On  the 
south  of  the  entrance,  is  Point  Lobos  (Wolves'  Point),  on  the  top 
of  which  is  a  telegraph  station,  from  whence  the  tidings  of  the 
arrival  of  steamers  and  sailing  vessels  are  sent  to  the  city.  On 
the  north  side,  is  Point  Bonita  (Beautiful  Point),  readily  recognized 
by  a  strip  of  land  running  out  toward  the  bar,  on  the  top  of 
which  is  a  light-house,  tlrat  is  seen  far  out  to  sea,  on  a  clear  day, 


CLIPPER  SHIP  CROSSING  Tim  BAR  OUTSIDE  THE  ENTRANCE  OF  TII5  BAY  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


THE   FAKALLONE    ISLANDS.  213 

but  seldom  before  that  on  the  Farallone  Islands,  some  twenty-seven 
miles  west  of  Point  Bonita. 

In  front  of  the  entrance  is  a  low,  circular  sand-bar,  almost  seven 
miles  in  length,  but  on  which  is  sufficient  water,  even  at  low  tide, 
to  admit  of  the  largest  class  of  ships  crossing  it  in  safety — except, 
possibly,  when  the  wind  is  blowing  from  the  north-west,  west,  or 
south-east ;  at  such  a  time,  it  is  scarcely  safe  for  a  very  large 
vessel  to  cross  it  at  low  tide. 

From  Point  Bonita  to  Point  Lobos,  the  distance  is  about  three 
and  a  half  miles ;  and  between  Fort  Point  and  Lime  Point  (just 
opposite  each  other),  the  narrowest  part  of  the  channel,  and  "  The 
Golden  Gate"  proper,  it  is  one  thousand  .seven  hundred, and 
seventy-seven  yards.  Here  the  tide  ebbs  and  flows  at  the  rate1  of 
about  six  knots  an  hour. 

CROSSING   THE   BAR. 

To  the  dwellers  of.  a  seaport  city,  there  is  music  in  the  ever 
restless  waves,  as  they  murmur  and  break  upon  the  shore ;  but  to 
sail  upon  the  broad,  heaving  bosom  of  the  ocean,  gives  an  impres- 
sion of  profoundness  and  majesty,  that,  by  contrast,  becomes  a 
source  of  peaceful  pleasure ;  as  change  becomes  rest  to  the  weary. 
There  is  a  vastness.  around,  above,  beneath  you,  as  wrave  after 
wave,  and  swell  after  swell,  lifts  your  tiny  vessel  upon  its  seething 
surface,  as  though  it  were  a  feather — a  floating  atom  upon  the 
broad  expanse  of  waters.  Then,  to  look  into  its  shadowy  depth, 
and  feel  the  sublime  language  of  the  Psalmist :  "  O  Lord,  how 
manifold  are  thy  works!  in  wisdom  hast  Thou  made  them  all :  the 
earth  is  full  of  thy  riches.  So  is  this  great  and  wide  sea,  wherein 
are  things  creeping  innumerable,  both  small  and  great  beasts. 
These  wait  all  upon  Thee :  that  Thou  mayest  give  them  their  meat 
in  due  season.  Thou  openest  thy  hand,  they  are  filled  with  good. 
Thou  hidest  thy  face,  they  are  troubled."  "  They  that  go  down 
to  the  sea  in  ships,  that  do  business  in  great  waters :  these  see  the 
works  of  the  Lord,  and  his  wonders  in  the  deep.  He  commandeth, 
and  raiseth  the  stormy  wind,  which  lifteth  up  the  waves  thereof. 
He  maketh  the  storm  a  calm,  so  that  the  waves  thereof  are  still." 


214 


SCENES    IN     CALIFORNIA. 


"  Oh,  that  men  would  praise  the  Lord  for  his  goodness,  for  his 
wonderful  works  to  the  children  of  men  !  " 

Object  after  object  became  distant  and  less,  as  we  left  them  far, 
far  behind  us. 

"  Yonder  blows  a  whale  !  "  cries  one. 

"Where?" 

"Just  off  our  larboard  bow." 

"Oh!  I  see  it—  but"— 

"  But  !  what's  the  matter  ?  " 

"  Oh  !  I  feel  so  sea-sick." 

"Well,  never  mind  that;  look  up,  and  don't  think  about  it." 

"  Oh—  I  can't—  I  must"— 

Header,  were  you  ever  sea-sick  ?  If  your  experience  enables 
you  to  answer  in  the  affirmative,  you  will  sympathize  somewhat 
with  the  poor  subject  of  it.  Yonder  may  be  this  beauty,  and  that 


/    /  /  ;      :  i        i 

ENCHANTED  WITH  THE  DELIGHTFUL  PROSPECT  OFF  THE   BAR, 

wonder,  but  a  "  dorSt-c&YQishness "  comes  over  you,  and  if  all  the 
remarkable  scenes  in  creation  were  just  before  you,  "I  don't  care" 


THE   FAKALLONE   ISLANDS. 


215 


is  written  upon  the  face,  as  you  beseechingly  seem  to  say:  "Pray 
don't  trouble  me — my  hands  are  full"  Whales,  sea-gulls,  por- 
poises, and  even  the  white,  foamy  sprayj  that  is  curling  over 
Duxbury  Reef,  are  alike  unheeded. 

"  How  are  you  now  ?"  kindly  asks  our  good-natured  captain, 
of  the  one  and  the  other. 

"  Ah  !  thank  you ;  I  am  better." 

"  Here,  take  a  cup  of  nice  hot  coffee." 

"No;  I  thank  you." 

The  mere  mention  of  any  thing  to  eat  or  drink  is  only  the  signal 
for  a  renewal  of  the  sickness. 

"  Thank  goodness !  I  feel  better,"  says  one,  after  a  long  spell 
of  sickness  and  quiet. 

"  So  do  I,"  says  another ;  and,  just  as  the  "  Farallones"  are  in 
sight,  fortunately,  all  are  better. 


SOUTH-EAST   VIEW   OF   THE   FARALLONE   ISLANDS. 

Now  the  air  is  literally  filled  with  birds — birds  floating  above  us, 
and  birds  all  around  us,  like  bees  that  are  swarming,  we  thought 


216  SCENES    IN   CALIFORNIA. 

the  whole  group  of  islands  must  have  been  deserted,  and  that 
they  had  poured  down  in  myriads,  on  purpose  to  intercept  our 
landing,  or  "bluff  us  off;"  but,  as  the  dark,  weather-beaten  fur- 
rows, and  the  wave-washed  chasms,  and  the  wind-swept  masses 
of  rock,  rose  more  defined  and  distinct  before  us  as  we  approached, 
we  concluded  that  they  must  have  abandoned  the  undertaking — 
for  upon  every  peak  sat  a  bird,  and  in  every  hollow  a  thousand ; 
but,  looking  around  us  again,  the  number,  apparently,  had  in- 
creased rather  than  diminished,  and  the  more  there  seemed  to  be 
upon  the  islands  the  greater  the  increase  round  about  us — so  that 
we  concluded  our  fears  to  be  entirely  unfounded. 

The  anchor  is  dropped  in  a  mass  of  floating  foam,  011  the  south- 
east and  sheltered  side  of  the  islands,  and  in  a  small  boat  we  reach 
the  shore,  thankful,  after  this  short  voyage,  to  feel  our  feet  stand- 
ing firmly  on  terra  firma. 

ARRIVAL    AT   THE   FARALLONE    ISLANDS. 

Looking  at  the  wonders  on  every  side,  we  were  astonished  that 
we  had  heard  so  little  about  them,  and  that  a  group  of  islands 
like  these  should  lie  within  a  few  hours'  sail  of  San  Francisco,  yet 
not  be  the  resort  of  nearly  every  seeker  of  pleasure,  and  every 
lover  of  the  wonderful. 

It  is  like  one  vast  menagerie.  Upon  the  rocks  adjacent  to  the 
sea  repose  in  easy  indifference,  thousands — yes,  thousands — of  sea 
lions  (one  species  of  the  seal),  that  weigh  from  two  to  five  thousand 
pounds  each.  As  these  made  the  loudest  noise,  and  to  us  were 
the  most  curious,  we  paid  them  the  first  visit.  When  we  were 
within  a  few  yards  of  them  the  majority  took  to  the  water,  while 
two  or  three  of  the  oldest  and  largest  remained  upon  the  rock, 
"  standing  guard"  over  the  young  calves,  that  were  either  at  play 
with  each  other,  or  asleep  at  their  side.  As  we  advanced,  these 
masses  of  "blubber"  moved  slowly  and  clumsily  toward  us,  with 
their  mouths  open,  and  showing  two  large  tusks  that  were  stand- 
ing out  from  their  lower  jaw,  by  which  they  gave  us  to  under- 
stand that  we  had  better  not  disturb  the  repose  of  the  juvenile 
"  lions,"  nor  approach  too  near,  or  we  might  receive  more  harm 


THE   FAKALLONE   ISLANDS. 


217 


than  we  expected  or  wished.  But  the  moment  we  threw  at  them 
a  stone,  they  would  scamper  off,  and  leave  the  young  lions  to  the 
mercy  of  their  enemies.  We  advanced  and  took  hold  of  one,  to 
try  if  the  sight  of  their  young  being  taken  away  would  tempt  them 


to  come  to  the  rescue ;  but,  although  they  roared  and  kept  swim- 
ming close  to  the  rock,  they  evidently  thought  their  own  safety  of 
the  most  importance.  One  old  warrior,  whose  head  and  front 
bore  scars  of  many  a  hard-fought  battle — for  they  fight  fearfully 
among  themselves — could  not  be  driven  from  the  field,  and  neither 
rocks  nor  shouting  moved  him  in  the  least,  except  to  meet  the 
enemy,  as  he  doubtless  considered  us. 

All  of  these  animals  are  very  jealous  of  their  particular  rock, 
where,  in  the  sun,  they  take  their  siesta,  and  although  we  remained 
upon  some  of  these  spots  for  a  considerable  length  of  time,  while 
their  usual  tenants  were  swimming  in.  the  sea,  and  perhaps  had 


218 


SCENES   IN    CALIFORNIA. 


become  somewhat  uneasy,  they  were  not  allowed  to  land  on  the 
.territory  of  another. 


SEA   LIONS   AND   THEIR   YOUXG. 


They  keep  Tip  an  incessant  short,  moaning  cry,  that  sounds  like 
yoi  hoey,  yoi  hoey,  in  about  the  same  key  as  the  bray  of  a  mule. 

Most  of  these  young  seals  are  of  a  dark  mouse  color,  but  the  old 
ones  are  of  a  light  and  brightish  brown  about  the  head,  and  grad- 
ually become  darker  toward  the  extremities,  which  are  about  the 
same  color  as  the  young  calves.  Most  of  the  male  and  young  fe- 
male seals  leave  these  islands  during  the  months  of  October  or 


THE   FAKALLONE   ISLANDS.  219 

November — and  generally  all  go  at  once — returning  in  April  or 
May  the  following  spring,  while  the  older  females  remain  here 
nearly  alone  throughout  the  winter — a  rather  ungallant  proceed- 
ing on  the  part  of  the  males. 

THE    HAIR    SEAL. 

There  are  several  different  kinds  of  seal  that  pay  a  short  visit 
here  at  different  seasons  of  the  year,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of 
which  is  the  hair  seal  of  the  Pacific  (Phoco  jitbata). 


THE   HAIR   SEAL   OF    THE   PACIFIC.    " 

This  seal,  with  which  the  coast  of  California  abounds,  is  by  no 
means  rare,  as  almost  all  the  coasts  in  high  southern  and  northern 
latitudes  abound  with  it.  uTo  the  Laplander,  it  is  meat,  drink, 
clothing,  etc.  To  the  Indians  of  Behring's  Straits  and  Kamschatka 
it  is  most  valuable ;  in  fact,  they  could  hardly  exist  without  it. 
Far  away  in  those  inhospitable  regions,  where  winter  reigns  three- 
fourths  of  the  year,  no  timber  can  be  obtained  sufficiently  large 
to  build  a  canoe ;  but  with  a  few  seal-skins  and  a  little  whale- 
bone, the  Indian  will  construct  one  of  the  most  perfect  life-boats 
in  the  world.  In  this  he  will  fearlessly  venture  miles  from  land 
to  catch  fish  and  seals,  aye,  and  even  the  whale.  These  canoes 
are  difficult  to  manage  to  those  who  are  unacquainted  with  them. 
It  requires  no  small  degree  of  practice,  even  to  the  Kamschatkan, 
in  a  rough  sea,  to  keep  such  a  boat  alive.  He  is  not  allowed  to 
marry  unless  he  have  the  ability  of  so  making  and  guiding 
them.  Indeed,  his  canoe  is  all  to  him — his  house,  his  clothes,  his 


220  SCENES    IN   CALIFORNIA. 

furniture,  his  food — -for  without  it,his  shores,  prolific  in  fish,  would 
be  useless. 

"Its  countenance  bears  the  impress  of  great  sagacity;  its  full, 
round,  beautiful  eye  indicates  even  an  intelligence  rarely  to  be 
found  in  any  other  inhabitant  of  the  waters.  This  was  remarked 
by  the  ancient  historian,  Pliny.  He  gives  an  amusing  account  of 
one  that  was  easily  taught  to  perform  certain  tricks.  It  would 
sjalute  visitors  freely,  and  would  answer  to  its  name  when  called. 
F.  Cuvier  narrates  of  one  that  he  saw  that  was  made  to  stand 
erect  on  its  tail,  and  hold  a  staff  between  its  flippers'  like  a  senti- 
nel on  duty.  It  would  tumble  heels  over  head  when  desired,  give 
a  flipper  to  be  shaken,  and  present  its  lips  for  its  keeper's  kiss. 

"Captain  Russell,  the  assiduous  traveller  and  explorer  of  the  sea- 
board resources  of  California,  informed  us  that  it  is  most  amusing 
sometimes  to  see  their  contests  with  the  Coast  Indians.  These 
fellows  skulk  behind  .the  rocks  adjacent  to  some  gently-sloping 
sand-banks,  and  when  the  shoal  has  become  dry  by  the  receding 
tide,  they  front  the  body  and  interpose  their  return  to  the  water, 
each  selecting  as  his  prey  the  biggest  and  most  powerful.  Catch- 
ing hold  of  the  tail-flipper,  the  animal  scuffles  along  the  sand, 
dragging  along  after  him  the  Indian,  who,  with  a  tight  grip,  fol- 
lows, until,  by  ploughing  a  deep  furrow  with  his  feet,  leaning 
back,  and  with  all  his  strength  resisting  the  powerful  progress  of 
the  animal,  until  both  come  to  a  dead  stand ;  the  animal's  side- 
flippers  are  then  tied  by  another  party,  and  the  poor  beast  thus 
easily  becomes  his  prey.  He  often,  he  says,  remonstrated  in  vain 
against  their  barbarous  cruelty  of  preparing  them  for  food,  or  for 
blubber.  A  huge  fire  is  made  in  a  large  flat  hole  in  the  ground, 
and  the  poor  beasts  are  hurled  in  and  roasted  alive.  "  We  have 
no  other  way,"  said  they,  "of  singeing  or  scorching  off  the  hair. 
If  they  were  put  in  dead,  we  should  have  to  get  in  the  fire  ourselves 
to  turn  them,  but  being  alive,  they  spare  us  the  trouble,  and  turn 
themselves, when  one  side  is  singed  sufficiently." 

"  The  whole  tribe  possesses  remarkable  peculiarities  of  respiration 
and  circulation  of  blood.  The  interval  between  their  respirations 
is  very  long.  A  full-grown  animal  can  remain  under  water,  with- 


THE   FARALLONE   ISLANDS.  221 

out  requiring  a  fresh  inspiration,  for  upwards  of  half  an  hour.  The y 
can  open  and  close  at  pleasure,  for  these  purposes,  their  valvular  nos- 
trils in  a  surprising  degree,  eating  their  food  all  the  time  underwater 
with  perfect  enjoyment.  Their  breathing  is  remarkably  slow,  and 
very  irregular.  After  opening  the  nostrils  and  making  a  long  ex- 
piration, the  creature  inhales  air  by  a  long  inspiration,  and  just 
before  diving,  closes  its  nostrils  as  tight  as  any  mechanical  valve. 
In  confinement,  they  have  been  observed  to  remain  asleep,  with 
the  head  under  water,  for  an  hour  at  each  time,  without  any  fresh 
inhalation  of  air.  Naturalists  account  for  this  power  by  the  ani- 
mal's possessing  a  great  venous  canal  in  its  liver,  which  assists  it 
in  diving,  so  that  their  respiration  is  somewhat  independent  of  the 
circulation  of  the  blood. 

"One  of  these  animals  was  exhibited  in  Adams'  Museum,  San 
Francisco,  and  was  in  excellent  condition,  exceedingly  tame,  and 
very  submissive  to  its  "keeper.  It  seemed  to  enjoy  the  music, 
appearing  to  listen  to  it  with  some  pleasure. '  This  is  not  to  be 
wondered  at,  as  the  hearing  of  this  class  of  animals  is  very  acute ; 
and  well  attested  instances  are  by  no  means  rare,  of  many,  even 
in  a  wild  state,  being  attracted  by  the  sound  of  a  flute,  or  a  horn; 
rising  up  to  the  surface  to  enjoy  it  the  more,  and  sinking  imme- 
diately the  sounds  are  discontinued.  The  brain  in  the  seal  is  very 
large,  and  its  whiskers  are  connected  with  nerves  of  immense 
size,  serving  almost  every  purpose  of  sensation." 

The  Russians  formerly  visited  these  islands,  for  the  purpose  of 
obtaining  oil  and  skins,  and  several  places  can  be  yet  seen  where 
the  skins  were  stretched  and  dried. 

BIRDS    ON    THE    FARALLONES. 

The  birds  which  are  by  far  the  most  numerous,  and,  on.  account 
of  their  eggs,  the  most  important,  are  the  Murre,  or  Foolish  Guil- 
lemot^ which  are  found  here  in  myriads,  surmounting  every  rocky 
peak,  and  occupying  every  small  and  partially  level  spot  upon  the 
islands.  Here  it  lays  its  egg,  upon  the  bare  rock,  and  never  leaves 
it,  unless  driven  off,  until  it  is  hatched  ;  the  male  taking  its  turn, 
at  incubation,  with  the  female — although  the  latter  is  most  assid- 


222 


SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


THE  MURRE,    OR   FOOLISH   GUILLEMOT. 

uous.  One  reason  why  this  may  be  the  case,  perhaps,  is  from  the 
fact  that  the  gull  is  watching  every  opportunity  to  steal  its  egg 
and  eat  it.  The  "  eggers"  say  that  when  they  are  on  their  way  to 
any  part  of  the  island,  the  gulls  call  to  each  other,  and  hover 
around  until  the  murre  is  disturbed  by  them,  and  before  they  can 
pick  up  the  egg,  the  gull  sweeps  down  upon  it,  and  carries  it  off. 

When  the  young  are  old  enough  to  emigrate,  the  murres  take 
them  away  in  the  night,  lest  the  gulls  should  eat  them ;  and  as 
soon  as  the  young  reach  the  water,  they  swim  at  once.  Some 
idea  may  be  formed  of  the  number  of  these  birds,  by  the  Faral- 
lone  Egg  Company  having,  since  1850,  brought  to  the  San  Fran- 
cisco market  between  three  and  four  millions  of  eggs. 

On  this  coast  these  birds  are  numerous,  in  certain  localities,  from 
Panama  to  the  Russian  possessions.  On  the  Atlantic,  they  are 
found  from  Boston  to  the  coast  of  Labrador ;  differing  but  very 
little  in  color,  shape,  or  size. 


THE    FAKALLONE    ISLANDS. 


223 


THE  MUERE'S  EGG — FULL  SIZE. 

It  is  a  clumsy  bird,  almost  helpless  on  land,  but  is  at  home  on 
the  sea,  and  is  an  excellent  swimmer  and  diver,  and  is  very  strong 
in  the  wings.  Their  eggs  are  unaccountably  large,  for  the  size  of 
the  bird,  and  "  afford  excellent  food,  being  highly  nutritive  and 
palatable — whether  boiled,  roasted,  poached,  or  in  omelets."  "No 
two  eggs  are  in  color  alike. 


THE  TUFTED  PUFFIN. 


224  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

The  bird  of  most  varied  and  beautiful  plumage,  on  the  islands, 
is  the  Mormon  Cirrhatus,  or  Tufted  Puffin  •  and,  although  they 
are  rather  numerous  on  this  coast,  they  are  very  scarce  elsewhere. 

In  addition  to  the  murre,  puffin,  and  gull,  already  mentioned, 
there  are  pigeons,  hawks,  shag,  coots,  etc.,  which  visit  here 
during  the  summer,  but,  with  the  exception  of  the  gull  and 
shag,  do  not  remain  through  the  winter. 

The  horned-billed  guillemot  has  been  seen  and  caught  here, 
but  it  is  exceedingly  rare. 

Now,  with  the  reader's  permission,  we  will  leave  the  birds  and 
animals — at  least  if  we  can — and  take  a  walk  up  to  the  lighthouse, 
at  the  top  of  the  island,  three  hundred  and  fifty-seven  feet  above 
the  sea.  A  good  pathway  has  been  made,  so  that  we  can  ascend 
with  ease.  If  you  find  that  we  have  not  left  the  birds,  nor  the 
birds  left  us,  but  that,  at  every  step  we  take,  we  disturb  some,  and 
pass  others,  and  that  thousands  are  flying  all  around  us,  never 
mind — when  we  reach  the  top  we  shall  forget  them,  at  least  for  a 
few  moments,  to  strain  our  eyes  in  looking  toward  the  horizon, 
and  seeking  to  catch  a  glimpse  of  some  distant  object.  Yonder, 
some  eight  miles  distant,  are  the  "  North  Earallones,"  a  very 
small  group  of  rocks,  and  not  exceeding  three  acres  in  extent — 
but,  like  this,  they  are  covered  with  birds. 

Now  let  us  enter  the  lighthouse,  and,  under  the  guidance  of 
Mr.  Wines,  the  superintendent,  we  shall  find  our  time  well  spent 
in  looking  at  the  best  lighthouse  on  the  Pacific  coast.  Every  thing 
is  bright  and  clean,  its  machinery  in  beautiful  order,  and  working 
as  regular  in  its  movements  as  a  chronometer. 

The  wind  blows  fresh  outside,  and  secretly  you  hope  the  light- 
house will  not  blow  over  before  you  get  out.  Here,  too,  you  can 
see  the  shape  of  the  island  upon  which  you  stand,  mapped  out 
upon  the  sea  below. 

Let  us  descend,  wend  our  way  to  the  "  West  End,"  and  pass 
through  the  living  masses  of  birds,  that  stand,  like  regiments  of 
white-breasted  miniature  soldiers,  on  every  hand — and  it  might 
be  well  to  take  the  precautionary  measure  of  closing  our  ears  to 
the  perpetual  roaring,  and  loud  moaning  of  the  sea  lions,  for  their 


THE    FARALLONE    ISLANDS. 


225 


noise  is  almost  deafening.     A  caravan  of  wild  beasts  is  nothing, 
in  noise,  to  these. 

Let  us  be  careful,  too,  in  every  step  that  we  take,  or  we  shall 
place  our  foot  upon  a  nest  of  young  gulls,  or  break  eggs  by.  the 
dozen,  for  they  are  everywhere  around  us.  "We  scon  reach  the 
side  of  the  "  Jordan,"  as  a  small  inlet  is  called,  and  across  which 
we  can  step  at  low  tide,  but  which  is  thirty  feet  wide  at  high 
water.  To  cross  it,  however,  a  rope  and  pulley  is  your  mode  of 
conveyance ;  so  hold  tight  by  your  hands,  and  you'll  soon  get 
across.  Safely  over,  let  us  make  our  way  for  a  glimpse  of  the 
West  End  View,  looking  East. 


VIEW  FROM  WEST  END,   LOOKING  EAST. 

This  is  a  wild  and  beautiful  scene.  The  sharp-pointed  rocks 
are  standing  boldly  out  against  the  sky,  and  covered  with  birds 
and  sea  lions.  A  heavy  surf  is  rolling  in,  with  thundering 
hoarseness,  and  as  the  wild  waters  break  upon  the  shore,  they 
resemble  the  lowr,  booming  sound  of  distant  thunder ;  while  the 
white  spray  curls  over,  and  falls  with  a  hissing  splash  upon  the 

rocks,  and  then  returns  a^ain  to  its  native  brine ;  while,  swimming 
15 


226  SCENES    IN   CALIFORNIA. 

in  the  boiling  sea,  amid  the  foam  and  rocks,  just  peering  above 
the  water,  are  the  heads  of  scores  of  sea  lions.  Let  iis  watch  them 
for  a  moment.  Here  comes  one  noble  looking  old  fellow,  who 
rises  from  the  water,  and  works  his  way,  slowly  and  clumsily, 
toward  the  young  which  lie  high  and  dry,  sleeping  in  the  sun,  or 
are  engaged  lazily  scratching  themselves  with  their  hind  claws ; 
and,  although  we  are  very  near  them,  they  lie  quite  unconcerned, 
and  innocent  of  danger.  !Nbt  so  the  old  gentleman,  who  has  just 
taken  his  position  before  us,  as  sentry.  Experience  has  doubtless 
taught  him  that  such  looking  animals  as  we  are  behave  no  better 
than  we  should  do,  and  he  knows  it ! 

There  are  water-washed  caves,  and  deep  fissures  between  the 
rocks,  just  at  our  right ;  and  in  the  distance  is  a  large  arch,  not 
less  than  sixty  feet  in  height,  its  top  and  sides  completely  covered 
with  birds.  Through  the  arch,  you  can  see  a  ship,  which  is  just 
passing. 

!N"ow  let  us  go  to  the  "  Big  Rookery,"  lying  011  the  north- west 
side  of  the  island. 

This  locality  derives  its  name  from  the  island  here  forming  a 
hollow,  well  protected  from  the  winds ;  and  being  less  abrupt  than 
other  places,  is  on  that  account  a  favorite  resort  of  myriads  of  sea 
fowl,  who  make  this  their  place  of  abode,  and  where  vast  numbers 
of  young  are  raised.  If -you  walk  among  them,  thousands  im- 
mediately rise,  and  for  a  few  moments  darken  the  air,  as  though 
a  heavy  cloud  had  just  crossed  •  and  obscured  the  sunlight  upon 
your  path.  But  few  persons  who  have  not  seen  them  can  realize 
the  vast  numbers  that  make  this  their  home,  and  which  are  here, 
there,  and  everywhere,  flying,  sitting,  and  even  swimming,  upon 
the  boiling  and  white-topped  surge  among  the  seals. 

Here,  as  elsewhere,  there  are  thousands  of  seals,  some  are  suck- 
ling their  calves,  some  are  lazily  sleeping  in  the  sun,  others  are 
fishing,  some  are  quarrelling,  others  are  disputing  possession,  and 
yonder,  just  before  tis,  two  large  and  fierce  old  fellows  are  engaged 
in  direful  combat  with  each  other — now  the  long  tusks  of  the  one 
are  moving  upward  to  try  to  make  an  entrance  beneath  the  jaw 
of  the  other — now  they  are  below — now  there  is  a  scattering 


THE   FARALLONE    ISLANDS. 


227 


among  the  swimming  group  that  have  merely  been  looking  on  to 
see  the  sport,  for  the  largest  has  just  come  up  among  them,  and 
they  are  afraid  of  him.  Now  appears  his  antagonist,  his  eyes 
rolling  with  maddened  frenzy,  they  again  meet — now  under,  now 
over — fierce  wages  the  war,  hard  goes  the  battle,  but  at  last  the 
owner  of  the  head,  already  covered  with  scales,  has  conquered, 
and  his  discomfitted  enemy  makes  his  way  to  the  nearest  rock,  and 
there  lies  panting  and  bleeding ;  but  he  may  not  rest  here,  for  the 
owner  of  that  claim  is  at  home  and  has  possession,  and  without 
any  sympathy  for  his  suffering  and  unfortunate  brother,  he  orders 
him  off,  although  "only  a  squatter,"  and  he  again  takes  to  the  sea 
in  search  of  other  quarters. 

From  this  point  we  get  an  excellent  view  of  the  lighthouse,  and 
the  residence  of  the  keepers.  Everywhere  there  is  beauty,  wild- 
ness,  sublimity.  Let  us  not  linger  too  long  here,  although  weeks 
could  be  profitably  spent  in  looking  at  the  wonders  around  us,  but 
let  us  take  a  hasty  glance  at  the  View  from  the  North  Landing. 


VIEW  FROM  THE  NORTH  LANDING,   LOOKING  NORTH. 


228  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

Here  there  is  a  fine  estuary,  where,  with  a  little  improvement, 
small  schooners  can  enter  at  any  season  of  the  year,  and  where 
the  oil  and  other  supplies  are  landed  for  the  lighthouse.  Like  the 
other  views,  it  is  singular  and  wild — each  eminence  covered  with 
birds,  each  sea-washed  rock  occupied  by  seals,  and  the  air  almost 
darkened  by  the  sea  gulls  skimming  backward  and  forward,  like 
swallows,  and  by  the  rapid  and  apparently  difficult  flight  of  the 
murres. 

From  this  point  we  can  get  an  excellent  view  of  the  North 
FaralloneS)  that,  in  the  dim  and  shadowy  distance,  are  looming 
up  their  dull  peaks  just  above  the  restless  and  swelling  waves. 
From  the  sugar-loaf  shaped  peak,  and  the  singularly  high  arch, 
and  bold,  rugged  outlines  of  the  other  rocks,  this  view  has  become 
a  favorite  one  with  the  "  eggers." 

Upon  these  islands,  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  acres,  there  is  not 
a  single  tree  or  shrub  to  relieve  the  eye  by  contrast,  or  give 
change  to  the  barrenness  of  the  landscape.  A  few  weeds  and 
sprigs  of  wild  mustard  are  the  only  signs  of  vegetable  life  to  be 
seen  upon  them.  To  those  who  reside  here  it  must  be  monotonous 
and  dull ;  but  to  those  who  visit  it,  there  is  a  variety  of  wild  won- 
ders that  amply  repays  them  for  their  trouble. 

Some  Italian  fishermen  having  supplied  our  cook  with  excellent 
fish,  let  us  hasten  aboard  and  make  sail  for  home. 

Before  saying  "  good-bye"  to  our  kind  entertainers,  and  again 
leaving  them  to  the  solitary  loneliness  of  a  "  life  near  the  sea,"  we 
will  congratulate  them  upon  their  useful  employment,  and  ask 
them  to  remember  the  comforting  joy  they  must  give  to  the  tem- 
pest-tossed mariner,  who  sees,  in  the  "  light  afar,"  the  welcome 
sentinel,  ever  standing  near  the  gate  of  entrance  to  the  long 
wished  and  hoped-for  port,  w^here,  for  a  time,  in  enjoyment  and 
rest,  he  can  recover  from  the  hardships  and  forget  the  perils  of 
the  sea. 

On  our  left,  and  but  a  few  yards  from  shore,  is  an  isle  called 
Seal  Rock,  where  the  sea  lions  have  possession,  and  are 
waving  their  lubberly  bodies  to  and  fro  upon  its  very  summit,  and 
from  whence  the  echoes  of  their  low  howling  moans  are  heard 


THE   FAKALLONE    ISLANDS.  229 

across   the  sea,  long   after  distance  lias  hidden  them   from   our 
sight. 

After  a  pleasant  run  of  five  hours,  without  any  sea-sickness,  we 
are  again  walking  the  streets  of  San  Francisco,  abundantly  satis- 
fied  that  our  trip  was  exceedingly  pleasant  and  instructive. 


SOUTH  VIEW  OF  FORT  POINT  AND  THE  GOLDEN  GATE. 

From  a  Photograph  by  Hamilton  &  Co. 

CHAPTEE  IX. 

IN  AND  AROUND  SAN  FRANCISCO. 

SAN  FRANCISCO,*  approached  from  the  sea  or  from  the  northern 
portion  of  the  bay,  does  not  present  an  attractive  appearance  to 
the  stranger.  At  night,  to  be  sure,  when  the  broken  heights  are 
dotted  with  sparkling  lights,  and  the  mysterious  and  vague  en- 
chantment of  mingled  darkness  and  light  is  cast  over  the  picture, 

*  For  most  of  this  chapter  we  are  indebted  to  the  kindness  of  Noah  Brooks,  Esq., 
of  San  Francisco. 


IN    AND    AROUND    SAN    FRANCISCO.  231 

there  is  something  to  charm  the  eager  tourist  in  the  vagueness 
and  indistinctness  of  the  glimpse,  which  lie  has  of  the  far-famed 
city.  But  hy  day,  when  the  pitiless  sun  pours  its  broad  rays  upon 
the  rough,  sandy  promontory  on  which  San  Francisco  lies  rudely 
scattered,  the  picture  is  unpleasing  and  almost  invariably  disap- 
pointing. The  hills  are  sandy  and  dry,  and  are  dotted  or  covered 
with  houses,  not  always  neat,  and  seldom  elegant.  That  part  of 
the  city  which  is  first  seen  as  one  approaches  it  from  the  Golden 
Gate,  or  from  the  north,  is  ragged  with  straggling  wooden  struc- 
tures, destitute  of  foliage  and  forbidding  in  the  extreme.  It  is 
not  until  one  reaches  the  city  front  and  gains  some  near  views  of 
the  more  tasteful  architecture  of  the  business  part  of  the  city, 
that  the  impression  of  newness  and  ragnedness  is  removed.  Dur- 
ing the  dry  season  the  hills  which  surround  the  bay  are  brown 
and  tawny,  the  sky  is  staring  in  its  utter  blue  cloudlessness,  and 
the  general  aspect  of  the  scene  is  uninviting. 

Closer  acquaintance  with  the  city,  with  its  pleasant  homes,  its 
lovely  gardens,  and  its  really  elegant  private  residences  removes 
much  of  this  unfavorable  first  impression,  but  the  main  facts  of 
its  roughly  repelling  appearance  remain.  As  above  intimated, 
there  are  many  attractive  homes  in  San  Francisco,  and  the  mild- 
ness of  the  climate  is  attested  by  the  perennial  flowering  of  many 
delicate  shrubs  and  plants,  almost  unknown  in  the  eastern  States. 
Geraniums,  fuschias,  heliotropes,  verbenas,  passion-flowers,  jessa- 
mines, roses,  and  a  wealth  of  flowers  which  bloom  only  with  re- 
luctance and  during  a  short  interval  in  most  of  the  older  States, 
are  here  found  in  constant  perfection,  and  the  city  conceals 
among  the  sandy  hills,  which  the  traveller  by  sea  views  disgust- 
fully  from  the  sea,  many  gardens  which  are  emphatically  "  gar- 
dens of  delight," — these  make  San  Francisco  attractive. 

THE    CLIFF    HOUSE    AND    SEAL    ROCKS. 

On  the  seaward  side  of  the  promontory  of  San  Francisco,  at  the 
base  of  a  bold  cliff,  are  the  famous  Seal  Rocks;  as  this  locality  is 
one  of  the  very  first  to  which  the  favored  stranger  is  taken  by 
his  hospitable  friends,  one  may  be  pardoned  for  placing  it  at 


232  SCENES    IX    CALIFOEXIA. 

the  head  of  the  brief  list  of  sights  to  be  seen  in  and  around  San 
Francisco.  There  are  several  roads  leading  to  the  sea  beach,  and 
the  Rocks,  but  the  most  frequented  is  the  turnpike  which  forms 
an  extension  of  Geary  Street,  passing  out  between  Lone  Mountain, 
and  Laurel  Hill  Cemetery.  On  the  right  is  the  cemetery  where 
rest  the  ashes  of  most  of  the  dead  of  San  Francisco,  their  monu- 
ments gleaming  white  in  the  sun.  Conspicuous  among  these  is 
the  tall  obelisk  which  marks  the  grave  of  Broderick  ;  of  Thomas 
Starr  King;  the  monumental  work  erected  at  the  burial-place  of 
Baker — General,  Senator,  and  Orator — is  near  this  point :  besides 
those  of  many  others  whose  life  and  labors  were  a  blessing  to  the 
State.  On  the  left  of  the  road  rises  the  conical  peak  of  Lone 
Mountain,  surmounted  by  a  cross,  which  is  seen  far  out  at  sea ; 
and  scattered  near  the  base  are  several  cemeteries  in  charge  of 
benevolent  associations,  and  Calvary  Cemetery,  the  largest  of  all, 
stretches  well  up  its  slope.  The  road  is  firm,  hard,  and  smooth  as 
a  floor,  with  gen  le  undulations  whose  successive  rises  enable  the 
tourist  and  pleasure-seeker  to  catch  occasional  glimpses  of  the 
bay  and  of  the  Golden  Gate.  Half-way  out  from  Lone  Moun- 
tain is  a  fine  view  of  this  opening  toward  the  sea,  with  the  bold 
precipitous  cliffs  which  line  the  northward  side  of  the  Gate,  just 
veiled  enough  by  the  dimness  of  the  distance  to  cover  the  bare- 
ness of  their  seamed  faces ;  and  beyond  these  rise  the  rounded 
outlines  of  the  hills  which  lead  to  Tamal  Pais,  whose  sharp  peak, 
bristling  with  pines  is  sharply  projected  against  the  sky  beyond. 
The  road  is  filled  with  vehicles  of  every  description,  on  every 
pleasant  day,  especially  on  Saturdays,  when  the  half-holiday 
which  most  business  men  take  is  well  improved.  The  invigora- 
ting air,  the  excitement  of  the  drive,  and  the  mere  absence  from 
the  dusty  city,  all  serve  to  make  this  brisk  trot  along  the  well- 
kept  road,  a  pleasure  worth  enjoying  and  remembering.  Here 
are  conveyances  of  every  description,  from  the  showy  equipage 
of  some  prosperous  citizen,  to  the  humble  light-wagon  of  less  pre- 
tentious people,  who,  with  children  and  family,  are  out  for  a  sniff 
of  pure  air,  a  look  at  the  sea-lions  and  a  sight  at  the  stream  of 
people  who  come  and  go ;  for  a  drive  to  "  the  cliff"  is  one  of  the 


IX    AND    AKOUND    SAN   FRANCISCO.  233 

institutions  of  San  Francisco,  which  all  must  see,  whether  he  go 
in  carriage,  hack,  omnibus,  wagon,  or  afoot. 

On  rising  the  last  of  the  slight  hills  over  which  the  turnpike 
is  laid,  one  has  a  fine  view  of  the  broad  Pacific,  stretching  in  an  un- 
broken line  along  the  horizon,  and  washing  the  beach  which  skirts 
this  side  of  the  promontory.  At  the  right  is  the  outer  side  of  the 
Golden  Gate,  its  broad  waves  ever  open  to  the  ingress  or  egress 
of  the  snowy  sails  which  dot  the  shining  blue  expanse,  while  be- 
yond and  stretching  northward  into  the  dim  vagueness  of  cloud- 
land  are  the  dim  outlines  of  the  Bolinas  Mesa  at  the  base  of  Dux- 
bury  Reef  and  Point  Reyes.  To  the  left  and  southward  lies  the 
long  sandy  beach  on  which  the  surf  ever  breaks  mournfully  or 
thunders  threateningly ;  and  beyond  this  the  bold  rocky  shore  is 
pushed  far  seaward  in  blue  and  purple  peaks  which  melt  in  the 
distance;  the  vast  ocean,  sparkling  like  sapphires  in  the  sun,  or 
gray  under  passing  clouds,  lies  all  along  the  horizon,  and  at  one 
point  iu  its  wavy  line  we  mark  the  dot-like  peaks  of  the  Faral- 
lone  Islands. 

The  road  descends  to  the  brink  of  an  abrupt  cliff  overhanging 
the  sea,  and  commanding  a  view  of  three  or  four  groups  of  rocky 
islets,  which  rise  sharply  from  the  turbulent  waves.  These  are 
the  famous  "  seal  rocks,"  and  their  sole  tenants  are  the  seals  or 
sea-lions,  which  bask  in  the  sunshine  on  their  ledges,  and  the  sea- 
birds  which  light  in  flocks  upon  the  peaks.  The  seals  are  per- 
petually climbing  up  the  rocks,  their  sleek  coats  streaming  with 
water,  or  plunging  into  the  wave  again,  sporting  in  the  liquid  tide 
as  if  keenly  enjoying  their  mere  existence.  Here  and  there  on 
the  higher  pinnacles  of  the  rocks  are  a  few  solitary  ambitious  ani- 
mals, who,  having  climbed  far  above  their  companions,  are  soundly 
sleeping  in  the  sun,  enjoying  a  long  and  profound  nap.  But  for 
the  most  part,  seals  tumble  in  and  out  of  water,  over  and  over 
each  other,  or  crawl  awkwardly  on  the  lower  rocks,  continually 
keeping  up  their  peculiar  grunt  or  bark,  the  noise  of  which  is 
occasionally  drowned  by  the  thunder  of  the  waves  as  they  break 
against  the  cliff.  With  a  good  field-glass,  one  can  watch  every 
motion  of  the  uncouth  and  ungainly  beasts,  and  it  is  a  source  of 


234 


SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


endless  am-usement  for  thosq  who  are  curious  in  the  study  of  their 
habits  to  note  their  peculiar  motions  and  changes  from  place  to 
place.  By  a  State  law  they  are  protected  from  slaughter,  and  so 
they  increase,  multiply,  and  possess  their  place  of  abode  with  as 
much  freedom  from  fear  of  man  as  though  they  were  leagues  away 
from  any  inhabited  country. 

On  the  summit  of  the  cliff  is  the  Cliff  House,  kept  by  Captain 
Foster,  who  provides  ample  shelter  and  entertainment  for  pleasure-" 
seekers  and  their  horses  and  carriages!  From  the  rear  of  the  hotel 
on  a  broad  veranda,  overhanging  the  sea,  one  obtains  a  grand  view 
of  the  panorama  and  of  the  rocks  which  form  the  principal  attrac- 
tion of  the  locality.  Here  are  seats  for  the  weary,  protection  from 
sun  and  rain,  and  cozy  little  rooms  for  the  repasts  which  may  be 
needed  by  those  who  come  to  "  make  a  day  of  it." 

THE  DRIVE  ALONG  THE  BEACH. 

From  the  hotel  a  winding  carriage-way,  blasted  out  of  solid 
rock,  and  guarded  by  a  stone  parapet,  leads  to  the  beach  below. 


THE   DRIVE    ALONG    THE    BEACa 


IN"    AND    AROUND    SAN    FEANCISCO. 


235 


And  along  this  level  "beach,  for  six  or  seven  miles,  one  has  a  glo- 
rious drive  when  the  tide  is  at  its  ebb.  The  firm,  elastic  sand 
makes  an  easy  road,  and  the  combing  waves,  the  wide  expanse  of 
sea,  the  distant  or  nearer  sails  gliding  across  the  watery  floor,  the 
hazy  landscape  in  the  distance,  all  combine  to  form  the  most 
agreeable  surroundings  imaginable. 

There  is  a  never-ceasing  pleasure  to  a  refined  mind  in  looking 
upon,  or  listening  to,  the  hoarse,  murmuring  roar  of  the  sea  ;  an 
unexplainable  charm  in  the  music  of  its  waves,  as,  with  a  seething 
sound,  they  curl  and  gently  break  upon  a  sandy  shore,  during  a 
calm,  or  dash  in  all  their  majesty  and  fury,  with  thundering 
voices,  upon  the  unheeding  rocks  in  a  storm.  This  is  sublimity. 
Besides,  every  shell,  and  pebble,  and  marine  plant,  from  the 
smallest  fragment  of  sea-moss  to  the  largest  weed  that  germinates 
within  the  caverns  of  the  deep,  has  an  architectural  perfection  and 
beauty  that  ever  attracts  the  wondering  admiration  of  the 
thoughtful. 


THE    OCEAN     HOUSE. 


This  beach  extends  continuously  from  Seal  Rock  to  Muscle 
Kock,  about  seven  miles.  Near  the  last-named  place  is  a  soda 
spring,  and  several  veins  of  bituminous  coal,  to  obtain  which, 
shafts  have  been  sunk  to  the  depth  of  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
four  feet,  in  which  the  coal  was  found  to  grow  better  as  they  de- 
scended ;  but,  like  many  similar  enterprises,  when  means  to  work 
it  failed,  it  was  abandoned.  Other  minerals  are  also  found  in  this 
chain  of  hills. 


236 


SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


At  the  lower  end  of  the  beach  the  road  turns  into  the  hills 
again,  and  passing  up  among  the  sand  dunes,  the  Ocean  House  is 
reached,  another  hotel  having  been  passed  just  before  leaving  the 
sea-side.  From  this  point  the  road,  a  well-kept  macadamized 
turnpike  winds  over  the  hills  and  reaches  the  city  by  the  way  of 
the  old  Mission  Dolores. 

THE    MISSION    DOLORES. 

This  part  of  San  Francisco,  still  called  u  The  Mission,"  is  newly 
built,  for  the  most  part,  and  the  few  ancient  relics  of  the  early 
Spanish  occupation  of  the  country,  look  strangely  amidst  the 
garish  display  and  rude  vigor  of  the  new  suburb  of  the  city. 
Here,  sheltered  from  ocean  winds  by  the  hills,  which  also  detain 
the  cold  sea-fogs,  was  the  religious  settlement  of  the  Spanish 
Fathers. 


THE    OLD    MISSIOM    CHURCH    AND    OUT-BUILDINGS. 

From  a  Photograph  by  Hamilton  &  Co. 

The  old-fashioned,  tile-covered  adobe  church  and  buildings 
attached,  part  of  which  are  still  in  use  by  the  Mission,  and  a  part 
is  converted  into  saloons  and  a  store.  This  edifice  was  erected  in 
1775-6,  and  was  completed  and  dedicated  August  1,  1776,  and 
was  formerly  called  San  Francisco,  in  honor  of  the  patron  saint. 
Saint  Francis,  the  name  given  to  the  bay  by  its  discoverer,  Juni- 
pero  Serra,  in  October,  1769. 

The  visitor  will  notice  a  number  of  old  adobe  buildings  scattered 

O 

here  and  there,  in  different  directions;  these  were  erected  for  the  use 


IN    AND    AROUND    SAN    FRANCISCO.  237 

of  the  Indians,  one  part  being  used  for  boys,  and  the  other  for  girls, 
and  in  which  they  resided  until  they  were  about  seventeen  years 
of  age,  when  they  were  allowed  to  marry,  after  which  other  apart- 
ments were  assigned  them,  more  in  accordance  with  their  condition. 

As  late  as  1849  there  were  two  large  boilers  in  the  buildings 
back  of  the  church ;  and  as  meat  was  almost  the  only  article  of 
food,  an  ox  was  killed  and  boiled,  wholesale,  at  which  time  the 
Indians  would  gather  around  and  eat  until  they  were  satisfied. 
Of  course,  most  of  our  readers  are  aware  that  Catholics  are  not 
allowed  to  eat  meat  on  Friday,  but,  owing  to  this  being  the  only 
article  of  diet  to  the  Indians  and  native  Californians  around  the 
Mission,  they  were  not  required  to  abstain  from  it,  even  on  that  day. 

According  to  Mr.  Forbes,  a  very  careful  and  accurate  writer, 
who  published  a  work  in  1835,  entitled  the  "  History  of  Lower 
and  Upper  California,"  the  number  of  black  cattle  belonging  to 
this  Mission  in  1831,  was  five  thousand  six  hundred  and  ten; 
horses,  four  hundred  and  seventy  ;  mules,  forty  ;  while  only  two 
hundred  and  thirty-three  fanegas  (a  fanega  is  about  two  and  a  half 
bushels)  of  wheat,  seventy  of  Indian  corn,  and  forty  of  small 
beans,  were  raised  altogether.  At  that  time,  however,  the  Mis- 
sions had  lost  much  of  their  former  glory  ;  for,  in  1825,  only  six 
years  before,  that  of  Dolores,  alone,  is  said  to  have  had  seventy- 
six  thousand  head  of  cattle,  nine  hundred  and  fifty  tame  horses, 
two  thousand  breeding  mares,  eighty-four  stud  of  choice  breed, 
eight  hundred  and  twenty  mules,  seventy-nine  thousand  •  sheep, 
two  thousand  hogs,  and  four  hundred  and  fifty-six  yoke  of  work- 
ing oxen ;  and  raised  eighteen  thousand  bushels  of  wheat  and 
barley.  Besides,  in  1802,  according  to  Baron  Humboldt,  there 
were  of  males,  in  this  Mission,  four  hundred  and  thirty-three ;  of 
females,  three  hundred  and  eighty-one ;  total,  eight  hundred  and 
fourteen.  And  yet,  according  to  Mr.  Forbes,  in  1831,  there  were 
but  one  hundred  and  twenty-four  males,  and  eighty-five  females  ; 
and  now,  there  are — none.  Truly,  "  the  glory  has  departed." 

At  that  time,  the  Indians  and  native  Californians,  for  many 
miles  around,  would  congregate  *at  the  Mission  Dolores,  about 
three  times  a  year,  bringing  with  them  cattle  enough  to  kill  while 


238 


SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


they  remained,  which  was  generally  about  a  week,   and  have  a 
good  holiday  time  with  each  other. 

Before  the  discovery  of  gold,  it  was  the  custom  here  to  keep  a 
tabular  record  of  all  the  men,  women,  and  children  ;  members  of 
the  church  ;  marriages,  births,  and  deaths ;  the  number  of  live 
stock;  and  amounts  of  produce,  in  all  their  business  details  ;  but, 
since  then,  every  thing  has  changed  for  the  worse.  Even  the  lands 
devoted  to,  and  set  apart  for,  the  use  of  the  Mission,  have,  nearly 
all,  been  squatted  upon,  so  that  now  but  a  few  hundred  varas 
remain  intact ;  and,  as  to  where  the  stock  of  all  kinds  have  gone, 
"  deponent  saith  not." 


GENERAL   VIEW   OF   THE    MISSION    DOLORES,   FROM   THE   POTRERO. 

One  feels  quite  a  pleasurable  curiosity  in  examining  the  old 
Spanish  manuscript  books  still  extant  at  this  Mission,  and  looking 
upon  their  sheepskin  covered  lids  and  buckskin  clasps.  Besides 
these,  there  are  about  six  hundred  printed  volumes,  in  Spanish, 
on  religious  subjects  ;  but,  being  in  a  foreign  language,  they  are 
seldom  or  never  read. 


IN    AND    AROUND    SAN    FKANCISCO.  239 

The  priests  who  taught,  supported,  and  educated  these  simple- 
minded  people  are  all  gone,  and  a  feeling  of  sadness  must  prevail 
in  one's  mind  as  lie  contemplates  the  scene,  so  changed,  so  utterly 
denuded  of  almost  every  thing  that  would  serve  as  a  remembrance 
of  the  peaceful  and  devoted  lives  of  the  early  missionaries  of  the 
cross. 

The  great  point  of  attraction  here  to. visitors  from  the  city,  is 
its  quiet  green  graveyard,  which,  but  for  its  being  so  negligently 
tended,  and  slovenly  kept,  would  be  one  of  the  prettiest  places 
near  the  city  of  San  Francisco. 

It  seems  as  though  we  could  never  weary  in  looking  upon  these 
interesting  scenes ;  but  as  we  have  further  to  go,  and,  we  trust, 
many  more  to  look  upon,  let  us  again  set  out  on  our  jaunt  and 
visit  this  spot  at  our  leisure. 

From  the  Mission  into  the  city  there  lead  several  routes,  but  by 
taking  that  by  Howard  Street,  one  is  brought  nearest  to  one  of 
the  few  suburban  resorts  of  San  Francisco, — 


These  may  be  justly  called  suburban.  Once  a  dwelling-house, 
surrounded  by  ample  pleasure-grounds,  this  place  is  now  a  small 
museum  in  the  midst  of  a  beautiful  park.  In  the  museum  is  a 
good  collection  of  curiosities;  and,  scattered  throughout  the 
grounds,  are  many  curious  birds  and  animals.  Aviaries,  picture- 
galleries,  conservatories,  and  zoological  inclosures  give  variety  to 
the  scene,  and,  in  pleasant  weather,  a  most  enjoyable  day  can 
be  spent  here  among  the  trees,  or  inspecting  the  curiosities  of 
the  place.  San  Francisco  has  no  public  park  as  yet,  and  this 
result  of  the  enterprise  of  a  private  citizen  is  the  only  substitute 
for  what  the  city  should  have. 

THE    CITY   OF    SAN    FEANCISCO. 

Not  much  can  be  offered  the  stranger  in  the  way  of  objects  of 
architectural  taste  and  skill  in  San  Francisco.  The  city  is  now 
(1870)  gradually  improving,  and,  although  its  general  appearance 
is  not  noble,  there  are  a  few  public  buildings  which  exhibit  con- 


240  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

siderable  artistic  merit,  and  are  costly  enough  to  present  a  better 
appearance  than  they  do.  Art  is  vet  young  in  San  Francisco, 
and  the  only  boast  of  its  citizens  is  that  they  have  done  so  much 
in  so  short  a  time.  It  is  a  perpetually  recurring  theme  of  grat- 
ulation  that  the  city  has  so  much  to  be  proud  of,  and  that  its 
triumphs  are  so  great — for  San  Francisco. 

Among  the  most  prominent  public  buildings  may  be  mentioned 
the  following,  which  are  costly  and  attractive  in  appearance : 
the  Grand  Hotel,  corner  of  Market  and  New  Montgomery  streets ; 
the  Mercantile  Library  Building,  an  elegant  structure,  opposite 
the  Cosmopolitan  Hotel,  on  Bush  Street ;  the  California  Theatre, 


SAN  FRANCISCO   INDUSTRIAL  SCHOOL. 

with  an  unpretending  exterior,  but  with  an  admirably  arranged 
and  handsome  interior  and  stage ;  the  Bank  of  California,  with 
probably  the  most  artistically  designed  exterior  of  any  building 
in  the  State,  on  the  corner  of  California  and  Sansome  streets  ;  the 
building  of  the  Young  Men's  Christian  Association,  on  Sutter 
Street,  above  Kearney;  this  structure,  like  the  bank  building,  is  of 
an  easily- worked  and  agreeably-tinted  stone  which  is  quarried 
from  Angel  Island,  in  the  bay  of  San  Francisco.  To  these  might 
be  added  one  or  two  handsome  private  residences,  most  of  which, 
with  the  best  churches,  however,  are  more  noticeable  for  elegantly- 
finished  and  furnished  interiors  than  for  any  architectural  beauty 
which  would  command  the  eye  of  the  passer-by.  There  are 


IN   AND    AROUND    SAN    FRANCISCO.  241 

several  public  institutions  to  which,  a  visit  would  be  profitable ; 
and  though  they  do  not  differ  much  from  similar  institutions 
elsewhere,  the  Protestant  Orphan  Asylum,  the  Industrial  School, 
and  several  other  such  places  are  evidences  of  liberality,  benefi- 
cence, and  care  for  the  needy  and  unfortunate. 

VIEWS    FROM   THE   BAY    OF    SAN   FRANCISCO. 

An  excursion  on  the  bay  is  one  of  the  pleasures  which  a  tourist 
ought  to  secure  by  all  means,  if  possible.  If  no  other  way  presents 
itself,  a  trip  can  be  made  on  the  government  steamers  which  ply 
among  the  fortifications  of  the  harbor.  Of  these  public  works, 
Fort  Point  is  the  first  which  attracts  the  notice  of  the  voyager 
who  enters  the  Golden  Gate.  The  fort  is  of  brick  and  commands 
the  narrow  entrance  to  the  bay  and  harbor;  its  battery  is  formid- 
able, but  the  changes  which  have  been  made  in  modern  enginery 
render  its  brick  walls  any  thing  but  impregnable.  This  point  was 
first  occupied  by  the  Americans  in  March,  1847,  when  it  was 
taken  possession  of  by  Major  Hardie,  of  Colonel  Stevenson's 
regiment.  Here  was  a  small  battery  which  had  been  left  by  the 
Mexicans,  and  here  was  begun  in  1854,  the  present  structure,  the 
frowning  walls  of  which  are  faced  by  the  rocky  galleries  of  Lime 
Point,  just  across  the  Gate,  where  formidable  cannon  virtually 
sweep  the  entire  entrance  of  the  Golden  Gate. 

The  light-house,  adjoining  the  fort,  can  be  seen  for  from  ten  to 
twelve  miles,  and  is  an  important  addition  to  the  mercantile  inter- 
ests of  California,  although  we  regret  to  say  the  lantern,  known  as 
the  "Fresnel  Light,"  is  only  of  the  fifth  order,  and  is  the  smallest 
on  the  coast ;  it  is  fifty-two  feet  above  sea  level.  Two  men  are 
employed  to  attend  it.  Connected  with  this  is  a  fog  bell,  weighing 
one  thousand  one  hundred  pounds,  and  worked  by  machinery,  that 
strikes  every  ten  seconds  for  five  taps — then  has  an  intermission  of 
thirty-four  seconds,  and.  recommences  the  ten-second  strike.  This 
is  kept  constantly  running  during  foggy  weather. 

On  the  same  side  of  the  harbor  (the  southern)  as  Fort  Point,  is 
the  Presidio,  once  the  place  of  official  residence  of  the  Spanish 
and  Mexican  commandante,    and    the  rendezvous  of  the  small 
1G 


242 


SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


military  force  which  was  kept  here.  The  old  adobe  buildings 
have  long  since  disappeared,  and  in  their  place  is  quite  a  compact 
village  of  soldiers'  barracks,  officers'  houses,  mess-rooms,  store- 
houses, etc.,  the  whole  being  situated  on  a  military  reservation 
which  stretches  down  to  and  incloses  Fort  Point.  The  number 


»'IEW   OF   THE    PRESIDIO. 


of  troops  kept  here  varies  constantly,  but  the  majority  of  those 
stationed  in  the  harbor  are  at  Camp  "Reynolds  and  the  other  posts 
on  Angel  Island,  one  of  the  fortified  islands  in  the  northwestern 
part  of  the  bay,  near  Eaccoon  Straits ;  and  south  of  this  is  Yerba 
Buena,  or  Goat  Island,  ako  a  government  reservation  and  military 
post.  In  the  centre  of  that  part  of  the  bay  nearest  San  Francisco 
is  the  island  of  Alcatraz  (known  in  the  government  documents  as 
Alcatraces),  on  which  is  an  immense  fortification,  a  miniature 
Gibraltar.  The  island  is  well  nigh  inaccessible,  save  at  a  single 
point,  and  the  defensive  and  offensive  works  on  the  island,  which 
is  a  mass  of  precipitous  rock,  are  very  complete  in  their  design 
and  finish. 

VIEWS    FROM    TELEGRAPH    HILL. 

From  Telegraph  Hill,  one  of  the  most  northerly  of  the  many 
eminences  on  which  San  Francisco  is  built,  one  can  secure  the  best 


IN    AND    AROUND    SAN    FRANCISCO.  243 

view  of  the  city  and  bay  anywhere  to  be  found.  There  is  actually 
no  single  point  from  which  a  full  general  view  of  San  Francisco  can 
be  obtained,  situated  as  it  is  among  the  hills  and  straggling  off 
into  the  more  level  spaces  which  form  the  southern  base  of  the 
promontory.  But  the  most  correct  idea  of  the  shape  of  the  mag- 
nificent bay,  its  extent,  and  the  position  of  the  city  is  had  after  a 
view  of  the  wonderful  panorama  which  is  seen  from  the  top  of 
Telegraph  Hill. 

Seaward,  one  looks  through  the  Gate  upon  the  sky  line  of  the 
ocean  ;  turning  northward,  is  the  range  of  hills  which  culminates 
in  Mount  Tarnal  Pais ;  nearer,  in  the  same  direction,  is  Fort  Al- 
catraz,  and,  still  turning  northward,  one  sees  the  approaches  to 
Carquinez  Straits,  the  gateway  of  the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin 
rivers  ;  eastward,  as  the  observer  turns,  are  the  Contra  Costa  hills, 
brown  and  purple  in  the  dry  months,  or  gold  and  green  in  the 
early  spring ;  due  eastward  is  Oakland,  dotting  the  plain  and 
creeping  up  the  slopes  beyond,  above  which  rises  the  rounded 
peak  of  Mount  Diablo;  and  southward,  where  the  blue  waters  of 
the  land-locked  bay  seem  to  stretch  interminably,  are  the  hills 
which  encircle  the  ancient  mission  of  San  Jose,  and  still  beyond 
are  the  snowy  peaks  of  the  Coast  Range.  It  is  a  noble  view,  and 
well  worth  the  climb  it  costs. 

EXCURSION    TO    TAMAL   PAIS. 

A  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  to  the  summit  of  Tamal  Pais, 
a  peak  of  the  broken  Coast  Range,  in  Marin  county,  on  the  blunt 
peninsula  which  is  washed  by  the  Pacdfic  on  the  outer  side  and 
the  waters  of  the  bay  within.  Mount  Tamal  Pais  is  2,597  feet  high, 
and  from  its  summit  a  very  extensive  panorama  of  ocean,  bay, 
forest,  and  hill  is  seen.  Good  trails  lead  up  to  the  top  of  the 
mountain  from  San  Rafael,  which  town  is  reached  by  steamer 
from  San  Francisco,  though  a  longer  but  more  picturesque  route 
from.  Saucelito,  also  reached  by  steamboat,  is  often  used  by  tourists. 
On  a  clear  day,  the  view  from  the  peak  of  Tamal  Pais  is  extensive 
and  striking  ;  and  even  when  the  fogs  are  rolling  in,  the  observer 
will  obtain  some  most  singular  and  remarkable  effects  of  light  and 


244  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

shade,  the  rolling  wreaths  of  cloud,  the  broken  sunlight,  and  the 
fleecy  curtain  of  fog  which  shuts  down  over  sea  and  mountain 
range,  forming  a  moving  panorama,  constantly  changing  and  most 
fascinating.  A  trip  to  Tamal  Pais,  though  somewhat  fatiguing, 
certainly  includes  some  of  the  most  novel  sights  around  San 
Francisco. 


THE   CALIFORNIA   GEYSERS. 


245 


CHAPTEE    X. 
THE    CALIFORNIA    GEYSERS. 

SAILING-   FKOM   THE   WHARF. 


S  the  fine  little  steamer 
"  Rambler  "  was  sounding 
her  last  whistle,  we  received 
a  parting  injunction — writes 
an  esteemed  acquaintance*- 
from  friends  on  the  Broad- 
way street  wharf,  San  Fran- 
cisco, "to  keep  well  aft," 
and  stepped  on  board. 

It  was  one  of  the  chilliest, 
dreariest,  most  disagreeable 
of  San  Francisco's  summer 
A  dense  fog, 
fresh  from  the  great  factory 
out  on  the  Pacific,  was  roll- 


THE   WITCHES'   CAULDRON. 

Sketched  from  nature  by  George  Tirrell. 
*  Mr.  George  Tin-oil,  designer  and  painter  of  the  Panorama  of  California. 


246  SCENES   IN    CALIFORNIA. 

ing  in  over  the  hills  at  the  back  of  the  city,  and  hurrying  across 
the  bay  before  a  stiff  north-west  wind.  The  waves,  as  they  rolled 
along  the  sides  of  the  shipping,  or  splashed  among  the  piles, 
seemed  to  be  playing  a  most  melancholy  march,  to  which  the 
great  army  of  fog-clouds  moved  across  the  cheerless  water,  and 
their  commanding  officer — the  wind — seemed  to  be  continually 
saying  "  forward,"  as  it  whistled  through  the  rigging  of  the 
ships. 

The  individual  who  is  always  just  too  late,  made  his  appear- 
ance, as  usual,  as  the  steamer's  fasts  were  cast  off,  and  her  wheels 
commenced  their  lively  though  monotonous  ditty  in  the  water. 

Two  or  three  Whitehall  boatmen,  who  were  lying  off  the  wharf, 
evidently  expecting  such  a  "  fare,"  gave  their  lazily  playing  skulls 
a  vigorous  pull,  which  sent  their  beautiful  little  craft  darting  into 
the  wharf.  The  boy  with,  the  basket  of  oranges  hastened  to  offer 
the  would-be-traveller  "  three  for  two  bits,"  by  way  of  consolation, 
and  as  he  slowly  proceeded  up  the  dock  again,  the  other  boy  with 
the  papers  and  magazines  called  his  attention  to  the  last  "  Har- 
per's," or  "  Overland  Monthly." 

The  ten  thousand  voices  of  the  city  became  blended  into  a  con- 
tinuous roar,  as  we  glided  out  into  the  stream ;  the  long  drawn 
"go-o-o  ahead,"  or  "hi-i-gh,"  of  the  stevedores  at  their  work, dis- 
charging the  stately  clippers,  being  about  the  only  intelligible 
sounds  to  be  distinguished  above  the  mass. 

CROSSING   THE   BAY. 

Soon  the  outermost  ship,  on  board  of  which  a  disconsolate 
looking  "jolly  tar"  was  riding  down  one  of  the  head  stays,  giving 
it  a  "lick"  of  tar  as  he  went,  was  passed,  and  we  struck  the  strong 
current  of  wind  which  was  blowing  in  at  the  Golden  Gate  (care- 
lessly left  open,  as  usual).  The  young  giant  of  a  city  had  become 
swallowed  up  in  the  gloom  of  the  fog,  and  its  thousands  of  busy 
people  ceased  to  exist,  except  in  our  imaginations.  After  passing 
Angel  Island,  the  fog  began  to  lift ;  we  were  approaching  the 
edge  of  the  bank ;  and  soon  the  sun  appeared,  hard  at  work  at 
his  apparently  hopeless  task  of  devouring  the  intruding  fog,  which 


THE    CALIFORNIA   GEYSEKS.  247 

had  dared  to  interpose  its  cold  billows  between  liim  and  the  bay, 
upon  which  he  loves  to  shine. 

The  course  of  the  boat  was  along  the  western  side  of  Pablo  Bay, 
close  enough  to  the  shore  to  give  the  passengers  a  fine  view  of  it, 
as  w^ell  as  of  the  inland  country,  and  the  more  distant  mountains 
of  the  coast  range.  Large  masses  of  misty  clouds,  wThich  had 
become  detached  from  the  main  fog  bank,  still  partially  obscured 
the  sunlight,  casting  enormous  shadows  along  the  hill  sides  and 
across  the  plains,  heightening,  by  contrast,  the  golden  tinge  of  the 
wild  oats,  and  giving  additional  beauty  to  the  varied  tints  of  the 
cultivated  fields.  Beyond,  Tamal  Pais,  and  other  and  lesser 
peaks  of  the  Coast  Range,  piled  their  wealth  of  purple  light  and 
misty  shadows,  against  the  brightness  of  the  western  sky. 

I  wonder  that  our  artists,  in  their  search  for  the  picturesque, 
have  overlooked  the  splendid  scene  which  Tamal  Pais  and  the 
adjacent  mountains  present  from  the  vicinity  of -Red  Rock,  or 
from  the  eastern  shore  of  the  straits.  It  is  certainly  one  of  the 
most  picturesque  scenes  anywhere  in  the  vicinity  of  San  Francisco, 
especially  toward  sunset,  when  the  long  streaks  of  sunlight  come 
streaming  down  the  ravines,  piercing  with  their  golden  light  the 
hazy  mystery  which  envelops  the  mountains,  and  brilliantly  illum- 
inating the  intervening  plains  and  hill-sides.  From  the  familiarity 
of  the  view,  a  good  picture  would,  without  doubt,  be  much  sought 
after. 

NAVIGATION  OF  PETALUMA  CREEK. 

The  seamanship  of  the  pilot  was  much  exercised  while  navi- 
gating the  "Rambler"  up  Petaluma  Creek.  The  creek  is  merely  a 
long,  narrow,  ditch-like  indentation,  which  makes  up  into  the  flat 
tule  plains  at  the  northern  side  of  Pablo  Bay,  and  into  which  the 
tide  ebbs  and  flows.  Its  course  very  much  resembles  the  track  of 
a  man  who  has  spent  half  an  hour  hunting  for  a  lost  pocket-book 
in  a  field.  If,  after  gazing  awhile  at  the  creek,  the  eye  should  be 
suddenly  turned  to  a  ram's  horn  or  a  manzanita  stick,  the  latter 
would  appear  perfectly  straight,  by  comparison.  First  we  go 
toward  the  north  star  awhile,  then  we  come  to  a  short  bend 
where  an  immense  amount  of  backing,  and  stopping,  and  going 


248 


SCENES   IN   CALIFORNIA. 


ahead  occurs,  which  all  results  in  running  the  boat  hard  and  fast 
ashore.  Then  the  pilot,  perspiring  freely  from  his  violent  exer- 
tions at  the  wheel,  thrusts  his  head  out  of  the  window,  and,  after 
taking  a  survey  of  the  state  of  aifairs,  sets  himself  to  ringing  the 
signal  bells  again.  Then  the  crew  get  out  a  long  pole,  and  plant- 
ing one  end  in  the  bank,  apply  their  united  "strength  to  the  other. 
No  movement !  Then  the  captain  heroically  rushes  ashore  in  the 
mud  and  tules,  and  calls  for  volunteers  to  help  him  push.  Human 


strength  and  steam  triumph  in  the  end,  and  the  "  Rambler,"  with 
one  side  all  besmeared  with  mud,  goes  paddling  off  toward  Cape 
Horn.  After  progressing  a  short  distance  in  this  direction,  another 
bend  is  reached,  when  more  superhuman  exertion  on  the  part  of 
the  pilot  ensues,  and  plump  we  go  ashore  again.  Then  the  captain 
gives  utterance  to  a  vigorous  exclamation  (but  as  the  expletive 
does  no  good,  it  is  hardly  necessary  to  repeat  it  here),  and  then 
he  jumps  into  the  mud  again.  Half  the  passengers  follow  suit, 
the  crew  go  through  with  their  pole  exercise,  pilot  plays  another 


THE    CALIFORNIA   GEYSERS.  249 

tune  on  the  bells,,  engineer  gets  bothered,  and  finally  off  we  start 
in  the  direction  of  Japan,  leaving  the  captain  and  his  shore  party 
standing  in  the  mud.  Upon  backing  up  for  them  to  get  on  board, 
the  boat  becomes  fast  again.  This  is  a  fair  specimen  of  the  navi- 
gation of  Petaluma  Creek  above  the  city  (of  one  house),  called 
the  "Haystack." 

Before  reaching  Petaluma,  we  met  a  little  steamer  coming  down 
with  a  load  of  wood.  She  resembled  an  immense  pile  of  wood 
with  a  smoke-stack  in  the  centre,  floating  down  the  stream,  and 
appeared  to  take  up  the  whole  width  of  the  creek,  when  our  pas- 
sengers began  to  wonder  how  we  were  to  get  by.  It  was  a  tight 
fit.  There  was  not  room  enough  left  between  the  two  boats  to 
insert  this  sheet  of  paper.  The  "  Rambler"  puffed,  and  from  the 
depths  of  the  wood  pile  was  heard  a  sort  of  wheezing,  as  if  half  a 
dozen  people  with  bad  colds  were  down  there  somewhere,  all  try- 
ing to  cough  at  once,  and  couldn't.  The  captain  gave  utterance 
to  a  few  more  expletives,  as  the  rough  ends  of  the  wood  defaced 
the  new  paint  on  our  boat ;  but  the  skipper  of  the  wood-pile  only 
laughed ;  yet,  as  the  "  Rambler,"  in  passing,  scraped  off  two  or 
three  cords  of  his  cargo,  it  then  became  our  turn  to  laugh. 

PETALUMA,  AND  THE  RUSSIAN  RIVER  VALLEY. 

Petaluma  was  reached  at  last,  and  the  passengers  for  Healds- 
burg  found  a  stage  in  waiting.  Jumping  in,  we  were  soon  whiz- 
zing across  the  plains  behind  a  couple  of  fine  colts.  The  road  lay 
directly  up  the  Petaluma  and  Russian  River  Yalleys.  Past  the 
ranches — along  the  sides  of  interminable  fields  of  corn  and 
grain — through  the  splendid  park-like  groves — sometimes  across 
the  open  plain,  at  others  winding  around  the  base  of  the  hills, 
which  make  up  from  the  eastern  side  of  the  valley. 

Santa  Rosa  was  reached  by  sunset.  Our  arrival  was  hailed  by 
the  ringing  of  a  great  number  and  variety  of  bells.  How  sing- 
ular it  is  that  the  arrival  of  a  stage-coach  in  a  country  town 
always  sets  the  dinner-bells  to  ringing,  especially  if  the  occurrence 
happens  about  meal  time. 

By  the  time  supper  was  despatched,  and  a  pair  of  sober  old 


250  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

stagers  put  to  in  the  place  of  our  frisky  young  colts,  the  moon  had 
risen  over  the  mountains,  and  was  flooding  the  v.alley  with  her 
glorious  sheen,  tipping  the  fine  old  oaks  with  a  silvery  fringe  of 
light,  and  laying  their  solemn  shadows  along  the  grass  and  across 
the  road.  A  pleasant  ride  of  two  hours  carried  us  to  the  end  of 
our  first  day's  journey,  Healdsburg. 

On  the  following  morning,  we  were  recommended  to  apply  at 
the  stable  opposite  the  hotel  for  horses.  Having  selected  one 
warranted  not  to  kick  up  nor  stand  on  his  hind  legs,  nor  jump 
stiff-legged,  nor  play  any  other  pranks,  he  was  saddled  and 
bridled  at  once.  Our  portfolio  (which,  for  want  of  a  better  cover- 
ing, was  carried  in  an  old  barley  sack)  was  slung  on  one  side,  and 
our  wardrobe  depended  at  the  other.  A  whip  was  added  to  com- 
plete the  outfit,  accompanied  by  the  observation  that  as  "  Old 
Pete"  was  apt  to  "  soger,"  "  we  might  find  it  useful." 

Then  the  stable  man  attempted  to  describe  the  road  to  Ray's 
Ranche.  First,  we  should  come  to  a  bridge  ;  a  mile  beyond  that, 
see  a  house,  to  which  we  were  to  pay  no  attention,  but  look  out 
for  a  haystack.  Having  found  the  haystack,  we  were  to  turn  to 
the  left,  and  would  soon  come  to  a  long  lane,  that  would  lead  us 
to  another  house,  where  we  were  either  to  turn  to  the  right,  or 
keep  straight  ahead,  he  had  forgotten  which.  At  this  point  of  the 
description,  a  bystander  interposed,  saying  that  we  must  turn  to 
the  left;  upon  this,  an  argument  sprung  up  between  the  two, 
which  nearly  led  to  a  fight. 

Finding  that  there  was  not  much  information  to  be  elicited 
from  those  witnesses,  "  Old  Pete"  received  a  touch  and  started, 
with  our  head  buzzing  with  right  and  left  hand  roads,  while  a 
regiment  of  ranches,  lanes,  and  haystacks,  seemed  to  be  a  "  bob- 
bing round"  just  ahead  of  the  horse's  nose.  We  found  the  bridge, 
and  saw  the  house,  to  which  we  were  to  pay  no  attention ;  there 
was  no  need  of  looking  out  for  a  haystack,  for  a  dozen  were  in 
sight ;  so,  selecting  the  biggest  one,  we  turned  to  the  left,  accord- 
ing to  the  chart. 

"We  rode  along  about  a  mile,  and  came  to  a  fence  which  barred 
any  further  progress  in  that  direction  ;  then  kept  along  the  fence 


THE   CALIFORNIA    GEYSEKS. 


251 


until  we  came  to  a  lane  which  took  us  to  a  pair  of  bars.  Let 
down  the  obstruction,  traversed  another  lane,  and  at  the  end  of 
it  found  ourselves  in  somebody's  dooryard.  It  was  evident  that 
we  had  taken  the  wrong  road. 

We  now  obtained  fresh  directions  at  the  farm-house,  but  as 
three  or  four  attempted  at  the  same  time  to  tell  us  the  way — all 
talking  at  once,  and  each  insisting  upon  his  favorite  route  so  that 
we  speedily  became  mixed  up  again  with  another  labyrinth  of 
fences,  lanes,  and  haystacks — we  began  to  doubt  the  existence  of 
such  a  place  as  "  Ray's  Ranche."  It  seemed  forever  retreating  as 
we  advanced,  like  the  mythical  crock  of  gold,  buried  at  the  foot 
of  a  rainbow,  which  we  remembered  starting  in  search  of  once, 
when  a  youngster. 

But  the  ranche  was  found  at  last,  and  a  very  fine  one  it  is,  too. 
The  house  is  situated  a  little  way  up  in  the  foot-hills,  and  com- 
mands a  splendid  view  of  Russian  River  Valley,  the  Coast  Range, 
Mount  St.  Helens,  etc.  The  ranche  itself,  garden,  orchards,  and 
fields  of  wheat  and  corn,  is  situated  in  a  valley,  just  below  the 
house,  which  makes  up  between  the  steep  mountain  sides.  A 


RAY'S  RANCHE  AND   RUSSIAN   KIVER  VALLEY. 

brook  winds  through  the  whole  length  of  the  little  valley,  afford- 
ing  capital  facilities  for  irrigation. 

We  had  the  good  luck  here  to  fall  in  with  Mr.  G ,  one  of 


252  SCENES   IN    CALIFORNIA. 

the  proprietors  of  the  Geysers,  who  was  also  on  the  way  up.  From 
the  accounts  which  have  been  published,  we  expected  to  find  the 
road  from  here  a  rough  one.  But  it  is  nothing  of  the  sort.  It  is 
a  very  good  mountain  trail,  wide  enough  for  a  wagon  to  pass 
along  its  whole  length.  Buggies  have  been  clear  through,  and 
could  go  again,  were  a  few  days'  work  to  be  expended  upon  the 
trail.  It  is  quite  steep,  in  many  places,  as  a  matter  of  course ; 
but  from  the  fact  that  Mr.  G—  -  (who  was  mounted  upon  a 
young  colt,  that  had  never  before  been  ridden,  and  had  simply  a 
piece  of  rope  by  way  of  bridle)  trotted  down  most  of  the  declivi- 
ties, it  may  be  inferred  that  the  grade  is  not  so  very  steep. 

The  first  three  or  four  miles  beyond  Ray's,  to  the  summit  of  the 
first  ridge,  is  all  up  hill ;  nearly  1,700  feet  in  altitude  being  gained 
in  that  distance,  or  2,317  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  Ray's 
being  617. 


There  are  few  places  in  all  California  where  a  more  magnificent 
view  can  be  obtained,  than  the  one  seen  from  this  ridge.  The 
whole  valley  of  Russian  River  lies  like  a  map  at  your  feet,  extend- 
ing from  the  south-east  and  south,  where  it  joins  Petaluma  Yalley, 
clear  round  to  the  north-west.  The  course  of  the  river  can  be  traced 
for  miles,  far  away,  alternately  sweeping  its  great  curves  of  rippling 
silver  out  into  the  opening  plain,  or  disappearing  behind  the  dark 
masses  of  timber.  From  one  end  of  the  valley  to  the  other,  the 
golden  yellow  of  the  plain  is  diversified  by  the  darker  tints  of  the 
noble  oaks.  In  some  places  they  stand  in  great  crowds  ;  then  an 
open  space  will  occur,  with  perhaps  a  few  scattered  trees,  which 
serve  to  conduct  the  eye  to  where  a  long  line  of  them  appears? 
like  an  army  drawn  up  for  review,  with  a  few  single  trees  in  front 
by  way  of  officers  ;  and  in  the  rear  a  confused  crowd  of  stragglers 
to  represent  the  baggage  train  and  camp  followers.  Here  and 
there,  among  the  oaks,  the  vivid  green  foliage  and  bright  red 
stems  of  the  graceful  madrone,  and  on  the  banks  of  the  river  can 
be  seen  the  silvery  willows  and  the  dusky  sycamores. 

The  beauty  of  the  plain  is  still  more  enhanced  by  the  numerous 


THE    CALIFORNIA   GEYSERS.  253 

ranches,  with  their  widely  extending  fields  of  ripe  grain  and  ver- 
dant corn. 

Beyond  the  valley  is  the  long  extending  line  of  the  Coast  Moun- 
tains. The  slanting  rays  of  the  declining  sun  were  overspreading 
the  mysterious  blue  and  purple  of  their  shadowy  sides  with  a 
glorious  golden  haze,  through  whose  gauzy  splendor  could  be 
traced  the  summits  only  of  the  different  ranges — towering  one 
above  the  other,  each  succeeding  fainter  than  the  last,  until  the 
indescribably  fine  outline  of  the  highest  peaks,  but  one  remove,  in 
color,  from  the  sky  itself,  bounded  the  prospect. 

Toward  the  south-east,  we  could  see  Mount  St.  Helen's,  and  the 
upper  part  of  JSTapa  Yalley.  St.  Helen's  is  certainly  the  most 
beautiful  mountain  in  California.  It  is  far  from  being  as  lofty 
as  its  more  pretentious  brethren  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and  by 
the  side  of  the  great  Shasta  Butte  it  would  be  dwarfed  to  a  mole- 
hill ;  but  its  chaste  and  graceful  outline  is  the  very  ideal  of 
mountain  form.  There  is  said  to  be  a  copper  plate,  bearing  an 
inscription,  on  the  summit  of  this  mountain,  placed  there  by  the 
Russians  many  years  ago. 

Away  off,  toward  the  south,  we  could  discern  that  same  old  fog, 
still  resting,  like  a  huge  incubus,  upon  San  Francisco  bay.  Its 
fleecy  billows  were  constantly  in  motion — now  obscuring,  now 
revealing  the  summits  of  different  peaks,  which  rose  like  islands 
out  of  the  sea  of  clouds.  Above,  and  far  beyond  the  fog,  the 
view  terminated  with  the  long,  level  line  of  the  blue  Pacific,  sixty 
or  seventy  miles  distant. 

From  the  point  where  we  have  stopped  to  take  this  extended 
view  (too  much  extended,  on  paper,  perhaps  the  reader  will  think), 
the  horses  climbed  slowly  up  the  steep  ascent,  leading  to  a 
plateau,  on  the  northern  side  of  a  mountain,  which  has  received 
no  less  than  three  different  names.  As  it  is  a  difficult  matter, 
among  so  many  titles,  to  fix  upon  the  proper  one,  we  will  enumer- 
ate them  all,  and  the  reader  can  take  his  choice.  The  mountain 

was  first  called  "  Godwin's  Peak,"  in  honor  of — there,  G ,  the 

cat's  out  of  the  bag  !  your  name  has  got  into  print,  in  spite  of 
our  endeavors  to  keep  it  out.  With  characteristic  modesty,  Mr. 


254:  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

G declined  the  honor  which  the  name  conferred  upon  him, 

and  it  was  changed  by  somebody  or  other  to  "  Geyser  Peak ;" 
but,  for  some  unknown  reason,  this  name  also  failed  to  stick,  and 
somebody  else  came  along  and  called  it  "  Sulphur  Peak."  Both 
the  latter  names  are  inappropriate,  for  there  are  no  Geysers  nor 
no  sulphur  within  five  miles  of  the  mountain.  G.,  we  are  afraid 
you  will  have  to  endure  your  honors,  and  stand  godfather  to  it. 

The  "  Peak"  rises  to  the  height  of  three  thousand  four  hundred 
and  seventy-one  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  its  sides  are 
covered,  clear  to  the  summit,  with  a  thick  growth  of  tangled 
chaparal.  From  here,  the  trail  runs  along  the  narrow  ridge  of 
the  mountains,  forming  the  divide  between  "  Sulphur  Creek"  (an 
odious  name  for  a  beautiful  trout  stream)  and  Pluton  River. 
The  ridge  is  called  the  "  Hog's  Back" — still  another  name,  as 
inappropriate  as  it  is  homely.  The  ridge  much  more  resembles 
the  back  of  a  horse  which  has  just  crossed  the  plains,  or  has 
dieted  for  some  time  on  shavings,  than  that  of  a  plump  porker. 
From  the  end  of  this  ridge  the  trail  is  quite  level,  as  far  as  the 
top  of  the  hill,  which  pitches  sharply  down  to  the  river,  and  at 
the  foot  of  which  the  Geysers  are  situated. 

ARRIVAL   AT   THE    GEYSERS. 

When  about  two-thirds  of  the  way  down  the  hill,  the  rushing 
noise  of  the  escaping  steam  of  the  Great  Geyser  can  be  heard ; 
but,  unless  the  stranger's  attention  was  called  to  it,  he  would  mis- 
take the  sound  for  the  roaring  of  the  river.  About  this  time, 
too,  is  recognized  the  sulphurous  smell  with  which  the  air  is 
impregnated. 

Just  as  the  traveller  begins  seriously  to  think  that  the  hill  has 
no  bottom,  the  white  gable  end  of  the  hotel,  looking  strangely  out 
of  place  among  its  wild  surroundings,  comes  unexpectedly  into 
sight. 

Upon  awakening,  on  the  following  morning,  it  was  a  difficult 
matter  to  convince  ourselves  that  we  had  not  been  transported, 
while  asleep,  to  the  close  vicinity  of  some  of  the  wrharves  in  San 
Francisco,  there  was  such  &  powerful  smell  of  what  seemed  to  be 


THE   CALIFORNIA    GEYSEKS. 


255 


GEYSER  SPRINGS  HOTEL. 


ancient  dock  mud.  It  was  the  sulphur.  The  smell  is  a  trifle  un- 
pleasant at  first,  but  one  soon  becomes  accustomed  to  it,  and  rather 
likes  it  than  otherwise. 

The  view  of  the  Geysers,  from  the  hotel,  is  a  very  striking  one, 
more  especially  in  the  morning,  when  the  steam  can  be  plainly 
seen,  issuing  from  the  earth  in  a  hundred  different  places ;  the 
numerous  columns  uniting  at  some  distance  above  the  earth,  and 
forming  an  immense  cloud,  which  overhangs  the  whole  canon. 

As  the  sun  advances  above  the  hills,  this  cloud  is  speedily 
"  eaten  up,"  and  the  different  columns  of  steam,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  those  from  the  Steamboat  Geyser,  the  Witches'  Cauldron, 
and  a  few  others,  become  invisible,  being  evaporated  as  fast  as 
they  issue  from  the  ground. 

Breakfast  disposed  of,  Mr.  G.  kindly  offered  to  conduct  us  to 


256 


SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


the  different  springs.  The  trail  descends  abruptly  from  the  house, 
among  the  tangled  undergrowth  of  the  steep  mountain  side,  to  the 
river,  some  ninety  feet  below.  We  passed  on  the  way  the  long 
row  of  bathing-houses,  the  water  for  which  is  conveyed  across  the 
river  in  a  lead  pipe,  from  a  hot  sulphur  spring  on  the  opposite 
side. 

The  unearthly-looking  canon,  in  which  most  of  the  springs  are 
situated,  makes  up  into  the  mountains  directly  from  the  river.  A 
small  stream  of  water,  which  rises  at  the  head  of  the  caiion,  flows 
through  its  whole  length.  The  stream  is  pure  and  cold  at  its 
source,  but  gradually  becomes  heated,  and  its  purity  sadly  sullied, 
as  it  receives  the  waters  of  the  numerous  springs  along  its  banks. 


GEYSER   CANON. 


Hot  springs  and  cold  springs  ;  white,  red,  and  black  sulphur 
springs ;  iron,  soda,  and  boiling  alum  springs ;  and  the  deuce  only 
knows  what  other  kind  of  springs,  all  pour  their  medicated  waters 
into  the  little  stream,  until  its  once  pure  and  limpid  water — like  a 
human  patient  made  sick  by  over-doctoring — becomes  pale,  and 


THE    CALIFORNIA    GEYSERS. 


257 


has(a  wheyish,  sickly,  unnatural  look,  as  it  feverishly  tosses  and 
tumbles  over  its  rocky  bed. 

A  short  distance  up  the  canon  there  is  a  deep,  shady  pool,  which 
receives  the  united  waters  of  all  the  springs  above  it.  By  the 
time  the  stream  reaches  here,  its  medicated  waters  become  cooled 
to  the  temperature  of  a  warm  summer  day,  and  the  basin  forms, 
perhaps,  the  most  luxurious  bath  to  be  found  in  the  world. 

A  few  feet  from  this,  there  is  a  warm  alum  and  iron  spring, 
whose  water  is  more  thoroughly  impregnated  than  any  of  the 
others.  . 


PKOSEEPINE'S  GROTTO. 


A  little  way  further  up  is  "  Proserpine's  Grotto,"  an  enchanting 
retreat  among  the  wild  rocks,  completely  surrounded  and  enclosed 
by  the  fantastic  roots  and  twisted  branches  of  the  bay  trees,  and 
17 


258  SCENES    IN   CALIFORNIA. 

roofed  over  by  tlieir  wide-spreading  foliage.  Glimpses  of  the  nar- 
row gorge  above,  with  its  numerous  cascades,  can  be  obtained 
through  the  openings  of  the  trees  ;  the  whole  forming  one  of  the 
finest  "  little  bits,"  as  an  artist  would  call  it,  to  be  found  in  the 
country. 

As  we  proceeded  up  the  canon  the  springs  became  more  numer- 
ous. They  were  bubbling  and  boiling  in  every  direction.  We 
hardly  dared  to  move  for  fear  of  putting  our  feet  into  a  spring  of 
boiling  alum,  or  red'  sulphur,  or  some  other  infernal  concoction. 
The  water  of  the  stream,  too,  was  now  scalding  hot,  and  the  rocks, 
and  the  crumbling,  porous  earth,  were  nearly  as  hot  as  the  water. 
We  took  good  care  to  literally  "  follow  in  the  footsteps  of  our 
illustrious  predecessor,"  as  he  hopped  about  from  boulder  to  boul- 
der, or  rambled  along  in  (as  we  thought)  dangerous  proximity  to 
the  boiling  waters.  Every  moment  he  would  pick  up  a  handful 
of  magnesia,  or  alum,  or  sulphur,  or  tartaric  acid,  or  Epsom  salts, 
or  some  other  nasty  stuff,  plenty  of  which  encrusted  all  the  rocks 
and  earth  in  the  vicinity,  and  invite  us  to  taste,  them.  From  fre- 
quent nibblings  at  the  different  deposits,  our  mouths  became  so 
puckered  up,  that  all  taste  was  lost  for  any  thing  else. 

In  addition  to  these  strange  and  unnatural  sights,  the  ear  was 
saluted  by  a  great  variety  of  startling  sounds.  Every  spring  had 
a  voice.  Some  hissed  and  sputtered  like  water  poured  upon  red 
hot  iron  ;  others  reminded  one  of  the  singing  of  a  tea-kettle,  or  the 
purring  of  a  cat ;  and  others  seethed  and  bubbled  like  so  many 
cauldrons  of  boiling  oil.  One  sounded  precisely  like  the  ma- 
chinery of  a  grist  mill  in  motion  (it  is  called  "  The  Devil's  Grist 
Mill"),  and  another  like  the  propeller  of  a  steamer. 

High  above  all  these  sounds  was  ttoe  loud  roaring  of  the  great 
"Steamboat  Geyser."*  The  steam  of  this  Geyser  issues  with 
great  force  from  a  hole  about  two  feet  in  diameter,  and  it  is  so 
heated  as  to  be  invisible  until  it  -has  risen  to  some  height  from  the 

*  This  Geyser  is  shown  in  the  f  iew  of  "  Geyser  Canon."  It  is  the  upper  large  column 
of  steam  on  the  left  side  of  the  canon  ;  the  one  below  it,  and  nearer  the  spectator,  is 
the  "  Witches'  Cauldron."  The  foreground  of  the  view  is  occupied  by  the  "  Mountain 
of  Fire,"  from  which  the  steam  issues  by  a  hundred  different  apertures. 


THE    CALIFORNIA    GEYSERS.         .  259 

ground.  It  is  highly  dangerous  to  approach  very  close  to  it  unless 
there  is  sufficient  wind  to  blow  the  steam  aside. 

But  the  most  startling  of  all  the  various  sounds  was  a  continuous 
subterranean  roar,  similar  to  that  which  precedes  an  earthquake. 

We  must  confess,  that  when  in  the  midst  of  all  these  horrible 

sights  and  sounds,  we  felt  very  much  like  suggesting  to  G 

the  propriety  of  returning,  but  a  fresh  handful  of  Epsom  salts 
and  alum,  mixed,  stopped  our  mouths,  and  by  the  time  we  had 
ceased  sputtering  over  the  puckerish  compound,  the  "Witches' 
Cauldron"  was  reached.  (See  vignette.)  This  is  a  horrible  place. 

"Mind  how  you  step  here,"  said  G ,  as  we  approached  it; 

and,  with  the  utmost  caution,  we  placed  our  tens  in  his  tracks, 
that  is,  as  much  of  them  as  we  could  get  in. 

The  cauldron  is  a  hole,  sunk  like  a  well  in  the  precipitous  side 
of  the  mountain,  and  is  of  unknown  depth.  It  is  filled  to  the 
brim  with  something  that  looks  very  much  like  burnt  cork  and 
water  (we  believe  the  principal  ingredient  is  black  sulphur).  This 
liquid  blackness  is  in  constant  motion,  bubbling  and  surging  from 
side  to  side,  and  throwing  up  its  boiling  spray  to  the  height  of 
three  or  four  feet.  Its  vapor  deposits  a  black  sediment  on  all  the 
rocks  in  its  vicinity. 

There  are  a  great  many  other  springs — some  twro  hundred  in 
number — of  every  gradation  of  temperature,  from  boiling  hot  to 
icy  cold,  and  impregnated  with  all  sorts  of  mineral  and  chemical 
compounds;  frequently  the  two  extremes  of  heat  and  cold  are 
found  within  a  few  inches  of  each  other.  But  as  all  the  other 
springs  present  nearly  the  same  characteristics  as  most  of  those 
already  referred  to,  it  would  be  but  a  tedious  repetition  to  attempt 
to  describe  more.  They  are  all  wonderful.  The  ordinary  observer 
can  only  look  at  them,  a-nd  wonder  that  such  things  exist ;  but  to 
the  scientific  man,  one  capable  of  divining  the  mysterious  cause 
of  their  action,  the  study  of  them  must  be  an  exquisite  delight. 

It  is  worth  the  traveller's  while  to  climb  the  mountains  on  the 
north  side  of  the  Pluton,  for  the  fine  view  which  their  summits 
afford  on  every  hand ;  toward  the  north,  a  part  of  Clear  Lake  can 
be  seen,  some  fifteen  miles  distant.  But,  perhaps,  the  scene  which 


260 


SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


CLEAK  LAKE,    FROM   THE   RIDGE   NEAR   THE   GEYSERS. 

would  delight  a  lover  of  nature  most,  can  be  obtained  by  rising 
early  and  walking  back  half  a  mile  upon  the  trail  which  descends 
to  the  hotel.  It  is  to  see  the  gorgeous  tints  of  the  eastern  sky,  as 
the  sun  comes  climbing  up  behind  the  distant  mountains,  and 
afterward  to  watch  his  long  slanting  rays  in  the  illuminated  mist, 
as  they  come  streaming  down  the  canon  of  the  Pluton,  flashing  on 
the  water  in  dots  and  splashes  of  dazzling  light,  and  tipping  the 
rich  shadows  of  the  closely- woven  foliage  with  a  fringe  of  gold. 

Some  people  have  said  that  California  scenery  is  monotonous, 
that  her  mountains  are  all  alike,  and  that  her  skies  repeat  each 
other  from  day  to  day.  Believe  them  not,  ye  distant  readers,  to 
whom,  as  yet,  our  glorious  California  is  an  unknown  land.  The 
monotony  is  in  their  own  narrow,  unappreciative  souls,  not  in  our 
grand  mountains,  towering,  ridge  upon  ridge,  until  the  long  line 
of  the  furthest  peaks  becomes  blended  with  the  dreamy  haze  that 
loves  to  linger  round  their  summits.  And  the  gorgeous  glow  of 
our  sunrises,  or  the  still  more  gorgeous  green  and  orange,  and 
gold  and  crimson,  of  our  sunsets,  reflect  their  heavenly  hues  upon 
dull  eyes,  indeed  when  they  can  see  no  beauty  in  them. 


IN    AND    AKOUND    SAN    FKAN CISCO.  261 

The  route  most  generally  travelled,  from  San  Francisco  to  the 
Geysers,  is  as  follows :  At  8  o'clock  A.  M.,  or  at  3:30  p.  M.,  take 
steamer  at  the  Vallejo  Street  wharf  for  Vallejo — distance  twenty- 
five  miles — time  about  two  hours — fare,  $1.  Thence  by  the 
Napa  Valley  Railroad  to  Calistoga — distance  forty-four  miles — 
time  two  hours — fare,  $2.50.  Thence  by  Foss's  stage,  via  the  new 
road,  to  the  Geysers — distance  twenty-eight  miles — time  about 
five  and  a  half  hours — fare,  $6. 

The  better  time  to  leave  San  Francisco  would  be  at  3:30  p.  M., 
arriving  at  Calistoga  at  about  7;30  p.  M.  Leave  there  about  7:30 
A.  M.  the  following  morning,  after  breakfast,  and  arrive  at  the 
Geysers  about  1  o'clock  P.M.  As  the  sun  "eats  up"  the  steam 
from  the  springs  during  the  heat  of  the  day,  the  best  time  to  see 
them  is  after  a  good  rest,  and  when  the  shadows  of  evening  have 
filled  Geyser  Canon  ;  or,  early  in  the  morning,  before  sunrise. 
When  leaving  the  Geysers  on  the  return  trip,  it  is  a  good  plan  to 
have  a  cup  of  coffee  before  starting,  and,  taking  the  old  road,  make 
Foss' — and  a  good  breakfast — at  9  A.  M.,  Calistoga  about  12  M., 
and  San  Francisco  about  4  p.  M. 

The  beautiful  and  singular  scenery ;  the  different  methods  of 
travel — by  steamboat,  by  railroad,  and  by  stage-coach ;  and  the 
world-renowned  driving  of  Foss'; — are  all  recorded  in  the  note- 
book of  memory  kept  by  every  visitor  to  "  The  Geysers." 


SCENES    IN-    CALIFORNIA. 


THE  RIFFLE-BOX   WATERFALL,    DEER  CREEK. 


CHAPTER    XI. 

THE  RIFFLE-BOX  WATERFALL. 

"  Who  lives  to  nature  rarely  can  be  poor." 

YOUNG. 

THIS  beautifully  picturesque  and  romantic  waterfall  is  situated  on 
Deer  Creek,  about  nine  miles  below  the  large  and  populous  mining 
town  of  Nevada.  To  those  who  are  unacquainted  with  the  tech- 


THE   KIFFLE-BOX    WATERFALL. 


263 


nicalities  of  mining,  the  meaning  of  the  above  name,  when  applied 
to  a  waterfall,  may  be  somewhat  of  a  mystery.  To  make  it  plain 
to  every  reader,  perhaps  it  will  not  be  uninteresting  to  describe 
one  of  the  implements  of  mining  called  the  Long  Tom.  This 
ancient,  and  now  almost  obsolete  mining  tool,  if  such  it  may  be 
called,  consists  of  a  long  fl  atish  box  or  sluice,  from  ten  to  fifty  feet 
in  length,  and  from  one  foot  to  three  feet  in  width,  and  open  at 
the  top  ;  into  this  the  dirt  is  thrown,  and  through  it  a  stream  of 
water  is  turned.  The  back  end  being  elevated,  gives  sufficient  fall 
for  the  water  to  pass  down  with  considerable  force.  At  the  lower 
end  there  is  a  plate  of  perforated  iron,  called,  a  Tom  Iron,  through 
which  the  water,  dirt,  and  gold  pass  into  a  "riffle-box"  underneath; 
where  the  gold  is  saved.  This  box  has  narrow  strips  of  wood  across 
the  bottom ;  and  when  one  end  is  elevated  the  water  makes  a  fall, 
or  riffle.  Hence,  from  the  great  resemblance  in  -the  shape  of  the 
above  falls  to  a  riffle-box,  comes  the  name  of  Riffle-Box  Falls.  Dur- 
ing the  winter  season,  when  the  water  rushes  over  with  an  impetu- 
ous sweep,  it  is  remarkably  wild  and  tumultuous. 

In  1852,  a  company  was  formed  to  test  the  richness  of  this  great 
riffle-box  of  nature ;  and  to  accomplish  which  a  tunnel  was  cut 
through  a  hill  of  solid  rock,  about  three  hundred  feet  in  length,' at 
a  cost  of  twenty  thousand  dollars.  Through  this  tunnel  the  waters 
of  the  creek  were  turned,  and  by  which  the  falls  were  drained. 

The  water  had  worn  deep  holes  in  the  bed  of  the  creek,  and  to 
pump  these  dry,  seven  thousand  dollars  more  were  expended  in 
machinery,  &c.  When  this  was  accomplished  and  the  "  box"  was 
made  dry,  the  whole  of  the  gold  that  was  taken  out  was  only  about 
two  hundred  dollars. 

,  This  is  one  of  the  many  enterprises  into  which  the  Californian 
enters,  and  where  his  money  and  time — frequently  all  that  he  pos- 
sesses— are  embarked,  in  a  single  venture,  and  he  thrown  penni- 
less upon  his  own  energies  to  begin  life  again — as  he  terms  it. 
This  will  give  friends  in  the  East  at  least,  one  idea  why  the  miner 
frequently  remains  from  dear  friends  and  home  so  long,  when  his 
hopes  of  returning  were  built  upon  the  success  of  his  undertaking 
— and  which  too  often  proves  a  complete  failure. 


264 


SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


CHAPTER    XII 
LAKE  TAHOE. 


LAKE  TAHOE. 

Sketched  from  nature,  by  George  //.  Goddard. 


UNTIL  the  discovery  of  the  rich  silver  mines  of  Washoe,  this  re- 
markably beautiful  lake  was  known  only  to  the  few.  It  is  true 
that  the  footsteps  of  the  old  mountaineer,  the  early  explorer,  and 
the  pioneer  emigrant,  trod  its  silent  shores  at  a  very  early  day ; 
and  in  later  years  the  hardy  prospector,  in  search  of  Gold  Lake, 
and  other  fabulous  localities  of  supposed  wealth,  looked  upon  the 
burnished  waters,  and  cloud-draped  crags  that  encompass  this 
beautiful  sheet,  with  charmed  eyes.  But  it  remained  for  the  liv- 


LAKE    TAHOE. 


265 


ing  tide  of  population  that  poured  into  that  region  over  the  sier- 
ras, in  search  of  the  precious  ores,  during  the  excitement  of  1860, 
and  subsequently,  to  make  this  scene  become  extensively  familiar ; 
inasmuch  as  a  magnificent  view  of  Lake  Tahoe  can  be  obtained, 
on  reaching  the  summits  of  the  surrounding  mountains,  from  near- 
ly every  northern  trail  into  Washoe,  especially  that  from  Placer- 
ville,  without  even  turning  aside  from  the  road. 

It  may  not  be  generally  known,  that,  at  the  heads  of  nearly 
every  stream  originating  among  the  snows  of  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
there  are  extensive  lakes,  or  fertile  vallevs,  from  the  Siskiyou 
mountains  to  Fort  Yuma.  To  these  retreats  the  stock  raisers  of 
the  midland  counties  take  their  droves,  when  the  feed  in  the  Sac- 
ramento and  San  Joaquin  valleys  becomes  scant,  or  dried  up  dur- 
ing the  dry  months  of  summer. 

Since  the  excitement  before  alluded  to,  numerous  companies 
of  prospectors  have  gone  out  in  the  hope  of  finding  rich  veins  of 
silver-bearing  quartz  ;  and,  in  addition  to  discovering  the  valuable 
mines  of  Mono,  Esmeralda,  and  others  equally  rich,  they  have  re- 
turned with  ever-to-be-remembered  mind-pictures  of  those  scenes 
of  beauty  and  of  grandeur,  that  lie  slumbering  in  lofty  solitude 
among  the  rocks  and  peaks  and  stunted  pines  of  this  great  moun- 
tain chain. 

During  the  year  1855,  Mr.  George  H.  G-oddard,  civil  engineer, 
in  charge  of  the  state  wagon-road  survey,  visited  this  spot,  and 
favored  us  with  the  following  sketch : 

"  This  beautiful  lake  is  situated  in  a  valley  of  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
at  the  eastern  base  of  the  central  ridge,  a  few  miles  north  of  the 
main  road  of  travel  to  Carson  Valley.  It  lies  at  an  elevation  of 
some  5,800  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  about  1,500  feet 
above  Carson  Valley,  from  which  it  is  divided  by  a  mountain  ridge 
three  to  four  miles  across. 

"The  southern  shores  of  this  lake  were  explored  during  the  state 
wagon-road  survey  of  1855,  and  its  extreme  southern  latitude  de- 
termined at  38°  57'.  The  120th  meridian  of  west  longitude  divides 
the  lake  pretty  equally,  giving  its  western  shore  to  California  and 
its  eastern  to  Utah.  Its  northern 'extremity  is  only  known  by  re- 


266  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

port,  which  is  still  so  contradictory  that  the  length  of  the  lake  can- 
iiot  be  set  down  with  any  thing  like  accuracy.  It  can  hardly  ex- 
ceed, however,  twenty  miles  in  length  by  about  six  in  breadth ; 
notwithstanding,  it  has  been  called  forty,  and  even  sixty  miles 
long. 

"The  surrounding  mountains  rise  from  one  to  three,  and,  per- 
haps, in  some  cases,  four  thousand  feet  above  the  surface  of  the 
lake.  They  are  principally  composed  of  friable  white  granite, 
so  water-worn  that,  although  they  are  rough,  and  often  covered 
with  rocks  and  boulders,  yet  they  show  no  cliffs  or  precipices. 
Their  bases,  of  granite  sand,  rise  in  majestic  curves  from  the  plain 
of  the  valley  to  their  steeper  flanks.  Many  of  the  smaller  hills 
are  but  high  heaps  of  boulders,  the  stony  skeletons  decaying  in 
situ,  half  buried  in  their  granite  debris.  The  shores  of  the  lake, 
at  least  of  its  southern  coast,  are  entirely  formed  of  granite  sand ; 
not  a  pebble  is  there  to  mar  its  perfect  smoothness. 

"  A  dense  pine-forest  extends  from  the  water's  edge  to  the  sum- 
mits of  the  surrounding  mountains,  except  in  some  points  where  a 
peak  of  more  than  ordinary  elevation  rears  its  bald  head  above 
the  waving  forest.  An  extensive  swampy  flat  lies  on  its  southern 
shore,  through  which  the  Upper  Truckee  slowly  meanders,  gather- 
ing up,  in  its  tortuous  course,  all  the  streams  which  flow  from  the 
south  or  south-east.  The  deep  blue  of  the  waters  indicates  a  con- 
siderable depth  to  the  lake.  The  water  is  perfectly  fresh.  The 
lake  well  stocked  with  salmon  and  trout.  It  is  resorted  to  at  cer- 
tain seasons  by  the  neighboring  Indians,  for  fishing. 

"Although  lying  so  near  the  main  road  of  travel,  little  has  been 
known  of  this  lake  until  quite  a  recent  period.  There  is  no  doubt 
this  is  the  lake  of  which  the  Indians  informed  Colonel  Fremont, 
when  encamped  at  Pyramid  Lake,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Salmon- 
Trout  or  Truckee  river,  and  which  he  thus  relates,  under  date  of 
January  15,  1844:  'They  made  on  the  ground  a  drawing  of  the 
river,  which  they  represented  as  issuing  from  another  lake  in  the 
mountains,  three  or  four  days  distant,  in  a  direction  a  little  west 
of  south ;  beyond  which  they  drew  a  mountain,  and  farther  still 
two  rivers,  on  one  of  which  they  told  us  that  people  like  ourselves 


LAKE    TAHOE.  26  T 

travelled.'  How  clear  does  this  description  read  to  us,  now  that 
we  know  the  localities ! 

a  Afterward,  when  crossing  the  mountains  near  Carson  Pass, 
Colonel  Fremont  caught  sight  of  this  lake,  but,  deceived  by  the 
great  altitude  of  the  mountains  to  its  east,  and  the  apparent  gap 
in  the  western  ridge  at  Johnson  Pass,  he  laid  it  down  as  being  on 
the  California  side  of  the  mountains,  at  the  head  of  the  south  fork 
of  the  American  River.  In  the  map  attached  to  Colonel  Fremont's 
report,  it  is  there  called  Mountain  Lake,  but  in  the  general  map  of 
the  explorations  by  Charles  Preuss  it  is  named  Lake  Bompland. 
In  Wilkes's  map,  and  others  published  about  the  period  of  the  gold 
discovery,  it  bears  the  former  name.  "When  Colonel  Johnson  laid 
out  his  road  across  the  mountains,  the  lake  was  passed  unnoticed, 
except  under  the  general  term  of  Lake  Valley.  General  Wynn's 
Indian  expedition,  or  the  emigrant  relief  train,  first  named  it  Lake 
Bigler,  after  our  late  governor.  Under  this  name  it  was  first  de- 
picted in  its  transmountain  position  in  Eddy's  state  map,  and  thus 
the  name  has  become  established.* 

"  There  is  no  lake  in  California  which,  for  beauty  and  variety  of 
scenery,  is  to  be  compared  to  Tahoe  Lake ;  but  it  is  not  its  beauty 
of  situation  alone  that  will  attract  us  there.  A  geological  interest 
is  fastening  upon  it,  for  there  we  see  what  so  many  other  of  the 
great  valleys  of  the  sierra  once  were.  The  little  stream  of  the 
tipper  Truckee,  though  but  of  yesterday,  has  yet  carried  down  its 
sandy  deposits  through  ages,  sufficient  to  form  the  five  miles  of  val- 
ley flats,  from  the  foot  of  the  Johnson  Pass  to  the  present  margin 
of  the  lake,  and  still  the  work  progresses.  The  shallows  at  the 
mouth  of  the  river  are  stretching  across  toward  the  first  point  on 
the  eastern  slope  of  the  lake,  and  at  the  same  time  the  water  level 
of  the  lake  is  evidently  subsiding." 

*  In  1862  the  name  of  this  lake  was  very  properly  changed  to  its  present  Indian 
one,  of  "Lake  Tah'oe" — pronounced,  however,  by  the  Indians,  Tah'oo — which  means, 
"big  water,"  and  as  such,  it  has  since  been  known  to  every  tourist. 


268 


SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


ALABASTER  GAVE,  EL  DORADO  CO.,  CALIFORNIA. 


THE  PULPIT,  IN  THE  ALABASTER  CAVE. 


ALABASTER    CAVE.  '269 


CHAPTEK    XIII. 

WHENEVER  nature  steps  out  of  her  usual  course  to  make  any 
thing  very  beautiful  or  very  wonderful,  it  is  not  unreasonable  to 
expect  that  men  and  women,  generally,  will  be  gratefully  willing 
to  go  out  of  their- way  to  see  it.  It  is  true  that  many  men  love 
money  more  than  they  love  nature,  others  love  nature  more  than 
money,  and  yet  often  feel  too  poor,  almost,  to  gratify  that  love ; 
others  have  become  so  much  habituated  to  the  same  stool  in  the 
counting-house,  the  same  old  chair  in  the  office,  and  the  same  fa- 
miliar standing-place  in  the  store,  and  the  same  spot  in  the  work- 
shop, mine,  or  field,  that  nothing  short  of  an  earthquake,  or  rev- 
olution, could  induce  them  to  turn  aside  from  the  well-worn  high- 
ways of  business  habit,  to  see  any  thing  beyond  themselves  and 
their  business  routine.  In  their  eyes  it  is  the  Alpha  and  Omega  of 
life,  the  beginning  and  end  of  all  things,  yea,  life  itself.  Unfortu- 
nately, habit  unfits  them  for  any  thing  beyond  the  man-machine. 
The  blue  sky,  the  bright  sunshine,  the  flower-carpeted  earth,  the 
foliage-clothed  trees,  the  moss-grown  caverns,  the  mighty  hills,  or 
the  forest-formed  harps,  touched  by  the  fingers  of  the  wind,  and 
playing  their  grand  old  anthems  of  praise,  have  an  inviting  and 
suggestive  voice,  that  "  man  was  made  for  enjoyment  as  well  as  duty 
—for  happiness  as  well  as  business;"  and  the  probability  is  appar- 
ent, that  the  godlike  faculties  bestowed  upon  him,  enabling  him  to 
hold  communion  with  the  beautiful  and  the  ennobling,  the  sublime 
or  wonderful,  would  not  have  been,  if  man  were  not  expected  to 
be  something  loftier  than  a  mere  humdrum  business  machine. 

Nature  sometimes  turns  over  some  new  and  wonderful  pages  in 
her  glorious  old  volume,  and  discovers  to  men  such  morsels  as  the 
groves  of  mammoth  trees,  the  Yo-Semite  Yalley,  the  Geysers,  the 


270  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

natural  bridges,  and  caves;  and,  more  recently,  the  Alabaster  cave, 
of  El  Dorado  county.  On  such  occasions  there  are  many  persons 
who  will  find  time  to  open  their  sight-seeing  eyes,  and  take  a 
glimpse,  if  only  to  say  that  they  have  seen  them,  lest  they  should 
be  deemed  behind  the  age,  or  out  of  the  fashion ;  but  there  are 
others  again,  and  their  name  is  legion,  who  adore,  yea  almost  wor- 
ship, the  beautiful,  the  grand,  the  astonishing ;  from  the  handful 
of  soil,  that  gives  out  so  many  varieties  of  rare  and  fragrant  flow- 
ers and  lucious  fruits,  to  the  vast  cathedral-formed  arches  and  in- 
tricate draperies  of  stone,  produced  by  chemical  agencies  and  mys- 
tical combinations,  in  one  or  more  of  nature's  great  laboratories 
beneath  the  surface  of  the  earth.  With  the  latter  class  it  is  always 
a  pleasure  to  be  in  company  ;  as  a  pleasure  shared  is  always 
doubled ;  besides,  kindred  spirits  have  a  happy  faculty  of  repro- 
duction, denied  to  others. 

THE  DISCOVERT  OF  THE  EL  DORADO  COUNTY  CAVE. 

A  ledge  of  limestone  rock,  resembling  marble  in  appearance, 
cropped  out  by  the  side  of  the  El  Dorado  Valley  turnpike  road, 
which,  after  testing,  was  found  to  be  capable  of  producing  excellent 
lime.  Early  in  the  present  year,  Mr.  William  Gwynn  employed  a 
number  of  men  to  quarry  this  rock  and  build  a  kiln.  To  these 
works  he  gave  the  name  of  "  Alabaster  Lime  Quarry  and  Kiln." 
On  the  18th  of  April,  1860,  two  workmen,  George  S.  Halterman 
and  John  Harris,  were  quarrying  limestone  from  this  ledge,  when, 
upon  the  removal  of  a  piece  of  rock,  a  dark  aperture  was  visible, 
that  was  sufficiently  enlarged  to  enable  them  to  enter.  A  flood  of 
light  pouring  in  through  the  opening  made,  they  proceeded  inward 
some  fifty  feet.  Before  venturing  further,  they  threw  a  stone  for- 
ward, which  falling  into  water,  determined  them  to  procure  lights 
before  advancing  further. 

At  this  juncture  Mr.  Gwynn,  the  owner,  came  up  ;  and  upon 
being  informed  of  the  discovery,  sent  for  candied,  to  enable  them 
to  further  prosecute  their  explorations.  The  result  of  these,  after 
several  hours  spent,  cannot  be  better  described  than  in  Mr. 
Gwynn's  own  language,  in  a  letter  dated  April  19th,  1860,  ad- 


ALABASTER    CAVE.  271 

dressed  to  Mr.  Holmes,  a  gentleman  friend  of  his,  residing  in  Sac- 
ramento City ;  and  first  published  in  the  Sacramento  Bee : 

"  Wonders  will  never  cease.  On  yesterday,  we,  in-  quarrying 
rock,  made  an  opening  to  the  most  beautiful  cave  you  ever  beheld. 
On  our  first  entrance,  we  descended  about  fifteen  feet,  gradually, 
to  the  centre  of  the  room,  which  is  one  hundred  by  thirty  feet. 
At  the  north  end  there  is  a  most  magnificent  pulpit,  in  the  Epis- 
copal church  style,  that  man  ever  has  seen.  It  seems  that  it  is, 
and  should  be  called,  the  '  Holy  of  Holies.'  It  is  completed  with 
the  most  beautiful  drapery  of  alabaster  sterites,  of  all  colors,  va- 
rying from  white  to  pink-red,  overhanging  the  beholder.  Imme- 
diately under  the  pulpit  there  is  a  beautiful  lake  of  water,  extend- 
ing to  an  unknown  distance.  We  thought  this  all,  but,  to  our 
great  admiration,  on  arriving  at  the  centre  of  the  first  room,  we 
saw  an  entrance  to  an  inner  chamber,  still  more  splendid,  two 
hundred  by  one  hundred  feet,  with  the  most  beautiful  alabaster 
overhanging,  in  every  possible  shape  of  drapery.  Here  stands 
magnitude,. giving  the  instant  impression  of  a  power  above  man; 
grandeur  that  denes  decay ;  antiquity  that  tells  of  ages  unnum- 
bered ;  beauty  that  the  touch  of  time  makes  more  beautiful ;  use 
exhaustless  for  the  service  of  men ;  strength  imperishable  as  the 
globe,  the  monument  of  eternity — the  truest  earthly  emblem  of 
that  everlasting  and  unchangeable,  irresistible  Majesty,  by  whom, 
and  for  whom,  all  things  were  made." 

As  soon  as  this  interesting  announcement  was  noised  abroad, 
hundreds  of  people  flocked  to  see  the  newly  discovered  wonder, 
from  all  the  surrounding  mining  settlements,  so  that  within  the 
first  six  days,  it  was  visited  by  upwards  of  four  hundred  persons ; 
many  of  whom,  we  regret  to  say,  possessed  a  larger  organ  of  ac- 
quisitiveness than  of  veneration,  and  laid  Yandal  hands  on  some  of 
the  most  beautiful  portions  within  reach,  near  the  entrance.  This 
determined  the  proprietor  to  close  it,  until  arrangements  could  be 
made  for  its  protection  and  systematic  illumination ;  the  better  to 
see,  and  not  to  touch  the  specimens. 

At  this  time,  Mr.  Gwynn  leased  the  cave  to  Messrs.  Smith  & 
Halterman,  who  immediately  began  to  prepare  it  for  the  reception 


272  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

of  the  public,  by  erecting  baricades,  platforms,  &c. ;  and  placing  a 
large  number  of  lamps  at  favorable  points,  for  the  better  illumina- 
tion and  inspection  of  the  different  chambers. 

The  discovery  being  made  in  the  spring,  considerable  water  was 
standing  in  some  of  the  deepest  of  the  cavities ;  but  signs  were 
already  visible  of  its  recession,  at  the  rate  of  nearly  six  inches  per 
day  ;  and  in  a  few  weeks  it  entirely  disappeared,  leaving  the  cave 
perfectly  dry.  This  afforded  opportunities  for  further  explorations ; 
when  it  was  found  that  a  more  convenient  entrance  could  be  made, 
with  but  little  labor,  from  an  unimportant  room  within  a  few  feet 
of  the  road.  This  was  accordingly  done,  and  this,  in  addition 
to  its  convenience,  allows  of  the  free  circulation  of  pure  air.  Hav- 
ing thus  given  an  historical  sketch  of  the  discovery,  with  other 
matters  connected  with  its  preservation  and  management,  we  shall 
now  endeavor  to  take  the  reader  with  us,  at  least  in  imagination, 
while  describing  it  and 


SOME    SCENES    BY   THE   WAY. 


As  a  majority  of  visitors  will,  most  probably,  be  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, it  may  not  be  amiss,  with  the  reader's  permission,  to  present 
a  brief  outline  of  some  of  the  most  interesting  sights  to  be  wit- 
nessed, from  the  deck  of  the  steamboat,  on  our  way  up  the  Sacra- 
mento. A  large  portion  of  the  route,  from  that  great  mercantile 
metropolis  of  the  Pacific  to  the  mouth  of  the  San  Joaquhl,  has 
been  already  illustrated  and  described  in  the  first  chapter  of  this 
work,  to  which  we  would  again  refer  his  attention.* 

On  page  twenty-nine,  we  have  described  the  course  of  the  Stock- 
ton boat  as  to  the  right;  while  that  bound  for  Sacramento  City 
sails  straight  forward,  toward  the  west  end  of  a  large,  low  tule 
flat,  lying  between  the  San  Joaquin  and  Sacramento,  named  Sher- 
man's Island,  and  here  we  enter  the  Sacramento  river.  The  Mon- 
tezuma  hills,  seen  on  our  right,  and  a  few  stunted  trees  on  the  left, 
are  the  only  objects  in  the  landscape  to  relieve  the  eye,  by  contrast 
with  the  low  tule  swamp,  until  we  approach  the  new  and  flourish- 
ing little  settlement  of  Eio  Yista.  "  This  town,"  writes  Dr.  C.  A. 
Kirkpatrick,  the  obliging  postmaster,  "  is  situated  about  forty-five 


ALABASTER    CAVE. 


273 


SCENE   AT    THE    LOWER  JUNCTION   OF    THE    MAIN    SACRAMENTO   RIVER,    AND    STEAMBOAT 

SLOUGH. 

miles  below  the  city  of  Sacramento,  and  below  the  outlets  of  all 
the  large  sloughs,  or  at  least  two  of  the  largest,  Steamboat  and 
Cache  Creek  sloughs — uniting  with  the  main,  or  old  Sacramento 
river,  just  above  this  place ;  making  the  stream  here  about  one- 
third  of  a  mile  wide.  The  reader  will  see  that,  being  upon  the 
main  river,  so  near  its  outlet  into  Suisun  Bay,  not  over  twenty 

18 


>r;  xi-:s   IN   CAI.IKUKMA. 


NIGHT   SCENE   OX   THE   MAIN  BRANCH   OF   THE   SACRAMENTO   RIVER. 


miles,  and  so  far  from  the  mining  region,  there  is  a  clearer  and 
larger  .body  of  water  than  can  be  found  anywhere  else  on  the 
river.  It  is  to  this  place  that  the  salmon-fish  now  resort.  Before 
taking  the  final  plunge,  they  seem  here  to  have  turned  at  bay, 
and  are  eagerly  caught  in  the  following  manner : 

THE    SALMON    FISHERY    ON   THE    SACRAMENTO. 

"  Nets  are  constructed  of  stout  shoe-thread,  first  made  into  skeins, 
then  twisted  into  a  cord  about  the  size  of  common  twine,  after  the 


ALABASTER    CAVE.  27^ 

fWiion  of  making  ropes.  It  i»  then,  with  a  wooden  needle,  man- 
ufactured into  a  web  of  open  network,  from  780  to  1200  feet,  or 
130  t<  ..'_'.  and  15  feet  wide.  On  both  -ide»  of  the 

net  are  email  ropes,  to  which  it  in  fastened.     On  the  rope  deaigna- 
r  the  upper  Hide,  are  placed,  at  intervals  of  five  or  six  fec^ 
cork  or  light,  wood,  for  the  purpose  of  buoys;  while  on 
.ier  line  bit-  of  lead  are  fastened,  to  .rink  the  net  in  the  water. 
1  of  the  upper  line  a  small  buoy,  painted  any 

dark  color  which  can  be  efl  1,  and  at  the  other  end 

make  fa-.t.  a  line  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  long,  for  the  fisherman  to 

.  while  1.  -ate,  and  the  net.  i- 


PAYING  OUT  THE 


"Whitehall  }>oats  are  those  most  generally  used  in  this  branch 

of  state  i  rid  11 -try;  they  are  from  nineteen  to  twenty-two  feet  in 

length  of  keel,  and  from  four  to  five  feet  breadth  of  beam;  this 

nd  .style  being  considered  the  best.    Now,  the  next  thing 

wanted,  are  two  fearless  men ;  one  to  manage  the  boat,  and  the  other 


276 


SCENES    IN    CALIFOKNIA. 


to  cast  the  net.  The  net  is  then, stowed  in  the  after  part  of  the 
boat,  and  every  thing  made  ready  for  a  haul. 

"  Being  at  what  is  called  the  head  of  the*  drift,  one  of  the  men 
takes  his  place  in  the  stern  of  the  boat,  and,  while  the  rower  pulls 
across  the  stream,  the  net  is  thrown  over  the  stern.  Thus  is  form- 
ed a  barrier,  or  network,  almost  the  entire  width  of  the  stream, 
and  to  the  depth  of  fifteen  or  twenty  feet.  The  drift  is  the  distance 
on  the  river  which  is  passed  after  casting  the  net,  which  floats  with 
the  tide  until  it  is  drawn  into  the  boat.  This  passage,  and  the  draw- 
ing in  of  the  net,  completes  the  process  of  catching  the  salmon. 

"  In  coming  in  contact  with  the  net,  the  head  of  the  fish  passes 
far  enough  through  the  meshes,  or  openings,  to  allow  the  strong 
threads  of  the  net  to  fall  back  of  and  under  the  gill,  and  thus 
they  are  unable  to  escape,  and  are  effectually  caught  in  the  net  and 
drawn  into  the  boat. 


HAULING  IN  THE  SEINE. 


"During  the  year  1852,  there  were  probably  as  many  fish  found  in 
that  part  of  the  Sacramento  river  before  alluded  to,  as  at  any  time 


ALABASTER    CAVE. 


277 


previous,  and  more  than  at  any  time  since — two  men  with  one 
net  and  boat  having  caught  as  many  as  three  hundred  fish  in  the 
course  of  one  night ;  the  night  being  the  best  time  to  take  them, 
on  account  of  their  being  unable  to  see  and  avoid  the  net. 


GROUP  OP  SALMON  ON  THE  BANKS  OF  THE  SACRAMENTO  RIVER. 


"  The  fish  which  are  caught  in  the  spring  are  much  larger  and 
nicer  than  those  caught  during  the  summer  months ;  the  former 
being  really  a  bright  salmon-color,  and  the  texture  of  the  flesh 
firm  and  solid  ;  while  the  latter,  in  appearance,  might  properly  be 
called  salmon-color  faded,  and  the  flesh  soft  and  unpalatable.  This 
difference  is  no  doubt  owing  to  the  temperature  and  composition 
of  the  water  in  which  the  fish  maybe  sojourning;  the  cold,  salt 
sea  water  hardening  and  coloring  the  flesh,  while  the*  warm,  fresh 
river  water  tends  to  soften  and  bleach. 


278  SCENKS    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

"They  seem  to  be  gregarious  in  their  nature,  travelling  in  herds, 
or,  as  the  fishermen  call  it,  "  schools"  They  do  not  like  a  very 
cold  climate,  as  is  indicated  by  their  not  ascending  the  rivers  on 
the  northern  coast,  except  in  very  limited  numbers,  until  the  month 
of  July.  In  those  streams  where  the  current  is  very  rapid,  their 
rate  of  speed  is  supposed  to  be  five  or  six  miles  an  hour ;  but 
where  the  current  is  eddying  and  slow,  not  more  than  two  miles 
an  hour.  It  has  also  been  ascertained  that  they  will  stop  for  two 
or  three  days  in  deep,  still  water ;  no  doubt  to  rest  and  feed,  as 
they  choose  places  where  food  can  be  easily  procured. 

"  There  seems  to  be  quite  a  difference  in  the  size,  flavor,  and 
habits  of  the  salmon  found  in  the  Sacramento,  Columbia  and 
Frazer  rivers ;  those  of  the  Sacramento  being  larger,  more  juicy, 
more  oily,  and  brighter  colored.  They  are,  however,  more  abun- 
dant in  the  north,  and  about  half  the  average  weight — that  of  the 
the  former  being  about  fifteen  pounds ;  although  early  in  the  spring 
some  are  caught  in  the  north  quite  as  large  as  any  caught  in  the 
Sacramento,  and  weigh  from  fifty  to  sixty  pounds. 

"  In  the  Gulf  of  Georgia  and  Bellingham  Bay,  and  on  the  Co- 
lumbia, Frazer  and  Lumna  rivers,  the  salmon  are  taken  by  thou- 
sands ;  while  we  of  the  Sacramento  only  get  them  by  hundreds. 
One  boat,  last  season,  on  the  Frazer  river,  in  one  month,  caught 
13,860.  There  is  also  one  peculiarity  with  the  fish  of  the  north 
— every  second  or  third  year  there  are  but  few  salmon  in  those 
waters,  their  places  being  taken  by  a  fish  called  the  hone,  which 
come  in  great  numbers,  equal  if  not  greater  than  the  salmon.  The 
two  fish  never  come  in  any  considerable  numbers  together. 

"  From  facts  obtained  from  the  freight  clerks  of  the  C.  S.  N. 
Co.'s  boats,  we  learn,  that  from  the  principal  shipping  port  of  the 
Sacramento  river,  Rio  Vista,  there  is  an  average  of  150  fish,  or 
2,250  pounds,  sent  each  day  to  market,  for  five  months  of  the  year, 
making  a  total  of  22,500  fish,  or  337,500  pounds  ;  the  greater  part 
of  these  are  shipped,  and  used  fresh  in  San  Francisco.  But  this 
number  forms  but  a  small  proportion  of  what  are  caught,  the  prin- 
cipal part  being  retained  and  salted,  or  smoked,  or  otherwise  pre- 
pared for  shipment  to  various  parts  of  the  world — many  finding 


ALABASTER    CAVE.  279 

their  way  to  Australia,  and  the  islands  of  the  .Pacific,  as  well  as 
to  New  York,  and  other  domestic  ports  on  the  Atlantic  seaboard." 

THE   HOG^S    BACK? 

About  six  miles  above  Rio  Yista  is  the  far-famed  "  Hog's  Back." 
This  is  formed  by  the  settling  of  the  sediment  which  comes  down 
from  the  rivers  above,  and  is  caused  by  a  widening  of  the  stream 
and  a  decrease  in  the  fall  of  the  river.  It  extends  for  about  three 
hundred  yards  in  length ;  and  at  the  lowest  stage  of  water  is  about 
five  feet  from  the  surface,  and  at  the  highest  point  eleven  feet  six 
inches.  Being  affected  by  the  tides,  and  as  they  are  exactly  at 
the  same  point  every  two  weeks,  during  the  fall  season  of  the  year, 
for  two  or  three  days  at  each  low  tide,  a  detention  of  heavily 
freighted  vessels,  of  from  one  to  four  hours,  will  then  take  place. 

Persons  when  descending  the  river,  as  the  steamboat  generally 
leaves  Sacramento  City  at  two  o'clock  p.  M.,  have  an  opportunity 
of  knowing  when  they  arrive  at  the  "  Hog's  Back"  by  seeing  the 
mast  of  a  vessel  with  the  lower  cross-trees  upon  it,  and  sometimes 
a  portion  of  her  bulwarks.  This  vessel  wras  named  the  Charleston, 
and  was  freighted  principally  with  quartz  machinery,  a  portion  of 
which  being  for  the  Gold  Hill  Quartz  Co.,  at  Grass  Yalley,  she 
had  discharged,  but,  the  owners  of  another  and  larger  portion  of 
it  not  being  found,  she  was  returning  with  it  to  San  Francisco  in 
October,  1857,  but  having  struck  upon  this  sand-bank,  at  a  very 
low  stage  of  the  water,  careened  over,  and  was  swamped.  Several 
attempts  have  since  been  made  to  take  out  the  machinery,  but  as 
yet  it  has  defied  them  all,  and  being  filled  with  sand,  it  will  be  a 
very  difficult  task  for  any  one  ever  to  set  her  afloat  again,  and  the 
reward  be  but  poor,  inasmuch  as  it  cannot  be  in  any  other  than 
a  spoiled  condition,  from  rust  and  other  causes. 

STEAMBOAT    SLOUGH. 

A  short  distance  above  the  Hog's  Back  we  arrived  at  the  junc- 
tion of  Sutter  Slough  with  Steamboat  Slough,  and  there  enter  the 
narrowest  part  of  the  stream.  As  this  slough  is  deep  and  naviga- 
ble, and  moreover  is  about  nine  miles  nearer  for  sailing  through 


280 


SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


than  by  the  main,  or  "  old  river,"  nearly  all  vessels  upward  bound 
take  this  route ;  while  those  on  the  downward  trip  (excepting  steam- 
boats) generally  take  the  main  river,  inasmuch  as  the  wind  is  more 
favorable  for  their  return  to  San  Francisco. 


SCENE  AT  THE  UPPER  MAIN  JUNCTION  OF  SACRAMENTO  AND  STEAMBOAT  SLOUGHS. 


As  we  pass  through  Steamboat  Slough,  we  are  impressed  with 
the  narrowness  of  the  channel  for  such  large  vessels,  the  luxuriant 
foliage  of  the  trees  that  adorn  its  banks,  and  the  snug  little  cabins, 


ALABASTER    CAVE.  281 

nearly  shut  out  from  sight  by  wild  vines  and  trees,  that  are  seen  at 
intervals  on  its  margin.  Indeed  the  scenery,  as  you  steam  up  or 
down  the  river,  is  picturesque  in  no  slight  degree.  Here  and  there, 
as  you  turn  with  the  sudden  windings  of  the  stream,  you  come 
upon  the  little  boats  of  fishermen,  and  sloops,  with  their  sails  furl- 
ed like  the  folded  wings  of  a  sea-bird,  waiting  for  the  wind.  The 
improvements  of  the  husbandman  are  everywhere  seen  along  the 
shore — cottages  half  hidden  among  the  drooping  branches  of  the 
sycamores,  outhouses,  haystacks,  orchards,  and  gardens — with  their 
product  of  squashes  and  cabbages  piled  in  huge  heaps  ;  and  here 
and  there  a  school-house  or  church  gives  a  cheerful  domestic 
character  to  the  scene.  The  landscape  is  diversified  by  the  gnarl- 
ed oaks,  with  vines  clinging  about  them  for  support,  and  their 
branches  covered  with  dark  masses  of  mistletoe. 

Sailing  along,  probably  we  may  see  a  small  stern-wheel  steam- 
scow,  puffing  away  like  some  odd-shaped  and  outlandish  leviathan, 
named  the  "  Gipsy."  She  plies  between  the  various  ranches  and 
gardens  on  the  river  and  Sacramento  City,  taking  vegetables,  grain, 
flour,  &c.,  up  to  the  city,  and  returning  with  groceries,  dry  goods, 
papers,  &c.  By  this  means  she  has  created  quite  a  snug  little 
business  for  herself,  and  become  an  indispensable  visitor  to  the 
residents.  In  fact  they  could  not  conveniently  get  along  without 
her. 

Far  away  to  the  eastward,  the  snow-capped  Sierras,  with  a  black 
belt  of -pines  at  their  base,  and  nearer,  the  mist-draped  and  purple 
Coast  Range,  rise  on  the  view.  Along  the  plains  are  here  and 
there  seen  clumps  of  trees — a  sure  indication  of  water;  and  occa- 
sionally, the  charred  trunk  of  some  burnt  and  blasted  tree  lifts  its 
bare  branches  toward  heaven  in  solitary  grandeur.  During  the 
season  when  the  immense  tracts  of  tules  which  cover  the  low  lands 
are  on  fire,  the  conflagration  lends  a  wild  and  peculiar  beauty  to 
the  view. 

The  levee  at  Sacramento  City — with  its  scenes  of  bustling  activ- 
ity ;  its  numerous  steamboats,  dilapidated  and  otherwise ;  its  loco- 
motive, puffing  and  snorting;  and  all  the  living  tide  of  industry, 
riding,  driving  and  walking  in  all  directions — is  at  length  in  view, 


ALABASTER    CAVE  283 

but  we  have  gossiped  so  much  by  the  way,  that  we  have  not  the 
space  left  to  devote  to  a  city  like  this,  holding  the  second  rank  on 
the  Pacific  coast,  and  possessing  a  population  of  14,000  souls,  and 
about  as  many  objects  of  interest  as  does  the  City  of  the  Bay ;  so 
that  we  content  ourselves  by  making  the  best  of  our  way  to  the 
station,  and  prepare  for 

A   RIDE   ON   THE    SACRAMESTO  VALLEY   RAILROAD. 

This  great  private  enterprise  and  public  convenience  was  com- 
menced in  March,  1855,  and  is  the  first  passenger  railroad  built  in 
California.  On  the  llth  of  August  of  the  same  year,  the  first  car 
was  placed  upon  it ;  and  on  the  3d  of  February,  1856,  it  was  com- 
pleted to  Folsom,  a  distance  of  22J-  miles. 

Leaving  the  depot,  at  the  corner  of  K  street  and  Levee,  we  con- 
tinue along  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Sacramento  river  to  E,  street, 
where  a  turning  is  made  to  the  eastward ;  then,  passing  the  beauti- 
ful gardens  and  cottages  on  the  suburbs  of  the  city,  we  emerge  upon 
a  broad  oak-studded  plain,  where  the  handiwork  of  the  agricultu- 
rist and  richness  of  the  soil  are  everywhere  visible,  in  the  luxuriant 
crops  seen  on  every  side.  Herds  of  cattle  and  bands  of  horses  start 
at  our  approach,  as  if  to  make  us  believe  they  are  frightened  at 
the  shape  and  speed  of  the  puffing  fiery  monster  that  is  advanc- 
ing. Here  we  see  a  cross-road;  yonder  a  "station  ;"  now  we  rum- 
ble over  a  viaduct ;  then,  rattle  through  an  excavation ;  amid  farm- 
houses and  mining  settlements,  gardens  and  orchards,  until,  after 
a  ride  of  an  hour  and  a  quarter,  we  arrive  at 

FOLSOM. 

This  is  a  perfect  stage-coach  Babel ;  for,  awaiting  the  train,  we 
find  conveyances  to  almost  every  section  of  the  central  mines.  As 
our  destination,  now,  is  for  the  "  Alabaster  Cave,"  let  us  be  upon 
the  look-out  for  a  q.uiet-looking,  open-faced  (and  hearted),  middle- 
aged  man,  who  is  patiently  sitting  on  the  box  of  his  stage,  his 
good-natured  countenance  invitingly  saying:  "If  there  are  any 
ladies  and  gentlemen  who  wish  a  pleasant  ride  to-day,  to  '  Alabas- 
ter Cave,'  let  them  come  this  way,  and  then  it  shall  not  be  my 


284 


SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


fault  if  it  is  not  one  of  the  most  agreeable  they  ever  took."  That 
gentleman  is  Captain  Nye.  We  ask,  somewhat  hastily,  if  his  is  the 
conveyance  for  the  Cave,  when  a  bluff  and  kindly  response  is, 
"  Yes,  sir ;  but  don't  hurry  yourself,  I  shall  not  start  for  a  few 
minutes,  and  the  day  is  before  us." 

It  may  not  be  amiss  here  to  remark,  that  the  Alabaster  Cave  is 
located  on  Kidd's  ravine,  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  from  its 
debouchment  in  the  north  fork  of  the  American  River;  twelve 
and  a  half  miles  from  Folsom,  by  the  "  Whiskey  Bar"  road ;  and 
ten  miles  by  the  El  Dorado  Valley  turnpike ;  but,  let  us  give  a 
table  of  distances  from  all  the  surrounding  country. 


Rattlesnake  Bar, 1|  miles. 

Pilot  Hill, 4 

Gold  Hill,  Placer  Co 6 

Mormon  Island, 6£  " 

Auburn, 8  " 

Negro  Hill, G 

Greenwood  Valley, : 9  " 

Lincoln, 9  " 

Folsom, ' 10  and  12$  " 

Uniontown  and  Coloma, ......  16  " 

FROM   FOLSOM  TO 


Georgetown, 18  miles. 

Diamond  Sp's.  &  El  Dorado  City,  20  " 

Iowa  Hill,  Placer  Co. 20  " 

Forest  Hill, 20  " 

Placerville, 23  " 

Grass  Valley, 30  " 

Sacramento,   32|     '• 

Nevada,.. 34  ' 

Marysville, 36  " 


"  ALABASTEK    CAVE." 


As  our  coachman  is  ready,  and  has  given  the  well-known  sig- 
nal "  All  aboard ;"  moreover,  as  he  has  way-passengers  on  the  El 
Dorado  turnpike  route,  and  none  on  the  former,  we,  of  course, 
give  it  the  preference. 

Erom  Folsom,  then,  our  course  lies  over  gently-rolling  hills, 
with  here  and  there  an  occasional  bush  or  tree,  to  Mormon  Island. 
Here,  peach-orchards  and  well  cultivated  gardens  present  a  grate- 
ful relief  to  the  dry  and  somewhat  dusty  road. 

Crossing  the  south  fork  of  the  American  by  a.  long,  high,  and 
well-built  suspension-bridge,  we  ascend,  on  an  easy  grade,  to  a  min- 
ing camp,  named  Negro  Hill.  Threading  our  way  among  mining 
claims,  miners,  and  ditches,  we  pass  through  the  town  into  the 
open  country ;  where  buckeye  bushes — now  perhaps  scantily  clad 
in  dry  brown  leaves,  that  bespeak  the  approach  of  autumn — the 


ALABASTER   CAVE.  285 

nut  pine,  and  the  dark,  rich  foliage  of  white  oaks,  dot  the  land- 
scape. 

Presently  we  reach  the  foot  of  a  long  hill  covered  with  a  dense 
growth  of  chapparel,  composed  mostly  of  chemisal  bushes.  As  we 
ascend,  we  feel  the  advantage  of  having  an  intelligent  and  agree- 
able coachman,  who  not  only  knows  but  kindly  explains  the  lo- 
calities visible  from  the  road. 

From  the  summit  of  Chapparel  Hill,  we  have  a  glorious  pros- 
pect of  the  country  for  many  miles.  There,  is  "  Monte  Diablo," 
sleeping  in  the  purple  distance ;  yonder,  "  Butter's  Buttes,"  which 
bespeak  at  once  their  prominence  and  altitude;  while  the  rich 
valley,  and  the  bright  silvery  sheen  of  the  Sacramento  and  its 
tributaries,  are  spread  out  in  beauty  before  us.  The  descent  to  the 
cave  on  the  other  side  of  the  hill  is  very  picturesque  and  beautiful, 
from  the  shadowy  grandeur  of  the  groups  of  mountains  seen  in 
the  distance. 

Arriving  about  noon,  a  good  appetite  will  most  likely  be  sug- 
gestive of  a  substantial  lunch,  or  dinner.  This  being  quietly  over, 
let  us  indulge  in  a  good  rest  before  presuming  to  look  upon  the 
marvels  we  have  come  to  witness ;  and  not  be  like  too  many,  who 
do  injustice  to  themselves  and  the  sights  to  be  seen,  by  attempt- 
ing them  hurriedly,  or  when  the  body  is  fatigued,  and  consequent- 
ly the  mind  unfitted  for  the  pleasing  task. 

ALABASTER    LIME-KILN. 

On  leaving  the  hotel,  it  is  but  a  short  and  pleasant  walk  to  the 
cave.  At  our  right  hand,  a  few  steps  before  reaching  it,  there 
is  a  lime-kiln — a  perpetual  lime-kiln — which,  being  interpreted, 
means  one  in  which  the  article  in  question  can  be  continually 
made,  without  the  necessity  of  cooling  off,  as  under  the  old  method. 
Here  a  large  portion  of  the  lime  consumed  in  San  Francisco,  is 
manufactured.  It  is  hauled  down  to  Folsom  or  Sacramento  in 
wagons,  as  return  freight,  and  from  thence  transported  below.  To 
see  this  kiln  at  night,  in  full  blast,  as  we  did,  is  a  sight  which  alone 
would  almost  repay  the  trouble  of  a  visit.  The  redhot  do*ors  at 
the  base,  with  the  light  flashing  on  the  faces  of  the  men  as  they 


286 


SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


THE   ALABASTER   LIME-KILN   BY   MOONLIGHT. 


stir  the  fire,  or,  "  wood-up,"  with  the  flames  escaping  out  from  the 
top ;  and  when  to  this  is  added  the  deep  ravine,  darkened  by  tall, 
overhanging,  and  large-topped  trees  and  shrubs  ;  while  high  aloft 
sails  the  moon,  throwing  her  silvery  scintillations  on  every  object 
around,  from  the  foliage-draped  hill,  to  the  bright  little  rivulet 
that  murmurs  by — description  is  impossible. 

At  these  works,  there  are  forty  barrels  of  lime  manufactured 
every  twenty-four  hours.  To  produce  these,  three  and  a  half  cords 
of  wood  are  consumed,  costing,  for  cutting  only,  $1  75  per  cord. 
To  haul  this  to  the  works,  requires  a  man  and  team  constantly. 


ALABASTER    CAVE.  287 

Two  men  are  employed  to  excavate  the  rock,  and  two  more  to  at- 
tend to  the  burning — relieving  each  other  at  the  furnace  every 
twelve  hours;  from  morn  to  midnight. 

The  rock,  as  will  be  seen  in  the  engraving,  is  supplied  from  the 
top,  and  is  drawn  from  the  bottom  every  six  hours,  both  day  and 
night. 

THE  ENTRANCE. 

When  entering  the  cave  from  the  road — as  indicated  in  the  en- 
graving, by  the  group  of  figures  opposite  the  two  trees  behind  the 
lime-kiln — we  descend  some  three  or  four  steps  to  a  board  floor. 
Here  is  a  door  that  is  always  carefully  locked,  when  no  visitors 
are  within.  Passing  on,  wre  reach  a  chamber  about  twenty-five 
feet  in  length  by  seventeen  feet  in  width,  and  from  five  feet  to 
twelve  feet  six  inches  in  height.  This  is  somewhat  curious,  al- 
though very  plain  and  uneven  at  both  roof  and  sides.  Here  also 
is  a  desk,  on  which  is  a  book,  inscribed,  "  Coral  Cave  Register." 
This  book  was  presented  by  some  gentlemen  of  San  Francisco  who 
believed  that  "  Coral  Cave"  would  be  the  most  appropriate  name. 
The  impression  produced  on  our  mind  at  the  first  wTalk  through  it, 
was  that  "Alabaster  Cave"  would  be  equally  as  goo$  a  name; 
but,  upon  examining  it  more  thoroughly  afterward  we  thought 
that — a  greater  proportion  of  the  ornaments  at  the  root  of  the 
stalactites  being  like  beautifully  frozen  mosses  or  very  fine  coral, 
and  the  long  icicle-looking  pendants  being  more  like  alabaster— 
the  former  name  was  to  be  preferred.  But,  as  the  name  of  "  Ala- 
baster" had  been  given  to  the  works  by  Mr.  Gwynn,  on  account 
of  the  purity  and  whiteness  of  the  limestone  found,  even  before 
the  cave  was  discovered,  we  cheerfully  acquiesce  in  the  nomencla- 
ture given.  The  register  was  opened  April  24th,  1860,  and  on 
our  visit,  September  30th  ensuing,  2,721  names  had  been  entered. 
Some  three  or  four  hundred  persons  visited  it  before  a  register  was 
thought  of,  and  many  more  declined  entering  their  names ;  so  that 
the  number  of  persons  who  entered  this  cave  the  year  of  its  dis- 
covery, must  have  exceeded  three  thousand. 

Advancing  along  another  passage,  or  room,  several  notices  at- 
tract our  eye,  such  as,  "  Please  not  touch  the  specimens,"  "  ~No 


288  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

smoking  allowed,"  "  Hands  and  feet  off,"  (with  feet  scratched  out) 
— amputation  of  those  members  not  intended !  The  low  shelving 
roof,  at  the  left  and  near  the  end  of  the  passage,  is  covered  with 
coral-like  excrescences,  resembling  bunches  of  coarse  rock-moss. 
This  brings  us  to  the  entrance  of 

THE   DUNGEON    OF   ENCHANTMENT. 

Before  us  is  a  broad,  oddly-shaped,  and  low-roofed  chamber, 
about  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  length  by  seventy  feet  in 
breadth,  and  ranging  from  four  to  twenty  feet  in  height. 

Bright  coral -like  stalactites  hang  down  in  irregular  rows,  and 
in  almost  every  variety  of  shape  and  shade,  from  milk-white  to 
cream-color ;  standing  in  inviting  relief  to  the  dark  arches  above, 
and  the  frowning  buttresses  on  either  hand ;  while  low-browed 
ridges,  some  almost  black,  others  of  a  reddish-brown,  stretch  from 
either  side,  between  which  the  space  is  ornamented  with  a  peculiar 
coloring  that  resembles  a  grotesque  kind  of  graining. 

Descending  toward  the  left,  we  approach  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful stalactitic  groups  in  this  apartment.  Some  of  these  are  fine 
pendants,  XLO  larger  than  pipe-stems,  tubular,  and  from  two  to  five 
feet  in  length.  Three  or  four  there  were,  over  eight  feet  long; 
but  'the  early  admitted  Yandals  destroyed  or  carried  them  off. 
Others  resemble  the  ears  of  white  elephants  (if  such  an  animal 
could  be  known  to  natural  history),  while  others,  again,  present 
the  appearance  of  long  and  slender  cones,  inverted. 

By  examining  this  and  other  groups  more  closely,  we  ascertain 
that  at  their  base  are  numerous  coral-like  excrescences  of  great 
beauty ;  here,  like  petrified  moss,  brilliant,  and  almost  transpar- 
ent ;  there,  a  pretty  fungus,  tipped  with  diamonds ;  yonder,  like 
minature  pine-trees,  which,  to  accommodate  themselves  to  circum- 
stances, have  grown  with  their  tops  downward.  In  other  places, 
are  apparent  fleeces  of  the  finest  Merino  wool,  or  floss  silk. 

Leaving  these,  by  turning  to  the  right  we  can  ascend  a  ladder, 
and  see  other  combinations  of  such  mysterious  beauty  as  highly 
to  gratify  and  repay  us.  Here  is  the  loftiest  part  of  this  chamber. 

Leaving  this,  you  arrive  at  a  large  stalagmite  that  resembles  a 


ALABASTER   CAVE.  289 

tying-post  for  horses,  and  which  has  been  dignified,  or  mystified, 
by  such  names  as  "  Lot's  wife"  (if  so,  she  was  a  very  dwarf  of  a 
woman,  as  its  altitude  is  but  four  feet  three  inches,  and  its  cir- 
cumference, at  the  base,  three  feet  one  inch),  "  Hercules'  club," 
"  Brobdignag's  fore-finger,"  &c. 

Passing  on,  over  a  small  rise  of  an  apparently  snow-congealed 
or  petrified  floor,  we  look  down  into  an  immense  cavernous  depth, 
whose  roof  is  covered  with  icicles  and  coral,  and  whose  sides  are 
draped  with  jet.  In  one  of  these  awe-giving  solitudes  is  suspend- 
ed a  heart,  that,  from  its  size,  might  be  imagined  to  belong  to  one 
of  a  race  of  human  giants. 

On  one  side  of  this,  is  an  elevated  and  nearly  level  natural  floor, 
upon  which  a  table  and  seats  have  been  temporarily  erected,  for 
the  convenience  of  choristers,  or  for  public  worship.  It  would 
have  gratified  us  beyond  measure  to  have  heard  these  "  vaulted 
hills"  resound  the  symphonies  of  some  grand  anthem  from  Mozart, 
or  Haydn,  or  Mendelssohn.  Many  of  the  pendant  harps  would 
have  echoed  them  in  delicious  harmonies  from  chamber  to  cham- 
ber, and  carried  them  around,  from  roof  to  wall,  throughout  the 
whole  of  these  rock-formed  vistas. 

We  must  not  linger  here  too  long,  but  enter  other  little  cham- 
bers, in  whose  roofs  are  formations  that  resemble  streams  of  water 
that  have  been  arrested  in  their  flow,  and  turned  to  ice.  In  anoth- 
er, a  perfectly  formed  beet,  from  one  point  of  view ;  and  from 
another,  the  front  of  a  small  elephant's  head.  A  beautiful  bell- 
shaped  hollow,  near  here,  is  called  "Julia's  bower!" 

Advancing  along  a  narrow,  low-roofed  passage,  we  emerge  into 
the  most  beautiful  chamber  of  the  whole  suite,  entitled 

THE    CRYSTAL    CHAPEL. 

It  is  impossible  to  find  suitable  language  or  comparisons  with 
which  to  describe  this  magnificent  spot.  From  the  beginning,  we 
have  felt  that  we  were  almost  presumptuous  in  attempting  to  por- 
tray these  wonderful  scenes  ;  but,  in  the  hope  of  inducing  others 
to  see,  with  their  natural  eyes,  the  sights  that  we  have  seen,  and 
enjoy  the  pleasure  that  we  have  enjoyed,  we  entered  upon  the  task, 

19 


290  SCENES   IN    CALIFOKNIA. 

even  though  inadequately,  of  giving  an  outline — nothing  more. 
Here,  however,  we  confess  ourselves  entirely  at  a  loss.  Miss 
Maude  Neeham,  a  young  lady  visitor  from  Yreka,  has  succeeded 
in  giving  an  admirable  idea  of  this  sublime  sight,  in  some  excel- 
lent drawings,  made  upon  the  spot ;  two  of  which  we  have  en- 
graved, and  herewith  present  to  the  reader. 

The  sublime  grandeur  of  this  imposing  sight  fills  the  soul  with 
astonishment,  that  swells  up  from  within  as  though  its  purpose 
was  to  make  the  beholder  speechless — the  language  of  silence  be- 
ing the  most  fitting  and  impressive,  when  puny  man  treads  the 
great  halls  of  nature,  the  more  surely  to  lead  him,  humbly,  from 
these,  to  the  untold  glory  of  the  Infinite  One,  who  devised  the 
laws,  and  superintended  the  processes,  that  brought  such  wonders 
into  being. 

After  the  mind  seems  prepared  to  examine  this  gorgeous  spec- 
tacle somewhat  in  detail,  we  look  upon  the  ceiling,  if  we  may 
so  speak,  which  is  entirely  covered  with  myriads  of  the  most 
beautiful  of  stone  icicles,  long,  large,  and  brilliant;  between  these, 
are  squares,  or  panels — the  mullions  or  bars  of  which  seem  to  be 
formed  of  diamonds ;  while  the  panels  themselves  resemble  the 
frosting  upon  windows  in  the  very  depth  of  winter ;  and  even  these 
are  of  many  colors — that  most  prevailing  being  of  a  light  pinkish- 
cream.  Moss,  coral,  floss,  wool,  trees,  and  many  other  forms,  adorn 
the  interstices  between  the  larger  of  the  stalactites.  At  the  far- 
ther end  is  one  vast  mass  of  rock,  resembling  congealed  water, 
apparently  formed  into  many  folds  and  little  hillocks ;  in  many 
instances  connected  by  pillars  with  the  roof  above.  Deep  down, 
and  underneath  this,  is  the  entrance  by  which  we  reached  this 
chamber. 

At  our  right  stands  a  large  stalagmite,  dome-shaped  at  the  top,' 
and  covered  with  beautifully  undulating  and  wavy  folds.  Every 
imaginary  gracefulness  possible  to  the  most  curiously  arranged 
drapery,  is  here  visible,  "  carved  in  alabaster"  by  the  Great  Archi- 
tect of  the  universe.  This  is  named  "  The  Pulpit." 

In  order  to  examine  this  object  with  more  minuteness,  a  tempo- 
rary platform  has  been  erected,  which,  although  detractive  of  the 


ALABASTER    CAVE. 


291 


THE  CRYSTAL  CHAPEL,  IN  ALABASTER  CAVE. 

general  effect,  in  our  opinion,  affords  a  nearer  and  better  view  of 
all  these  remarkable  objects  in  detail. 

This  spectacle,  as  well  as  the  others,  being  brilliantly  illumina- 
ted, the  scene  is  very  imposing,  and  reminds  one  of  those  highly- 


292  SCENES    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

wrought  pictures  of  the  imagination,  painted  in  such  charming 
language,  and  with  such  good  effect,  in  such  works  as  the  "  Ara- 
bian Nights." 

Other  apartments,  known  as  the  "  Picture  Gallery,"  &c.,  might 
detain  us  longer ;  but,  as  they  bear  a  striking  resemblance,  in  many 
respects,  to  other  scenes  already  described,  we  must  take  our  leave, 
in  the  hope  that  we  have  said  enough  to  enlist  an  increased  atten- 
tion in  favor  of  this  new  California  wonder. 

The  ride  being  agreeable,  the  fare  cheap,  the  coachman  oblig- 
ing, the  guides  attentive,  and  the  spectacle  one  of  the  most  sin- 
gular and  imposing  in  the  state,  we  say  to  every  one,  "  Go  and 
see  it" 


Those  who  prefer  going  by  railroad  from  San  Francisco  to 
Sacramento  instead  of  by  water,  can  make  choice  of  two  routes : 
First,  via  the  California  Pacific  Railroad  as  foltows : — Taking 
steamboat  at  Yallejo  Street  wharf  at  8  o'clock  A.  M.  and  at  3 :  30 
p.  M.,  arriving  at  Yallejo  in  about  two  hours.  Thence  by  C.  P. 
R.R.  to  Sacramento,  arriving  at  12 : 15  o'clock  p.  M.  and  at  7  :  45. 
p.  M.  Distance  85  miles,  25  by  steamboat  and  60  by  railway. 
Fare  $3.  Second,  via  the  Western  Pacific  Railroad,  through 
Stockton  to  Sacramento,  as  follows  : — Start  from  Alameda  Ferry 
at  8  o'clock  A.  M.  and  at  4  p.  M.,  reach  Oakland  in  thirty 
minutes.  Thence  by  "W.  P.  R.R.  to  Sacramento,  arriving  at  2 
o'clock  P.  M.  and  10  p.  M.  Distance  138  miles,  8  by  steamboat 
and  130  by  railway.  Fare  $3.  Both  routes  are  picturesque  and 
full  of  interesting  changes  of  scenery. 


ERRATA. 

On  page  92,  10th  line  from  top  of  page,  leave  out,  "  Here  we  change  horses." 
"      115,  for  "  2550,"  read  "  2634." 
"      130,  15th  line  from  top  of  page,  "CEnothera"  should  come  after  "primroses." 


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